elcetricity question

-
WOW.. dont take this the wrong way but if you lived here in WI you'd be replacing that fuse box PRONTO, (no way no how is that up to current building codes) I have not seen a fuse box like that in years, you still have fuses, I would get a local electrcian in there to look at that BEFORE you buy any welder.
 
There is only one safe way that I see and that would be to add another modern panel and tap into the hard lines coming in. That way you would have a main breaker and another breaker big enough to handle the draw for the welder, essentially bypassing that particular box and those screw in fuses just for the welder and maybe a couple of outlets if you wanted them.

How far is that panel from your garage if you have one.
 
It's the original fuse box this house was built in the 50's and it's the land lord responsibility to replace it all.
 
I'm going to approach it another way, and ask what you plan to weld. If it is thin auto sheetmetal you "may" get by with a 15 amp. circuit. I would prefer a dedicated 20 amp, but it don't look like you are going to get that!
Also, note the duty cycle. Whatever you plug it into you can only weld for short bursts.
My 2 cents.
C
 
Valiant Rebel said:
It's the original fuse box this house was built in the 50's and it's the land lord responsibility to replace it all.
Click to expand...


I'm not saying replace it, just pick up a modern 50 Amp box and tap into the hard line supplying that box. Then you would have a main breaker and another breaker large enough to handle the welder, and it would be completely independent of that old fuse box.


Like this:
 

Attachments

  • square D.jpg
    9.3 KB · Views: 328
Here's what I'd do. Get/ find an old school 2-fuse disconnect that uses the same screw in fuses as your original stuff

Looks like this:

30_amp_fused_disconnect_westing_house_ite__285x348_.jpg


I doubt you can buy them new, go to the used/ thrift shops, or do you have a recycled building materials place in your area?

Identify what runs the range or dryer, I'm thinking the far left cartridge block. Come off that with some no10, run over to your disconnect, and you'll need a neutral and ground. That doesn't look like "three wire" so that means the neutral IS the ground. You can NOT, however use the neutral (same wire) for the "third wire" ground. In other words, a two wire system like that (one hot for 120v, and the neutral) you do not HAVE a third wire ground.

For that welder, you only need one fuse in the box, but wire it with two hot legs, one to each fuse, and you can put up to 30A in there with no10 wire.

It won't hurt to run no10 with ground from there to the welder, and if you need to "cheat" and use a 240 welder, you can convert that box/ wiring to 240 just by changing the neutral (white) into a hot leg by hooking to the second fuse

None of this meets code, but you are kind'a in a rock and a hard place, here.

If you were to "do this right" it might get rather expensive, hell you might need new service from the pole, along with a new box, and tryin to find a way to ground all the outlets.

AND speaking of outlets, in a pinch you do NOT need to ground the outlet. You can install a GFCI outlet and run it WITHOUT a ground, but I believe the code says it must be so marked.

The thing about using a used old school disconnect, is it looks sorta like it "belongs"

Let your concience be your guide. Buy smoke alarms. Buy several good ones.
 
I personally wouldn't mess with that box. Liability on you making any changes to the box without your landlords written permission would be a ***** if God forbid there was an overload and a fire. If he gives you the go ahead, I would ask him to hire a licensed electrician and get the job done to code. That box looks scary. Is there still cloth covered wiring there? Just my .02 cents.
 
The biggest problem with fused panels is the SAME problems with breaker panels---keeping all connections and fuses TIGHT. Every few years, a guy should kill the power, open the box and tighten everything up.

There are a couple of boxes, ---Federal Pacific is infamous-- that were poorly designed and can NOT be made safe

Whatever -- it -- was -- that came in a late 80s--early 90's "manufactured home" of a friend of mine, 'xample. Don't remember the box, but it was an "all electric" home. The damn thing was only about 2 years old, and he had trouble with one of the "big" circuits, range, dryer, furnace, don't remember.

THE GOD DAMMED THING the breakers were not making tight contact where they clipped to the buss bars!!!! There was NO WAY to make it safe!!! I told him flat out, "you need to get this box replaced, and attempt to sue the house manufacturer." He did replace the box.

The house I grew up in was built around 35. It had fuses until just a VERY few years ago
 
No way I would modify that box. Look at it this way. I have a rental house, circa 1955. It had that. The insurance co made me put in a modern box and new service, until they would insure it for renting out again.

That sure looks like a problem; even adding a side box; service wiring still too small.
 
Thanks for the help. I will see if I can get the landlord to update it and put in a extra line for a welder.
 
Contact your landlord pronto!! I would have my electric company bring 200amp service into the home.(free service i think) Then i would have landord replace your fuse's with breakers.After that your ready to run whatever you desire. that's just me!!
 
78kitcar said:
Contact your landlord pronto!! I would have my electric company bring 200amp service into the home.(free service i think) Then i would have landord replace your fuse's with breakers.After that your ready to run whatever you desire. that's just me!!
Click to expand...

Wow, I want your electric company, I had to pay for mine and pay to have it installed.
 
The power company that services my place does not charge any extra if you want a 400 amp service instead of 200 amp service. I just had a service put on the garage, thanks to a miscommunication we dug the ditch, cost $300 for the mini excavator. Power company charged us $57.52 to run 150' of conduit and wire. Point is if you are going to stay there might want to look into the higher amp service. Course there is a crap load of other $$ but that is another story.....
 
I,m kind of a wild man but I would jump off the range circuit. Shut everything in the kitchen off when you are welding. Those glass fuses will pop if you pull too much.Just whatever you do dont put larger fuses in. Keep a few extra for when youre welding.Pick up a few extra shot gun shell ballast fuses you will need them. Slow burn will work it you dont weld too continuosly.
 
The link to the welder says it will operate off 115V household current. That means any existing standard outlet should be sufficient to power this welder, BUT!, as everyone is saying, that panel is not up to the job. It looks like your service is maybe 60 amps tops. No main disconnect at the panel, perhaps there is an external switch? There is no visible grounding system and I'd suspect all your outlets are the old 2 pin, no ground style. There seems to be multiple taps to the same fuses, so there likely is no fuse dedicated to only one outlet. If you must weld using this service, I'd suggest using an existing outlet as long as it is in good repair and turn off everything else in the house when you are welding. Expansion of this system is likely impossible and defiantly impractical.
 
I had the same box in my old house only it was just 2 pairs of ballast fuses and I jumped 220 of my dryer plug to a welder plug box next to it and ran a lincoln cracker box off it for 20 years. Replaced a lot of fuses.If the box will power a 220 dryer it will damn sure power a 110 welder.
 
Will it work? Yes....is it safe? Moderately. As a licensed electrician I would give you this advice. Ask the landlord to replace it and tell him that his insurance co should give him a decent cut for the upgrade. Another route would be to try and weld with it but if it blows the fuse instead of continually replacing it I would push the landlord a little harder. As an additional precaution a cheap but effective method of preventative maintenance is to get a laser temp gun and check the panel for hot spots while you have all of the loads on
 
I've been fighting with my 15 amp circuit and welder not loving each other for a while now. For me it's a bit easier,I can just swap out a circuit breaker.

I would step down a 240 volt circuit to 120,maybe your drier and run it off that.
 
Call your neighbors. Tell them to bring marshmallows.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top