being that this is your first car and most likely your new to the hobby i would suggest swapping in a small block v8. a 318 or a 360 can be had for less than $500. It is a very straight forward swap and will most definitely give you the sound and power your looking for. I would keep it all as simple as possible.
As much as I love turbos on slant sixes, for a first car effort, I have to agree that dropping a 360 in this car is probably the best idea for someone who doesn't have a lot of emechanical experience.
If he could be happy with a 14-second car, he could keep the engine he has and go the conventional, normally-aspirated hop-up route by adding a cam, headers, maybe a 500cfm Holley 2-barrel carb on a Super Six manifold, and adding an 8.75" rear end for an easy swap to some 3.90 or 4.10:1 gears.
I think along with a .100" head mill, that would drop that car into the 14's and you can have a lot of fun with a 14-second car...
Turbos are the way to go a lot faster, but they just require too much in the way of experience and know-how for a first-time effort.
At that point, I think there's simply too much to learn...
If there was a bolt-on turbo "KIT" it might be feasible, but there's not; you have to make everything...
My 2-cents...
Don't mill the head mill the block. It provides better quench. If you ever need another block, people give slants away for free.I think along with a .100" head mill
$500being that this is your first car and most likely your new to the hobby i would suggest swapping in a small block v8. a 318 or a 360 can be had for less than $500. It is a very straight forward swap and will most definitely give you the sound and power your looking for. I would keep it all as simple as possible.
$500
For an sbm is apealing. Then you need a different tranny, different k-member, throttle cables and kickdown linkages and bigger torsion bars yadda yadda yadda....
Point taken. The only real "arguement" I have to this disscussion is that I wouldn' pay money fo a slant and slant trans unless it was just recently rebuilt.you can get a trans for a couple hundred bucks. you could sell the running slant and trans for 100-200. you dont need a k-member. they make mounts. throttle cable will still work. kick down linkage can be found at most wrecking yards. most times the engine will come with it. slant and small block are nearly same weight. you can upgrade tortion bars if you want but not mandatory. I know everyone is gonna jump on me for that but guys run big blocks with slant bars and it handles like a shopping cart but they handle like **** to begin with.
Agreed. I dunno about cheaper, I tend to think it averages out. But yes either way it will take money, work and research.I think either way you go its going to cost money and your gonna have to roll your sleeves up. You can go alot faster, alot cheaper with a v8 swap. hell even a stock bottom end 318 with a cam and bolts on can run pretty good for very little money.
Don't mill the head mill the block. It provides better quench. If you ever need another block, people give slants away for free.
i wonder how much nitrous a slant could take?
I have run over 400 lbs of nitrous through a 170 slant six at 150 hp with no problems. At 175 shot, I have hurt some parts.
The first time I seen the cuda, you were thrashing that 7.25 pretty good! And it took it!!
How about this, you probably didn't even know they existed. I have a "A" body 7 1/4 rear with a 5.13 sure grip. Also have parts to assemble a 4.56 SG 7 1/4. Direct Connection had these parts available in the "old days", for stock eliminator, when you had to have the "correct" rear in the car. Gears available were 3.91 (could be ordered with the car), 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13 (these only DC parts).
I just got a 1974 dodge dart sport with a 225 /6 for my first car and i want to know what i need to do to get more power and a better sound out of it. thanks.