**Coil Over Conversion with Stock K**

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Mad Dart,

Thanks for the welding pics on the K-Frame. Couple of questions:

How did you keep the K-Frame from warping when doing the welding?

Or were not worried about warpage?

It appears that you welded some washers around where the strut-rods mount, does this affect the strut rod mounts at all?

It also appears that you welded some additional support where the lower control arm pins go, is this additional material a potential problem?

One last thing, the welds look very nice, high quality, good job.

Thanks,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe Dokes said:
Mad Dart,

Thanks for the welding pics on the K-Frame. Couple of questions:

How did you keep the K-Frame from warping when doing the welding?

Or were not worried about warpage?

It appears that you welded some washers around where the strut-rods mount, does this affect the strut rod mounts at all?

It also appears that you welded some additional support where the lower control arm pins go, is this additional material a potential problem?

One last thing, the welds look very nice, high quality, good job.

Thanks,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

I am using the Adjustable Strut Rods that have the Aluminum Bushings. No it does not affect it this actually strengthens that area.

All I basically did was re weld over the stock welds and add a few more here and there. I always tack the area if it is fresh welding so it does not move and then go after it welding it off. The Skid Plate that goes over the main seam of the K Frame was Tacked and then Welded off first.

The spacers that are welded to the K frame actually give the Lower Control Arm Bushings a smooth surface to ride on, without them the New LCA bushings that come with badart's kit would get wasted in a few miles.

Since the K Frame is welded off from the factory and is not a straight piece of metal or made out of 1 piece, I highly doubt it would move when doing this modification.

Firm Feel sells the same thing I am doing right here for $450.00...........And that is you sending them yours to do the modifications on. No paint or powder coat included........

http://www.firmfeel.com/reinfkfram_a.htm
 
Looks good, I planned to do the same to my K-member, but was concerned about warpage and I've seen some people reinforce the LCA areas but wondered about how this would affect this area.

I've seen Firm Feels web page, I think $450.00 is a bit steep, $300.00 seems a more fair price, that being said, from what I've read regarding Firm Feel's quality and service $450.00 might not be ridiculous.

Thanks for the explanation, helps me plan my welding.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe Dokes said:
Looks good, I planned to do the same to my K-member, but was concerned about warpage and I've seen some people reinforce the LCA areas but wondered about how this would affect this area.

I've seen Firm Feels web page, I think $450.00 is a bit steep, $300.00 seems a more fair price, that being said, from what I've read regarding Firm Feel's quality and service $450.00 might not be ridiculous.

Thanks for the explanation, helps me plan my welding.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

Shipping would be the deal breaker. If someone has the skillzzzzz to pull out a K Member and ship it out for this modification, they more than likely have the skillzzzzz to weld it up themselves or know someone who can. This modification is time consuming but very easy to do once the K is on the welding bench.
 
Thats some badass cage! Man,I think your planning on going REAL FAST. 8 sec range?
 
needsaresto said:
Thats some badass cage! Man,I think your planning on going REAL FAST. 8 sec range?
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The cage will be certed to 8.50. There is a guy I know with a SBC and the same Turbo's I am using on e85 that is running 7.90ish and his car weighs about the same as mine. Mine will have a Street Tune up with 91 Octane most of the time. I should be able to drive it to the track and bust out at least a 9 sec pass and drive it home when I am done. That is the plan anyway's.

I tell you what.... It is not even welded off yet and it has already stiffened the car big time. It will sit on 3 jack stands easily without moving. With the New Radiator Support, Subframe Connectors and the Torque Boxes I added Front and Rear to the car along with the Cage & the Reinforced K Frame it should be pretty stiff when it is all done.
 
If I put a cage in for a 10second car, do I have to have it certified? Because I was going to have a friend weld it...
 
Fst73_360 said:
If I put a cage in for a 10second car, do I have to have it certified? Because I was going to have a friend weld it...
Click to expand...

with nhra ..a cage needs to be certified if the car is quicker then 9.99 or faster then 135 mph.....
along with a competition licenses, pants, jacket..neck brack...and a bunch of other items required once you go faster then 9.99 or 135mph
 
70aarcuda said:
with nhra ..a cage needs to be certified if the car is quicker then 9.99 or faster then 135 mph.....
along with a competition licenses, pants, jacket..neck brack...and a bunch of other items required once you go faster then 9.99 or 135mph
Click to expand...

A Doctors Clearance is 1 of the other items. Full Physical etc.
 
Mad Dart said:
Never noticed until you just pointed it out. I don't know but the Roll Cage was fabricated here in the USA!! :D
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When I order DOM I have to request made in the USA or I get whatever they send me. I have used both and can't tell any difference in quality really.
 
Lookin good man. The DOM from India is actually really nice tubing. Its pretty difficult to find Made in USA stuff actually(sad I know). I strive to use all USA made stuff but its not always possible. The "made in India" stuff with the light grey coloring is made by Toyota actually. They have a mill in India which is where this is manufactured. Japanese are known for good stuff, and the tubing seems to be along those same lines. Keep up the good work.
 
Cant argue with Japanese quality.At least it's NOT CHINESE,lol...
 
Badart said:
When I order DOM I have to request made in the USA or I get whatever they send me. I have used both and can't tell any difference in quality really.
Click to expand...

That is good to know. In this scenario, my buddy Pete picked up the tubing from a local metal yard that had it in stock.

The tubing seems to be of really good quality like others have said.
 
curleysracecars said:
Lookin good man. The DOM from India is actually really nice tubing. Its pretty difficult to find Made in USA stuff actually(sad I know). I strive to use all USA made stuff but its not always possible. The "made in India" stuff with the light grey coloring is made by Toyota actually. They have a mill in India which is where this is manufactured. Japanese are known for good stuff, and the tubing seems to be along those same lines. Keep up the good work.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kyle. I was going to look at other avenues to get this cage finished cause Pete was real busy. Out of the blue he called me Tuesday night this last week and said he would be at my house in the morning, 2 1/2 Days later it is pretty much all in accept a few things that I can get myself. It is a nice pace to actually get something done on the car that was started over 1 Year ago. I am really happy with how it is turning out.
 
fstfish66 said:


BIG DADDY don garlits recently had a stroke,,,then a month or so later went racing at the gator nationals in his 2011 drag pak challenger,,,,
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I hear you. Everybody knows somebody right? All my friends go see the same Physician when getting their license & all have passed the physical part of the licensing process. Most of them are in not so good health themselves.
 
Here is my Idler Arm Conversion. This is a 67 6 Cylinder K Frame that I modified to go with my Twin Turbo V8 Build so there was no going back and getting a Newer K Frame. In the process I found out the the 67 Idler Arm is a 1 Year Deal and $$$ boookoooo expensive $$$ so I converted all the steering over to 73 & Up.

I got New Lower ball Joints, Idler & Pitman Arm for $106.00. That is about 1/3 the cost of a NEW 67 Idler Arm........ I will be getting some Firm Feel 11/16 Solid Sleeve Tie Rod Ends also.

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OK MD its now official you are as big a glutton for punishment as I am. Nice work by the way.
I am struggling with the very thing you are working on. I want all the benefits of an AlterK without the $5000 price tag.
Andrew
 
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