Bonami sealed the rings!

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chris17

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Well another success story with Bonami, not even a 1/4 teaspoon down the carburetor and oil consumption and slight smoking gone! What a great way to solve the problem. I have doubted this in the past but figured what the heck, gave it a shot and worked wonderful. Thanks Bonami!:cheers:
 
Well I havent heard of this, but, ok. Guess I will have to google this. Wont this vertically score the cylinder walls?
 
It's very old school - and I think temperary. But I've heard of it. And yes - brand is very important as I recall.
 
I've heard of this, always told as a joke and with derision. I find it difficult to believe this is a LEGITIMATE "fix." Otherwise, why do we run air filters?
 
Well as a last ditch effort i figured why not, and i havae done some research on other peoples results and found quite a bit of positive.
 
Shoulda tested it out in my old smokey 318 before I Pulled it out, just to see what happens. Butw wouldn't that just be a temp fix?
 
chris17 said:
Well another success story with Bonami, not even a 1/4 teaspoon down the carburetor and oil consumption and slight smoking gone! What a great way to solve the problem. I have doubted this in the past but figured what the heck, gave it a shot and worked wonderful. Thanks Bonami!:cheers:
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Just curious, how did you introduce the powder into the engine?
How much have you driven it since doing this?
I've heard of doing this but can't get my mind around how it would work to fix an oil ring.
 
I took a 1/4 teaspoon and with the throttle held at 2000 i slowly sprinkled into the carb. Closed the hood and drove it like i stole it for a half hour. It has never not smoked since rebuilding, now its fabulous!:happy1:
 
I plan on going on a nice long drive today, the motor only has about 900 miles on it.
 
chris17 said:
I took a 1/4 teaspoon and with the throttle held at 2000 i slowly sprinkled into the carb. Closed the hood and drove it like i stole it for a half hour. It has never not smoked since rebuilding, now its fabulous!
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Ah, a rebuilt engine. It may help indeed.

I have read articles that back in the 50's it was widely used at GM car dealerships because a lot of the new cars had smoking issues due to glazing on the cylinder walls. Supposedly the Bonami removes that glazing to allow for better ring seal.
 
BonAmi...hasn't scratched yet!
 

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I heard of comet and bon ami for seating rings back in the 70's when I worked in my family's auto parts store. Dad was a factory rep for sealed power in the 60's and early 70's and would cringe when he heard of someone doing this. The only explanation we could come up with was that the cylinder walls were not properly honed during a rebuild. Having been "the kid" around the parts store, I got stuck with teardown of most of the motors that were rebuilt by us and employees. I've seen way more stuck rings than rings that were moving freely in the ring groves that were in "oil burners". Using the correct grit stones and correct cross hatch pattern when honing never caused us to have rings that wouldn't seat.
 
So when you rebuilt it did you just baby it around or just you load it down to seat the rings? it would smoke if the rings didn't seat due to improper break in
 
I feel i was to gentle during the break in procedure, i used Sealed power standard gap plasma-moly kit. #R9903.:-({|=
 
chris17 said:
I feel i was to gentle during the break in procedure, i used Sealed power standard gap plasma-moly kit. #R9903.:-({|=
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to break in you need to load the engine. I like getting to bottom of third and then pull up to 60 then back down and then up again so it really has to grunt. Do this 5 or 6 times and the rings are ready to go.
 
chris17 said:
I feel i was to gentle during the break in procedure, i used Sealed power standard gap plasma-moly kit. #R9903.:-({|=
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Was told many years ago that if all the machine work is done correctly that there is no reason to "break in" the motor....minus of course the cam/lifters. This was by what was regarded as "the best" motor shop in NJ. During a trip to Island Dragway you would see there stickers on damn near every ones race car. Bill, the owner, would tell folks to break in the cam and then just drive the damn thing. He said that by babying it you were asking for trouble. Motor he did for me went over 400k miles without burning a drop....and I drove it on day one the way it was going to be driven its entire life.

Bought a sport bike right around the time he told me this. On the way home from the dealer hit redline several times. Rode the snot out of that bike....100k very hard miles never used a drop of oil. Same can be said for the bike I bought after that one.

How to builders "break in" a motor on a dyno? Let it come up to temperature then load the snot out of it....they do not spend a few hours varying the rpm & load.....

This topic has popped in the past. If memory serves me right someone mentioned that Caterpillar sells/sold a "break in dust" very similar to what is being discussed here. I would be concerned with some of this "magic dust" working its way into the bearings.....but perhaps I am just paranoid...
 
Being Old school I have used Bonami in many old oil burners in the past. I is critical to use a cleaner like Bonami that doesn't have the scratch substance like pumice. I've dumped it down the carb in running engines right out of the can! So much the exhaust would turn greenish. If your dealing with an old engine that smokes, uses oil or has stuck rings, What do have to lose? If it doesn't work? Your looking at a rebuild or replacement anyway? I've had engines go another couple of years after this.
 
chris17 said:
I plan on going on a nice long drive today, the motor only has about 900 miles on it.
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Depending on the rings used for the rebuild, it's possible they weren't seated yet. Glad it worked for you, I'm personally very leary of introducing anything into a new rebuilt engine.
 
Inkjunkie, there was just a thread in racers forum on how to break in a motor. Im with you, load the rings up and down a few times and let em rip.
 
chris17 said:
I took a 1/4 teaspoon and with the throttle held at 2000 i slowly sprinkled into the carb. Closed the hood and drove it like i stole it for a half hour. It has never not smoked since rebuilding, now its fabulous!:happy1:
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I'd find a different engine builder
 
every ring requitres a different cylinder finish. a moly ring requires a very smooth finish, like no breakin required, chrome takes a pretty smooth finish too but there is a break in, cast rings need a coarser finish to lap them to the cylinders. Its all in the cylinder finish. Get rings then hone to them. Or Hone to a specific ring and USE those rings. mix and match will not yield good results.
 
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