Early 273 oil filter canister

[bsimmo360]

Hi. Need some advice on how to best remove the old oil filter canister setup to run a remote oil filter setup. This is an early 273 so does not have the usual filter lines out of the side of the block. Where is best to run oil lines from? Just for appearances if possible. Thanks

 

[JDMopar]

Wow! That just proves you're never too old to learn something. I've been fooling with small block Mopar engines since 1973, and have never seen anything like that! Do you think it might just be an Aussie thing? Would the oil filter in the same location as USA small block Mopars have been in the way of the steering shaft on an Aussie Mopar? As far as ideas to move the filter cannister.....I got nothin!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I know that's right! This is a first for me too. I've never seen one without an oil filter mounting boss on the side of the block. LMAO. You know what I'd do? I'd leave it just like it is. Why do you NEED to change it?

 

[Mattax]

Seen that filter location on RHD models (UK, Aus, South Africa?).

Interesting block! Does the block have the year cast in it ?

Here's one from a UK website - but it looks to have the usual oil taps and presumably filter boss.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

Our very early LA 273’s ran this bypass filter system because yes, the RHD steering box was in the way. I remember playing with one of these in the late 70’s that had come out of a twin engined rail and being a bypass system we ended up doing away with the filter completely and opted to change the oil very frequently!
Later Aus engines run the US style block and a remote line system that places the filter up on top of the intake. Can be messy with filter changes and this is one of the reasons that a lot of us choose to relocate the filter.
Personally, given the lack of oiling port options I think I’d retain this system and bend up some nice neat stainless lines and give the canister a fresh coat of paint. I guess it depends what look the OP is looking for, resto or restomod?

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

That is a first for me also. I'd also like to know the casting date and the casting number on the left side of the block.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

That is a first for me also. I'd also like to know the casting date and the casting number on the left side of the block.

Can’t speak for the OP but these must have been one of the earliest LA’s built as they were first seen in the very first Aus V8 Valiants released in Aug 1965. With shipping times as they were I’d suggest that they may have been a 64 build.

 

[Mattax]

Was the original fuel pump a mechanical one where the block off plate is?
The hollow bolt fuel pump for a return was used on some factory oil coolers.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

Can’t speak for the OP but these must have been one of the earliest LA’s built as they were first seen in the very first Aus V8 Valiants released in Aug 1965. With shipping times as they were I’d suggest that they were a 64 build.

If he would post the casting number, we made be able to research it and get some more info.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

Was the original fuel pump a mechanical one where the block off plate is?
The hollow bolt fuel pump for a return was used on some factory oil coolers.

Yes, mechanical.

 

[toolmanmike]

Yep, I thought I'd seen it all.

 

[bsimmo360]

Yes early aus block to pass steering shafts. Here's some pics of the casting numbers. I was thinking of using the later oil filter mount that sits at the back of the intake but using the early oil lines and locations. Just wanted to neaten it up as I'm not really a fan of the look of oil canister.

 

[bsimmo360]

Would this work? Changing to later mount. My concern is oil pressure.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

Would this work? Changing to later mount. My concern is oil pressure.

View attachment 1715360053

Worth remembering that you still won’t have a full flow system as you are still using the bypass type plumbing.
Why not plumb it up and test with a mechanical gauge screwed into where your oil light switch is currently located then use a priming shaft to check pressure and leaks?

 

[bsimmo360]

Worth remembering that you still won’t have a full flow system as you are still using the bypass type plumbing.
Why not plumb it up and test with a mechanical gauge screwed into where your oil light switch is currently located then use a priming shaft to check pressure and leaks?

Any ideas on how to make it a full flow system?

 

[Cal Tonsley]

Any ideas on how to make it a full flow system?

I don’t think it will be possible without accessing the main feed from the oil pump and putting the filter in series with it like the later blocks do.

 

[bsimmo360]

I don’t think it will be possible without accessing the main feed from the oil pump and putting the filter in series with it like the later blocks do.

OK. Thanks. I'll keep doing some research and see if it's possible.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would simply eliminate the oil filter. One and done. With today's modern oils, I think it could go without it at regular oil change intervals and you'd never know the difference. I'd leave it off in a second.

 

[jazak5]

I would simply eliminate the oil filter. One and done. With today's modern oils, I think it could go without it at regular oil change intervals and you'd never know the difference. I'd leave it off in a second.

just run a good oil and drill the drain plug and epoxy a high powered rare earth magnet to catch the ferrous metal