j par
Well-hung Member
The only reason I welded it to the floor pan was because it was against it LOL
Bolt in frame connectors
- Thread starter Mopar Tim
- Start date
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Factor of safety with respect to what?
famous bob
mopar misfit
OK, about the rules, just don`t understand that.
I did 2' square tubing inside the rear frame as shown in a post above, fit in it perfect w/ a little messaging. The front I used plate as normal, bolted up to the trans. crossmember , while getting the rest done, then welded that too. They are cut in to the floor full length, and welded there too.
Very stiff, and look like they belong. I did use 3/4" foil faced foam board to build the floor level even w/ the top of the bars in the interior, before covering w/ new carpet. You cant tell they are there. My home made driveshaft loop is welded to the new frame rails. The roll bar plates/mounts are welded to the frame rails and the floor also. The rear seat bolts go thru the driveshaft loop , pretty strong set up that doesn`t weigh any more than the normal ways of doing it. The raised block 505" fastback only weighs 3273 w/ 1/2 tank of 91 lawnmower gas , w/o me in it.
The class I am thinking of, does not want raced prepped car running in it. If you weld them in, like above, you are raced prepped.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Understand. the stiffer a car is the safer tho, to me anyway .
Sure can agree on that....
IF one happens to be replacing rusty rocker panels, they could weld unistrut from the front torque boxes to the rear, then put the new rockers on over it, -out of sight out of mind. Or something like that.
I thought of that when I read somewhere that convertibles were beefed up behind the rockers.
I thought of that when I read somewhere that convertibles were beefed up behind the rockers.
Tim,
The MP ones, if the least expensive, work well and get the job done. Some of the stuff on the market is STUPID expensive for what it does. If you want to fab up something that provides stress relief from the other crap in the world, that's valuable too. My old "pick your parts, pay your money" statement.
Last set I built had about $15-20 in materials.
The biggest issue with the bolt in stuff is the holes will wallow out over time from stresses applied. If you can reinforce the rails where the connectos attach, that would be helpful. If you are alowed to weld them in, that's the best approach.
Rob
The MP ones, if the least expensive, work well and get the job done. Some of the stuff on the market is STUPID expensive for what it does. If you want to fab up something that provides stress relief from the other crap in the world, that's valuable too. My old "pick your parts, pay your money" statement.
Last set I built had about $15-20 in materials.
The biggest issue with the bolt in stuff is the holes will wallow out over time from stresses applied. If you can reinforce the rails where the connectos attach, that would be helpful. If you are alowed to weld them in, that's the best approach.
Rob
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pishta
I know I'm right....
Heres mine. I got the metal as scrap per lb, I think it was 2 @ $10 bucks. Front was an endplate and a birdshit flux core weld. Its ID was same as OD of rear subframe so it slipped over rear frame rail. Pin it with a through-bolt and weld it up. Just make sure your frame is up on LEVEL jackstands and your doors shut properly prior to welding, as you may weld in a body sag that will make your door clearance close up. I tacked it a few places where I could to the pan but it was just a few places. Dont know why the flash blew out the welds but you can see them for sure! Wire brush the slag/rust afterwords and hit with any paint as it will flash rust.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I paid $1800 for 10ft. of 2x2 , .120 wall square tubing for mine .
$1800? Ouch, That must be Mopar metal
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$18.00 Right?
I would have built mine, but you can only buy steel in 20' sticks around here.
Just easier to pick up the pre-fabbed ones, bolt them in and be done with it.
My time is worth more than, the hrs spent to fab them.
Just easier to pick up the pre-fabbed ones, bolt them in and be done with it.
My time is worth more than, the hrs spent to fab them.
Black Girl
Active Member
Tim, I welded the Mancini bolt in connectors (same as mp) in my 69 Dart conv today. You will have to trim the outside rear more than you want to get them to fit with the torque boxes. So I just drilled a bunch of 1/2 inch holes in what was left for plug welds. I had to move the parking brake cable up in the cross member. You will be instantly happy at the difference in the car.
Thank you. Good info...
famous bob
mopar misfit
------LOL , $18.00 still laughing !
Are you selling frame connectors?
j par
Well-hung Member
See this is what I'm talking about you spend the day under the car cutting Drilling and Welding and it just doesn't make sense? I don't see the Big Time Savings in researching and ordering and waiting for two pieces of 4 ft long inch and 1/2 by 2 in metal stock powder coated. (Hopefully)?
My question is after all that measuring cutting Drilling welding (almost forgot re-touching up the paint after you weld) do you feel those two pieces of metal that you bought where a great deal and a Time Savings?
Or do you think if you were given two pieces of 4 foot metal stock that you could cut and not drill and weld those in faster the first time as they would be measured to the right length the first time by you?
j par
Well-hung Member
Honestly to me it sounds like more work to retrofit those in there than just build them right the first time.
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