Per post #3;"Right I know you can get bad new parts,it's happened to me before. But even without a gauge if I can't get enough heat to run the heater ??? I will check the water temp with a meat thermometer. I did check the t-stat in water on the stove this morning, it started opening at 185 and was fully open at 210.
I'm waiting a bit to reinstall it for advice here, after that I can put it back in and check the temp in the radiator."
Ok, let's say the stat is working correctly. During the warm-up period the water is going around and around inside the engine, going through the bypass, and if the heatercore is open it will be going through there too. This will continue until the water gets hot enough to open the stat. Then the hot water passes through and you know the rest. But if the water never gets hot enough to open the stat, then why is that?
There can only be a few reasons; 1) the engine is air cooling, or 2) the engine is fuel cooling, or 3) the engine is putting all the heat into the exhaust.So;
#1 are you running a 7-blade direct drive fan. That beast will blow a lot of cold air over the engine.
#2 are you running excessively rich? Fuel will really suck the heat out. And #3; how much initial timing are you running and how fast does it ramp up? A lot of timing makes the engine pretty good at burning gas, and all the energy goes into propelling the vehicle. Sometimes the correct amount of timing turns out to be too good. If the vacuum advance is kicking in real early, you may be running 40 to 50 degrees at cruising speed, which the engine will like, and wants. So;
#3 if the first 2 possibilities are dead ends, then perhaps cranking the timing back to something like 12 degrees, may help.
#1 is easy to prove, just swap out the fan for a smaller 4-blade fan and roadtest. If you don't have one, you can put cardboard in front of the rad, or just take the fan off all together, but keep one eye on the gauge!
#2 is also easy to prove. Make sure the choke(if you have one) is coming off fast. At 47*F, 2 or 3 minutes ought to be enough.Unless you have an AirGap,cuz they are a little cold-blooded. Then there's the low-speed circuit. Some people might miss the fact that this circuit is actually in three parts; there is the mixture screws that you mess with. And there is the transfers which are somewhat more difficult to tune. And then there is the fuel level. Start with the fuel level; make sure it is correct and stable.I don't recommend to fiddle with the transfer circuit. That leaves the mixture screws. Here's the deal with those; if your initial timing is wrong, Or if the T-port sync is out, Or if the idle speed is too high then, So is the mixture screw setting! These three are intimately related.And they take us straight into #3. And since the carb will spend a very large part of it's life operating on this/these circuits it's pretty important to get this worked out.When you get it right, ( I'm not saying it isn't right already), but when it's right, the carb will be a dream to drive.
There is another wild card; Humidity. When the humidity gets high, the air is laden with moisture. This moisture,when it passes through the engine will suck a lot of heat with it, and you can see it coming out the tailpipe as water and steam. It will also attach itself to the outside of the engine and suck more heat out.And if you have that big direct drive fan on there,wowsers! It can get so bad that it will form ice in the intake and in the venturies.
Happy hunting, and, All the best to you.
