best place to get big brakes?

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good question, i wonder if they're the later model backspace, 6.something??
i keep try to get a grasp of this, how could there be so much difference from his suspension to mine, considering they're 73/76 disc brake set-ups?
hmmm
 
Where is the tie-rod interfering - at the rim edge? or at the tire? you have dropped spindles then it would move the tie-rod end lower towards where the tire buldge is.I run 17x8 bullets with a 3/8" spacer & I could probably run no spacer when I install my 11 3/4" rotors. I currently run 10 3/4" rotors so I have a spacer. Any further with a spacer & I would have to raise my front end to clear the outer fender.My tie-rod end is at the same position as paulyv100.
 
RAMCHARGED said:
Where is the tie-rod interfering - at the rim edge? or at the tire? you have dropped spindles then it would move the tie-rod end lower towards where the tire buldge is.I run 17x8 bullets with a 3/8" spacer & I could probably run no spacer when I install my 11 3/4" rotors. I currently run 10 3/4" rotors so I have a spacer. Any further with a spacer & I would have to raise my front end to clear the outer fender.My tie-rod end is at the same position as paulyv100.
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yes i have dropped spindles. it is hitting the very outer tip of the wheel. it doesn't hit untill you turn and it hits the tierod end. i ground it already,but i hate to go too much more! i am thinking about tweaking the steering arms a little. i am going to talk to our metalurgist at work tomorrow and see what she says about it. not sure how heating the cast and bending it will react.
 
RAMCHARGED said:
Where is the tie-rod interfering - at the rim edge? or at the tire? you have dropped spindles then it would move the tie-rod end lower towards where the tire buldge is.I run 17x8 bullets with a 3/8" spacer & I could probably run no spacer when I install my 11 3/4" rotors. I currently run 10 3/4" rotors so I have a spacer. Any further with a spacer & I would have to raise my front end to clear the outer fender.My tie-rod end is at the same position as paulyv100.
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Oh, I forgot about your dropped spindles! That's why there is such a problem. With 2" dropped spindles the tie rods move down 2" relative to the rim.
 
good call autoX.
wracks, if your'e really going with bigger viper brakes, you'll need to change the spindle to 10" drum brake spindle anyways. might as well do it sooner and solve the clearance problem get killer brake at same time.
 
pauly v.100 said:
good call autoX.
wracks, if your'e really going with bigger viper brakes, you'll need to change the spindle to 10" drum brake spindle anyways. might as well do it sooner and solve the clearance problem get killer brake at same time.
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I bet wracks has all kinds of clearance between the upper ball joint and the rim. Whereas pauly v.100 doesn't with stock spindles.


But if he switches to 73-76 A-body drum spindles, then he loses the dropped spindles. For larger that 1.04 T-bars on an A-body the indexing can be a problem and a dropped spindle can really help that.

Ugggh...Catch 22 situation.

Calling AndyF... Any ideas? New products to make this work?

Do you have a 13" thick rotor that will work with a dropped (late disk) spindle? The new Magnum Force forged or the Fatman welded dropped spindles?
 
yeah, what he said ^^
index the torsion bars???
i think im too tired for this, now i have to think about that.
i'm going to have mopar nightmares, which are pretty good for nightmares
 
pauly v.100 said:
yeah, what he said ^^
index the torsion bars???
i think im too tired for this, now i have to think about that.
i'm going to have mopar nightmares, which are pretty good for nightmares
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When people ran the old big MP 1.24 B/E body and MP 1.14 A-body T-bars the clocking on the T-bar hexes front compared to back made it tough to impossible to get the car at the ride height you wanted with the adjuster screws. Results very depending on the tire diameter and ride height you want.

The www.firmfeel.com big T-bars are susposed to have the proper indexing (clocking). Call Firm Feel for details.
 
thanks very much. i learn something here every day it seems. i'll also rest easier knowing my new firmfeel 1.06 bars are already dialed in. :thumblef:
 
autoxcuda said:
I bet wracks has all kinds of clearance between the upper ball joint and the rim. Whereas pauly v.100 doesn't with stock spindles.


But if he switches to 73-76 A-body drum spindles, then he loses the dropped spindles. For larger that 1.04 T-bars on an A-body the indexing can be a problem and a dropped spindle can really help that.

Ugggh...Catch 22 situation.

Calling AndyF... Any ideas? New products to make this work?

Do you have a 13" thick rotor that will work with a dropped (late disk) spindle? The new Magnum Force forged or the Fatman welded dropped spindles?
Click to expand...

that makes perfectly good sense! why the hell didn't i think of that?!! i have the fatman spindles,and i am not giving them up!! lol! i have been putting alot of thought into this the past week or so. i think i am going to go down to an 8" wheel in the front. with the spacers in the front it is putting the wheel into the fender also a little. it looks mean as hell!! but that's the way it goes! thanks for all the advice,help,and brainstorming guys!!
 
i hope it works man. i've heard some pretty scathing remarks about using big diameter rims on old mopars but i think they look great and the handling benefits are obvious. good luck and keep us posted.
 
LOL! i know about the remarks. alot of diehard purists into mopars! nothing wrong with that,just not me. i mean,i'm not desacrating a factory 340/4spd car!! to each his own i say!!
 
wracks71 said:
LOL! i know about the remarks. alot of diehard purists into mopars! nothing wrong with that,just not me. i mean,i'm not desacrating a factory 340/4spd car!! to each his own i say!!
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My car is an original 68 Formula S 340 coupe, california car, no rust, original motor with original bore.

I'll run 17" rims when I get some cash. I just beat the tar out of it last Thursday at Spring Fling Speed Festival at Buttonwillow. Needs to be rebuilt, at 5800-6000 it runs out of steam. Also it was pinging so I had to retard the timing (original pistons). Then I went out beat on it some more and then drove it 3 hours home. Oh well...

I went off course and spun out into a 360. Other then that, it was unscathed.

Pics:

http://www.socalamc.com/forum/index.php?topic=460.0

http://www.collages.net/ConsumerSite/Eventlogin.aspx
username: speed 09
password: 3442

http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/71autoxr/Spring Fling Speed Festival 2009/

DSC07064.jpg



VP2_1872.jpg


SFSF09Pic4.jpg
 
autoxcuda said:
This is the car with the Brembo Viper caliper and 13"? disks. And it runs the mustang spec rims you have too. I think AndyF can design them so you don't need a spacer?

This car is fast with a very capable driver/owner/builder that is a road course instructor. It's not some "Pro Touring" bling car that is an exercise in how many cool aftermarket/custom parts you can put together just for the fact they are aftermarket/custom. It's just build to go on the track and HAS repeatedly been on the track!!

IMG_2635.jpg




More pics showing motor and cage details:

http://www.mrmopar.com/SpringFling2007/WillowSprings/

AndyF I think has picture of this car dicing with a Porcshe 911 GT2?
Click to expand...

I really like this car
 
autoxcuda said:
My car is an original 68 Formula S 340 coupe, california car, no rust, original motor with original bore.

I'll run 17" rims when I get some cash. I just beat the tar out of it last Thursday at Spring Fling Speed Festival at Buttonwillow. Needs to be rebuilt, at 5800-6000 it runs out of steam. Also it was pinging so I had to retard the timing (original pistons). Then I went out beat on it some more and then drove it 3 hours home. Oh well...

I went off course and spun out into a 360. Other then that, it was unscathed.

that is so cool! i say your car at that deal on you tube. i want to do some of the open track day stuff soon this year. your car has a great look also. you can pic up the mustang wheels used pretty cheap. i got mine from american muscle that deals in mustang stuff.
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I just upgraded my setup with two piece rotors from Baer. These rotors save 6 lbs per side when compared to the standard cast iron rotors in my 13 inch kits. This is a new option for my kits. It will be a standard part number that customers can order directly from Baer.
5639946-BigRed.jpg
 
I think this is the biggest brake kit that you can buy for a Mopar muscle car. This is a 15 inch rotor and the caliper is a billet mono-block 6 piston setup. Kit is $3600 from Baer for the fronts only and you'll need to run a 19 inch rim to clear it.
5682720-15inch.jpg
 
That is MASSIVE! And what a great kit, but, I don't personally see a need to go that big...??? I have the stock 11 inchers on my 68 cuda, I'll upgrade when it's time for new rotors lol...
 
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