cam degreeing needed?

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Darren said:
Sorry i meant to say 3* not 2*. another thing is i am setting the indicator plunger against the outer lip of the hyd lifter. is that ok? thanks
Click to expand...

You can do that. I just flip the lifter upside down.
 
:banghead:I like to set my dial indicator on the valve spring retainer. It is one to one with the lift of the valve.


If you go off the lifter, you have to calculate where the valve will be at .050" after going through the rocker arm ratio.... :banghead:
 
Almost every cam card for LA/B/RB engines on the planet is based on tappet lift, not valve lift.

Changing rocker ratio or the dreaded crappy LA lifter angle throws a wrench in other methods because the numbers you see won't match the card.

I'd leave the cam installed at 110.

As long as the lobe is symmetrical, get lifter to max lift, turn back past .050 below and come back to .050 from max, note reading on degree wheel. Go .050 after high point, note reading, add two numbers and divide by 2. Easy method to obtain centerline.
 
crackedback said:
Almost every cam card for LA/B/RB engines on the planet is based on tappet lift, not valve lift.

Changing rocker ratio or the dreaded crappy LA lifter angle throws a wrench in other methods because the numbers you see won't match the card.

I'd leave the cam installed at 110.

As long as the lobe is symmetrical, get lifter to max lift, turn back past .050 below and come back to .050 from max, note reading on degree wheel. Go .050 after high point, note reading, add two numbers and divide by 2. Easy method to obtain centerline.
Click to expand...



I've never heard of a cam rated at .050" lift at the lifter....
 
There are no variables when measuring off the lifter/tappet. Timing at .050 tappet lift is pretty much an industry standard and has been for a long time. At least as long as I've been involved in building engines which is close to 40 years. I remember a lot of Comp/cam dyn/crane/erson cam cards with .050 tappet numbers on them.

Measuring at the valve retainer can have some really whacky results especially with a hyd lifter. Lifter doesn't collapse on front side, gets smashed over the nose to change preload, then the backside reading is off. Yes, you can shim the lifter, but why bother when measuring straight off teh tappet gets the job done.
 

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So Darren, after all that effort and all the arguing in this thread about degreeing the cam in to the recommenced specs, you find it's out 3 degrees. And what's the next bit of advice you get?? Your told just to leave it as it is and disregard the recommend setting..
LOL
 
So where should he install the camshaft?

And if it showed up at 116, you wouldn't be in here crapping and talking out your neck...

I won't see your not so eloquent response, you're headed back to the ignore list.
 
Hey... just sayin...
If you can't handle the truth, then by all means use your ignore list.
 
Bakerlite said:
So Darren, after all that effort and all the arguing in this thread about degreeing the cam in to the recommenced specs, you find it's out 3 degrees. And what's the next bit of advice you get?? Your told just to leave it as it is and disregard the recommend setting..
LOL
Click to expand...

when i degreed the cam lastnight it was late and i was getting pissed off because the crank bolt was losening when i would spin the crank C clockwise, causing the D wheel to slip a degree or 2. So after a good night sleep i degreed it twice more and came dead on the nose at 113 * . atleast i know that it should be good to go. thanks to all
 
That's good Darren,
Even though you now have 113 deg, another member say's "I'd leave the cam installed at 110". Now will he say that you should change it to 110??? Well, I doubt it,so it's all just a storm in a tea cup.
It's good to see your almost up and running.
 
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