engine install

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twayne24365

twayne24365

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so ive swapped motors in a bbody plenty of times, engine bolted to trans and one at a time, but ive never put one in an abody, i have a 72 swinger and very soon ill be putting the 383 into it, ill be using a motor plate, is it easier to do it one at a time or have the engine and trans bolted together then put it in?
 
I would think engine first then the trans would be easer with a plate, I did mine all at once but had a dc k frame. Most like to put it in from the bottom.
 
Everyone will say lower body onto k member but some dont have picker. I have done it an a 65 both ways, complete and seperated. I would say complete but youll have to raise front at least 6 inches to get trans extension under hump and itlk still ge tight at rad support but it does fit. If you decise to lower motor into mounted trans, remove engine brackets, there is little chance youll line them up mounted, at least in my narrow a case as the trans almost hits tunnel at ride height. Just dropnin, bolt to trans, then mount up brackets. Oops you are running plate, my mistake.
 
yea im not going to lower the body onto the k member, i go in from the top lol
 
I dropped my 68 A body down onto the assembled 360A833 a couple of times.I didnt find it all that advantageous. I go in from the top now. No motor plate.I built a real slick motor tilter. Works with or without trans.
 
Engine in first then tranny. Bolted together is a long unit. It can be done with help. I put my 383/727 in from bottom with help from Mrs. Slick way to do it.
 
Put a couple of jack stands under the rear end. Lowers the front end and decreases the angle of engine and trans while going in.
 
Anybody doing it from the top or in two pieces is really missing the boat.

My youngest brother puts his 440 in his Duster by himself and once did it
while I walked across the street to make a sandwich! When I came back,
expecting to help, it was bolted in tight (regular factory K-frame).

Brother Denny will put his Hemi in his Duster completely by himself alone
in his shop and doesn't even want anybody to help.

When you bring it up from the bottom, the headers and the motor mounts
are completely installed and tight. You don't even remove the hood. With
the powertrain out of the car the front of the body is ridiculously light and
easy to maneuver into position. The steering box and linkage, lower control
arms, brakes and spindles are attached to the K-frame along with the engine,
transmission, headers and transmission mount. The radiator and battery are
also out of the car. Not much left to lift ahead of the firewall except for a little
empty sheetmetal and a pair of headlights.

There is very little chance of ever damaging the paint in any way. I mean
that nothing whatsoever touches.

Hard to believe that anyone could drop the motor or motor/trans assembly
in from the top and install the motor mounts and headers without making a
few "contact marks" but maybe that doesn't matter to everybody.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Anybody doing it from the top or in two pieces is really missing the boat.

My youngest brother puts his 440 in his Duster by himself and once did it
while I walked across the street to make a sandwich! When I came back,
expecting to help, it was bolted in tight (regular factory K-frame).

Brother Denny will put his Hemi in his Duster completely by himself alone
in his shop and doesn't even want anybody to help.

When you bring it up from the bottom, the headers and the motor mounts
are completely installed and tight. You don't even remove the hood. With
the powertrain out of the car the front of the body is ridiculously light and
easy to maneuver into position. The steering box and linkage, lower control
arms, brakes and spindles are attached to the K-frame along with the engine,
transmission, headers and transmission mount. The radiator and battery are
also out of the car. Not much left to lift ahead of the firewall except for a little
empty sheetmetal and a pair of headlights.

There is very little chance of ever damaging the paint in any way. I mean
that nothing whatsoever touches.

Hard to believe that anyone could drop the motor or motor/trans assembly
in from the top and install the motor mounts and headers without making a
few "contact marks" but maybe that doesn't matter to everybody.
Click to expand...

all of us have the ceiling heighth .
 
I had to swap out trannys in the 65dart. the old one is out. the next await to go in..... dirt floor, 25 yr old floor jack,, wore out old mopar fart!....(me)... tractor mechanic neighbor was supposed to come over and help 2 weeks ago...LOL

I almost pulled the engine and tranny out together just so I could put them back in together....... LOL at least they would have been back in weeks ago!!
 
From the bottom is the best way, BUT we have done it from the top. Engine only, engine/bell housing, and complete engine/trans. None of it is that difficult, but it does take two people to do it from the top without scratching too many things.
 
This is the third time for me. First one was over the top. That was tough. I built a special Kframe dolly to build the entire front end and engine/tranny combo on. Makes it a really simple install without banging new paint. Wouldn't do it any other way. That being said, if you go over the top, do it with the engine only and then install the tranny from below.
 

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famous bob said:
all of us have the ceiling height .
Click to expand...
Shouldn't be an issue. It's not necessary to stand the car on it's back bumper.
In fact, if you put the back tires on a set of ramps it's better still. Note how high
Dartn440's car is from the above post. He could have done it with a 6' ceiling!

attachment.php

Photo Courtesy of Dartn440
 
the HDK setup looks better all the time...cannot wait till I can scrounge up the coin for one and install in my Scamp.
 
pishta said:
Everyone will say lower body onto k member but some dont have picker. I have done it an a 65 both ways, complete and seperated. I would say complete but youll have to raise front at least 6 inches to get trans extension under hump and itlk still ge tight at rad support but it does fit. If you decise to lower motor into mounted trans, remove engine brackets, there is little chance youll line them up mounted, at least in my narrow a case as the trans almost hits tunnel at ride height. Just dropnin, bolt to trans, then mount up brackets. Oops you are running plate, my mistake.
Click to expand...

The way I see it is, If you don't have an engine hoist, you need to find another hobby. People not serious enough to buy the right tools to work on these cars should reconsider their choices. I overlook folks like that as not even car guys. They are always cryin about how expensive the hoist is. I have a friend in Macon who lives in an apartment. He does all his own work. He has an engine hoist and stand along with his tool box right in his apartment, so location is no excuse either. Either you're in or you're out. I just don't see an in between.
 
Those dead set on doing it from the top, cannot be told otherwise. Save your breath for something important.



Old Man Mopar said:
Anybody doing it from the top or in two pieces is really missing the boat.

My youngest brother puts his 440 in his Duster by himself and once did it
while I walked across the street to make a sandwich! When I came back,
expecting to help, it was bolted in tight (regular factory K-frame).

Brother Denny will put his Hemi in his Duster completely by himself alone
in his shop and doesn't even want anybody to help.

When you bring it up from the bottom, the headers and the motor mounts
are completely installed and tight. You don't even remove the hood. With
the powertrain out of the car the front of the body is ridiculously light and
easy to maneuver into position. The steering box and linkage, lower control
arms, brakes and spindles are attached to the K-frame along with the engine,
transmission, headers and transmission mount. The radiator and battery are
also out of the car. Not much left to lift ahead of the firewall except for a little
empty sheetmetal and a pair of headlights.

There is very little chance of ever damaging the paint in any way. I mean
that nothing whatsoever touches.

Hard to believe that anyone could drop the motor or motor/trans assembly
in from the top and install the motor mounts and headers without making a
few "contact marks" but maybe that doesn't matter to everybody.
Click to expand...
 
txstang84 said:
the HDK setup looks better all the time...cannot wait till I can scrounge up the coin for one and install in my Scamp.
Click to expand...

I know. I am wanting another early A. He is making the K members for them now. I am interested, if my questions keep going ignored, I will do something different.
 
He's using a motor plate. That means it's not attached to the K frame... It goes from the top. If you're using a stock-type sump oil pan it's easiest to do engine and trans together unless you're also using a mid-plate. You might want to leave the water pump off the housing. If you're using a deep sump pan it's easier to stick the trans in, then install the convertor, then drop in the engine.
 
What questions?

I'd like to see an early A with that suspension setup--I'd imagine a little Val or Dart with it would be loads of fun to toss around the asphalt.
 
txstang84 said:
What questions?

I'd like to see an early A with that suspension setup--I'd imagine a little Val or Dart with it would be loads of fun to toss around the asphalt.
Click to expand...

I asked him in his early A thread what holds the car up. I am not familiar with it. Coil overs? There was nothing showing it. Just the K frame and control arms and such. I am assuming it eliminates the T bars, but with no answer............
 
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