Early A Points to Electronic Ignition Conversion

-
64 SRT8 Dart

64 SRT8 Dart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
2,340
Reaction score
91
Location
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Hi everyone!

If any of you have been in the "Electrical and Ignition" section lately you might have read my thread about my wiring harness in my 66 Valiant melting a fusible link and alt gauge wires that started to cook.

Well I pulled the firewall-forward harness and the dash harness and went through them...well the dash one has been gone completely through and the modifications done to it to eliminate the gauge.

I'm now in the process of cleaning up the engine harness and am going to wire in electronic ignition.

Does anyone have a diagram for wiring this into an early A body?? One diagram I've looked at seems to be for a later model as it shows a yellow wire going from the ballast resistor to the starter relay. Mine doesn't have a provision on the relay for the yellow wire.

Stuff like that kind of confuses me a little.

Any help is appreciated!!
 
I'm in same boat, I had my ammeter wiring burn so i by-passed it.

I also installed pertronix ignitor 2 and i have 3 wire alternator from previous owner.

Just finished re-building the motor (slant 6) and the wiring is done.

I just put a jumper wire in place of the ballast resistor (i have pertronix coil), but i can't seem to get anymore than 6V across the coil.

A wiring diagram can be very helpful.

Don't mean to hi-jack, just don't want to create a new thread as we're asking same thing.
 
No prob, maybe there should be a sticky for it??

As for one of my dilemmas, any diagram I do see it says to run the ignition wire from the ig' switch to the ballast resistor.....well, I have two "ignition switch" wires that run to each end of the ballast resistor, so....which one do I use or don't use????

One is brown and the other is dark blue w/tracer.
 
That diagram with the yellow wire is WRONG

Are you using the Mopar 4 pin ECU, and 2 pin ballast? If so, just use the correct ballast for the ECU/ coil and hook it right up the way your points were

In other words hook the ballast up to the original ballast connectors, assuming they are not damaged, or replace them.

Hook the original coil + wire up to the coil + (You only had one with a ring terminal, the other came off the distributor)

Then wire the rest of it like this diagram:

Ignition_System_4pin.jpg


You need a pigtail for the Mopar ECU with a dist. pickup connector (the two terminal connector) so that is "done."

Then you take the one wire as shown from the box and hook it to coil NEG

Then you take the SECOND wire as shown and wire it to the "ignition switch" side of the ballast resistor. This is the side that does NOT have a brown wire hooked in. If it's easier, you can splice into the regulator "IGN" wire.

ON A SIDE NOTE:

If your old "points" dist is not worn out, keep a spare set of points / condenser and the dist. in your trunk. If the electronics dies on the road, ALL you have to do to get goin' is slam the old points unit back in the engine, pull loose the plug on the ECU, and hook the points wire back up to coil NEG with NO other changes!!!
 
Yep,
That is how I wired mine. Works like a champ. The factory instructions, and prints that come with the kit will drive you mad. There are all kinds of mistakes in them.

67Dart273 said:
That diagram with the yellow wire is WRONG

Are you using the Mopar 4 pin ECU, and 2 pin ballast? If so, just use the correct ballast for the ECU/ coil and hook it right up the way your points were

In other words hook the ballast up to the original ballast connectors, assuming they are not damaged, or replace them.

Hook the original coil + wire up to the coil + (You only had one with a ring terminal, the other came off the distributor)

Then wire the rest of it like this diagram:

Ignition_System_4pin.jpg


You need a pigtail for the Mopar ECU with a dist. pickup connector (the two terminal connector) so that is "done."

Then you take the one wire as shown from the box and hook it to coil NEG

Then you take the SECOND wire as shown and wire it to the "ignition switch" side of the ballast resistor. This is the side that does NOT have a brown wire hooked in. If it's easier, you can splice into the regulator "IGN" wire.

ON A SIDE NOTE:

If your old "points" dist is not worn out, keep a spare set of points / condenser and the dist. in your trunk. If the electronics dies on the road, ALL you have to do to get goin' is slam the old points unit back in the engine, pull loose the plug on the ECU, and hook the points wire back up to coil NEG with NO other changes!!!
Click to expand...
 
From my research they also recommend updating the charging system to the 2 field alternator and electronic voltage regulator becuase the old points style voltage regulator can cause voltage spikes and kill the electronic ignition module. Or... I ordered the retro fit regulator from FBO systems in Oregon that has and electronic voltage regulator for the older 1 field wire alternator. It looks just like the original black box regulator with a PC board under the cover. $42 shipped it is a great alternative.
 
Good to know! I still have a points regulator.

MrBill65Valiant said:
From my research they also recommend updating the charging system to the 2 field alternator and electronic voltage regulator becuase the old points style voltage regulator can cause voltage spikes and kill the electronic ignition module. Or... I ordered the retro fit regulator from FBO systems in Oregon that has and electronic voltage regulator for the older 1 field wire alternator. It looks just like the original black box regulator with a PC board under the cover. $42 shipped it is a great alternative.
Click to expand...
 
MrBill65Valiant said:
From my research they also recommend updating the charging system to the 2 field alternator and electronic voltage regulator becuase the old points style voltage regulator can cause voltage spikes and kill the electronic ignition module. Or... I ordered the retro fit regulator from FBO systems in Oregon that has and electronic voltage regulator for the older 1 field wire alternator. It looks just like the original black box regulator with a PC board under the cover. $42 shipped it is a great alternative.
Click to expand...

604 said:
Just checked around and Classic Industries has them for only $21.99

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md2439.html
Click to expand...

Great idea and those electronic regulators are stable and will take the flash out of your headlights at idle. A word of caution though, make sure you have the regulator case grounded to the firewall really well. If not grounded well enough they will full field the alternator and it will throw 16+ volts into the system and cause all sorts of problems. Mine boiled the battery dry in a couple of hours and blew almost every bulb in the car (along with the amp meter) tmm
 
MrBill65Valiant said:
From my research they also recommend updating the charging system to the 2 field alternator and electronic voltage regulator becuase the old points style voltage regulator can cause voltage spikes and kill the electronic ignition module. Or... I ordered the retro fit regulator from FBO systems in Oregon that has and electronic voltage regulator for the older 1 field wire alternator. It looks just like the original black box regulator with a PC board under the cover. $42 shipped it is a great alternative.
Click to expand...

Going to the 70/ later system good way to go buy you don't HAVE to. Buy a Standard VR-128 or NAPA VR1001, like this:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Ignition-VR128-Volt-Reg/dp/B000CQ1YJ8"]Amazon.com: Standard Ignition VR128 Volt Reg: Automotive[/ame]

These, or the FBO you noted, will ALSO work on the 70/ later isolated field alternators simply by grounding one field terminal.
 
I have up graded my 64 with the 70's style years ago , before the up graded regulator came out and there was some hacking into the harness to use it .... but I have had NO problems .
 
just do what you have been told and you will be happy, I have this in my 65 cuda formula s and had done the same in my 66 cuda both have 318 motors from early 70 mopars! Enjoy the electronic ignition and you will no longer have any issues and it starts easy and rides well. Not to mention you get some good Hp out of it and gas mileage may be a little better.... It is simple use the orange box and keep it simple dont overdo it unless you get to very high hp or drag racing only! Kiss methodology always works well!!!

oh and do up to electronic voltage regulator simple to update as mentioned above goes with rest of update to electronic ignition system!!!
 
Got all the ignition hooked up....went with an MSD Blaster2 coil and ballast resistor.
Does it matter which end of the resistor that the wires are hooked to?

The car does start easier and seems to have more power.

Also, went to the 2 field alternator (65 amp), does it matter where the green and blue wires go on the fields?
 
64 SRT8 Dart said:
Does it matter which end of the resistor that the wires are hooked to?

Also, went to the 2 field alternator (65 amp), does it matter where the green and blue wires go on the fields?
Click to expand...
If a 2-terminal ballast, it doesn't matter which side is which.
It doesn't matter which alternator field terminal is which. Just insure that both are isolated from the alternator case, using a multimeter (ohms = infinity). If not, check for the little mica insulator washers on the screws.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top