Any one use/have good reviews of these? Mopar Performance Bolt-In Frame Connectors
Thanks.
Thanks.
Bolt in frame connectors
- Thread starter Mopar Tim
- Start date
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Or bad reviews?
They’re fairly small dimensionally. It looks like they’ve upgraded the hardware to back everything up, they used to just use self threading machine bolts and the complaint for a long time was that they would back out after awhile.
What I would do is bolt them in, then take the car to an exhaust shop or something and have them welded in (assuming you don’t have a welder). The bolted connection would be the biggest drawback.
They’re probably not the strongest option out there in terms of results, but they’re way better than nothing. And they’re easier to install, their dimensions mean less interference with hose routing etc. I think they’re a good option for people without access to a welder, or if you have a finished car and don’t want to mess with re-routing fuel and brake lines.
What I would do is bolt them in, then take the car to an exhaust shop or something and have them welded in (assuming you don’t have a welder). The bolted connection would be the biggest drawback.
They’re probably not the strongest option out there in terms of results, but they’re way better than nothing. And they’re easier to install, their dimensions mean less interference with hose routing etc. I think they’re a good option for people without access to a welder, or if you have a finished car and don’t want to mess with re-routing fuel and brake lines.
According to @Mattax , to run auto cross class I am thinking of, they cant be welded in. Bolted in only.
Finely ordered the last of the parts to Transform my 69 to a road car. Was just thinking these might be a plus. And getting off the rhino lining coating will be a *****! The underside is coated with it.
Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
I bought A set of Hotchkis weld in units. They are nice and strong, beefy bars and easy to install great fit.With a big block in the car my doors still open and close nice so no twisting anywhere. Worth the money.
1967-1975 Dodge Plymouth A-Body Sub Frame Connectors (with 108 in. wheelbase)
Description
Applications: For models with 108 in. wheelbase
Hotchkis Sport Suspension 4014 1967-1975 Dodge Plymouth A-Body Sub Frame Connectors (with 108 in. wheelbase). The Hotchkis Performance sub-frame connectors for 1967-1976 A-Body cars tie together the chassis for added rigidity and improved vehicle performance by reducing flex. Fabricated from 1.5 in. x 2.5 in. rectangular steel these MIG welded connectors are powder coated gloss black. Installation of these connectors does not require modifications or cutting of the floor boards. This easy to install kit is a must for any high-performance classic Mopar. Powder Coated Gloss Black Finish MIG Welded Fabricated from 1.5 in. x 2.5 in. rectangular steel. Rigidly connects the front sub frame to rear chassis frame rail which dramatically reduces chassis flex during hard cornering and acceleration. Does not require cutting or modifying the floor. Tucked-in design gives excellent ground clearance. Benefits: Rigidly connects the front sub frame to rear chassis frame rail Dramatically reduces chassis flex during hard cornering and acceleration. Improves vehicle handling and traction.
Features and Benefits:
Mounting Points 2 Mounting Points
1967-1975 Dodge Plymouth A-Body Sub Frame Connectors (with 108 in. wheelbase)
Description
Applications: For models with 108 in. wheelbase
Hotchkis Sport Suspension 4014 1967-1975 Dodge Plymouth A-Body Sub Frame Connectors (with 108 in. wheelbase). The Hotchkis Performance sub-frame connectors for 1967-1976 A-Body cars tie together the chassis for added rigidity and improved vehicle performance by reducing flex. Fabricated from 1.5 in. x 2.5 in. rectangular steel these MIG welded connectors are powder coated gloss black. Installation of these connectors does not require modifications or cutting of the floor boards. This easy to install kit is a must for any high-performance classic Mopar. Powder Coated Gloss Black Finish MIG Welded Fabricated from 1.5 in. x 2.5 in. rectangular steel. Rigidly connects the front sub frame to rear chassis frame rail which dramatically reduces chassis flex during hard cornering and acceleration. Does not require cutting or modifying the floor. Tucked-in design gives excellent ground clearance. Benefits: Rigidly connects the front sub frame to rear chassis frame rail Dramatically reduces chassis flex during hard cornering and acceleration. Improves vehicle handling and traction.
Features and Benefits:
- Reduces Chassis Flex
- Improves Handling
- Allows Harder Launches
- Helps Reduce Body Rattles
Mounting Points 2 Mounting Points
Hey Tim,
Welded to the front and rear subframes is OK for ESP & SM now. It wasn't when I first did it.
But only two welded points. A third attachment is allowed, but it must be bolted.
Mopar performance ones are in my car now. I'm going to go to 2x2 tubing and trim down the height just where it goes under the rear footwell. Soon, very soon.
Check the rules for that specific class. Because that’s not true for a lot of the classes out there, and the rules are totally different depending on the class. For CAM-T you can do darn near anything.
Also, it depends on what your goal is. If you just want to have fun, it doesn’t matter what class you’re in. You won’t win any trophies if you end up in a really competitive class, but if that’s not the goal it doesn’t matter. If the goal is to win in a specific SCCA class, it doesn’t matter what works best, you have to follow the rules and they don’t always make for the best upgrades or car. Just a level playing field.
Got you! ThanksHey Tim,
Welded to the front and rear subframes is OK for ESP & SM now. It wasn't when I first did it.
But only two welded points. A third attachment is allowed, but it must be bolted.
Mopar performance ones are in my car now. I'm going to go to 2x2 tubing and trim down the height just where it goes under the rear footwell. Soon, very soon.
Agree, just for fun class with NO roll bar needed! (convertible)
Mopar Tim, what year is your Dart? I've looked at these, but not sure if '75 Plymouth Scamp is 108" or 111"? I've read both. I don't trust my measuring skills!
1969 Dart, I measured it, it is 111 inches. Convertible. Just face front wheels straight ahead, and measure with a tape measure, from hub center to hub center.
The difference between 108 and 111 is very noticeable, you can tell the difference readily.
Make sure the car is reasonable level. Take a short piece of string, put a weight on the end, fishing weight would be perfect. Use it like a plumb bob, hold in the center of the wheel cap. Mark the ground where the weight comes to, front and back. Just measure between the marks on ground.
Welding could be done without the front and rear brackets/cross plates in the MP and Hotchkis design. But I think using them is a good idea. It spreads the load and welding locations. I don't like concentrating the welded attachment points on the formed box members of the uni-body.
True its just for fun and it shouldn't matter. However I think its human nature to want to be in the ballpark. When in Novice classes, most region use PAX for handicap comparisons. Even without, its an unusual person that is totally immune to results and the temptation to compare.
I didn't check the PAX announcement for 2018, but the Nats results should make CAM-T relatively soft. No CAMT or CP particpation here, so I've stayed in SM. Looking to drop back to ESP. That said, sometimes I've found I driven better when there's no competition. Like any sport, performance under the gun can be a big factor. Everyone needs to find their own enjoyment zone.
True its just for fun and it shouldn't matter. However I think its human nature to want to be in the ballpark. When in Novice classes, most region use PAX for handicap comparisons. Even without, its an unusual person that is totally immune to results and the temptation to compare.
I didn't check the PAX announcement for 2018, but the Nats results should make CAM-T relatively soft. No CAMT or CP particpation here, so I've stayed in SM. Looking to drop back to ESP. That said, sometimes I've found I driven better when there's no competition. Like any sport, performance under the gun can be a big factor. Everyone needs to find their own enjoyment zone.
I have the Mopar bolt in ones in my Duster, fit fine, no cutting of the car.
They can also be welded in.
They can also be welded in.
I can handle that!
Thanks,
Woody
Thanks,
Woody
j par
Well-hung Member
Holy crap I forgot how much those things cost! Now I remember why I welded my own in! 200 + $300 +Insanity!
I think I went down to the steel yard and got a piece of rectangle iron for $30? My $89 Harbor Freight welder$35 Harbor Freight helmet and $15 Harbor Freight cutter/grinder. I actually cut a little window into the front of my rear subframe and slid the metal connector inside of the subframe in the rear and welded it inside.
But if you're trying to build something to some kind of particular track rules I reckon nothing like this would work for you.
My-2
I think I went down to the steel yard and got a piece of rectangle iron for $30? My $89 Harbor Freight welder$35 Harbor Freight helmet and $15 Harbor Freight cutter/grinder. I actually cut a little window into the front of my rear subframe and slid the metal connector inside of the subframe in the rear and welded it inside.
But if you're trying to build something to some kind of particular track rules I reckon nothing like this would work for you.
My-2
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
I used that set on my Scamp. The fit is great and it did make the car feel much better. I only bolted them in, never got around to welding them. The only thing is the front mount is kinda crappy. I made my own out of some angle and it is much stronger.
roccodart440
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I used them and welded them in as mentioned.
j par
Well-hung Member
So am I going to get this right? You buy the ones that bolt in and then cut the front off because it doesn't bolt on right and then weld it all in? How much are those things again? This is the piece of rectangle iron with ends welded on correct?
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