Desktop Computers

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66fs said:
That is why you have an anti virus like Avast. I don't intend to replace my desktop computer when 10 support goes away.
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I'm not sure that's enough, idk it may work updates also fixes newly found vulnerabilities.

My music recording computer could use updating anyways, their just forcing my hand.
 
273 said:
I'm not sure that's enough, idk it may work updates also fixes newly found vulnerabilities.

My music recording computer could use updating anyways, their just forcing my hand.
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If it is not enough then I will let it go and get an ebay desktop that will handle stinking windows 11, but I won't like it ;-) I can get them for 1-2 hundred. So far Avast seems better than Windows ever was plus I have driver update and clean up. If I feel Windows want to force me into a computer upgrade, I can really dig my heels in. I won't even let them upgrade my wife's laptop to 11.
 
66fs said:
If it is not enough then I will let it go and get an ebay desktop that will handle stinking windows 11, but I won't like it ;-) I can get them for 1-2 hundred. So far Avast seems better than Windows ever was plus I have driver update and clean up. If I feel Windows want to force me into a computer upgrade, I can really dig my heels in. I won't even let them upgrade my wife's laptop to 11.
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There's always Linux.
 
When the dyno computer took a dump last year I bought a refurb from Walmart.

Ordered it on line and a few days later it was at the door.

It’s worked flawlessly for a year with one massive exception and it pisses me off to know end.

It came with windows 11. If you are a computer nerd (unlike me who is not a computer nerd) windows 11 is a giant pain in the ***.

Because windows is constantly under attack by hackers and **** like that, windows will “update” your computer like magic.

And when it does, it will line clockwork change two or three settings in the dyno software. Sure does. Every effing time.

And when it does, I have to go back into the dyno software and unscrew whatever the update screwed up.

One time it turned off the O2 sensors. Took a bit to figure that one out. One time it turned off the the tach signal. That was a 4 hour unscrewfest.

I never have issues like that with Mac stuff. But Microsoft has cornered the market and guys don’t write software in anything but windows.

That’s a crying shame.

Oh, here’s the kick in the balls. You can NOT turn off automatic updates with windows 11. You don’t even have the option to turn off updates any more.

So you just put up with **** like that.

If you go on the Walmart website you can find inexpensive refurbished towers for not much money.

I don’t game. It’s a tool. I buy the most RAM I can get. And the most storage space.

Other than that I want it simple.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
When the dyno computer took a dump last year I bought a refurb from Walmart.

Ordered it on line and a few days later it was at the door.

It’s worked flawlessly for a year with one massive exception and it pisses me off to know end.

It came with windows 11. If you are a computer nerd (unlike me who is not a computer nerd) windows 11 is a giant pain in the ***.

Because windows is constantly under attack by hackers and **** like that, windows will “update” your computer like magic.

And when it does, it will line clockwork change two or three settings in the dyno software. Sure does. Every effing time.

And when it does, I have to go back into the dyno software and unscrew whatever the update screwed up.

One time it turned off the O2 sensors. Took a bit to figure that one out. One time it turned off the the tach signal. That was a 4 hour unscrewfest.

I never have issues like that with Mac stuff. But Microsoft has cornered the market and guys don’t write software in anything but windows.

That’s a crying shame.

Oh, here’s the kick in the balls. You can NOT turn off automatic updates with windows 11. You don’t even have the option to turn off updates any more.

So you just put up with **** like that.

If you go on the Walmart website you can find inexpensive refurbished towers for not much money.

I don’t game. It’s a tool. I buy the most RAM I can get. And the most storage space.

Other than that I want it simple.
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I have ZERO issues like that with Chrome, yet people keep saying windows windows windows. ummmmm......NO
 
Between this thread and the laptop thread, it convinced me to replace my 14 year old desktop with something a little better. I picked up a barebones kit from Microcenter for a reasonable price.

AMD Ryzen 5 7600X
Asus Motherboard
32GB DDR5 6000 Ram
1TB M2 Hard Drive
750 watt power supply

All for $469.

It'll fit inside of my current case, so I saved a few bucks there.

It has onboard video with the processor handling those duties. Eventually I'll grab a standalone video card for it, but this won't be a gaming rig, just a general use PC, so I'm not in a big hurry and will wait till something is on sale.
 
So what's the difference in USD and SSD and is one "better" or more reliable than the other?
 
I'm not sure what a USD is, but SSD is a solid state drive, there are no moveable parts inside. It can read/write faster than a normal drive and should last longer.
 
If it's ssd vs nvme, nvme is faster but ssd plenty fast enough for most.

If they are talking USB storage then it's probably somekind of portable storage but still need a ssd and or nvme main drive.
 
My son says USD is similar to a flash drive for a hard drive.

Also, true to form, my larger HP Chromebook now has a display issue since I bragged on it. LOL The bottom third of the screen is covered with blue lines. I can see through them and the machine still works, but the blue lines are there on the bottom third of the screen. Is it possible a loose connection is causing this? And it doesn't stop there. I have a smaller one. It's a 10". The larger one a 14". I booted the small one up and it acted fine. But then I remembered why I stopped using it when it started acting up. The display will go black if I move the monitor lid "just right" or sometimes if I type rather hard......which is easy for me to do because I have mafungo caveman hands. Now THAT sounds like a loose connection. Could it be something that simple? Leave it to me to have both machines where they are acting up. My birthday is on the 8th next month so I may just get something cheap from WalMart, but it WILL be chrome OS, whatever it is. Any help is appreciated.
 
RustyRatRod said:
My son says USD is similar to a flash drive for a hard drive.

Also, true to form, my larger HP Chromebook now has a display issue since I bragged on it. LOL The bottom third of the screen is covered with blue lines. I can see through them and the machine still works, but the blue lines are there on the bottom third of the screen. Is it possible a loose connection is causing this? And it doesn't stop there. I have a smaller one. It's a 10". The larger one a 14". I booted the small one up and it acted fine. But then I remembered why I stopped using it when it started acting up. The display will go black if I move the monitor lid "just right" or sometimes if I type rather hard......which is easy for me to do because I have mafungo caveman hands. Now THAT sounds like a loose connection. Could it be something that simple? Leave it to me to have both machines where they are acting up. My birthday is on the 8th next month so I may just get something cheap from WalMart, but it WILL be chrome OS, whatever it is. Any help is appreciated.
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It's definitely a loose connection, usually near the hinge. Try pivoting the hinge a bit or squeezing the screen or base near the hinge and I bet it comes and goes. I had an old toshiba laptop do the same thing.

If you like Chrome but want a desktop, search for "chromebox" and take a look. Typically you will only get the 'box' and will have to add your own mouse/keyboard/monitor. Buy those used and you should be golden. The hardest part will be making sure the monitor has the correct connection or cable to connect to the box. HDMI, mini HDMI or micro HDMI are pretty popular these days but if the monitor only supports displayport or VGA or some other legacy connection then you'll need to adapt somehow. Adapters can often cause issues with supporting the proper resolutions and stuff, but it is usually fairly easy to find something cheapish that has modern connections.
 
Phreakish said:
It's definitely a loose connection, usually near the hinge. Try pivoting the hinge a bit or squeezing the screen or base near the hinge and I bet it comes and goes. I had an old toshiba laptop do the same thing.

If you like Chrome but want a desktop, search for "chromebox" and take a look. Typically you will only get the 'box' and will have to add your own mouse/keyboard/monitor. Buy those used and you should be golden. The hardest part will be making sure the monitor has the correct connection or cable to connect to the box. HDMI, mini HDMI or micro HDMI are pretty popular these days but if the monitor only supports displayport or VGA or some other legacy connection then you'll need to adapt somehow. Adapters can often cause issues with supporting the proper resolutions and stuff, but it is usually fairly easy to find something cheapish that has modern connections.
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You can use a HD TV for a monitor also.
 
66fs said:
You can use a HD TV for a monitor also.
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Very true. I used a TV as a monitor for a busted laptop for years. HDMI cord and a wireless keyboard/mouse (I use and highly recommend the logitech K710/M705 combo - affordable and fairly durable).
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have ZERO issues like that with Chrome, yet people keep saying windows windows windows. ummmmm......NO
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Just remember that chrome and chromium is part of the Google multimetroplex. "Skynet" etc. Android was not created by Google, but bought by them soon after

wisdateline.org

Google Chrome is Spying on You - International Dateline

Yes, you read that right: Chrome should be listed as spyware. Spyware is software that is designed to spy on you and steal your data. Google and Microsoft
wisdateline.org

 
RustyRatRod said:
So, not wanting to totally derail @Kern Dog's thread, I thought I'd start my own. I've been thinking about getting a desktop computer for several reasons. As kinda a "base" for my pictures and stuff. Maybe a dyno sim program and possibly an OBD diagnostic tool. I don't need something with large by huge memory and speed, like a gamer unit, although I don't want something slow, either. I'd like something with a solid state drive and cd drive. Beyond that, I get kinda lost in all the specs. And of course, as always, it needs to be fairly affordable. 300 or less would be good. I have a birthday on the 8th, so that's why I'm thinkin about it. I really like the Chrome OS.....and that will likely cut out the dyno sim program, the cd drive and maybe even the OBD program......but that's ok if that's how it has to be, because I like the Chrome OS that much. I don't want Linux or Winhosed, so no need in recommending that. So what do some of you computer guys think? Thank you I use a computer all bloody day long for my work, I’m a self employed trade show designer. I have always bought used workstations. There are plenty of vendors on eBay who take “old” pcs from offices, wipe them and then spec them with an option list. Chrome has been around long enough that you should be able to find some used reasonable spec laptops.
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RustyRatRod said:
So, not wanting to totally derail @Kern Dog's thread, I thought I'd start my own. I've been thinking about getting a desktop computer for several reasons. As kinda a "base" for my pictures and stuff. Maybe a dyno sim program and possibly an OBD diagnostic tool. I don't need something with large by huge memory and speed, like a gamer unit, although I don't want something slow, either. I'd like something with a solid state drive and cd drive. Beyond that, I get kinda lost in all the specs. And of course, as always, it needs to be fairly affordable. 300 or less would be good. I have a birthday on the 8th, so that's why I'm thinkin about it. I really like the Chrome OS.....and that will likely cut out the dyno sim program, the cd drive and maybe even the OBD program......but that's ok if that's how it has to be, because I like the Chrome OS that much. I don't want Linux or Winhosed, so no need in recommending that. So what do some of you computer guys think? Thank you drive through.
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Have a look on the bay of thieves for companies that resell refurbished workstations, I need a powerful pc for my work, I’m a self employed trade show designer. I have always bought reconditioned workstations as for the price of a new adequate no name box you get an enterprise quality purpose built machine from HP, Dell, Lenovo etc with better cooling, motherboard, etc as far as Chrome as the OS most vendors will offer options on their refurbed machines, so if you request that they should be able to install it for you, the same goes for an SSD drive etc.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So what does it mean when support stops? The machine stops working?
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You can keep using the machine for as long as it physically keeps going, but increasingly (and some would say cynically) 3rd party software and hardware vendors will not write/ manufacture their products to work with your machine. I’ve got a 18 year old Mac book (not that I’d ever give them my money now) it runs fine but literally none of my software that I own will work on it.
 
Well, I found a Chromebook that was on sale at WalMart. 58 bucks delivered. I read every letter in the ad I could find and it did not say new, refurbished or used, but I took a chance as it came with a one year warranty. I am on it now and so far it has worked great.
 
I only use a desk top computer.
The one I am on now is a Dell with windows 10 and it has worked flawlessly since I got it about 5 years ago.
I use Chrome as my browser, and just have updates and virus control through the factory Microsoft system as installed.
It was a refurbished tower that I bought from New Egg.
Overall, I am happy with it and hasn't given me any problems.
I spent about 400 bucks for it and would buy from them again.
 
Mine is kind of a special use case since I got mine for gaming. But like the other have said, 1 TB storage, 16 GB ram, and windows 10 is really all you need unless you have special use cases. Most laptops and desktops no longer have cd drives, but you can get external ones that plug into the computer. Funny enough that you are talking about TVs as monitors, my graphics card has 4 outputs, and one of them is my TV. Since most of my ad blocking stuff works the best on my computer I generally watch stuff on my computer and just move the screen over when I want the TV running. Honestly though the Chromebook should get you by for the most part. Most people don't need a stupid overpowered machine like mine (which is actually 7 years old at this point and will still play AAA games mostly fine)
 
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Lauren's server.jpg
 
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