Arizona Swinger

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After almost three years of wanting to hear this car run, and after replacing a suspect NEW Control Module, (the orange type), the 340 is no longer a hunk of pleasing to look at cast iron and aluminum, it RUNS!! Very pleased with the sound and response! Was a kick to run through the gears, while off the ground, and have everything work as it should. Maybe a little clutch adjustment, but not much. Finish up the lock out linkage and back on the ground! Then on to those pesky dash lights! (at least all of the gauges work properly, including that tach that seemed to originally want to go backwards?! Ben.

[ame="http://youtu.be/z4e6M2NmlLA"]302 Found[/ame]
 
Thats awesome!!! Nothing like hearing good sounds after years of hard work!! Spunds like you're going to make your goal!!
 
Mad Dart said:
shrinkpictures.com will take care of the resize for you.
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THANKS!! for the help with pictures, but what I need to do is down load a video from my Kodak digital camera! Tried downloading as I would a picture, but when I try to download to this site, it comes back as too large. Thanks again, Ben.
 
bmaudlin said:
THANKS!! for the help with pictures, but what I need to do is down load a video from my Kodak digital camera! Tried downloading as I would a picture, but when I try to download to this site, it comes back as too large. Thanks again, Ben.
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Oh. Photobucket or you can upload to Youtube and post a link to the video.
 
......still at a loss to upload videos! May need to find a primer with step by step instructions on how to do! Where is my 5 year old granddaughter when I need her!! Ben.
 
Gonna ask does yours have a trunk light if so do you know how and where it is routed with perhaps pictures ....or anyone else that reads this thread and can supply the info would be greatly appreciated. See you had to change the original master cylinder to a different style mine also has the same one your had originally and it is tough to find may end up redoing mine myself...would ask what kind of condition was the original cap on your master cylinder....mine has a bit of rust and not sure if it will clean up well enough for restoration.
 
King_viper98 said:
Gonna ask does yours have a trunk light if so do you know how and where it is routed with perhaps pictures ....or anyone else that reads this thread and can supply the info would be greatly appreciated. See you had to change the original master cylinder to a different style mine also has the same one your had originally and it is tough to find may end up redoing mine myself...would ask what kind of condition was the original cap on your master cylinder....mine has a bit of rust and not sure if it will clean up well enough for restoration.
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mine was pretty rusty.....had to order several before I found one that had the provision for bolting on the brake pedal rod. It looks like a drum brake master cylinder, but does have a larger reservoir for the front disc brakes. Wagner application chart showed that it fit both disc and drum.

A couple of pictures of the trunk mounted light. I assume it is in the correct place, on the left side of the trunk area, in the trunk hinge rod area. Ben.
 

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The 70 'A' body seems to be the one year Chrysler attempted to do some very funky lock out linkage on the manual transmission. Not only is there clutch linkage with the cross shaft and rods, but also the starter, and the exhaust running through the same general area. This one year attempt to provide a column switch lock out, which meant the car had to be in reverse to get the key out of the column, has proven to be very illusive in locating. I finally decided it might be worth a try to attempt and use the OEM automatic column shift linkage and adapt it for the manual lock out. The cross shaft mounts in the same location, and the two arms are at the same angle as the manual shaft according to pictures I located of an original manual lock out linkage. We did have to shorten the arms, especially on the clutch fork end, and a little bit on the opposite end. I purchased a lower rod and reverse shifter arm swivel with two studs from Brewers for an E body with a small block transmission. (Brewers does have a complete lock out assembly for a B or E Body for about 250.00 dollars, but I did not want to cut up new parts, when my old auto. shifter parts would work just as well and cost a lot less!). All of the parts fit together, and cleared everything just fine, which left only the rod from the column to the cross shaft which is adjustable. This not only has to clear the clutch cross shaft, but also must be adjustable to enable the column arm to be completely down and the shifter fully in reverse. We used the lower rod from the automatic column shift linkage to make this rod. The left over swivel from the reverse shifter linkage was fitted with an adjusting screw and installed onto the end of the rod where the original adjuster for the lower rod was,0 when it was attached to the auto. trans, and then into the column arm. The opposite end of the rod was attached to the cross shaft. Some minor adjustments and now we have a column that must be in reverse for the key to be removed! If in any other gear or neutral the switch will turn off, but will not rotate enough to allow the key to be removed. A little bit of paint and it all looks OEM, and works! Here are some pictures of what we have to work with and will download some more pictures with everything together. Ben.
 

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Nice, I wish I would have seen this some time ago. I had called brewers and asked about the A body lock out linkage and they said it was impossible to find. I have already pulled the lock out of the column and decided to go without. If you can make it all work, let me know what parts you've used.
 
The lockout linkage installed after painting.... it fits and looks and works pretty much like OEM! The only difference I see is that the rod that adjusts the whole mechanism, which is located coming off of the steering column arm, adjusts at the top of my linkage, whereas the OEM adjusted at the bottom, where the rod attaches to the cross shaft. So, it looks like with a little bit of work and a couple of parts from Brewers, the lock out linkage can be made from the OEM automatic column shift linkage rods and cross shaft with some modifications! One note: we could not drill the metal in the cross shaft.....really hard metal....we removed some of the metal from the arm and welded the end of the arm, with the hole, back to the shortened arm and then finished to look untouched.

The first photo shows the OEM auto. column shift cross shaft. The piece of linkage in the background, by the computer mouse, which originally was the lower shift rod attaching from the cross shaft to the auto.transmission, was used to connect the arm on the column to the cross shaft.

The list of parts purchased from Brewers were the lower rod with a special reverse linkage swivel, (E body small block application), the bellhousing bracket and a small parts kit which included the washers, spring clips and white cross shaft bushings. Everything else came from the OEM auto. column shift linkage, although heavily modified for use. NOW I have a column lock, which allows the key to be removed only when the shifter is in 'reverse', and cannot be removed in neutral or any other gear. Also, when the car is in 'reverse' and the key is removed the shifter cannot be moved out of 'reverse'. Ben
 

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Thanks as always Ben I was trying to keep pace with you on mine but I am the only one working on it and then I saw your post where it has been three years....whew still have 2 to go ..lol yours is a bit nicer but hey I am getting there... Too funny on the master cylinder had a parts store order me 5 at once hoping to get the right one...kinda like playing the lottery....think the odds are stacked against me
 
Down to 10 on the check list! I now have dash lights and turn signal and high beam indicator lights functioning.......seems the new bulb holders needed to have some adjustment done on the two contact points. Also went ahead and made sure the contact points on the circuit boards were clean as well. Hopefully that will be the last time I need to take the cluster out! Couple of small details left, like doing some adjusting to the left header pipe, as it is contacting the left side torsion bar, and a small drip from the trans., but there seems to always be some minor glitches no matter how careful you are in assembly. Too rainy today, but hope to take the car out on the road to alignment first of the week! Ben.
 

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bmaudlin said:
mine was pretty rusty.....had to order several before I found one that had the provision for bolting on the brake pedal rod. It looks like a drum brake master cylinder, but does have a larger reservoir for the front disc brakes. Wagner application chart showed that it fit both disc and drum.

A couple of pictures of the trunk mounted light. I assume it is in the correct place, on the left side of the trunk area, in the trunk hinge rod area. Ben.
Click to expand...

Yep thats the right place I also took another one, spliced them together, and mounted it in the same spot on the other side and installed bigger and brighter bulbs. My trunk lights up like a christmas tree

Man you are so close to bein done and she looks as good as she sounds. Is it idleing a little high? It sounds like it is but what do I know
 
the idle was set at 1500-2000 rpm as this was the initial start up and break in. Ran it for about 20-30 minutes then set the idle back down to 1000 rpm. Ben.
 
Well......another couple of set backs!! I took the car out for its' first bit of running up and down the street, and found I could not find second gear! It seems an acquaintance, who is heavy into Mopars, and swore to his 'expertise' in rebuilding transmissions, didn't do a very good job. It seems the synchronizer assemblies on both 1-2 and even 3-4 gears should have been replaced with new assemblies. That's problem no. 1! Take the trans. back out which leads to problem no.2, my jack slipped and I managed to put a good sized dent in the oil pan, which means it will have to be taken off to correct, either with straightening or replacement. Try as I might, being attentive to every detail, there always seems to be something that makes these kind of projects a headache. But I'm sure when I'm cruising down the highway listening to 'oldies' on the AM radio, the problems will bring a chuckle! Ben.
 
a couple of 'walk around' videos of my Swinger. Hopefully all of the info. I talk about is correct! Ben.:razz:

[ame="http://youtu.be/QMU4Hcx62-8"]302 Found[/ame]

[ame="http://youtu.be/Wm1coterVzw"]302 Found[/ame]
 
getting ready to put some seat belts into the car for temporary usage, until the complete set comes in some time next month. Wish I had enough to install the OEM ones, but the car only came with three female buckles, instead of the eight it originally came with. We were able to refinish the buckles with the darker green color, and were able to simply clean the webbing part of the belts.

Finally got the headrest trim pieces back from the chrome shop, and then installed the headrests. Still waiting for the side lever bezels and knobs.

Was also able to repair the oil pan after the 'slipping jack' incident! A little bit of careful hammer and dolly and then sanding and repainting and the pan looks pretty much like it did before my mess up! Ben.
 

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Didn't make it to the show in Tubac with the Dart, since the transmission is out and still at the rebuilders. Seems the case is bad where the cluster shaft slides into the case, as well as several other things. To say I'm somewhat depressed, or more aggravated than depressed would be an understatement! And the rebuilder seems to be at a loss to come up with parts reasonably. A lot of money spent with bad results! Looking for a rebuilt or like new replacement to put into the car! Any help out there??? Ben.
 
looking good, I have a question regarding your Headrests using the picture below did yours look like the one on the Left or Right ? I just got a 1970 Dart with a recovered bench seat and came with new headrests in sealed plastic (left) and when I removed the old ones (Right), noticed an obvious difference in the post lenght and notch location and the new ones won't lock in. I see that they make ones for bucket seat and bench seats and hopefully someone just ordered the wrong ones, Thanks for any help you can offer
 

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76orangewagon said:
looking good, I have a question regarding your Headrests using the picture below did yours look like the one on the Left or Right ? I just got a 1970 Dart with a recovered bench seat and came with new headrests in sealed plastic (left) and when I removed the old ones (Right), noticed an obvious difference in the post lenght and notch location and the new ones won't lock in. I see that they make ones for bucket seat and bench seats and hopefully someone just ordered the wrong ones, Thanks for any help you can offer
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Mine look like the one on the left. Mine seemed to slide into the seat okay, but once in the lower notch seems to hold them into place to the point where they will not come out. Maybe if I were to really yank on them they might, but since I'm happy with them in, I have not tried to take them out. Ben.
 
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