A body in tank pump.

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Mopar Tim

Mopar Tim

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Hello doing restomod on My 1966 Dart GT. Is original radio delete GT. 4BBl 273 rebuilt and still in there. Having real issue with with fuel pressure. any one using a intank pump? Stock tank, no fuel cell. If so what pump works out.
 
I have never seen a IN Tank fuel pump for these early Mopars... But you can get an In the Fuel line electric pump (just like the fuel filter is on the fuel line) ... I once used one of these and had it right at the fuel tank exit... and it fed the engine's mechanical pump... (Push / Pull system) Worked great when the car sat for extended time... I had it on an off/on switch for when I needed it...


Oh wow... just now saw the post before this one... That "in tank fuel pump" idea looks cool... (but $$$)
 
I have a mallory pro comp pump now, Some reason it loses pressure the longer it runs. Goes down to less then 3psi. That system that Beatnik shows is for Fuel injection. PSI too high. Ny holley red pump did the same thing. It is not a Vacume in tank issue, does same thing with cap off. I am using a bypas return system. New tank, New in tank fuel SOCK. Pressure gauge verified correct with hand held gauge. Pump mounted below tank. I have seen several posts about this issue but no answer. Also all new steel fuel lines all the way to carb and back to tank. Also pump is running on own circuit with relay. 14.5 volt at pump while running. pump drawing 2.8 amp, even when low PSI.
 
Mopar Tim said:
That system that Beatnik shows is for Fuel injection. PSI too high.
Click to expand...

It's for carburated applications too...search around, the yellow CC Valiant uses one, good install write up on it a few issues ago. It's what I hope to install at some point down the road. It just makes a little more sense to add if your going EFI anayways since you are gonna run a return line and elec pump anyway. I ran an inline Blue pump for awhile and it's just hard on em for prolonged street duty.
 
Beatnik, I saw review of this system, person could not get it fit in 1965 tank, the same tank as my 1966. Any otther ideas?
 
Hmmm.... back in the day when I ran my 340 car... we removed the "Tank Sock"... I got that tip from a Super Stock builder/racer I worked for in the early 70's. If I recall correctly he said the tank sock could collapse enough to slow the flow...
Also I ran 3/8 lines instead of the 5/16 factory lines...

Good Luck... Hope you find the problem...
 
thinking of new 3/8 lines. was alot ezr to put in new fuel lines when the car was apart! Pressure is bad at idle. doubt tank sock failing. I will remove the SOCK
 
If you replace the fuel lines to 3/8... Don't forget to do the in tank pick up tube too!!!
Mechanical pumps pulse... (Not constant)... lets the "sock" relax between pumps... Electric pump is "constant"... Just saying...

I looked up the electric fuel pump I ran in my 340 car... Was a Carter 4594 used in conjunction with a good H.P. Mechanical pump... Best run on that 340 Valiant was an 11.07... back in 1972 @ Suffolk Raceway (with NO Sock)
 

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I have an EFI external in-line fuel pump in my 65 273 and plan the same for my 64 slant. Currently, have a carb, but planning for FI. You can run a carb off just the return pressure. I measure ~10 psi return w/ my Walbro pump, thru the factory 5/16" tube (ran 3/8" supply), but that is mainly due to the 1/4" return tube at the after-market sender. To not overflow the carb bowl, use a small in-line pressure-reducing regulator to the carb (dial wheel, sold under many names - Mr Gasket, etc). The worst problem is "sucking air" when the fuel runs low in the tank and you brake hard. I notice in my 65 Newport with its wide, thin tank. No experience w/ the Dart, but should be much better. One company sells an EFI retrofit kit that puts a small reservoir in the engine bay which the pumps draws from, to avoid the sloshing problem. It need be only similar volume to your carb bowl, since the original pump also sucks air when sloshing, but the carb bowl gets you thru.

Any EFI pump will supply more flow than a carb needs. The flowrate greatly increases at lower pressure. I have one (Bosch Euro-type) in my 65 383 running at 18 psig to a Holley Pro-jection TBI and it never goes lean (have O2 sensor). BTW, I mounted both EFI pumps in the engine bay, which Holley etc says not to ("must be near tank"), which works fine. I am an engineer so don't need to listen to them.
 
How does that aeromotive pump work, does it bolt to the existing fuel pick-up or what?
 
Here is your best bet, We use these tanks all the time in my shop. We are also a dealer for them. So could save you a little cash. They are a direct bolt in to your old tank an have several pump options for what ever H.P your running. The pump is a direct bolt in to the new tank. A great economical way to do exactly what your doing for less than half the cost of a custom tank. No cutting like the Aeromotive unit. drop the pump in bolt the new sending unit in bolt the tank up in the original location. plumb and your ready for the road. no hassle

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ct_id=397/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd397.htm
 

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Ive got several mopars and have built lots of others. This is first problem i have had with fuel pressure. PITA
 
Yep a direct bolt in. no problem. click the link for your pump options
 
I got a Tanks Inc. kit for my '69 Dart. But it was not really bolt-in. I had to buy a new tank and have Tanks Inc. weld the recess into it for the top of the pump module to fit down into. Otherwise it sticks up about 1" above the top of the tank and the tank cannot be installed in the car. (Well, you could cut a hole in the trunk floor I guess, but who wants that?). Anyways, it works great. They have several pumps to choose from, I'm running a PA-Series full return system with the TBI pump which puts out 12psi. Using an Aeromotive 13351 bypass regulator set to about 6.5 psi at the carburetor.
The recess:
prd_ssh_97_13.jpg
 
69_340_GTS said:
I got a Tanks Inc. kit for my '69 Dart. But it was not really bolt-in. I had to buy a new tank and have Tanks Inc. weld the recess into it for the top of the pump module to fit down into. Otherwise it sticks up about 1" above the top of the tank and the tank cannot be installed in the car. (Well, you could cut a hole in the trunk floor I guess, but who wants that?). Anyways, it works great. They have several pumps to choose from, I'm running a PA-Series full return system with the TBI pump which puts out 12psi. Using an Aeromotive 13351 bypass regulator set to about 6.5 psi at the carburetor.
The recess:
prd_ssh_97_13.jpg
[/QUOTE interesting we use them all the time. Have never had an issue like that. If the sending unit sits on to of the tank like you posted they are all ready recessed.
Click to expand...
 
prrc said:
69_340_GTS said:
I got a Tanks Inc. kit for my '69 Dart. But it was not really bolt-in. I had to buy a new tank and have Tanks Inc. weld the recess into it for the top of the pump module to fit down into. Otherwise it sticks up about 1" above the top of the tank and the tank cannot be installed in the car. (Well, you could cut a hole in the trunk floor I guess, but who wants that?). Anyways, it works great. They have several pumps to choose from, I'm running a PA-Series full return system with the TBI pump which puts out 12psi. Using an Aeromotive 13351 bypass regulator set to about 6.5 psi at the carburetor.
The recess:
prd_ssh_97_13.jpg
[/QUOTE

interesting we use them all the time. Have never had an issue like that. If the sending unit sits on to of the tank like you posted they are all ready recessed.
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On a '69 Dart the sending unit is on the front vertical wall of the tank. The Tanks Inc pump would never fit there, plus it won't work sideways!
Click to expand...
 
Mount an inline pump on the frame rail. Ditch the sock and run a coarse inline filter before the pump inlet. 5/16-3/8 no matter on a 273. You can buy a new 5/16 or 3/8 sender with a return line already installed for under $50. Ford ran an external pump on its trucks. They work fine. even at 45psi you can run a 3 port regulator at the carb to bypass most of that pressure back to the tank.
 
I looked up the part numbers on line of the stuff I used back in the 70's on my Valiant... and this info is in the White Direct Connection Race manuals book...

The in line (back near the gas tank) Carter Electric Fuel Pump has a Carter number P4594 and Mopar's # for this was P4007038... An on line search popped it up at Amazon.com... Still available...

The Mechanical HP Carter pump has a Carter # M6270... Mopar's part number was P4007040...
for the LA 273, 340, 360... and I found this online too...

This push / pull system is simple and it works...

Good Luck Guys... Oh yeah... get rid of the "SOCK"...
 
If still set on an in-tank pump (not needed, see post #20), I recall one guy used a stock sender and installed an EFI pump on the end w/ a short length of hose. It sat on the bottom of the tank. The Gerrys 2008 post linked above above is similar, but more complicated. I don't recall how they fed the wires thru for the pump. You would still have the sloshing problem unless you can put a bucket around the sock.

I wonder how you can have a fuel supply problem just running a carburetor. Must be something is wrong.
 
It boggles my mind that ANYONE would want to put an electric motor IN a gas tank....its more quiet, but thats about it. I know its been done about 30 million times since EFI was mainstream, but external seems way more friendly. Ford Trucks, Mercedes, Volvo, etc mounted them outside. Mercedes hung them in a scrotum under their tanks on rubber hangers. Makes grabbing an EFI pump at the bone yard super easy, just Neuter a Benz!
 
pishta said:
It boggles my mind that ANYONE would want to put an electric motor IN a gas tank....its more quiet, but thats about it. I know its been done about 30 million times since EFI was mainstream...
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They are very quiet.
 
pishta said:
It boggles my mind that ANYONE would want to put an electric motor IN a gas tank....its more quiet, but thats about it.
Click to expand...

Supposed to run cooler and last longer as a result, too.
 
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