Comp cams xe268h for 318

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If it hasn't been said, it should have been.
You're doing it backwards in the most cost in-efficient way !
Put gears in first, they'll put a grin on your face, and you may be so happy with the increased performance, you may not wish to change the cam.
If you do the cam first, you won't get the grin, nor the kick in the *** feel the gears will, and you'll likely be dissappointed .
PS.. 3:23 - 3:55 would be my choice, depending on hi-way use.
Yes I agree with you but the car is not running it has no cam at all. So spending money changing the gear isn't gonna put a smile on my face it's just gonna delay the process of building the engine. Unless I use the summit cam. I could spend the money on milling my heads to get my cr up to 9 then use the summit cam then I would have a drivable car until I save up for the gears.
 
Yes I agree with you but the car is not running it has no cam at all. So spending money changing the gear isn't gonna put a smile on my face it's just gonna delay the process of building the engine. Unless I use the summit cam. I could spend the money on milling my heads to get my cr up to 9 then use the summit cam then I would have a drivable car until I save up for the gears.
To be more clear I have 300 bucks to spend I can either do the gears and use the summit cam I already have it buy and "better cam" and keep the gears cant do both.
 
Actually, I've had the opportunity to refresh some of the engines I built years/decades ago.
I will never use Comp stuff again.
Ok thanks may I ask why? What was the issue? Quality or performance or both?
 
Well I put a ridiculous cam in a 318 and I put dual quads on a 318 and I put 360 heads on a 318 and everybody said I was crazy and everybody said I was nuts and blah blah blah you got to do what you want to do and not listen to everybody's big numbers and suggestions. Get that damn thing running and put a smile on your face. And when you got money put some damn gears in that it'll be a lot of fun. and then when you got some money build a real motor for it to have a lot fun.
Don't get caught up in the hype and don't get caught up and all the BS just have fun with it it's your fun project you don't need it to get to work.
 
Ok thanks may I ask why? What was the issue? Quality or performance or both?

Cracked
and broken retainers, the failed retainers allowed the keepers to work on the valves, reducing the ridges to the verge of catastrophic failure.
Broken inner springs, worn lobes, lifters, rockers, shafts, needle brgs.
Some engines had similar issues, others unique.
Changed brands, hoping for better results.
So far, so good.
 
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Actually, I've had the opportunity to refresh some of the engines I built years/decades ago.
I will never use Comp stuff again.

Apologies for the thread derail.

Regarding Comp stuff, why is that? Hardening? Ground for smaller tappets? Poor quality control? Poor customer service? I am not trying to be a smart ***, I'd just like to know because I am considering one of the following cams for a 1991 hydraulic roller LA360 build I am working on, shooting for a 9.5:1 compression with machining block and possibly the heads, pistons, and gaskets.

Lunati 20200712
Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chrysler 273-360 282/290 - Lunati Power
Requires 2800 stall
This will most likely require a new torque converter, as my current TC is a 2400 stall

XR274HR-10
20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2000 stall, and I can get away with a 9:1 compression
I can keep my current 2400 TC

XR280HR-10
20-812-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2500 stall
Maybe I can squeak by with my current TC 2400 stall.

As it stands with the above three, I am kinda leaning towards the Lunati, and will eat a lot of Ramen, peanutbutter and oatmeal and spend that few hundred grocery bucks on a new TC.

I know I will have to go with new springs no matter what I get, even if I decide to just go with a mechanical flat tappet which I would actually prefer, since I really dislike the large mass hydraulic roller lifters when compared to mechanicals, which require lighter springs. (It looks like I'm going to want to talk to AJ about some math regarding speeds, gearing, tire size, HP, and rpm at the traps, and I've been procrastinating on that, heh).
 
Well I put a ridiculous cam in a 318 and I put dual quads on a 318 and I put 360 heads on a 318 and everybody said I was crazy and everybody said I was nuts and blah blah blah you got to do what you want to do and not listen to everybody's big numbers and suggestions. Get that damn thing running and put a smile on your face. And when you got money put some damn gears in that it'll be a lot of fun. and then when you got some money build a real motor for it to have a lot fun.
Don't get caught up in the hype and don't get caught up and all the BS just have fun with it it's your fun project you don't need it to get to work.
Thanks bud I appreciate the support. Yea I just gotta build the damn thing. I was setting thinking and considering everyone's response and believe me I appreciate all of y'alls opinions and take them all seriously I really do. But I was thinking you know alot of you guys are racers and have high performance cars and your expectations and definition of performance is alot higher than mine so what most would call a turd is a fun driver for me iv drove bone stock 2bbl 318s and 5.2 magnum for the last 18 years anything above that is gonna be an upgrade for me. So if get 250 hp I'm gonna be thrilled but to most it's just a slow bogged down 4bbl 318. So perception is relative. Thank you all so much let's keep this thread going I'm learning alot here one thing I'm am considering and like to get your opinion on is milling my 318 around. 040 to get my compression back up to 9:1 whats your opinion jpar?
How much does it normally cost to mill a set .02-.04?
 
Cracked
and broken retainers, the failed retainers allowed the keepers to work on the valves, reducing the ridges to the verge of catastrophic failure.
Broken inner springs, worn lobes, lifters, rockers.
Some engines had similar issues, others unique.
Changed brands, hoping for better results.
So far, so good.
What kind of mileage and what kind of abuse? Just to be clear I'm not trying to disagree I'm just asking for information sakes.
 
Thanks bud I appreciate the support. Yea I just gotta build the damn thing. I was setting thinking and considering everyone's response and believe me I appreciate all of y'alls opinions and take them all seriously I really do. But I was thinking you know alot of you guys are racers and have high performance cars and your expectations and definition of performance is alot higher than mine so what most would call a turd is a fun driver for me iv drove bone stock 2bbl 318s and 5.2 magnum for the last 18 years anything above that is gonna be an upgrade for me. So if get 250 hp I'm gonna be thrilled but to most it's just a slow bogged down 4bbl 318. So perception is relative. Thank you all so much let's keep this thread going I'm learning alot here one thing I'm am considering and like to get your opinion on is milling my 318 around. 040 to get my compression back up to 9:1 whats your opinion jpar?
How much does it normally cost to mill a set .02-.04?
We just don't want you to make some of the same mistakes many of us have made with the same combination. Don't over build it unless you are prepared to put all the pieces together to make it work well. Please read and heed my last sentence.
 
Apologies for the thread derail.

Regarding Comp stuff, why is that? Hardening? Ground for smaller tappets? Poor quality control? Poor customer service? I am not trying to be a smart ***, I'd just like to know because I am considering one of the following cams for a 1991 hydraulic roller LA360 build I am working on, shooting for a 9.5:1 compression with machining block and possibly the heads, pistons, and gaskets.

Lunati 20200712
Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chrysler 273-360 282/290 - Lunati Power
Requires 2800 stall
This will most likely require a new torque converter, as my current TC is a 2400 stall

XR274HR-10
20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2000 stall, and I can get away with a 9:1 compression
I can keep my current 2400 TC

XR280HR-10
20-812-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2500 stall
Maybe I can squeak by with my current TC 2400 stall.

As it stands with the above three, I am kinda leaning towards the Lunati, and will eat a lot of Ramen, peanutbutter and oatmeal and spend that few hundred grocery bucks on a new TC.

I know I will have to go with new springs no matter what I get, even if I decide to just go with a mechanical flat tappet which I would actually prefer, since I really dislike the large mass hydraulic roller lifters when compared to mechanicals, which require lighter springs. (It looks like I'm going to want to talk to AJ about some math regarding speeds, gearing, tire size, HP, and rpm at the traps, and I've been procrastinating on that, heh).
No apology needed I'm wondering the same thing!! We both want to know! I'm just curious if the failure was abuse related or maybe the wrong springs or bad combo or if it was truly faulty equipment. Race engines take alot of abuse and I'm sure moving parts of any brand wont last forever in a race engines
 
We just don't want you to make some of the same mistakes many of us have made with the same combination. Don't over build it unless you are prepared to put all the pieces together to make it work well. Please read and heed my last sentence.
By overbuilding are you referring to too large of a cam?
 
Difficult to say, many engines over many yrs , all with diff mikegaes
Oh ok I follow you. I thought it was just one engine you had multiple problems with. I follow you now. In my case it is fairly low performance compared to what most ppl here have lol
 
If it was mine, I would put it all back together as a stocker .
First; put a stinking 2800TC in her. That is step #1. That will pump something like 60/80ftlbs more into the tires,on the start line and for quite a ways out; and no cam on your list is gonna touch that.All the other changes together will not touch that. It takes supercharging to touch that increase on the start-line.
Next is gears: and 3.55s over 2.76s will multiply your starting-line torque by another 28.6%, so now plus maybe 100ftlbs into the tires, getting close to plus 60%, over what you currently have.And with just two simple changes.
Third is the 4bbl carb, which adds nothing on the start-line with 2.76s and the factory 1800ish TC, but together with the first two, and the plus 28.6% TM, now that she can break traction, it will.

Oh wait, I already did that, with fantastic results.

The cam with no compression increase,just shifts the power to a new higher rpm, usually with a loss at the bottom. And the bigger the disparity between advertised and the .050spec, the worse it gets. That would be dead last on my to-do list. But with the 2800 already in there,now, the bottom-end is no longer an issue.
If I still had the desire to upcam (which I didn't), I would get me a fast rate of lift hydraulic lifter cam/kit,anti-pump-ups, plenty of lift, and on a 108 or less LSA. Say about 228@.050. Then I would pump up the compression ratio as high as I dare, to run 87/91 gas, on whatever the advertised spec dictated.
That's how I would do it.
This way, every change brings instant performance increases, and sets the combo up for the next change.
>One thing I can guarantee you is that slamming a cam in there with no other changes, is not gonna make you smile,until the Rs are well past 3000 rpm, probably closer to 3800. And with 2.76s that will be around 38mph. Been there/done that. Too.
>Another thing I can guarantee you with the factory compression ratio,is that with a 1800TC and 2.76s, a 268/110 cam will make a dog combo.This is because the dynamic CR will be miserably low, and therefore make pathetic cylinder pressure; Probably under 120psi.
>And a third is that a 262/114 will also be a dog combo,because it will have almost the exact same ICA, and therefore the same miserable 120 psi; which is DOWN !, from the 130 it might be making now; so of course it will be less powerful at low rpm. AND, the 4bbl will do nothing at zero mph to alleviate this:zippo, nada, nyet, nuusct. Oh wait, if you have a TQ or a QJ, those carbs will make a great moaning sound if you loosen up the secondary air door, but you will have to wait for the engine to recover from the bog. But at least the moan will give you the impression of power,lol.
Anyway; there's my 2 cents.
I've tuned a lotta teeners in my years, and the best results are always in the above order.
Well; there was this one hi-compression/small cam/2bbl, combo,that worked pretty good with a 2400TC , 3.23s,and an A904 trans . Oh wait; that was a 4.04 bore,lol, one of my all-time favorites.
 
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So with the summit cam I have now a 2800 stall will be an improvement?
 
Member Cannucky handed me a Comp cam with worn lobe, and matching lifters from one of his engines.
And his stroker engine was one of the ones with worn keepers ready to drop a valve. That engine had been professionally built.
 
Thanks bud I appreciate the support. Yea I just gotta build the damn thing. I was setting thinking and considering everyone's response and believe me I appreciate all of y'alls opinions and take them all seriously I really do. But I was thinking you know alot of you guys are racers and have high performance cars and your expectations and definition of performance is alot higher than mine so what most would call a turd is a fun driver for me iv drove bone stock 2bbl 318s and 5.2 magnum for the last 18 years anything above that is gonna be an upgrade for me. So if get 250 hp I'm gonna be thrilled but to most it's just a slow bogged down 4bbl 318. So perception is relative. Thank you all so much let's keep this thread going I'm learning alot here one thing I'm am considering and like to get your opinion on is milling my 318 around. 040 to get my compression back up to 9:1 whats your opinion jpar?
How much does it normally cost to mill a set .02-.04?
so here's the thing kind of with those gears you're going to have basically a turd off the line no matter what happens. So then you get into the flow and that's about the only thing you can do and just wrap damn thing out and that's where the big cam and the kick really comes in towards the high-end it's never going to be down low for the street pounding burn offs like my Stroker unless you get gears.
so you can try and get some compression and try and use a torque cam and you still ain't spinning those tires with those gears. It may feel a little pushy, but it's not going to feel up end snappy.
 
I absolutely agree with toolmanmike no doubt about it but also there's something to be gained by some experience especially when using the parts that you already have with the budget you have. There's nobody I think that understands that one more. Sometimes that's how you find out something that nobody's tried works and then again sometimes you get a bunch of well deserved "I told you so's".... LOL
 
Ok thank you that is very helpful that will help norrow it down!! Will a cam 218@50 and smaller still perform the same with lower gears? I have a 8.8 with 3.73 packed away I plan on using later but I want to run my 2.76 for now so I want to choose a cam that will work well with both but most definitely not loose with the 3.73 if that makes sence I'd rather get a cam that will increase performance with a lower gear than loose since that is gonna be my permanent gear eventually.
Here's your answer on a low budget. You will install the rear end eventually. Why not now? A teen with a 3:73 willburn tires for a city block. You might not get 20mpg/Hwy so don't expect that. There is no magic bullet here.
 
realistically though a $300 budget is just going to get the cam that he has in there the oil change the brake in and oil change the gaskets that go bad the gasket sealant the alternator that subsequently goes bad along with the ballast resistor! damn it!! and the whole $300 budget was gone long time ago...
 
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