Dougs or TTI Headers?

Dougs or TTIs?

  • Dougs Headers

    Votes: 34 39.5%

  • TTI Headers

    Votes: 52 60.5%
  • Total voters
    86
  • Poll closed .
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Rockerdude

Rockerdude

Rock n' Roll and A-bodies
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When ever I get the money of corse, which ones would you go with?
 
PM daves66valiant. He's the subject matter expert on both sets of headers.
 
What car specifically.

66 and earlier... I have no opinion...
 
JayD

Earlier A bodies are a totally different animal as far as header clearance than the 67-76 cars.
 
crackedback said:
JayD

Earlier A bodies are a totally different animal as far as header clearance than the 67-76 cars.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was my bad - I didn't catch that he had a 65.
I'm sure there are a lot of threads for headers on early A's too.
 
DING DING DING

Well, I've done both installs on a 66 valiant. Plus I've done the Spitfires as well.

Here is my take on TTI:

The Bad
Driver's side is a major pain in the ***. Needs special starter, motor needs to be shimmed (advice get new motor mounts) to get perfect placement of motor on k-frame to thread the torsion bars, steering pot coupler gets cooked if you have power steering so you need a universal joint from Flaming River or such. Price 775 (ceramic coated) + 260 (starter) + 160 (FR coupler) Approx ~$1200 total

The Good.
They look bitchin once they are installed. True stepped header design with 3" collectors. Easy to get to the spark plugs, can remover starter with headers in place, no slip joints, works with power steering and Lakewood bellhousing

My take on Doug's with a 4 speed.

The good:
Very easy to install on the passenger side. Driver side is a pain as well but easier because of the slip joints. Plus you do not have to remove the torsion bars. Regular mini starter. Nice look.

The Bad.
Does not fit a 4-speed car with a 10.5" clutch and bellhousing. You must use the stock early a-body 9.5" clutch and bellhousing. I'm working with Brewer's Performance to make my Doug's work with the later 10.5" bellhousing. Only has 2.5" collector, Slip joints can leak if not sealed good.

Price is now $850 from Summit for the ceramic coated Doug's

I will update my Doug's install once I get them to work with the 10.5" clutch and bellhousing.

Spitfires

They are hands down the easiest. Easier than the stock manifolds to install and remove. They are kinda like a shorty design. You must weld your own collector flanges. Tight fit with the z-bar on 4-speed car. 2.5" collector.

Cost $225 COD. I got mine ceramic coated add $160 Total $385. These might be up for sale if i get the Doug's to work FYI.

Dave
 
stock manifolds, my choice. Are you going to drag race your car, and need the absolute last 12 horsepower, at 4,000 + rpm??

At 1,000 to 3,500 rpm, where 90% of the street driving is done how much torque and hp do headers add?Yea tehy look neat, but to me that is not worth the hassle of using them on most Mopars.{Yes I have owned Mopars with headers}

DSCN2133Medium.JPG


DSCN2084Medium.JPG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
 
cavemanmoron said:
stock manifolds, my choice. Are you going to drag race your car, and need the absolute last 12 horsepower, at 4,000 + rpm??

At 1,000 to 3,500 rpm, where 90% of the street driving is done how much torque and hp do headers add?Yea tehy look neat, but to me that is not worth the hassle of using them on most Mopars.{Yes I have owned Mopars with headers}

DSCN2133Medium.JPG


DSCN2084Medium.JPG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
Click to expand...

Guess your motor doesn't have 415 horsepower either. :bootysha: It's worth the headache when I want to romp on the gas and not be bogged down by cast iron constipated 273 manifolds. It's all a matter of preference when you have more than a mildly built motor. :-D
 
has any one tried the dakota /ram magnum exhaust manifolds on an early A yet???

my opinion,for the street mild or stock motor,,ide go wit hthe spit fires,,

i know on the 67 and up A bodies with a big block headers are the same problem as an early A wit ha small block,,

i know guys that have had long tube headers on a big block A body,,and went to the shorty style schumaker header,,the schmaker header added a ton of low end torque,,better clearnace and easier to install ,,
 
cavemanmoron said:
stock manifolds, my choice. Are you going to drag race your car, and need the absolute last 12 horsepower, at 4,000 + rpm??

At 1,000 to 3,500 rpm, where 90% of the street driving is done how much torque and hp do headers add?Yea tehy look neat, but to me that is not worth the hassle of using them on most Mopars.{Yes I have owned Mopars with headers}

DSCN2133Medium.JPG


DSCN2084Medium.JPG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
Click to expand...
Also,if your running a 360 the 273 manifolds kinda restrict flow.Might aswell put in a 318?I,m going with the Spitfires.Cheaper and workable.
 
has any one tried the dakota /ram magnum exhaust manifolds on an early A yet???
Click to expand...
No, but...the 65 Barracuda I just bought had a 318 in it before with stock manifolds from a 75 Dart. I know because I gave them to him. They are under my workbench again :angry7:. Let me know if you want the numbers off of them.
 
415 hp, 8)
No, I only have a mild 318, I didn't want to take a chance
of breaking the stock push button 904, or the stock sure grip 7.25" rear.

Yep, headers are worth the hard work if you make a lot of power,
especially if your going to drag race;
but for a mild engine, maybe not. :)



daves66valiant said:
Guess your motor doesn't have 415 horsepower either. :bootysha: It's worth the headache when I want to romp on the gas and not be bogged down by cast iron constipated 273 manifolds. It's all a matter of preference when you have more than a mildly built motor. :-D
Click to expand...
 
cavemanmoron said:
415 hp, 8)
No, I only have a mild 318, I didn't want to take a chance
of breaking the stock push button 904, or the stock sure grip 7.25" rear.

Yep, headers are worth the hard work if you make a lot of power,
especially if your going to drag race;
but for a mild engine, maybe not. :)
Click to expand...

Had to give ya a hard time cave. I know your opinion on headers. LOL :-D
 
Thanks. I just need to get online and order up some of those spitfires. For the early A. Anyone have the exact info I need to order those tonight?? Thanks.
 
65barracudadude said:
Thanks. I just need to get online and order up some of those spitfires. For the early A. Anyone have the exact info I need to order those tonight?? Thanks.
Click to expand...

No website or email. Just call him.

Spitfire Headers - Harold Johnson

479-650-9989
 
again i will say i am not happy with the tti's. ports did not match up. off by at least an 1/8th in.+ in all ports. this was on both eddys and j heads.
 
My TTI's fit and matched the ports on the X heads fine. They are a Mother of all Mothers to put in. I installed them while the engine was being set into place since ith was a fresh stroker re-build. And yes you have to have the clock adjust mini starter, take the suspension apart, master off, relocate brake line to rear brakes, E-brake cables modded etc etc. It is not a 6 pack job, more like 2 cases a lot of deep breathes and just go slow.

Looks awesome, sounds great, built great, no leaks etc. Should make very good power, collectors and all pipes they make if you go with the complete kit bolt up perfect, or you can have the pipes back made by a good shop.

Big $$$ too. But built very nice, these early A's just have little to no room is the main issue.

IMG_0662 (Medium).jpg


IMG_1094 (Medium).jpg


IMG_1095 (Medium).jpg
 
I thought the smaller primaries and the 2-1/2" collectors would hurt me at the strip but the Dougs have really suprised me with the performance. I would like to try the ttis for the stepped primaries on my next 360 build.
 
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