Cam for a 360 build with the parts i have

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Auzdart

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Hi all,

I know there is a ton of 360 build threads, I've been looking through them. But I cant find exactly what I'm looking for.

I have a 360, 904 74 Dart Sport.
I'm am currently fitting 8 3/4 with 3.7 ratio. This will require a convertor change so while I'm at it I may as well liven up the engine.
The 360 is running J heads, MSD, an unknown Mopar cam and a 770 Avenger.
I plan to use the bottom end that is already there. It has been rebuilt in the past.
I have on the shelf a new set of RHS heads & air gap manifold which I want to use.
So that brings me to cam specs, this is always confusing for me.
Any recommendation for me? 450hp+ is the target.
Thanks.
 
I curious about your 8 3/4 gears. I thought they were only 3.23, 3.55, and 3.91 from the factory. Please educate me. Paul.
 
There are 3.73 gears out there for a 8.75.
Compression ratio?
What is the goal,low end torque, higher revs.
All street,some strip?
 
Static will be around 10-1 to 10.5-1. Street and weekend strip. With that gearing more RPM is what I'm chasing.
 
What converter are you planning on and rear tire will you be running? Do you have hydraulic or mechanical cam now? Save your cam and lifters together, those will sale on here. If you have the funding, a custom converter is well worth the money. Precision of new Hampton, PTC, Frank Lupo, Precision, etc. They are built around your final combination. 450 hp is very doable with the RHS heads. I would probably go as far as to contact Ken Heard at Oregon cam grinders. But if I were to go with a shelf grind and get the converter tuned around it, I’d probably go with an MP 284/.528 solid cam.
 
I was planning on getting the cam sorted and then match the convertor to suite. Custom convertor was my plan. Currently the cam is hyd with standard rockers. Are you asking about tyre purpose or size? The purpose is a street tyre. Don't know the dia.
 
you didn't say whether solid or hydraulic lifter.
if Hyd, maybe something about [email protected], much more than that and you will lose low end and probably not gain much on the top end because hyd lifters aren't going to be happy past 6k rpm unless you have everything setup perfect.

the tough thing at the moment will be finding something in stock if you are looking to buy quickly.

this has good info, a smoother street hyd cam vs a faster solid cam.
Chrysler 360 Engine Mods - Mopar Muscle Magazine

there is another dyno test that had edelbrock heads which might be more inline with what you could do depending on how well the RHS heads are prepped. I will try to find it and post it...
 
IMO
for a streeter
a 450 hp 360 with 3.91s may not be that street-friendly; been there done that. This will require something like the Mopar 292 cam,(248*.050) which makes peak power at about 5600. To get the 450hp number you will need it to be on a 108LSA or less. Which means a torque peak around 4100, and a shift rpm of about 6000. With a 727, that means on the 1-2 shift, the Rs will fall to 3540, which is well below the torque peak.
But 6000 in first gear with 3.91s and 27" tires is around 44 mph, and the 2-3 comes at about 77mph, dropping from 6000 to 4140, back into the basement as regards the torque peak. And 6000 in Third will be around 136 mph; so that would be a pretty long pull from 77 to 136; lol.

Restated; your powerband with a 292/108 cam may be from ~4100 to 5900= 1900rpm.
But your trans has a requirement of .59on the 1-2 and .69 on the 2-3 , which are 2420 in Second, and 1830in third.
Now, if you spin right thru first gear on the street, which with 450 hp is about guaranteed, then the 1-2 split is not a big deal. But if you also spin say half way thru second, which is from 44 to 77 so say she stops spinning at 60, that would be around 4600, lessee 5600 less 4600= 1000 rpm short of the power peak, and you are nearing the shut-down speed, which for me is 65 mph, cuz I don't get speeding tickets.

So My point is this; if your car is gonna spin the tires to 60mph with 450 hp, and trap at 60=4600; why do you want 450 hp? You can do the very same thing with 400hp; even 350 maybe even 300.

Now, the thing is this; assuming
an elevation of 900ft, and
the 292/108 cam in at 104* which then has an Ica of 70*, and
with an Scr of 10.5, and so
is predicted to make about 159 psi CCP, and a Dcr of 7.83
But the VP at 127 is only a lil more than a 5.2Magnum; so, it will take-off like one, and act like one up to about 3300 rpm
Read about V/P here V/P Index Calculation
To get past all that, you would need a fairly hi-stall TC.

Or do what I did; With alloy heads you can run close to 200 psi on pumpgas here which is (R+M)/2, available in octanes of 87, 89, 91 and occasionally 93. I have run 185psi on 87E10
If you do that, then you can down-cam at least 2 sizes to say [email protected] and still make say 380hp , but now with a power peak of say 5200, which will like the 3.91s. And it will have a super-fat low/mid range

Bumping the Scr to 11.3 with an Ica of 66*, will get you a Dcr of 9.0, CCP of 187psi, and a stinking wicked V/P of 157, all at 900ft elevation.
I have run this exact combination. It didn't make anywhere near 450 hp but it was way more fun to drive. By the car's trapspeed of 106mph in the Qtr, this was maybe 350 hp. Possibly a lil more cuz I was shifting at 7000, on a 5200 power peak, yeah so I did not know that I was that far out of sync..

Anyway, since you are at this early stage of the build, I thought I'd mention these things, before you get the lazy bottom end below 30 mph, that is so frustrating when you don't have one lower gear.....

The whole point is to decide at what roadspeed you want the power to be. What is most valuable to you? And then try to fit that in with the gears that you are willing to run. And then build only enough engine to make that happen, without excessive wheelspin.
Forget trying to build a street car to be competitive at the track. Those two, with a 360/auto, require completely different rear gears and stalls, and OMP, will need more gears. No matter which way you bias the combo, the other will always suffer............ until you consider supercharging.
Happy HotRodding
 
IMO
for a streeter
a 450 hp 360 with 3.91s may not be that street-friendly;
Glad that’s your opinion. What you like and others like…. Opinions vary…..

This will require something like the Mopar 292 cam,(248*.050)
To get the 450hp number you will need it to be on a 108LSA or less.
Wrong
So My point is this; if your car is gonna spin the tires to 60mph
Conjecture

why do you want 450 hp?
Because he asked for it.
You can do the very same thing with 400hp; even 350 maybe even 300.
Wrong
Good idea
To get past all that, you would need a fairly hi-stall TC.
In which a good modern converter won’t matter since they drive extremely well on the street.
Or do what I did; With alloy heads you can run close to 200 psi on pumpgas here which is (R+M)/2, available in octanes of 87, 89, 91 and occasionally 93. I have run 185psi on 87E10
If you do that, then you can down-cam at least 2 sizes to say [email protected] and still make say 380hp , but now with a power peak of say 5200, which will like the 3.91s. And it will have a super-fat low/mid range

Bumping the Scr to 11.3 with an Ica of 66*, will get you a Dcr of 9.0, CCP of 187psi, and a stinking wicked V/P of 157, all at 900ft elevation.
I have run this exact combination. It didn't make anywhere near 450 hp but it was way more fun to drive. By the car's trapspeed of 106mph in the Qtr, this was maybe 350 hp. Possibly a lil more cuz I was shifting at 7000, on a 5200 power peak, yeah so I did not know that I was that far out of sync..
I would be wary of pushing the static compression and ratio as high as he suggest because of varying octane at the pump. You would also be giving up horsepower by running 89 instead of 93 and taking full advantage of what it has to offer.
Anyway, since you are at this early stage of the build, I thought I'd mention these things, before you get the lazy bottom end below 30 mph, that is so frustrating when you don't have one lower gear.....

The whole point is to decide at what roadspeed you want the power to be. What is most valuable to you? And then try to fit that in with the gears that you are willing to run. And then build only enough engine to make that happen, without excessive wheelspin.
Forget trying to build a street car to be competitive at the track. Those two, with a 360/auto, require completely different rear gears and stalls, and OMP, will need more gears. No matter which way you bias the combo, the other will always suffer............ until you consider supercharging.
Happy HotRodding
Truth in this, so I would rebuild a engine to meet the requirements or just work within the low compression ratio of the engine as is. Otherwise don’t blindly follow
Such a dickhead…..
 
the 7131 cam lobe is 243* @ .050" - 157* @ .200, solid cam.
air gap intake had tq peak at 3800-4000 - 469lbft
472 hp @ 6000, 475 hp @ 6200
OMG! A lowly 10-1 engine making SUCH HP!!!!
What will AJ ever do?

@Auzdart It doesn’t take big compression numbers nor demand a 108 C line (Which is recommended by the way for increased low end torque and earlier peak power)
FWIW, there is no shame in doing a copy cat of these builds and if you stray away from the build, it should be for the better not the worse.

Your stock compression engine is not up to the task. I don’t know what your heads flow but there is the first key in making power, cylinder head flow. More the merry. It’s been shown here (and in mags) before that this is key.
 
How do u plan on getting 10-1 or 10.5-1 with out getting into the short block? Kim

can Auzdart tell us what pistons he has and how far below deck they are?
the RHS heads are probably 62-64cc combustion chambers?

I plan to use the bottom end that is already there. It has been rebuilt in the past.
I have on the shelf a new set of RHS heads & air gap manifold which I want to use.
 
Its an assumption. When I remove the J heads that are on it now I will measure how far down they are. If they are to low I will have to go a bit deeper than planned.
 
Call your favorite cam company and tell them what you have. They will recommend a cam for you.
 
Hi all,

I know there is a ton of 360 build threads, I've been looking through them. But I cant find exactly what I'm looking for.

I have a 360, 904 74 Dart Sport.
I'm am currently fitting 8 3/4 with 3.7 ratio. This will require a convertor change so while I'm at it I may as well liven up the engine.
The 360 is running J heads, MSD, an unknown Mopar cam and a 770 Avenger.
I plan to use the bottom end that is already there. It has been rebuilt in the past.
I have on the shelf a new set of RHS heads & air gap manifold which I want to use.
So that brings me to cam specs, this is always confusing for me.
Any recommendation for me? 450hp+ is the target.
Thanks.

What compression do you have now. That will be a limiting factor.
What rpm range will you be using?
Towing a ski boat? 1/4 mile at a time?
You need to pick your cam based on its plans use and rpm range.

Call a cam company.
 
If you are going to stick with a hyd FT cam, send your original lifters to Clive Cams in Melb for re-facing. That way, you will not have any 'surprises' when you start the engine with the new cam.
 
With the parts you have. Have the heads fitted with 2.02 and 1.60 valves and have them ported to SNOT and back professionally. Blueprint compression to 10:1 and choose a small solid roller camshaft. That should do it.
 
“With The Parts I Have”

Running power brakes? If so, you could consider changing what you have there and convert to manual brakes and toss any concerns about having enough vacuum to operate power brakes. Just an idea.
Get a quality 3500 tight converter as a minimum, cam on a 106LSA, in the [email protected]” range if hydraulic, [email protected]” range if a solid. You’d be surprised at the excellent Street ability and numbers you can put down at the track (when all else is matched and dialed in) using the smaller vs temptation for bigger when it comes to cam selection. That’s my take at least:)
 
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can you tell us about these RHS heads you have? Indy-X heads?
they are already setup? any chance for a high quality valve job and some bowl blending?
 
I can tell you that the comp xe284 with a 3500 converter was a pooch out of the hole. Voodoo 60403 with the same converter and 3.91's rip. I'm over the 3.91's however and the voodoo cam is a pooch with 3.23's.
 
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