AC guinea pig...

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HemiDenny said:
you are right, I do.....a sheet of paper, a pencil, and an imagination. Same as you....
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that's half the fun, making parts. i still use the 16" brake my grandfather used since way before i was around. there's no reason this wouldn't work. insulation will make it work a lot better
 
HemiDenny said:
you are right, I do.....a sheet of paper, a pencil, and an imagination. Same as you.

I do not have CAD abilities or a metal brake, a water jet / laser cutter, but I know where to find them and when I do, I make friends with the guys in the shop so if I want something not SOP...it is no big deal.

Good luck with your project.
Denny
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When I was younger I did work at some fabrication shops that did have laser cutters punch brakes and things like that so I could recognize some of your stuff looked in a way prefabricated...
I still haven't pulled the trigger... Our summer is extra mild this year and there's no cruise-ins or car shows or gatherings to go to at any rate...
 
Okay yet a third call today and an answer right away. Very willing to answer more questions and give detailed answers...
First question was how many amps is this whole system going to pull and the answer was about 14 to 16 total...
I'm still looking at the kit I posted in post one and it mentions nothing about a wiring harness like other kits they sell do. He said all kits now come with a harness as they were having problems when they sold them separately that people still expected them. So now they just put them in every kit regardless if it says with harness or not... Next was my question about extra line as I plan to put longer lines trying to run it into the back seat area... He said notify him ahead of time and he will give me a PayPal slip or something like that and it will be $3 per extra foot as he mentioned before...
Also a question I asked which I didn't no until I asked was where does the dryer go? He said anywhere at all between the condenser and the evaporator.. which I see it completely up front next to the condenser and between the grill and radiator area....
I'm going to try and create a new pay pal account tomorrow... I'm about to pull the trigger on this..
 
I’ll recommend this: Buy a cheap garden hose, the vinyl type that’s a bit stiff. Cut it up and mock up the runs for the line routing you’re planning. AC lines need to be robust, no couplings to leak, as you mentioned before. The other option is to have them made locally after the compressor and evaporator are mounted.
 
Demonic said:
I’ll recommend this: Buy a cheap garden hose, the vinyl type that’s a bit stiff. Cut it up and mock up the runs for the line routing you’re planning. AC lines need to be robust, no couplings to leak, as you mentioned before. The other option is to have them made locally after the compressor and evaporator are mounted.
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I've measured it out carefully and I'm adding an extra foot.. it's only $3 extra per.... ??...
 
Well I pulled the trigger! Lol shots fired LOL... debit card still smoking LOL...
Omar once again answered the phone for coldmaster and was helpful as always. He said send an email to support with my request for longer lines and I would be billed accordingly.. he said $3 per foot extra but a couple feet extra would be free. I ordered a total of 15 extra feet distributed on all three lines and was charged $30... For a total of 495 with a bunch of extra line... Free shipping no taxes to Oregon and I already have a UPS number... Ordered a set of compressor brackets for $47 that are all of utilize to make a custom bracket for the compressor...
 
Just checked it will be here next Friday signature required. Not too bad from Florida to Oregon..
 
My first thought on the condensation line from the evaporator was just the normal hole in the floor with the line coming out..
Now I'm thinking catch can with relief valve...
Being as I take it to the track and condensation continues to drain long after the system is turned off..
 
Got the generic vintage air brackets from Summit today.. Very heavy.. Too heavy..
IF I use all of the brackets I'll probably be cutting some weight out of them..
IMG_20200713_201435.jpg
 
EUREKA!!!
UPS update says package is in the Portland hub...
Should be here tomorrow...
Wife will be on watch out tomorrow as signature is required...
 
j par said:
Yes likely my entire kit would be less then that under dash unit from vintage...
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The problem with the unit in your kit is that it does not come with the registers that the Vintage Air unit has to allow you to aim the airflow......the Vintage Air unit is ridiculously over priced. I've been looking at separate pieces on Ebay. There are complete under dash units there for like 79 bucks. That's probably what I'll end up doing is piece mealing it. lol
 
j par said:
Well hells bells we've been in the mid-70s for some time now.. I'll regret it if I don't get it by August though..
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Feel lucky you are only in the 70's, it has been 95 here for the last few weeks, along with 50-60% humidity, its like a sauna here in the mountains.
It is hardly ever this hot here.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The problem with the unit in your kit is that it does not come with the registers that the Vintage Air unit has to allow you to aim the airflow......the Vintage Air unit is ridiculously over priced. I've been looking at separate pieces on Ebay. There are complete under dash units there for like 79 bucks. That's probably what I'll end up doing is piece mealing it. lol
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I'm sure you wouldn't read through this whole thread but there's a wide variety of different shapes sizes configurations and vent openings that I could have chose from. I want to put this unit in the trunk or behind the back seat and run tubes to where I want the air to flow. Remember this doesn't have to have crazy beautiful aesthetics.. I ordered an extra 15 ft of line between all three hoses to extend it to where I want it...
 
j par said:
I'm sure you wouldn't read through this whole thread but there's a wide variety of different shapes sizes configurations and vent openings that I could have chose from. I want to put this unit in the trunk or behind the back seat and run tubes to where I want the air to flow. Remember this doesn't have to have crazy beautiful aesthetics.. I ordered an extra 15 ft of line between all three hoses to extend it to where I want it...
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I know. Trust me, I've looked at them ALL. The ONLY one with round registers that matches the early A body is the one from Vintage Air. I'm just going to have to settle for the rectangular 70s lookin registers.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I know. Trust me, I've looked at them ALL. The ONLY one with round registers that matches the early A body is the one from Vintage Air. I'm just going to have to settle for the rectangular 70s lookin registers.
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Just as an extra thousand for those round holes LOL...
 
j par said:
Just as an extra thousand for those round holes LOL...
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Not that much. I can get the one with "just" the holes for like 79 bucks. The one from Vintage air is like 399 when it's on sale. That's just the under dash unit.
 
I'm hoping tomorrow evening I'll have a picture of what I got.
I think I'm going to start right off by pulling the radiator. Just get it out of the way so I can have room to work. All end up dumping all the coolant anyways taking the timing cover bolts out on the driver side. I'll need to attach the new condenser as well as the fan for that. For my own reasons I want to attach a small wire to the positive of the normal electric fan so I can run a wire into an indicator light so I can know when the fan is on...
Also I have it the part I'm going to add a little air dam air from underneath the bumper area up into the radiator area..
 
j par said:
I'm hoping tomorrow evening I'll have a picture of what I got.
I think I'm going to start right off by pulling the radiator. Just get it out of the way so I can have room to work. All end up dumping all the coolant anyways taking the timing cover bolts out on the driver side. I'll need to attach the new condenser as well as the fan for that. For my own reasons I want to attach a small wire to the positive of the normal electric fan so I can run a wire into an indicator light so I can know when the fan is on...
Also I have it the part I'm going to add a little air dam air from underneath the bumper area up into the radiator area..
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Rather than having to read the "whole book" what vehicle is this for?
 
Cool. We love photos and custom mod's. I'll just caution that you need to consider all the forces on the compressor. To fix an object in space requires at least 6 reactions - 3 force directions and 3 moments (think pitch, yaw, roll in an airplane), so insure your brackets are stiff to oppose all such forces. Even though the belt only applies a single force, vibrations can setup oscillations in other directions which can cause the metal to oscillate and crack from "metal fatigue". A guy on my M-B forums sold custom Sanden brackets for my 1985 diesel engine. I installed them and worked fine at first, but I found cracks after 2 years and eventually had to give up since they cracked to pieces, and he was using 1/2" thick steel plate. Probably didn't help that I cut a large hole like you show to reduce weight. Also, diesel engines shake more, so bad that even the factory air filter brackets usually crack. You can find many pictures of rodders mounting Sanden compressors using many swivel-end rods (like tie-rods), with the compressor mostly up in the air on "legs". This can work if they have enough to make it stiff to all 6 possible loads.
 
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