Break in problem...

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'66Cuda

'66Cuda

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Today, I fired my 360 up for my first break in. Its a relatively mild build @ .060 over with 9.3 compression, and a Summit street/strip cam. It is in my '66 Barracuda and I am using the 273 stock manifolds (I know I know, headers come later). I ran it around 2200-2400 RPM for only 7 minutes and had to shut down due to an oil leak, and my electric fan not kicking on. During the break in, my manifolds started glowing red hot. I had expected it to do that, based on several threads I have read on here....but how long should it go like that? It got so hot it melted my spark plug boots (small fire) on my brand new MSD 8.5s, #5 and #7 where the manifold wraps around the plug boot. That sucked :banghead:. It fired immediately, and I never really felt the timing was off, but due to all the commotion with oil leaks, smoke, spark plug boots, and temperature getting too hot, I never got a chance to actually check the timing to see where it was. My question is, can the timing being off cause it to continue to burn red hot like that? How long should it go red? Temperature got to 220ish...any worries there?

Thanks
 
Give it more initial timing and the manifolds will not glow.
 
'66Cuda said:
Today, I fired my 360 up for my first break in. Its a relatively mild build @ .060 over with 9.3 compression, and a Summit street/strip cam. It is in my '66 Barracuda and I am using the 273 stock manifolds (I know I know, headers come later). I ran it around 2200-2400 RPM for only 7 minutes and had to shut down due to an oil leak, and my electric fan not kicking on. During the break in, my manifolds started glowing red hot. I had expected it to do that, based on several threads I have read on here....but how long should it go like that? It got so hot it melted my spark plug boots (small fire) on my brand new MSD 8.5s, #5 and #7 where the manifold wraps around the plug boot. That sucked :banghead:. It fired immediately, and I never really felt the timing was off, but due to all the commotion with oil leaks, smoke, spark plug boots, and temperature getting too hot, I never got a chance to actually check the timing to see where it was. My question is, can the timing being off cause it to continue to burn red hot like that? How long should it go red? Temperature got to 220ish...any worries there?

Thanks
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first don't panic ! A 220 speak upon break in is very normal. Just the result of a lot of new parts wearing in together. Definitely look into your oil leaks. Definitely have the fans working or overridden for the break in continuation. Definitely make sure there's not a air bubble of sorts in the block or heads. I did this by not running a thermostat during break in. I had a Timing gun attached while starting my break in procedure and my distributor just loose enough to turn if I needed a little bit. I think you'll be just fine. just keep your cool and double check everything. make sure you keep the motor cool also and you to. lol. I think you'll be just fine you did the right thing by shutting it down when you notice things are getting out of control.. Good luck and let us know how things turn out please.
 
I would double check your timing. Also, I heard that once the car breaks 200 degrees, to shut it off and let it cool down. You don't want all that heat during break in time.

The 20 minutes doesn't have to be continuous, so even though you stopped after 7 you're still fine.
 
Thanks for the responses. The oil leak was the oil filter relocate kit fittings that weren't tight enough. The fan was because I didn't wire the ignition wire from the relay properly, or at least I think that is the case. I can bypass the relay and the fan comes on. I have good ground to the sending unit, so that is the only thing it could be. I will give it more timing, and buy some replacement wires to get me through break in. As for a coolant air bubble, I felt both hoses and they were really hot, as well as the whole radiator being really hot. I just think it being in my garage on a hot day, with no fan, is what caused the temperature spike....along with the break in like what JPar said. I had my timing light hooked up and hold down loose, but I only got as far as checking RPM's on my timing light. I will update upon next attempt.
 
yup timing was retarded need more initial. you have to have your timing light hooked up and ready, set the timing within the first minute after fire up.
 
I know some people don't like this but I have always timed my motors before I turn the fuel on while was making sure I had oil pressure. Usually only takes a few seconds to adjust and every engine I have done this to has fired right up and ran perfect without having to readjust until later when tuning. I think this does less damage than an engine starting with the timing a lot farther off than you thought.
 
put a healthy fan in front of rad. front end jacked up. thermostat OUT. make a mark on dampener 2&7/32" CW from the TDC slit & have your dist man set it to that (vac adv capped) when it fires. read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com goose the throttle many times. they're glowing from either way too lean (like an acet torch) or too rich (fuel still burning in the manifolds)
 
when setting timing. before engine starts, rotate crank till dampner is at 10 deg BTDC, align reluctor to # 1 plug wire, you now have initial timing, it will fire right off. total will be close. done every motor this way, always fires , no cranking, no retarded timing. lots easier method.
 
Rapid Robert said:
they're glowing from either way too lean (like an acet torch) or too rich (fuel still burning in the manifolds)
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Or from late or retarded timing. Its not burning in the cylinder and is being pushed out the exhaust. Its almost always a timing issue. I run these engines with thermo couples in every exhaust port to keep an eye on things. I also will run the vacuum advance hooked right up to manifold vacuum for break-in to keep the exhaust temps down, and to make sure we don't dilute the oil from incomplete combustion during the break-in period. 30-45* of timing at no load 2000-2500rpm will not hurt anything.
 
If you start running too hot and need to cool it down in a hurry, keep a garden hose ready on the side and spray water through the radiator fins. Water can take away much more heat than air and can keep you cool during your break-in...

Just don't break anything, breaking it in....
 
UPDATE: Timing is set to 34 degrees, no more red hot manifolds (Thanks!). With the thermostat removed, I got 12 minutes of run time until I had to shut down due to temperature running up to 210. It was a cooler night tonight and I had a large electric house fan blowing in addition to my Spal pusher fan, but the car is still in the garage (all doors open with a small breeze blowing through) with no brakes, so I can't move it outside. On the temperature climb, it paused around 195 for a couple minutes, and I thought I had it whooped. Then it gradually started climbing again and slowed around 200 for a bit and then began climbing again. I know doing the break-in in my garage is not ideal, but its how I had to do it, as I am having to redesign my MC/Booster setup. Do you think it will behave like it should when I'm driving, or this going to be one of those bass turds that doesn't like to cool? My radiator is a brand new aluminum three row Champion.
 
Do you think it will behave like it should when I'm driving, or this going to be one of those bass turds that doesn't like to cool? My radiator is a brand new aluminum three row Champion.
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You'll be fine, you just dont have enough airflow right now plus the friction from the breakin seating. Your timing is in the ballpark and you have enough radiator. only potential caveats are mixture in ballpark & no vac leaks & make sure the stat opens & lower hose ain't in danger of collapsing. schroud and a MP thermal clutch fan properly spaced is the best setup
 
'66Cuda said:
Do you think it will behave like it should when I'm driving, or this going to be one of those bass turds that doesn't like to cool? My radiator is a brand new aluminum three row Champion.
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You'll likely be fine. Unless you plan on holding the car at over 2000 rpm's for twenty minutes at stop lights? LOL !! Just keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp. Have fun!!:burnout:
 
j par said:
You'll likely be fine. Unless you plan on holding the car at over 2000 rpm's for twenty minutes at stop lights? LOL !! Just keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp. Have fun!!:burnout:
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Hah! Good point! Completely missed the obvious, so worried about everything being correct! :violent1:
 
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