Changed intake gasket, now it won't start

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I use a 32MM (I think)
not the right size, but the only one I have that fits

now, I think we need to start putting two and two together
your also having a coolant leak, correct?

what are the odds the intake gaskets are on wrong?
 
WSUTARD said:
Does anyone know the size of bolt head? I will go grab a socket.
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give me a couple hours and I will - - I have the socket and it sits in my box in one spot and boom, got when I need it - I don't need to know the size.. I want to say 1 1/4 but I am not sure..
 
1 1/4 is correct. I believe he got top dead center using his finger to find compression stroke. With spark, compression, air/fuel, and timing (valve and ignition) it will run. You have this list of 4 things to check.

P.S. - you didn't need to pull the distributer to change the intake.
 
P.S. - you didn't need to pull the distributer to change the intake.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, but you posted first.
Why was the distributor taken out in the first place?
 
The gasket was correct FelPro 1213. Its openings were spot on to the intake and exhaust openings on the head and intake.

I needed to pull the distributor because the last two intake bolts also held on a bracket that holds the throttle cable. There are spacers that lift the bracket up but also place the head of the last bolt right under the housing of the distributor. Only way to get it off was to remove the distributor.

When I turn over the engine there is a strong smell of gas. I wonder if something in the carb got messed up? I have tried a quick spay of starting fluid and still nothing.
 
You need to invest in more tools, or be more creative with the ones you have. I've pulled intakes numerous times without pulling the dizzy, and yes, they had the throttle/kickdown bracket.
However, pulling the dizzy is nothing and probably isn't your problem.

Check around your intake to make sure you didn't accidently tighten a wire, cord, etc. etc. in between the intake and head. Pull the plugs and smell them... gassy?? If so, clean, dry out the cylinders by leaving the plugs out, check for fire at the plugs, and reinstall. Pull the carb off and inspect. Floats stuck and filling cylinders with gas?? IF so, look at your oil. Might be a good thing it didn't start if there is gas in the oil.
 
318willrun said:
You need to invest in more tools, or be more creative with the ones you have. I've pulled intakes numerous times without pulling the dizzy, and yes, they had the throttle/kickdown bracket.
However, pulling the dizzy is nothing and probably isn't your problem.

Check around your intake to make sure you didn't accidently tighten a wire, cord, etc. etc. in between the intake and head. Pull the plugs and smell them... gassy?? If so, clean, dry out the cylinders by leaving the plugs out, check for fire at the plugs, and reinstall. Pull the carb off and inspect. Floats stuck and filling cylinders with gas?? IF so, look at your oil. Might be a good thing it didn't start if there is gas in the oil.
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I will take a look at the carb. I was thinking maybe it was the floats but I could smell gas on the plugs when I pulled them yesterday so I figured it was doing its job.
Nothing is caught between the intake and the heads.

diymirage said:
I use a 32MM (I think)
not the right size, but the only one I have that fits

now, I think we need to start putting two and two together
your also having a coolant leak, correct?

what are the odds the intake gaskets are on wrong?
Click to expand...
I believe that the coolant leak was from the hoses. I tightened the clamps up and it hasn't leaked again.
 
Opened the carb up. Floats and other components look fine. There is a slight black residue on the front ports. Not sure if that is normal or not. See the pics.
Moving on to double checking the spark. Will also visually inspect for TDC and make sure timing and rotor points are aligned.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
well, there is your problem...your carburetor is not assembled
of course it wont run that way

:poke:


not running a PVC valve?

or did you accidentally hook that up to the power brake port on the back ?


glad to hear you got that coolant leak figured out
small victories
hopefully this non running issue is something of the same magnitude (that's my four cylinder word for the day, mag-ni-tu-de)
 
Didn't come with a PCV valve. I have had the car for a month now. I'm assuming it gets plugged into the large port on the front? The valve covers have breathers but that's it for ventilation.
 
PCV goes in the front port, booster in the back you might have a plug in there for non pb cars.
 
I put the carb back together.
Hand rotated the engine till the timing mark was at 0.
Opened the distro cap.
Verified the rotor was pointing at #1 plug wire.
Checked for spark at the coil.
Checked for spark at #1. Forgot I also had the nearby plug off. I definitely have spark! Ouch
Put the plugs back in and decided to crank it.
It started, ran for a few minutes then died. Couldn't get it back.
Looked at the engine, realized that I forgot to put the gas line back on the carb.

Im going to give it a few min before I try again. Crossing my fingers.
 
WSUTARD said:
I put the carb back together.
Hand rotated the engine till the timing mark was at 0.
Opened the distro cap.
Verified the rotor was pointing at #1 plug wire.
Checked for spark at the coil.
Checked for spark at #1. Forgot I also had the nearby plug off. I definitely have spark! Ouch
Put the plugs back in and decided to crank it.
It started, ran for a few minutes then died. Couldn't get it back.
Looked at the engine, realized that I forgot to put the gas line back on the carb.

Im going to give it a few min before I try again. Crossing my fingers.
Click to expand...
awesome!! you got this! ~and it got you~ LOL :lol: can we start calling you sparky? :rofl:
 
Ha. Yeah, gave me a good jump. My wife said she thought I cut my finger off from the look on my face.

Well, it starts now. But runs like poop. Barely idles around 300. Takes a long time to fire up.

Going to check the plug wires, again, when the exhaust cools down a tad.
 
turn the front of the distributor toward the drivers side to advance the timing - do you have a timing light?
 
curious to know what everyone uses the loosen the distributor hold down bolt? It's a tight fit for a 1/4 drive 1/2 socket on swivel knuckle and a really long extension.
 
WSUTARD said:
curious to know what everyone uses the loosen the distributor hold down bolt? It's a tight fit for a 1/4 drive 1/2 socket on swivel knuckle and a really long extension.
Click to expand...
it's a 1/2 inch - pecker to get at - but it can be done with a standard box wrench
 
ScampMike said:
LOL - so do you know what initial timing should be?
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Timing was 10 before I stared this journey.

Although, it doesn't matter. Turns out I didn't put enough Right Stuff on the back seal. Crap just pouring out of the back and dripping on the headers....even worse than before. You can see it at the brass plug.

I can't do this again, going to take it to the shop and have them fix it.
image.jpeg
 
that bites there sparky - it's gonna run ya several hundy to have someone else do it - I know it's not what you WANT to do - but you can
 
WSUTARD said:
Yes.
Click to expand...
WSUTARD said:
Timing was 10 before I stared this journey.

Although, it doesn't matter. Turns out I didn't put enough Right Stuff on the back seal. Crap just pouring out of the back and dripping on the headers....even worse than before. You can see it at the brass plug.

I can't do this again, going to take it to the shop and have them fix it.
View attachment 1714955776
Click to expand...
2nd time will be a piece of cake now that you know.
 
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