Birth of the Blue Missile

[blue missile]

Thanks for the encouragement guys it's been a very long and lonely journey so far.
Back to the build.
I was reading a cooling, or lack there of, thread and one of the posters suggested that some hood louvers which could be found on Jeep Cherokees might help by venting the engine compartment heat.
Well, since I have been looking for a solution for two small areas of oil canning either side of the hood scoop, That particular light bulb lit up!
What better way to get rid of the problem then to cut out the effected metal and put a vent in its place.The size of the louvers and the location that would be the design choice line up with the problem area so Batmobile it is.
I have also decided that I am going to have the cars paint job done in semi gloss with the exception of the blue stripes on the sides which will be polished out.
Andrew

 

[Old Man Mopar]

...I would swap my Machining for your Electrical work.

Ross, the sentiment is wonderful but in reality you probably wouldn't even be working
for 24 hours before Andrew converted your welder into some sort of Cold Fusion device.

 

[CudaChris67]

Andrew,
I, like a lot of other people can't wait to see your post.... but for me personally what you do is so Technically beyond anything else on here is hard to comprehend, granted I am very familiar with FLIR, but the ability to build it is mind blowing and make It hard for me to comment on, other than saying "good job" and "cool" and that just doesn't seem equal to the coolness involved in all the electronic stuff you make.....

I agree with 76orangewagon. I am subscribed to your thread and always read it as soon as there is an update. I am very impressed with your technical expertise and all of the great ideas you are incorporating into your car.

The last pic you posted above just blows me away with how clearly you can see. I also really liked the speaker enclosure. I never imagined there was anything like that. And incorporating all of your ideas into one car is just over the top. :thumleft:

I, too, can only say 'good job' and wait for your next post.
Dallas

X3..what is next!?

 

[76orangewagon]

I was reading a cooling, or lack there of, thread and one of the posters suggested that some hood louvers which could be found on Jeep Cherokees might help by venting the engine compartment heat.
Well, since I have been looking for a solution for two small areas of oil canning either side of the hood scoop, That particular light bulb lit up!
What better way to get rid of the problem then to cut out the effected metal and put a vent in its place.The size of the louvers and the location that would be the design choice line up with the problem area so Batmobile it is.
Andrew

Thats Funny, when you get a chance look at pg 110, post 2743 of my build....if you add the louvers, I'll be envious.

 

[blue missile]

I saw the post and personally I would put the smaller flange next to the scoop. In the mean time what is headed my way is a four part set. The exterior part is plastic but I really like the scale of the louvers, theyre beefy and I think that is what makes them look mean. The other half are the "drip trays w/ vent tubes. Which to are as valuable as the louvers themselves. I also have the possibility of either using the ones shown here which are 20ga steel or possibly finding someone to make me duplicates of the plastic pieces in steel.
Andrew

 

[67 prostreet gt]

This thing is way too cool man all the electrical stuff and all but one question. How will the charging system handle all the electrical loads cause I'm already having problems just getting a basic street car to work right

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[blue missile]

67,
With one of these, and an entire system set up for this kind of power.

Brand: Powermaster
Manufacturer's Part Number: 8-47539
Part Type: Alternators and Generators
Product Line: Powermaster Street Alternators
Summit Racing Part Number: PWM-8-47539


UPC: 692209004509
Advertised Amperage Output: 200 amps
Voltage Compatibility: 12

Andrew

 

[76orangewagon]

Andrew,
Have you seen these ?

http://store.billetalternator.com/320a-high-output-alternator-black-anodized-finish-b7771320b-841/

 

[blue missile]

Ross,
No I hadn't, but the main disconnect relays are rated for 200amps. Even at full tilt boogie I don't think Ill use that much. The only systems that use much amperage at all are the lights, the audio amp and RF amp and the compressor for the afterburners. Those total about 95 amps continuous. Everything else is rated in Milli-amps. OH yeah the data logging computer might draw 10 amps.
Andrew

 

[76orangewagon]

I'm going with there Black 150 amp version, which should be sufficient for my need's. Sound's like you've done your homework.

 

[blue missile]

Ross the 150 may be good for me as well, once everything is actually in place Ill do a load calc and go from there.
In the mean time my fears have been realized, I got the GenIV mockup unit from Vintage air and there is no way that will work. So Ill go with the GenII super and that forces me to redo the front console section. Talking about getting bit in the ***. However its still an all electric unit so the controls dont need vacuum. I will however order the rest of the electronics so once this is done we should be good with that section of the build.
Andrew

 

[76orangewagon]

Ross the 150 may be good for me as well, once everything is actually in place Ill do a load calc and go from there.
In the mean time my fears have been realized, I got the GenIV mockup unit from Vintage air and there is no way that will work. So Ill go with the GenII super and that forces me to redo the front console section. Talking about getting bit in the ***. However its still an all electric unit so the controls dont need vacuum. I will however order the rest of the electronics so once this is done we should be good with that section of the build.
Andrew

Ever consider a Rear (Trunk mounted) A/C unit to avoid the under dash issues

 

[76orangewagon]

Don't know if you saw this or not...Here's a link.

http://www.classicautoair.com/trunk-air-conditioner.html

 

[Captainkirk]

Damn, Andrew.....200 Amps! Hell, you oughta be able to weld with that thing!

 

[mosleyme]

I got the GenIV mockup unit from Vintage air and there is no way that will work.

Why not? I was hoping to go that route on mine.

 

[blue missile]

The reason GenIV wont work are the end of the unit outlets. I have a little stuff under the dash that most dont. Quite frankly the original design plan was to use the GenII Super. I just screwed up with the space allotment for the controls. Its the old thing where you are stuffing 16lbs of crap in a 3lb bag, you have to be careful and plan ahead. This is a perfect example of failure in that area and the ramifications of that lack of forethought.
Pic below.
Captain I may yet just use a 150 amp alt, well see.
Ross, I dont want to penetrate the rear firewall, what small race ways are there now will be filled with fire caulking when the car is commisioned.
Andrew

 

[blue missile]

I drove down to San Antonio today to visit Vintage Air. I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on a GenII super but I wanted to put my eyes on a unit and some of the other parts that I think will make this work. One of which is the transition between the horizontal "shop-vac" vent and the unit. As is so happens they make an adapter to accomplish this.
I met with Ronnie Palacios the salesman I had been talking to, and was given a tour of their HUGE facility. He reviewed the mechanical operation of one of the units and we discussed ways to solve my configuration issues.
In the end I will receive a GenII unit some time next week.
In the mean time here is the transition to vent solution.
I cant thank these folks enough for their help. I hardily recommend them .
Andrew

 

[Old Man Mopar]

Hey! Have you guys seen the pieces missing from my shop vac?

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Damn, Andrew.....200 Amps! Hell, you oughta be able to weld with that thing!

Not ness capt because my street car with no radio no air conditioning just twin spal fans a electric water pump a transmission cooler fan and all the relays along with headlights taillights and a MSD system with gauges I was pretty much taxing that 200 amp alternator with little room to spare

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[blue missile]

I've made a bunch of progress. I got and installed the new actuators for the hood scoop, and I moved the IR camera forward an inch greatly enlarging the height of the field of view. I also received the hood louvers today, and got them installed as well. I still have to make a drip catcher because the ones they came with really wont work.
I really like the "applied" look for some reason, rather than trying to make them out of metal and blend them into the hood. Go figure. I do think this really brings the nastiness factor up a notch.
Andrew

 

[76orangewagon]

I'm Digging the louvered hood.....Wish I would have added them to mine.

 

[blue missile]

Ross,
since the hood scoop's intake is isolated from the engine compartment, I thought they would also be useful for venting heat out of the engine bay.
Andrew
Yeah they look cool too.

 

[76orangewagon]

Ross,
since the hood scoop's intake is isolated from the engine compartment, I thought they would also be useful for venting heat out of the engine bay.
Andrew
Yeah they look cool too.

Isn't the back of your hood scoop open to aid in the venting process ? On a side note ......I ordered my BilletTech 170 Amp Alternator today..can't wait to get it.

 

[blue missile]

Ross, Cool on the alternator!
No the hood scoop only sees outside air. With the pop-up down it pulls from the rear, with it up, an interior flap closes and it draws only from the front.

On another note, you know that trip I took to San Antonio on TUESDAY, UPS just delivered my kit from Vintage Air! When I was there they did not have a super in stock to show me. So between tues and now they made one and got it here. I am so impressed with these people.
Andrew

 

[blue missile]

I have been working on the "drip pans" for the louvers. As purchased they were too big to fit where needed. After some surgery on the pieces and tomorrow on the hood, all should be functional.
Andrew