Early vs. Late dusters

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318willrun said:
too many "what if's", to figure what could go wrong, Dan. What if the kid buys what he thinks is a good running Duster and it leaves him in the middle of nowhere on the second day because dirt got on the needle and seat? Or an electrical issue?? Again, too many "WHAT IF'S". HOW ABOUT THIS ONE : They have pollution inspection in Colorado, what if the car don't pass emission test ???????? oH bOY !!!!!! '75 SHOULD HAVE A CAT... DOES IT?? CHARCOAL CANISTER???? ALL HOOKED UP????
:lol:
Now that I think about it more ..... FOR SURE THE 72 !!!!!!
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CO emissions laws require tests on cars '76 and newer so the '75 just barely misses that. I also believe Pueblo county doesn't do emissions testing, it depends on the county where the car is registered. Some parts of CO don't do emissions.

I don't think anyone expects him to get the '75 and just start driving it right off the bat. He'd have to do all the same checks on the '72, AND swap in a running engine plus other major work.

I think at this point we need to see what @Princess Valiant 's thoughts are so far and get more details on her cousin's availability (he's in college so spare time is minimal), motivation, skill level, and where he'll be working on the thing in the first place. Not to mention how far that work space will be from where he lives or goes to school.
 
MopaR&D said:
CO emissions laws require tests on cars '76 and newer so the '75 just barely misses that.

I don't think anyone expects him to get the '75 and just start driving it right off the bat. He'd have to do all the same checks on the '72, AND swap in a running engine plus other major work.

I think at this point we need to see what @Princess Valiant 's thoughts are so far and get more details on her cousin's availability (he's in college so spare time is minimal), motivation, skill level, and where he'll be working on the thing in the first place. Not to mention how far that work space will be from where he lives or goes to school.
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  • thanks for the clarification on the inspection :) It's still a cat car regardless.
  • My point is I gave my opinion, directly on point to what the op asked, selecting one of the two choices given. I did not address anyone else and their opinion, until a bunch of pictures came my way addressing me LOL
 
Dan the man said:
The '72 is the better looking car for sure. But with lack of experience and money is why I said the '72. If they already didn't have a car, I would suggest a mustang or a nova simply because of the cost of parts
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I can't agree. I love the look of the 73 especially, but the 74-76 cars are very close. I like the big bumpers on them too. That's all a part of the loo to me.
 
MopaR&D said:
CO emissions laws require tests on cars '76 and newer so the '75 just barely misses that. I also believe Pueblo county doesn't do emissions testing, it depends on the county where the car is registered. Some parts of CO don't do emissions.

I don't think anyone expects him to get the '75 and just start driving it right off the bat. He'd have to do all the same checks on the '72, AND swap in a running engine plus other major work.

I think at this point we need to see what @Princess Valiant 's thoughts are so far and get more details on her cousin's availability (he's in college so spare time is minimal), motivation, skill level, and where he'll be working on the thing in the first place. Not to mention how far that work space will be from where he lives or goes to school.
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I agree, but she always starts stuff like this and just disappears.
 
318willrun said:
  • thanks for the clarification on the inspection :) It's still a cat car regardless.
  • My point is I gave my opinion, directly on point to what the op asked, selecting one of the two choices given. I did not address anyone else and their opinion, until a bunch of pictures came my way addressing me LOL
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I got you it's all good, I'm just giving my opinion in response as someone who started out knowing jack about old Mopars and working on cars and having nobody in my family or circle of friends to help me and guide me along the way.

Since it most likely doesn't require emissions testing you can remove the cat (if it isn't already) and modify it to your heart's content. The only people who care about what emissions equipment is on your car are the boneheads at the e-test stations who know nothing except what they read on the computer or in a book based on YMM. Service shops generally don't give a rat's *** on anything pre-1980s unless maybe you specifically ask them to remove the cat, which you can just go home and do yourself with a sawzall and bring it back with a wink and a nod and none will be the wiser.
 
Kern Dog said:
In time, this kid may surpass any one of us in mechanical ability but now, today, he is just starting out.
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Exactly. I'm with you 100%

This question wasn't about what we should do for ourselves. Clearly the intent was on what advice we would provide a 20 year old with no experience.

Maybe I'm just a clutz and a dope, but when I needed to lift an engine it to a couple hours just to go get the hoist, bring it back and put it together.
Going back further, when I first started doing more than points, oil change, spark plugs and air filter, I had to go buy tools - in particular a full 1/2" drive set. On any of the projects I usually found myself spending much of Saturday morning making runs to the parts store and/or junk yards.
Having all of that stuff makes a difference. Knowing how things go together makes a differnce. Knowing which parts are actually correct makes a difference. Time is made or lost just in the process of learning how to get at bolts and hoses and wires.

A person can learn by reading and also by doing. (For purposes here video is same as reading). But both are needed. So there's time there.
Often the first times, we do something it is by the numbers. Rote learning. Step 1, step 2, step 3. That's fine for some stuff, but for problem solving its neccessary to learn how stuff works. That takes time. There's no substitute.

Now if this young man wants a puzzle and a challenge, then maybe the non-running car is a the better match.
But from my own experience having a working, running example as a baseline is reallly helpful.
 
Mattax said:
Exactly. I'm with you 100%

This question wasn't about what we should do for ourselves. Clearly the intent was on what advice we would provide a 20 year old with no experience.

Maybe I'm just a clutz and a dope, but when I needed to lift an engine it to a couple hours just to go get the hoist, bring it back and put it together.
Going back further, when I first started doing more than points, oil change, spark plugs and air filter, I had to go buy tools - in particular a full 1/2" drive set. On any of the projects I usually found myself spending much of Saturday morning making runs to the parts store and/or junk yards.
Having all of that stuff makes a difference. Knowing how things go together makes a differnce. Knowing which parts are actually correct makes a difference. Time is made or lost just in the process of learning how to get at bolts and hoses and wires.

A person can learn by reading and also by doing. (For purposes here video is same as reading). But both are needed. So there's time there.
Often the first times, we do something it is by the numbers. Rote learning. Step 1, step 2, step 3. That's fine for some stuff, but for problem solving its neccessary to learn how stuff works. That takes time. There's no substitute.

Now if this young man wants a puzzle and a challenge, then maybe the non-running car is a the better match.
But from my own experience having a working, running example as a baseline is reallly helpful.
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Exactly. This kid doesn’t have a car, or the place to work on it and I suspect he doesn’t have much more than basic hand tools.

The 72 and earlier snobs think the 75 is a money loser because of appeal.

Its worth reminding them when I bought my one owner 72 340 4 speed bucket seat disc brake 8.75 rear axle yellow on black Demon that the “experts” of that era said I over paid (1K) for it and it would never have any value compared to a non smogger or worse yet, the much vaunted E body cars that I find to be some of the most uncomfortable cars to drive. It’s right up there with a 68 Camaro as far as driver comfort.

The kid needs the running car so he can learn to do some tuning and things like that BEFORE he starts doing R&R work.
 
I stated my opinion earlier, and it's based on real experience. In 1992 I bought my second 1970 Dart, a non running 318/904 car. The seller told me that the transmission was done, and he and his son had started to take it apart, but the son quickly lost interest and after it sitting in the front yard for a year or longer, his wife said it had to go.
I paid $70.00 for it, and had it towed home. I was working full-time and I had been pulling wrenches for more than 10 years by then, but it still took 3 weeks of working on it nights and weekends before I got to drive it, not to mention at least $1500.00 in parts costs.
I had a friend rebuild the transmission for me, I did the remove and reinstall on the driveway, and I installed new brakes, master cylinder, 2 wheel cylinders, complete exhaust, 2 front fenders (rusted), 4 used tires, pinion seal, u joints, tie rods, all new cooling system hoses and a radiator. When I wasn't working on it, I was tracking down parts, a much easier task 25 years ago than today.
That's the reality.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I agree, but she always starts stuff like this and just disappears.
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Particularly how she left out any detail of what involvement she would have with her cousin maintaining either car. She provided context she is the matchmaker between seller and potential buyer. However nothing about what support, if any, she would provide should the cousin purchase either one. That’s a key detail. Without that, we might as well talk about how many raisons (not scoops) there are in a box of raison bran.

Its easy for all of us to say ‘yeah, swapping brakes and engines is simple’ but that’s based on us knowing what it involves and having tools already including a space to work on the car.

Tool and car part stores are no longer down the block or around the corner. Factor in driving to the tool store, traffic, etc, and you’re probably at least a 30 minute (round trip if not longer) just to get a tool. And getting the part will likely take a day or two for it to be delivered. Gone are the days of being back in your garage, in less than 15 minutes with the part/tool to keep you going on your project and having it done by the end of the day, let alone weekend.
 
Not snobs, I look at the raw material and what I want to end up with. Is the 360 cobbled in there? I would not touch it, don't like them anyway. Is he mature enough not to get in trouble with a 360? How much gas will it use? I can tell you my son's 73 Dart 4 door didn't get the 4 barrel, cam, and dual exhaust till he was older than 20. Even so he admitted he was running someone in Baltimore somewhere around 100 mph with the original 318 2 barrel. I also like the person who said he should drive it and see if he liked it. I've run them all and had a 71 340 4 speed Duster and a 72 225 auto Duster. I like the feel of the early Dusters. Value does not enter into my decisions.
 
318willrun said:
too many "what if's", to figure what could go wrong, Dan. What if the kid buys what he thinks is a good running Duster and it leaves him in the middle of nowhere on the second day because dirt got on the needle and seat? Or an electrical issue?? Again, too many "WHAT IF'S". HOW ABOUT THIS ONE : They have pollution inspection in Colorado, what if the car don't pass emission test ???????? oH bOY !!!!!! '75 SHOULD HAVE A CAT... DOES IT?? CHARCOAL CANISTER???? ALL HOOKED UP????
:lol:
Now that I think about it more ..... FOR SURE THE 72 !!!!!!
Click to expand...
You brought up some good points. Here in Missouri where I live there's no pollution inspection required and you can remove the catalytic converters. I don't remember, does the '72 have a charcoal canister? Also in Missouri you don't need front and rear license plates until '72. I have to admit that I really like the older cars, I think that it's awesome to get what you can from them without spending the big bucks. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with the sbm's.
missing linc said:
I stated my opinion earlier, and it's based on real experience. In 1992 I bought my second 1970 Dart, a non running 318/904 car. The seller told me that the transmission was done, and he and his son had started to take it apart, but the son quickly lost interest and after it sitting in the front yard for a year or longer, his wife said it had to go.
I paid $70.00 for it, and had it towed home. I was working full-time and I had been pulling wrenches for more than 10 years by then, but it still took 3 weeks of working on it nights and weekends before I got to drive it, not to mention at least $1500.00 in parts costs.
I had a friend rebuild the transmission for me, I did the remove and reinstall on the driveway, and I installed new brakes, master cylinder, 2 wheel cylinders, complete exhaust, 2 front fenders (rusted), 4 used tires, pinion seal, u joints, tie rods, all new cooling system hoses and a radiator. When I wasn't working on it, I was tracking down parts, a much easier task 25 years ago than today.
That's the reality.
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That's what I was talking about earlier, tracking down parts. With a newbie this can be very discouraging, that and the cost factor is why I suggest starting him off with a car that's easier and more affordable to get parts for. I said awhile back that a neighbor scraped his '74 dart sport because of no interior trim pieces being available. He bought a nova that was a roller, what work it needed I don't know but I do know that it was on the road in a couple of months. He wasted more time looking on the internet for parts for the dart than it took to get the nova running. He did find some of the needed pieces but they were junk too, so both time and money wasted. I believe it's a good idea to see what's available both new and used before buying a car. I have avoided some mopars just for the reason that parts were hard to get. Myself, I'd rather be enjoying my car than spending lots of time searching for parts. I understand that most here are going to disagree with me on this and that's okay. Just my. 02 worth. I wish him all the luck with what ever he buys and welcome him to the hobby. It can be enjoyable
 
Wow, a lot of good points here.

The 75 does not have a cat, I had forgot that 75 did come with a cat. This one is long gone.

I went today and drove the 75, I really think it runs good enough that a little bit of maintenence will keep it going. I went on the highway and the guy was acting like a chicken and said to stay close in case of break down. (Not a good sales strategy) i did not baby it because I was hoping If it broke down, it would do it with me instead of anyone else. It's cold here and the heater actually works and got the car toasty, after blowing a lot of dust and leaves.

Kinda weird that the more I drove it, the better it seemed to run. The interior needs help, it's a trash can on wheels, I think the taco bell wrappers in the trunk are a few logo styles back.

Based on the replies I recommended he get the 75 because he can use it now and there's still plenty he can do with it.

He has no later car hate like some of us who have been around these cars much longer.

I also like that it has electronic ignition, I personally have had great luck with factory ignition parts. The 72 has points on it which would need upgrading. Even i don't mess with points, why, when you don't have to. I do keep a points dizzy with me when I go real long distances as well as spare ignition parts. (You can't get this stuff at auto zone anymore without ordering it)

The more I looked at the 72 the more I think it's a level 4 model kit, it's fixable but going to require a bigger budget and more things need fixed before it's even decent.
 
Charcoal cans have are more for better operation more than for power robbing smog control.

Even though it does help with emissions because it prevents raw hydrocarbon vapor from escaping. I never can understand when people toss those, used properly, that charcoal can could be your friend.
 
Princess Valiant said:
Charcoal cans have are more for better operation more than for power robbing smog control.

Even though it does help with emissions because it prevents raw hydrocarbon vapor from escaping. I never can understand when people toss those, used properly, that charcoal can could be your friend.
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I actually added one to my Duster because I got sick of my garage filling up with gas fumes every time I'd park after a drive. That was when I had a Carter AFB though, my "new" Street Demon doesn't have a bowl vent fitting for charcoal canister so it's now removed. Pretty sure I saved it though.
 
MopaR&D said:
I actually added one to my Duster because I got sick of my garage filling up with gas fumes every time I'd park after a drive. That was when I had a Carter AFB though, my "new" Street Demon doesn't have a bowl vent fitting for charcoal canister so it's now removed. Pretty sure I saved it though.
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Why not just plug the vent? I've never heard of anyone else having this problem
 
Dan the man said:
Why not just plug the vent? I've never heard of anyone else having this problem
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I've heard of others having that issue, depends on the carb, altitude, what fuel you run. My Street Demon doesn't do it much because the bowl vents go into the air horn and the fumes collect in the carb venturis/intake manifold instead of under the hood. If you just plug an external bowl vent fitting then the bowl can't vent properly and when running you'll have weird issues. Maybe not noticeable in terms of drivability but it will definitely throw off your tune.

I'm not a fan of plugging fittings on a carb unless they're vacuum fittings for emissions equipment that's no longer on the car, or for a power brake booster which I don't have because my car has manual brakes.
 
Princess Valiant said:
Wow, a lot of good points here.

The 75 does not have a cat, I had forgot that 75 did come with a cat. This one is long gone.

I went today and drove the 75, I really think it runs good enough that a little bit of maintenence will keep it going. I went on the highway and the guy was acting like a chicken and said to stay close in case of break down. (Not a good sales strategy) i did not baby it because I was hoping If it broke down, it would do it with me instead of anyone else. It's cold here and the heater actually works and got the car toasty, after blowing a lot of dust and leaves.

Kinda weird that the more I drove it, the better it seemed to run. The interior needs help, it's a trash can on wheels, I think the taco bell wrappers in the trunk are a few logo styles back.

Based on the replies I recommended he get the 75 because he can use it now and there's still plenty he can do with it.

He has no later car hate like some of us who have been around these cars much longer.

I also like that it has electronic ignition, I personally have had great luck with factory ignition parts. The 72 has points on it which would need upgrading. Even i don't mess with points, why, when you don't have to. I do keep a points dizzy with me when I go real long distances as well as spare ignition parts. (You can't get this stuff at auto zone anymore without ordering it)

The more I looked at the 72 the more I think it's a level 4 model kit, it's fixable but going to require a bigger budget and more things need fixed before it's even decent.
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That's strange that the 72 has points as 72 was the first year for electronic ignition systems in mopars
 
Princess Valiant said:
Charcoal cans have are more for better operation more than for power robbing smog control.

Even though it does help with emissions because it prevents raw hydrocarbon vapor from escaping. I never can understand when people toss those, used properly, that charcoal can could be your friend.
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They certainly aren't any type of performance part, BUT, If it has the vapor return system intact, that whole system can save fuel by returning vapors to the tank and condensing them back to liquid fuel.
 
toolmanmike said:
72 get's my vote as well. ALready a Teen car. You probably have one to swap in and on the road we go. Go through the brakes, suspension, lights and cruise.
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I'm with you Mike. I kick myself everyday for getting rid of 69 340 4 Speed Swinger back in 83 when I went GM due to $$$ and parts availabity.

'72 at least it's not a 64 Dart
Spare Ballast Resistors
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LMAO !

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