big block vs. smal block

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rgreule

rgreule

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ok so i am getting mixed reviews on what is better.. i know to some its a opinion, or bigger is better.. but to others they would rather has the small block or whatever.. what would be a better route for the people who cant afford to build a badass motor and would like their car to run good but not be a complete slug..
 
Get it on the road with a small block and decide what to build after driving it. Nothing kills a build faster than not being able to drive it.
 
I think it all depends how far you want to go.You could get a BB used ,hot cam,4 barrell headers, stall, 391 gear,smoken fast,or rebuild a SB and do the same.But in the real world cubes is were its at.You dont see a 340 in top fuel cars do you.my 2 cents guys.
 
Snake said:
I think it all depends how far you want to go.You could get a BB used ,hot cam,4 barrell headers, stall, 391 gear,smoken fast,or rebuild a SB and do the same.But in the real world cubes is were its at.You dont see a 340 in top fuel cars do you.my 2 cents guys.
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I just started driving my 416 stroker in my 68 Formula S. My neighbor who drives a big block Chevelle was thoroughly impressed at the big block feel but you do not have that weight hanging on the front. I say the biggest torquiest small block is best.
 
In thought if you had easy access to both motors.....if you spend the money to stroke a small block you can do the same to the big block and still have more power with the big block....if your willing to put the same amount of money in both...it seems BB all the way...???....???
 
DirtyDale said:
In thought if you had easy access to both motors.....if you spend the money to stroke a small block you can do the same to the big block and still have more power with the big block....if your willing to put the same amount of money in both...it seems BB all the way...???....???
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that is a very good point.. and it seems if you had easy access to either one after you put say 3500 in each one the bb would have more power.. but another question.. if i had a 440 and did mild things to it such as cam, headers, intake, carb. and did the same to a stock 360.. what would be better for street.. and could either one run 12s.. with 3.91 gear
 
Also remember the cost of installation. My latest Popular Hot rodding estimated $3500 for a motor install and figured that was why so many projects end up stalling at that point. My install wasn't far off that considering headers, carb, MSD 6AL etc. Making changes to accept a big block my end up costing you if you don't figure for it first. Solid mounting with an engine plate and solid engine mounts doesn't make for a good street car. I rode in a 68 Valiant a few times that taught me that lesson.....Just some other things to consider....
 
I would agree on putting a small block in first, even if the motor is not a high HP motor. Enjoy the car until you can afford a nice big block or even stay with a small block stroker. I like the 440 I have at 500 HP, but you can build a nice small block stroker and still put out the same HP. Plus the Smalll block would save some weight.

carlisle Scamp2.JPG
 
If you are starting from scratch a big block would be better although you could run 12's with either a big or small block fairly easily. The BB advantage comes later down the road with increased power potential later.

It will cost nearly the same to stroke a big block with alumunim heads as it would a small block with aluminum heads but with the potential for an easy 100 to 120 cubes in the big block it becomes obvious which one will make more power. BTW an aluminum headed low deck stroker would weigh in the same range as an iron headed small block so the weight issue becomes less of a factor.
 
In an a-body go with a small block,especially if its stroked..you'll be laughing at most all big blocks:-D:-D
 
It really depends on your budget, your skills, and the reason you are building the car. I have one original 340 car and, while I enjoy it, it really wasn't what I wanted to build, but due to its rarity it has stayed original. So, I got another car and built it with a 440 and four speed. Long story, but I am in the middle of my fifth big block a-body build and will drive this one everywhere, too.

I prefer big blocks for all reasons. You can make them handle, too. In the end, it is up to you to determine what you are capable of and what kind of help you have. Spend some time in the tech archives at www.bigblockdart.com and look at some of the cars.
 
Where did this $3500 figure come from? Is that how much more a big block install costs more than a small block install? I can't think of anything in a big block conversion that costs more than a small block. I have two small block darts, and one big block B-body. I've owned four 440 B-bodies, and I've driven a friends 440 Dart, and the big blocks were and are more fun for me to drive, even in the heavier cars. The 440 Dart was really a blast. Big blocks have bigger heads, and aftermarket heads just get bigger. It's harder to get things bigger on a small block platform, and that's where the power comes from. One HP per CI is pretty tame. This would get you 318HP from a 318, 408 from a stroker small block, and 512HP from a stroker big block, but with more torque than if you got the same HP from a small block.

Here's a post I wrote on weight reduction:

Part....................Weight savings
aluminum heads..........58#
intake..................25#
water pump & housing....15#
headers.................25#
Total savings:..........123#

Manual steering is 37# lighter than power, and a 727 is 75# lighter than an A-833, and who knows how much A/C weighs. Small blocks weigh the same as a slant 6, and the B motors are 95# more than that, so a manual slant 6 or small block with power steering and A/C (guess 60# for that) can weigh 200# more than a 383 or 528 A/T, mostly all up front. You can always move the battery to the trunk, too, so there is no reason to insist big block A-bodies are nose heavy boats handling wise. You could lighten a small block too, of course, but that's not the point, and I'm biased, so ignore that.
 
I have a 69 B'cuda FB,my friend has a '68 B'cuda conv. both street toy cars:

His: 422" Eddy head Sb,pump gas,pretty big flat hyd. cam, Eddy rpm,Holley 750Dp,727,Stall?(3k),8 3/4 w/ 3:91's....car is an absolute riot to drive,lites the tires at will(245/60-14)but w/ the gear/tire combo ..spins rpm on the highway.

Mine: 470" low deck BB,pump gas,small solid roller,Eddy rpm, Holley 800DP,833 4sp,3:73. Car is a riot to drive...better point it straight before you hit the loud peddle! Lites the tires at will in 1 and 2(245/60-15).Comfortable at 65 mph.

My BB seems to pull better down low(2k) than his SB. His SB seems to pull hard thru the mid(4-5k) My BB seems to pull hard on top(6K) I think mine has better low speed manners.

IOW it's a crap shoot..but I love my BB. With a few small susp. mods(frame connectors,sway bars,etc) my BB car drives/handles just fine. Either way they are fun cars.....if ya build a SB..build it big. If ya build a BB..do a low deck and....build it big! Upgrade susp./brakes cooling,etc..... and have a ball with it!!! Good luck!!!
 
I may not be the one to listen to here, but I am in the midst of installing a 440 into an A body right now, as in this week.

I bought the whole Schumacher kit and it was not that hard at all. Myself, an 8th grader and two freshmen (one with a broken arm) put the engine in. It took us less than an hour with a real basic cherry picker and a lift plate.

It was not that difficult at all up to this point. My tune may change, but thus far it is fairly easy.

Pro's for me at least for the 440:

Lower cost for more cubes
I had to buy mounts and headers anyways
Distributor in front-easy to tune
It appears to be easy to work on....so far.

Please keep in mind that I am building on a budget so stroker kits etc were not an option for me. I did DD a stock 318 Duster for awhile and it was fun for what it was, but I didn't find it that much easier to work on etc. It was still tight.

Compared to 4x4's with 40" tires, any of these cars are tight to work on! For the time being, this is the last car I will build with my students. We are heading back to truck world. It does not mean I won't build another car, just won't do it at school with my students probably.

My two cents.

ROB
 
I am told that you can make a 360 more powerful than a BB and have the weight savings..360s are still plentiful and you can get just abount anything (power wise) for them..my vote 360 :)
 
grassy said:
I am told that you can make a 360 more powerful than a BB and have the weight savings..360s are still plentiful and you can get just abount anything (power wise) for them..my vote 360 :)
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360 vs. 383, perhaps.
360 vs. 440, no way.

In either case to make the power of a stock 440, everything else (besides another RB or hemi) needs more cam than I'm willing to run on the street.

And, this isn't strictly about power for me. It's about torque and the crowd the car attracts at shows. I've had my GTS convertible very nice and it NEVER had a crowd around it like my son's 67 GT convertible which has NEVER been nice. For that reason alone I would choose a 383 over a 360, but I have a 440 set aside for my Barracuda so that's what it's getting. I do have a spare 340 and I also have a spare 360, but the 340 is the backup for my GTS and the 360 will get a 4" crank and go into my 79 Power Wagon at some point.
 
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