Any nice custom A/C units out there?

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DartThis74

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In an attempt to pull the heater/AC core out of my '74 Duster for the THIRD time in hope to fix some leakes behind it, is there anywhere out there in the market for a new custom a/c heater kit such as the ones vintage air or classic auto air create?? also would be nice to reduce some unwanted weight and increase space under the dash.

If not has anyone made a custom unit from various parts that works very well? Thanks for any help !!
 
I installed a hotrodair unit in a 68 cutlass. They are mostly a universal design and will need new holes in the firewall.
 
I figure more than likely i'll have to piece together stuff, all the a/c kits i see are for 72 and earlier A bodies :(
 
I put a hot rod air kit in my 72 demon, and I am completely impressed by it's cooling ability. Their kit was universal with in dash controls and included engine mounting brackets. It was the cheapest option including vintage air and classic auto air (vent doors run off engine vacuum not electrical motors). One note though - I had to remove the cross bar that connects the passenger side wiper since it rubbed the vent hoses (I used the largest evaporator they make). I safety wired that wiper blade so it doesn't move, but it's a small price to pay for having a car with a modern ac. All total I put about $1200 into it, and it is a clean looking install with a lifetime warranty on the evaporator (5 years on compressor). Let me know if you want and I can take some pictures and post them. I personally think it looks way better than a factory setup.

As far as weight goes, the evap is about as heavy as your heater box, the only real additional weight is the compressor, and that's probably around 30 lbs. If I was racing I would just remove the AC belt, and you probably wouldn't even notice it. With the AC on, the horsepower draw is small, not even really noticeable.
 
Right now all I have is a pipe dream and a few pieces of a custom setup.
I pulled the under dash portion of dealer installed a/c from a 74 Dart. At first glance it looks just the like factory air vent assembly but contains the vaporater, blower, expansion valve, and switches in those flats between the vents. The pipe dream part is to place a small altenater at lower right ( delete mechanical fuel pump ) and compumper where altenater should be. anyway...
If you are fighting rain water leaks, good luck. Could be wiper pivot seals. Could be the windshield gasket. I imagine your Duster would have the same openings in the cowl at the glass fence other a-bodies have.
 
you can see the compressor in these photos. it is much smaller than the factory units. condensor goes in front of the radiator, blends in with the radiator so it's not an eye sore. the rubber hoses look just like heater hoses really, and i think the engine bay still looks pretty clean. I blocked off the old fan housing, and used the existing heater hose holes for the heater bulkhead. I also got the 2 piece bulkhead from hot rod air, their basic kit comes with just the hoses, you'd have them just going through a hole you cut in the firewall. on the interior, i have the three knobs to the right of the stereo, and the vents under the dash. i have the defrost vents hooked up as well. the evaporator has 4 vent outputs, and 2 defrost outputs, and some holes towards the bottom of the unit for when you have the heat on. i'm still waiting on the elite control panel from them, but they'll pretty much throw in the knob label for free with your order if you ask, and you could put that label around your knobs in your dash for no extra money. they were way behind on my order when I made it in july, and i'm still waiting on the elite control panel and some newer model vents that they've come out with. if you want to have ac this summer, a smart man would be ordering from them in the next month. here's my rough breakdown of cost:

street rod kit - $950
bulkheads - around $75 (not required, but makes life easier and a cleaner install)
evaporator hanging kit - $45 (not required, but makes mounting the evaporator much easier)
elite control panel - around $200, you could just stick the label on your dash for basically free and it would look completely fine
fee to crimp ac lines - $45
vacuum and charge ac - $35
vacuum and charge ac again because i put the wrong o-ring on a fitting and had a leak - $35
driving in 105 degree heat with your windows up - priceless

if you have any more questions, fire away.

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thanks for the pics juvat, very nice. But when you say you had to remove the cross bar connecting the wiper because the vent hoses were rubbing, are you speaking of the defroster hoses? so if you don't need the defrost hoses ( living in texas rarely gets cold) then you wouldn't have to remove the cross bar correct?
 
Redfish, for some reason when the factor put my duster together they did a horrible job of plugging holes underneath and leaving the little nook and cranny's unsealed at some points around where the fresh air hole is behind the glovebox... well upon thinking everything was fixed, low and behold a huge puddle was in the floorboard after a rain we had and further investigation revealed some sort of leak on the back side of the flange that sticks down at the fresh air hole.. If it's not one thing it's another !
 
It was actually rubbing the dash vent hoses. I probably could have mounted the evap lower on the firewall, but it still would have been a tight fit. My evap has 4 vent holes, a smaller one has 3 and that would have allowed the cross bar. If you're gonna spend the money I'd get the big one and hang it lower than I did. Better to have too much cooling capacity than not enough. I would try to keep your defrost vents hooked up. It's 32 degrees in south tx right now, and I've already used the defrost a couple of times to remove fog from inside the windshield.
 
what did you do with the fresh air intake from the cowl? did you block it off or was there a hookup to it for this evap box?
 
I blocked off the fresh air hole on passenger side. I still have the fresh air vent on the drivers side. You'll also have to cover the hole in firewall where your blower motor was mounted.
 
I got a Nippondenso compressor off of a Nissan and had custom made AC hoses installed. I still use the factory controls, blower and vents. No issues and it cools better than original. The compressor is so small my 360 can hardly tell its on.
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This thread got me interested in finding out the differences in the RV-2 and the Sanden/Nippondenso compressors that would affect performance.

Weight: RV-2 44 lbs, Sanden 30 lbs
HP required: RV-2 12-15 hp, Sanden 3 hp

Unless the goal is to keep it all original, what's not to like about the newer compressor? I already have a Sanden in the Demon. I'll have to see what I need to do to get one in the /6. It needs all the help it can get.
 
This thread got me interested in finding out the differences in the RV-2 and the Sanden/Nippondenso compressors that would affect performance.

Weight: RV-2 44 lbs, Sanden 30 lbs
HP required: RV-2 12-15 hp, Sanden 3 hp

Unless the goal is to keep it all original, what's not to like about the newer compressor? I already have a Sanden in the Demon. I'll have to see what I need to do to get one in the /6. It needs all the help it can get.

I have slant six compressor mounts available, for the Sanden style compressor. See this link. It uses the OEM A/C drive pulley, so there is no problem on the "A" bodies with fan/radiator/compressor interference. It also allows the use of Offie, or Clifford aftermarket intakes. It will work with stock exhaust manifolds, Clifford, and MP headers (don't know about Hooker) headers. With headers the rear mount brace, will most likely have to be modified. The compressor mounts that were previously available mounted the compressor too far forward, and caused numerous problems in the "A" bodies.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/Halsey_Motors/Charrlie_S/Bracket7.jpg
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http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/Halsey_Motors/Charrlie_S/Bracket11.jpg
 
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