Anyone else using MegaSquirt on a LA motor?

-
I converted to Mega Squirt 3 last year on my Cuda, it is big block but many of the problems and hurdles are the same. I could not be more thrilled with the outcome. But in truth their website is totally bewildering if you are new to it all. I ended up purchasing a cheapy laptop that just stays in the car. Then I can just pull over and tweak on the fly if I want to. They offer some classes every now and then via local,race shop, I have found the classes to be very informative.
 
Newbie question, if I wanted to add EFI to my current engine (5.9 Mag with LA top end) using a MegaSquirt system would it be possible to build something that would also be able to control a later Gen 3 Hemi with variable cam timing? I'm guessing most of the 'controls' expense with the G3 Hemi swap would be the physical connectors, wiring harness and sensors?

Per the previous post, EFI Source does sells the Gold Box, which is essentially their version of the MS3X. You will still use Tuner Studio for tuning. If you buy one specifically for the G3 Hemi, it will come with a base tune and it will have the igniters installed inside of it to operate the COP coils. I do believe they have it setup to use GM style temperature sensor, MAP, and IAC, so you would have to fit those to the G3 Hemi. To answer your question if you could use this on an LA, and a G3 Hemi when you decide to change, the answer is yes. There will be some obvious configuration changes to switch, due to different types of sensor, ie; crank signal, cam signal, coil type, injector size, etc. You could try and use the same throttle body on both engines and that would eliminate some of the configuration changes. The thing I like about EFI is you can make just about anything work and it can run any engine. After all, regardless of brand, they all operate the same.
 
I thought I'd share more pics of my setup. You can see the LS coils mounted on the back of the intake. I actually reused my plug wires from the distributor. I just trimmed them and changed the ends. This is a carb M1 intake I welded injector bungs into. The fuel rails are Edelbrock (they sell intakes with bungs cast into them already). Throttle body is an Ebay special, but don't count on the supplier to know what sensors are needed. That took a little bit of research for me to figure out. This is what I ended up with: Early 2000s Ford TPS, late 90s GM IAC, and a modern TMAP. I don't know what they came on, I just found a website that sells them. It combines IAT and MAP into one sensor. This enabled me to remove the single IAT that would normally have to be installed in the air cleaner somewhere. Injectors are from an SRT8 G3 Hemi. I use a Tanks Inc efi gas tank with their pump combined with "corvette style" filter regulator. I've heard good and bad things about those, but I haven't had any problems, so nothing negative to say yet.

If ya'll have any questions, let me know. I'll be happy to help. I'm just finishing up this build. I made my maiden voyage around my neighborhood a week ago, so I still have some work to do on the tune and I'm sure lots more learning.

If you want more info on the car, there's a link to my build in my signature. Check it out and let me know what you think.
efi.jpg
efi2.jpg
 
'Old school' engine technology combined with sequential fuel injection and ignition... it couldn't get any better.
Totally awesome build, very nice car. Congratulations, this is an achievement!
 
I have a gold box for my 6.1L hemi in my 68 Charger... havent gotten it installed yet. I also have an MSIII that I plan on using to control an EFI system on a 8-71 blown 440 in my 64 Polara...

It all just takes time. I ran an older MSII on my EFI 512 years ago - worked very well.
 
Not an LA motor, but I am running a MS3 Pro on the Slant in my 68 Barracuda. I agree it was a deep dive at first, but after getting accustom to Turner Studio, it is a great FI system.
I do have a question for the MS users with A bodies.
Where did you mount your ECU?
My car was a strip only car so it was mounted on the passenger side floor. I am inprocess of changing the car to a strip-street car, so the ECU needs to get moved.
 
Not an LA motor, but I am running a MS3 Pro on the Slant in my 68 Barracuda. I agree it was a deep dive at first, but after getting accustom to Turner Studio, it is a great FI system.
I do have a question for the MS users with A bodies.
Where did you mount your ECU?
My car was a strip only car so it was mounted on the passenger side floor. I am inprocess of changing the car to a strip-street car, so the ECU needs to get moved.

My gold box is snuggled up under my dash on the passenger side - I am running an aftermarket A/C box and theres some room under there for it
 
Not an LA motor, but I am running a MS3 Pro on the Slant in my 68 Barracuda. I agree it was a deep dive at first, but after getting accustom to Turner Studio, it is a great FI system.
I do have a question for the MS users with A bodies.
Where did you mount your ECU?
My car was a strip only car so it was mounted on the passenger side floor. I am inprocess of changing the car to a strip-street car, so the ECU needs to get moved.
Mine is in the glove box. If you look close at my engine pic above, you can see a large bulkhead connector behind the engine. Everything passes through that.
 
Good ideas for mounting the ECU,
Thanks
I know a crank trigger would be the most accurate, but I already had a locked lean burn distributor so I am using that to trigger a MSD box for the ignition.
Works fine.
 
I hope you guys that have / are doing this will post some specific details of things like specific sensors, your trigger setup, fuel delivery, etc, the "little details" of how some of us find parts and save money is ALWAYS interesting and helpful
 
I have mine mounted under the passenger seat, fuses and relays on the inside firewall and a harness grommet to pass the loom through.
 
I hope you guys that have / are doing this will post some specific details of things like specific sensors, your trigger setup, fuel delivery, etc, the "little details" of how some of us find parts and save money is ALWAYS interesting and helpful
I pointed out some details in my post above. What else do you want to know? You can get all the sensors you need from a junkyard. Actually I suggest getting the sensors and their connectors from a junkyard. My TPS and coils are from a junkyard along with a few other connectors. I can post a pic of my crank trigger setup later- don’t have a pic on my phone.
 
I pointed out some details in my post above. What else do you want to know? You can get all the sensors you need from a junkyard. Actually I suggest getting the sensors and their connectors from a junkyard. My TPS and coils are from a junkyard along with a few other connectors. I can post a pic of my crank trigger setup later- don’t have a pic on my phone.

Well example what specific coils do you use, and have you since discovered something that might be better cheaper? Not bein' critical, but this info sure helps a lot of people. Thanks
 
Mine has the D585 I believe the standard ls coil packs, believe maddart used a infinity tps, cam sensor I converted to a jeep one, injectors are Bosch, forget who's 36-1 wheel he got and crank trigger. Sorry for the upside down pic of the crank trigger and wheel.

20190321_115040.jpg


20190224_141343.jpg


20190321_110710.jpg
 
Well example what specific coils do you use, and have you since discovered something that might be better cheaper? Not bein' critical, but this info sure helps a lot of people. Thanks

I’m using the D585 coils only because the internet says they are better. Haha. Are they really better, who knows, but the salvage yard employees won’t know the difference so the price is the same. These can be found on the 6.0 liter LS platform. I’m sure you can find them at any of your local pull a part salvage yards for $20-30. Make sure to get the brackets and all connectors even if you don’t plan to use them. I haven’t had any problems with mine, so there’s no reason to search for an alternative. I’m not one of those guys that need to have name brand BS parts for certain things. Buying $100/each MSD coils is a waste of money for what I’m doing. Why not use a factory part that I can buy a replacement at any local auto parts store if I break down on the road.
 
Here's a picture of my crank trigger setup. The toothed wheel is a 36-1 from DIY autotune. I machined a a hole in it that allowed it to fit on the back side of a factory pulley and tack welded it on. It's important to the ECU calibration to know exactly where the missing tooth is on the wheel. To prevent problems if I ever had to remove the pulley, I drilled an 1/8" hole in the pulley and into the damper a little so I have a reference point when reinstalling the pulley. The sensor you see in the picture also came from DIY autotune, although, you can probably use almost any crank sensor out there. I like the threaded body on this one since it allows me to fine tune the distance to the trigger wheel.
This is actually my second version of the bracket. My first one was on the left side of the engine and in a much more convenient spot, but once I installed the AC compressor, the belts came into direct contact with the sensor. This spot was the next best place for me since I also have power steering. If you don't have power steering, this will be much easier.


pick up.jpg
 
I hope you guys that have / are doing this will post some specific details of things like specific sensors, your trigger setup, fuel delivery, etc, the "little details" of how some of us find parts and save money is ALWAYS interesting and helpful


I put this thread together a few months ago. You may find some of the information there helpful. I've learned much more since I've put some miles on the car. Its lots of fun messing with efi. I'm not sure why I didn't embrace it years ago. I'll never purchase a carb again.
 
I’m using the D585 coils only because the internet says they are better. Haha. Are they really better, who knows, but the salvage yard employees won’t know the difference so the price is the same. These can be found on the 6.0 liter LS platform. I’m sure you can find them at any of your local pull a part salvage yards for $20-30. Make sure to get the brackets and all connectors even if you don’t plan to use them. I haven’t had any problems with mine, so there’s no reason to search for an alternative. I’m not one of those guys that need to have name brand BS parts for certain things. Buying $100/each MSD coils is a waste of money for what I’m doing. Why not use a factory part that I can buy a replacement at any local auto parts store if I break down on the road.
I used "cheapy" LS coils as well. Never had a moments bit of trouble from them. Reading this is like dejavu! Including the pix of crank trigger. The LS boys will never know how easy they got it! I mounted my coils on frame rails both sides. Excellent advice on the brackets!
 
I used "cheapy" LS coils as well. Never had a moments bit of trouble from them. Reading this is like dejavu! Including the pix of crank trigger. The LS boys will never know how easy they got it! I mounted my coils on frame rails both sides. Excellent advice on the brackets!

You're right. The simplicity of the LS makes it very attractive to a hot rodder. There's no wonder it is now cliche' to LS swap something. I have no idea what it's like to have a plethora of aftermarket support for an engine platform. Heck the physical size of the LS is even favorable. My next project will have a Gen3 Hemi (likely turbo) and I've pretty much written off that it will be an A-body because I don't want to deal with all the crap that comes along with putting the physically large engine in a small engine compartment.
 
-
Back
Top