After reading this thread I guess I should scrap my VanNorman 570 and BHJ Blok Tru. Honestly, it does take a while to set up, but has served me well , at least when measured with my stone age dial indicators.
Listen! I don't mean to put all of your methods down. But times have changed. I can remember not that long ago my telephone had a wire going to it.
It took a long time to get our machines that we have. They are for us and racers we know and meet. My son charges $200 to square deck a V8. Break a tool and there goes a couple hundred
He was telling us tonight the proper way to machine a new block is
1. hold the block and Bore the cam tunnel
2 hold the block by the cam tunnel with a cam bar and cut the mains
3 hold the block in the fixture by the main bearing bores and set the deck height on one side by using the Cam and crank center which is 45 degrees to the first deck. Zero the DRO
4.Turn the fixture and it will go past center to 45 degrees to the other side of the center this will be 90 degrees from the first deck This is square decking. Exact 90 Degree head surface difference is squaring the decks. If you cut to zero on the second Deck they will be the exact same height and 90 degrees apart. Another words a framing square will set from deck to deck. Square!
What I did but I did the crank line bore first- wonder what the difference is
as most of us know one cam bearing is usually tight on a BBM
After reading this thread I guess I should scrap my VanNorman 570 and BHJ Blok Tru. Honestly, it does take a while to set up, but has served me well , at least when measured with my stone age dial indicators.
I am not trying to piss on anyone. The reason it only cost $200 to deck a block Is not due to what he paid for the machine. It is because that is how long it takes times $60 an hour. Do it the old way and the time rate doubles. It takes longer and the chance of error also goes up with pen and paper. These machines do the math for you. If shops set their rates at the cost of their equipment they would never get work.
Exactly. I'm betting in the end, what you have is only slower in actual machine time. The new stuff is certainly more rigid, and you can take a bigger cut, and up the speed and feed rates.
Other than that, it's about a wash.
You're not trying to piss on anybody? But we're "whacked out" because we don't do it yall's way. I could pick some more of your condescending quotes, but I think you see my point.
Look man, I get it. You're PROUD of your son and what he can do. In fact, there's probably NOBODY on here who gets it more than I do. Wanna know why? Because my son is a shitstain on the diaper of humanity. If it doesn't involve laying around all day playing video games online, he doesn't do it. S'why he left here in 2008 and ain't gonna live here. Ever. Again. Geez man, if I were you, I'd wanna be shouting from the mountain tops how proud I am of my son. I get it. I just don't have that luxury.
Lots of people have won races and set records with "whacked out" machinists who did their machine work, so they must know "a little" something.
So im going to do another check juat to check again but my question is if that is true reading then should i get undersized bearings?
So im going to do another check juat to check again but my question is if that is true reading then should i get undersized bearings?
After looking in a 68 Dodge service manual your good to go at .0005-.0020 max .0030 on the rods and .0005-0015 max .0025 on the mains.
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?That's for the 273/318/340 sized mains. That's pretty tight for that bigger 360 main. Unless you run really thin oil and the block is very rigid.
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?
Then you are ok. For some reason I thought you had 360 mains.
Just got em, from what i heard is they have shelf life. How do i know if mine was too old?how "fresh" your plasti-gauge is can affect the squish, and thus your readings.
I don't know. I don't think there's a date on the packaging. I know I tried using some that i know was a couple years old, and the readings were way off. So I went and got some fresh stuff, and it was a big difference.Just got em, from what i heard is they have shelf life. How do i know if mine was too old?