Any one use/have good reviews of these? Mopar Performance Bolt-In Frame Connectors
Thanks.
Thanks.
Or bad reviews?Any one use/have good reviews of these? Mopar Performance Bolt-In Frame Connectors
Thanks.
According to @Mattax , to run auto cross class I am thinking of, they cant be welded in. Bolted in only.They’re fairly small dimensionally. It looks like they’ve upgraded the hardware to back everything up, they used to just use self threading machine bolts and the complaint for a long time was that they would back out after awhile.
What I would do is bolt them in, then take the car to an exhaust shop or something and have them welded in (assuming you don’t have a welder). The bolted connection would be the biggest drawback.
They’re probably not the strongest option out there in terms of results, but they’re way better than nothing. And they’re easier to install, their dimensions mean less interference with hose routing etc. I think they’re a good option for people without access to a welder, or if you have a finished car and don’t want to mess with re-routing fuel and brake lines.
Finely ordered the last of the parts to Transform my 69 to a road car. Was just thinking these might be a plus. And getting off the rhino lining coating will be a *****! The underside is coated with it.They’re fairly small dimensionally. It looks like they’ve upgraded the hardware to back everything up, they used to just use self threading machine bolts and the complaint for a long time was that they would back out after awhile.
What I would do is bolt them in, then take the car to an exhaust shop or something and have them welded in (assuming you don’t have a welder). The bolted connection would be the biggest drawback.
They’re probably not the strongest option out there in terms of results, but they’re way better than nothing. And they’re easier to install, their dimensions mean less interference with hose routing etc. I think they’re a good option for people without access to a welder, or if you have a finished car and don’t want to mess with re-routing fuel and brake lines.
Hey Tim,According to @Mattax , to run auto cross class I am thinking of, they cant be welded in. Bolted in only.
According to @Mattax , to run auto cross class I am thinking of, they cant be welded in. Bolted in only.
Got you! ThanksHey Tim,
Welded to the front and rear subframes is OK for ESP & SM now. It wasn't when I first did it.
But only two welded points. A third attachment is allowed, but it must be bolted.
Mopar performance ones are in my car now. I'm going to go to 2x2 tubing and trim down the height just where it goes under the rear footwell. Soon, very soon.
Agree, just for fun class with NO roll bar needed! (convertible)Check the rules for that specific class. Because that’s not true for a lot of the classes out there, and the rules are totally different depending on the class. For CAM-T you can do darn near anything.
Also, it depends on what your goal is. If you just want to have fun, it doesn’t matter what class you’re in. You won’t win any trophies if you end up in a really competitive class, but if that’s not the goal it doesn’t matter. If the goal is to win in a specific SCCA class, it doesn’t matter what works best, you have to follow the rules and they don’t always make for the best upgrades or car. Just a level playing field.
1969 Dart, I measured it, it is 111 inches. Convertible. Just face front wheels straight ahead, and measure with a tape measure, from hub center to hub center.Mopar Tim, what year is your Dart? I've looked at these, but not sure if '75 Plymouth Scamp is 108" or 111"? I've read both. I don't trust my measuring skills!
I used that set on my Scamp. The fit is great and it did make the car feel much better. I only bolted them in, never got around to welding them. The only thing is the front mount is kinda crappy. I made my own out of some angle and it is much stronger.
I have the Mopar bolt in ones in my Duster, fit fine, no cutting of the car.
They can also be welded in.
They’re fairly small dimensionally. It looks like they’ve upgraded the hardware to back everything up, they used to just use self threading machine bolts and the complaint for a long time was that they would back out after awhile.
What I would do is bolt them in, then take the car to an exhaust shop or something and have them welded in (assuming you don’t have a welder). The bolted connection would be the biggest drawback.
They’re probably not the strongest option out there in terms of results, but they’re way better than nothing. And they’re easier to install, their dimensions mean less interference with hose routing etc. I think they’re a good option for people without access to a welder, or if you have a finished car and don’t want to mess with re-routing fuel and brake lines.