Bolt in frame connectors

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j par said:
So am I going to get this right? You buy the ones that bolt in and then cut the front off because it doesn't bolt on right and then weld it all in? How much are those things again? This is the piece of rectangle iron with ends welded on correct?
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There's nothing wrong with the front mount, it works just fine as a landing plate although it is a little small. On some cars you might need to drill a hole in it for the parking brake.

You have to keep in mind that not everyone has fabrication skills, or a welder, or can weld. Sure, you can make a set yourself for well under a $100 in material costs depending on the metal you use, what you have available locally for sources and how you do the landing plates. That's what I did. But it also took me the better part of a couple days to measure everything out, get the metal, make all the cuts, do the welding, get them fit and trimmed etc. and do the installation.

So, if you're considering your labor time to make a set of subframe connectors and you consider "paying yourself" more than minimum wage, buying a set of connectors for a couple hundred bucks that you can just bolt in and be done with in an hour doesn't look so bad. If I picked up an overtime shift at work instead of building my own connectors I could have probably bought connectors for several of my cars. I fabricated the set of for my Duster, and I was glad I did. I bought the set for my Challenger (hotchkis), and was glad I did. The Hotchkis ones are definitely prettier than mine, although I don't expect they actually work any better.

Lots of different ways to do this stuff. If you're money poor, time rich, and can fabricate then building your own is the way to go. If you're short on time and have some extra bucks, or can't fabricate, there's nothing wrong with paying someone else the money to do the fabrication work and install.
 
Nope, like I said I just bolted them in. Just didn't like the flat plate that came in the kit so I used some angle and drilled holes in them. Still used the nuts and bolts that came with it. Easy Peasy :)
 
72bluNblu said:
There's nothing wrong with the front mount, it works just fine as a landing plate although it is a little small. On some cars you might need to drill a hole in it for the parking brake.

You have to keep in mind that not everyone has fabrication skills, or a welder, or can weld. Sure, you can make a set yourself for well under a $100 in material costs depending on the metal you use, what you have available locally for sources and how you do the landing plates. That's what I did. But it also took me the better part of a couple days to measure everything out, get the metal, make all the cuts, do the welding, get them fit and trimmed etc. and do the installation.

So, if you're considering your labor time to make a set of subframe connectors and you consider "paying yourself" more than minimum wage, buying a set of connectors for a couple hundred bucks that you can just bolt in and be done with in an hour doesn't look so bad. If I picked up an overtime shift at work instead of building my own connectors I could have probably bought connectors for several of my cars. I fabricated the set of for my Duster, and I was glad I did. I bought the set for my Challenger (hotchkis), and was glad I did. The Hotchkis ones are definitely prettier than mine, although I don't expect they actually work any better.

Lots of different ways to do this stuff. If you're money poor, time rich, and can fabricate then building your own is the way to go. If you're short on time and have some extra bucks, or can't fabricate, there's nothing wrong with paying someone else the money to do the fabrication work and install.
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I can, and have the ability to fabricate these, but why? They are all done for you. Like said, your time is the most valuable asset you have. AND it is finite....
 
Mopar Tim said:
I can, and have the ability to fabricate these, but why? They are all done for you. Like said, your time is the most valuable asset you have. AND it is finite....
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I don't blame you. I could have made my own as well but the price isn't all that bad and steel isn't as cheep as it used to be. It's a good kit you'll like it I'm sure.
 
It’s because some members will flaunt his skills and rag on the price while he ballyhoo’s on how much you save while making you feel stupid for not doing so.

No matter how it’s done, get it done!
 
Mattax said:
Tim, If the rear of your 'vert has the 'torque boxing', you may have to trim. If it doesn't, then they'll slip on as is.
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It has the torque boxes, so I figured out they will have to be trimmed. Thanks.
 
Mopar Tim said:
I can, and have the ability to fabricate these, but why? They are all done for you. Like said, your time is the most valuable asset you have. AND it is finite....
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Totally.

And really, if you look at the set that I built compared to the MP bolt in ones, there isn't much difference. Biggest thing is that mine are 1.5"x 3" instead of 1"x 2" (I think). That does make a difference in cross sectional area, but the attachment points are still the same so it really it might not make that much of a difference.

MP's
mopar-performance-bolt-in-frame-connectors-114.jpg


Mine. You can see they're wider as there's no step to overlay the rear frame rails, 3" is what you need there. And I made the rear landing plates bigger, to fit all the way up to the flange on the frame rail to floor connection. The front landing plates wrapped under the crossmember as well, more area, more dimensions covered.
IMG_4996_zps19e18495.jpg

IMG_5010_zps13f324a0.jpg

IMG_5012_zpse0044a73.jpg


With the 1.5" tall tubing they sit right agains the floor under the footwells for the backseat, so, depending on rules they could be welded to a decent section of the floor which could help with torsional strength. You can also see my brake lines here are still in the stock location and pass over the top, so no issues passing the lines through the rails like on the weld to floor types like the US Cartool connectors.
IMG_1808.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
Totally.

And really, if you look at the set that I built compared to the MP bolt in ones, there isn't much difference. Biggest thing is that mine are 1.5"x 3" instead of 1"x 2" (I think). That does make a difference in cross sectional area, but the attachment points are still the same so it really it might not make that much of a difference.

MP's
View attachment 1715158132

Mine. You can see they're wider as there's no step to overlay the rear frame rails, 3" is what you need there. And I made the rear landing plates bigger, to fit all the way up to the flange on the frame rail to floor connection. The front landing plates wrapped under the crossmember as well, more area, more dimensions covered.
View attachment 1715158131
View attachment 1715158130
View attachment 1715158129

With the 1.5" tall tubing they sit right agains the floor under the footwells for the backseat, so, depending on rules they could be welded to a decent section of the floor which could help with torsional strength. You can also see my brake lines here are still in the stock location and pass over the top, so no issues passing the lines through the rails like on the weld to floor types like the US Cartool connectors.
View attachment 1715158133
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Like that. Thanks for the pictures. :thumbsup:
 
Mopar Tim said:
Make sure the car is reasonable level. Take a short piece of string, put a weight on the end, fishing weight would be perfect. Use it like a plumb bob, hold in the center of the wheel cap. Mark the ground where the weight comes to, front and back. Just measure between the marks on ground.
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Thanks Tim for helping me out, mine is definitely 111".
 
Getting parts, just got new rear springs, just about everything now. Just have to put them on the car!!:thumbsup: I have been enjoying driving the thing, Hate to put it out of service...again!
 
Well hindsight can be a really great thing! Especially with this Forum and all?
Okay maybe I can make this real quick for someone if they had all the knowledge ready? 2 pieces of one and a half inch by 2 and 1/2 in rectangle tubing exactly 4 ft long. You should be able to Google nearest Steelyard to you and have them cut it for you. They only sold it in 10 ft pieces so I ended up having them cut it into two four foots and a piece left over. I brought it home and filleted a 3-inch slice for the front as you can see in the picture that I will provide and then the back I took a$15 Harbor Freight four and a half inch cutting wheel and opened up the rear subframe. Of course after the cuts I needed some pliers to bend it down and take the cutting wheel off and replace it with a grinding wheel and smooth things off. At that point I could slide the butt end of the tubing inside the frame and then slide it back for up tight against the front subframe. At this point someone could take it maybe to a muffler shop and have them welding in? I even showed where it went into the frame passed a big hole that I also welded in the plug. Please Laugh at My beginner welds because they've held just fine wheelies and all.
Okay that's $30 for the metal$15 for the grinder $5 for the cutting wheels and $5 for the grinding wheels. Maybe $50 at a muffler shop to weld it together? $105 total?
Or one could add the $89 welder the $35 helmet and some $15 welding gloves and being to the whole kit and caboodle to $250? What happens if you had to do a bad weld? You pull out the grind or any kind of back off and you do it again! LOL oh yeah and don't forget the feeling you did it yourself which of course is priceless! It's underneath the car so only Barrett-Jackson and their mirrors will tell the story when it comes down to it LOL.
I think even with a beginner this could be done in one day with all these dimensions and ideas put in place? My best Summit Services got here the next day. And please remember after you've waited for $200 -$300 frame connectors to get delivered you still got to go and Jack the car up line it up under their drill holes with shavings dropping down on you and make sure the whole goes through level to the other side and doesn't go crooked and all that kind of crazy stuff and then end up maybe welding them in there anyways?
IMG_20180327_173556.jpg
IMG_20180327_173419.jpg
IMG_20180327_173448.jpg
IMG_20180327_173504.jpg
 
j par said:
Well hindsight can be a really great thing! Especially with this Forum and all?
Okay maybe I can make this real quick for someone if they had all the knowledge ready? 2 pieces of one and a half inch by 2 and 1/2 in rectangle tubing exactly 4 ft long. You should be able to Google nearest Steelyard to you and have them cut it for you. They only sold it in 10 ft pieces so I ended up having them cut it into two four foots and a piece left over. I brought it home and filleted a 3-inch slice for the front as you can see in the picture that I will provide and then the back I took a$15 Harbor Freight four and a half inch cutting wheel and opened up the rear subframe. Of course after the cuts I needed some pliers to bend it down and take the cutting wheel off and replace it with a grinding wheel and smooth things off. At that point I could slide the butt end of the tubing inside the frame and then slide it back for up tight against the front subframe. At this point someone could take it maybe to a muffler shop and have them welding in? I even showed where it went into the frame passed a big hole that I also welded in the plug. Please Laugh at My beginner welds because they've held just fine wheelies and all.
Okay that's $30 for the metal$15 for the grinder $5 for the cutting wheels and $5 for the grinding wheels. Maybe $50 at a muffler shop to weld it together? $105 total?
Or one could add the $89 welder the $35 helmet and some $15 welding gloves and being to the whole kit and caboodle to $250? What happens if you had to do a bad weld? You pull out the grind or any kind of back off and you do it again! LOL oh yeah and don't forget the feeling you did it yourself which of course is priceless! It's underneath the car so only Barrett-Jackson and their mirrors will tell the story when it comes down to it LOL.
I think even with a beginner this could be done in one day with all these dimensions and ideas put in place? My best Summit Services got here the next day. And please remember after you've waited for $200 -$300 frame connectors to get delivered you still got to go and Jack the car up line it up under their drill holes with shavings dropping down on you and make sure the whole goes through level to the other side and doesn't go crooked and all that kind of crazy stuff and then end up maybe welding them in there anyways?
View attachment 1715158230 View attachment 1715158231 View attachment 1715158232 View attachment 1715158233
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A good way to go. Nice. BTY, I always get grief about my "weak" welds. By my professional welding buddy. Screw him, I tell him, never failed yet! Trailer hitches and all.
 
Then again, your Pro buddy should have whipped this out for you. Give him the guilt trip!
 
Mopar Tim said:
According to @Mattax , to run auto cross class I am thinking of, they cant be welded in. Bolted in only.
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==========This don`t sound right, why wouldn`t they want an additional safety factor ?! The bolt in bars are barely better than nothing , as far as torque twisting goes. Front to rear (flexing/buckling) they would help.
 
famous bob said:
==========This don`t sound right, why wouldn`t they want an additional safety factor ?! The bolt in bars are barely better than nothing , as far as torque twisting goes. Front to rear (flexing/buckling) they would help.
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Seems they allow welding to Two points, a third must be bolted. Updated rules. No full welded connectors to the floor pan.
 
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