A100 Fuse Block repair/replacement

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treebark

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The slot for the alt/reg fuse in my 1968 A100 is missing a clip/tap. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a replacement clip and repair this? I'd also be open to finding a replacement fuse block if that might be an easier or better option. My searches online so far have come up empty.

Missing clip.jpg
fuse block.jpg
 
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Does the one that’s present have a wire(wires) connected to it? If so then you maybe you need one with no wires for the empty space. If so I bet one from an A,B or maybe E would work
 
Does the one that’s present have a wire(wires) connected to it? If so then you maybe you need one with no wires for the empty space. If so I bet one from an A,B or maybe E would work
No wires on the clip that's in that alt/reg slot - the back side of it is totally empty. The blue wire on the left side of the second pic is the wire from the VR that is supposed to go to that empty slot. It was plugged in to the slot for the 4 way/cig lighter seemingly by my dad who had the truck before me. That doesn't seem to be working correctly though as I just replaced the alt and the VR (which had a melted wire inside). I'm thinking I need to connect this to a slot with key on power only and at the moment I don't see any open connections for that thus my search for a way to repair that open space.
 
The slot for the alt/reg fuse in my 1968 A100 is missing a clip/tap. Does anyone know if it's possible to get a replacement clip and repair this? I'd also be open to finding a replacement fuse block if that might be an easier or better option. My searches online so far have come up empty.

View attachment 1716413299 View attachment 1716413300

I checked in the Layson's catalog and didn't see any fuse boxes listed. There may be connectors in that section though. Check with classic Industries.
I feel like a broken record because I post it a half dozen times a day: Start a parts wanted thread. Someone may have what you need or something close that you can rob fuse clips from.
 
Are you able to take a pic of the back side where all the wires are? For sure a wiring diagram would be most helpful!
 
Are you able to take a pic of the back side where all the wires are? For sure a wiring diagram would be most helpful!
This is about the best I can get of the wiring side. All the colors seem to be correct for the wires that are listed on the diagram I have.

fuse wiring.jpg


There are some wires not called out on the diagram. The hand writing is just me noting what size fuses are currently in each slot. I'm not really sure why many of them are larger amperage than called for, but guessing Dad may have been having some issues with fuses blowing so I'm checking for issues around that too. There are no aftermarket electronics added to the truck.

fuse diagram.jpg


I'm considering using the Radio slot since it calls for the same size fuse and I have no plans to actually use the radio in the truck.
 
The diagram you have has gotta help. Can you take a picture of the whole diagram sobas to see where each wire goes?
 
The diagram you have has gotta help. Can you take a picture of the whole diagram sobas to see where each wire goes?
I got this from another thread here, printed it off and taped the two pages together. It was posted as a 66 A100 diagram, but I haven't found one anywhere for a 68 and since all the wires I've looked at have matched up I'm guessing there aren't any real big differences across the late 60's.

full wiring.jpg
 
I’ll see what I can make of it. I’m sure one or two electrical gurus will as well if they’re following your thread
 
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That doesn't seem to be working correctly though as I just replaced the alt and the VR (which had a melted wire inside).
Which wire melted?
There are two fusible links in the typical VR used for most Chryslers.
Post a picture. If it melted then there was a probably short.
 
That fuse block is very different than the ones used in a-bodies of those years.
Also different is wiring for the regulator feed, having a VR ground to the alternator.
I think your best bet is a replacement clip with terminal that comes through top of the box like the others.
 
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Which wire melted?
There are two fusible links in the typical VR used for most Chryslers.
Post a picture. If it melted then there was a probably short.
The wire inside the regulator to the top contact point:

Regulator interior.jpg


I'm not sure if the wire to the IGN post on the regulator being connected to the 4 way/cig lighter slot that has power at all times might have been the problem and/or the fact that the fuse in that slot was a 30 amp and the regulator is only rated for 15 amps (at least that's what the replacement one is).

I've been trying to determine what and where a short may have been so that it doesn't happen again. In another thread where I asked about proper wiring between this mechanical single field regulator and the newer style dual field regulator another member mention the risk of the FLD wire shorting against the body of the alternator if it were to come loose with power on. I know it hasn't happened in the 3 weeks I've had the truck, but it's not impossible that happened at some point to my dad and he never got around to figuring that out.
 
Photo: Yes that's one of the fusible links. But the regulator is a little different looking. Can you post a couple more photos? Not critical - knowing its to the top points is enough.
The fusible link is a clue to where the short was.
Maybe the fuse is missing because it also opened ?

I'm not sure if the wire to the IGN post on the regulator being connected to the 4 way/cig lighter slot that has power at all times might have been the problem and/or the fact that the fuse in that slot was a 30 amp and the regulator is only rated for 15 amps (at least that's what the replacement one is).
from what I can see in the diagram and from your photos, yes, the 4 way is always hot and that would be a problem.
There's a always hot feed to one set of fuses and the other set is on with the key in run or accessory.

If you can point to the thread where you got the diagram it will be easier for us to read, but I can figure it out.
 
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Top set of points lets the rotor draw power directly.
1748914169225.png


Typically that link would melt if there was a short between the regulator and the rotor.

1748914472091.png


Which then melts the link to the upper points
1748914512922.png


This is in the November 1966 Master tech Conference: Browse MTSC by Model Year – 1966 – MyMopar

But looking at the 1966 A100 diagram, it seems the wires don't connect to field terminals. So it would be real helpful to see how it was wired up. it's a little too fuzzy for me to read.
 
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I've been trying to determine what and where a short may have been so that it doesn't happen again. In another thread where I asked about proper wiring between this mechanical single field regulator and the newer style dual field regulator another member mention the risk of the FLD wire shorting against the body of the alternator if it were to come loose with power on. I know it hasn't happened in the 3 weeks I've had the truck, but it's not impossible that happened at some point to my dad and he never got around to figuring that out.
from waht I can see in the '66 diagram, that system had a ground wire connection to the regulator. Someone could have confused the Field and ground terminals. Without seeing the original alternator, this is just a guess.
If you have or find a 1968 shop manual for the A100, the wiring diagram will be in it. They're also chock full of info, so always a good reference if you can get your hands on one.
 
@Mattax here is the old alternator and old VR - from my understanding on a different thread asking about wiring this should be OK. Light Green wire is from the FLD terminal on the VR to one of the FLD terminals on the alt. Brown wire is GRD from the VR bolted to the body to the other FLD terminal (2 field alt, but with the older style 1 field mechanical VR).

Old alt.jpg
Regulator.jpg


I do have a service manual and was just comparing the wiring diagram in it to the one I shared above. The wiring diagram in the book shows that dark blue wire connecting between the VR and the starter ignition switch and not touching the fuse box... ? This is a truck my dad restored over a decade ago that I'm trying to keep going. Seems maybe he did some strange things...
 
Light Green wire is from the FLD terminal on the VR to one of the FLD terminals on the alt. Brown wire is GRD from the VR bolted to the body to the other FLD terminal (2 field alt, but with the older style 1 field mechanical VR).
That alternator in the photo is a much newer replacement. So the question is why did the fusible link melt? Either the rotor drew too much current, or the circuit feeding it (wires + connectors + brush) shorted. You can check for a short at the brush visually and/or with an ohm meter. You can also check for grounding of the field (feed) brush with an ohm meter. If the short is not in the alternator, then it was in the wiring.

I do have a service manual and was just comparing the wiring diagram in it to the one I shared above. The wiring diagram in the book shows that dark blue wire connecting between the VR and the starter ignition switch and not touching the fuse box... ?
That's the typical arrangement for cars of this era. It's not fused for various reasons. But it seems that in '66 the A100 had a different approach. However I can't make out enough detail in the '66 diagram to figure out some things, and since you have '68 then that's what you need to work with.

How the alternator works is pretty simple. Explained in here.

In the master technicians conference, Chrysler recommends that techs trace (or redraw) with colored pencils the circuit of interest in the wiring diagram.

The you can turn it into a simple diagram or schematic to see how its supposed to work. For exampe for a standard '66 A-body the main circuits to run the car:
1748956609949.png

67 and 68 are the same except power to the horn relay was connected at the alternator.

With the key in run and engine running electrons flows from the alternator to the welded junction (usually hidden inthe harness) and then to whatever is calling for power. After starting, the ammeter should show charging. After that it should show zero, as the battery is neither charging or discharging.

Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics The on-line Imperial Club has the best index of the Tech Conference.
www.mymopar.com for scanned service manuals, parts books, and Master Tech conference in pdf and youtube formats.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page Has Service Bulletins (updates to the parts and service books) and Sales Information
 
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