Exploding Torqueflight

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This event seems to have taken on mythical proportions..

This is just a darg racing event.. ? I have asked a bunch of folks about this and no one has hear of one exploding on a normal street driven car that does the odd burnout...
 
this happen to me a few years ago,it does happen that's why im going to a glide or turbo 400,you might not see this happen on a street car because you don't see the abuse a drag car takes,just never start a burnout in 1st gear on a 727
 

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grassy said:
This event seems to have taken on mythical proportions..

This is just a darg racing event.. ? I have asked a bunch of folks about this and no one has hear of one exploding on a normal street driven car that does the odd burnout...
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had it happen to a friends charger years ago doing a burnout on the street..
 
more 727s went south or should I say downard
 

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Jim; Forget about the measely Blanket. If you have an explosion like this again, the Blanket will only partially contain it. The fragments actually go around the blanket. Forget about the pricey and Super Hard to install Trans Shields like CSR. Your best bet is a Billet Drum. They're pricey at about 600, but you'll never get burned like this again.
Trust me, I've been where you are, broken foot and all and I had a blanket installed Correctly...DON'T THINK A BLANKET WILL SAVE U, IT WILL NOT.
 
partsmonsta said:
Jim; Forget about the measely Blanket. If you have an explosion like this again, the Blanket will only partially contain it. The fragments actually go around the blanket. Forget about the pricey and Super Hard to install Trans Shields like CSR. Your best bet is a Billet Drum. They're pricey at about 600, but you'll never get burned like this again.
Trust me, I've been where you are, broken foot and all and I had a blanket installed Correctly...DON'T THINK A BLANKET WILL SAVE U, IT WILL NOT.
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why not drive it as its supposed to be and do your burnouts in second... if you f up and burn out in first do the right thing and pack it up and go home... R&R and go play.

two threads about this going right now and its stupid, its like saying a running a suregrip with 600hp and cry when you blow the spider gearsout of it... DRIVER ERROR, it was the wrong part for the job.

do it right and start in second, not that F**king hard...
 
Yall send me all those bastard 727s. I'll take every one of them. For every 727 failure you point to, I can give you 100 examples of good ones. This is just getting stupid as hell.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yall send me all those bastard 727s. I'll take every one of them. For every 727 failure you point to, I can give you 100 examples of good ones. This is just getting stupid as hell.
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I ran 727's and 904's in both my Small blocks and big blocks for years. TCI brake, and Grinner brakes. Neil Chance 8" converter, TCI converter.
Duster was back half, 700HP ran a 14X32 tire.Always started my burn outs in 1st to get the tires turning, then shifted to 2nd. Never blew a trans.Period.
Start in any gear you want,never come out of the burnout under power, no matter what gear you are in.Do the burn out, let the RPM's come down, and roll out,drive out, anything but burn out of the water.
1000's of passes, with nothing fancy, except a bolt in sprauge.My buddy has built 1000's of 727's for drag racing with transbrakes over 25 years, never had a failure like any of these, so I agree with Rusty Rat.
Blankets may not contain a fire, which is real rare, but they will contain oil. I have used all. Any NHRA approved protection will work.
Dis-agree with MOPAR KID about the second gear burn out.
 
I agree with you 100%. I only recommend the 2nd gear thing to make it stupid proof. As long as the wheels are spinning and in the box, everything is fine. You can tell people that until you are blue in the face and they will not listen.

dusterdragracer said:
I ran 727's and 904's in both my Small blocks and big blocks for years. TCI brake, and Grinner brakes. Neil Chance 8" converter, TCI converter.
Duster was back half, 700HP ran a 14X32 tire.Always started my burn outs in 1st to get the tires turning, then shifted to 2nd. Never blew a trans.Period.
Start in any gear you want,never come out of the burnout under power, no matter what gear you are in.Do the burn out, let the RPM's come down, and roll out,drive out, anything but burn out of the water.
1000's of passes, with nothing fancy, except a bolt in sprauge.My buddy has built 1000's of 727's for drag racing with transbrakes over 25 years, never had a failure like any of these, so I agree with Rusty Rat.
Blankets may not contain a fire, which is real rare, but they will contain oil. I have used all. Any NHRA approved protection will work.
Dis-agree with MOPAR KID about the second gear burn out.
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RustyRatRod said:
I agree with you 100%. I only recommend the 2nd gear thing to make it stupid proof. As long as the wheels are spinning and in the box, everything is fine. You can tell people that until you are blue in the face and they will not listen.
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Good point about 2nd gear deal Rusty rat. Most people see guys burning out of the water which is fine with a glide' so they think this is the way to do it.
It's a simple habit to get into, just burn out in the water till you feel starting to hook, let the RPM's drop, then drive out.Our track sucked (black top starting line), so I did a small easy dry hop to make sure it was going to hook making sure the tires were not still wet (we had bad water box control also). I hated doing that, because it was a nother hit on the diff.But it all worked for me.
 
dusterdragracer,

So what if you are doing a burn out on the street w/o water...can you give some advice on how to do it ?
 
grassy said:
dusterdragracer,

So what if you are doing a burn out on the street w/o water...can you give some advice on how to do it ?
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First off, "if" it is a stock auto then you should pull it in low 1 as this apply the rev band which assist in holding the shaft, that is the duty of "over riding clutch"(one way clutch , sprag......what ever term you like.)

If you have one of the early revers manual shift valve body, like i have, you don't have this option. the rev band does not apply.

The factory sprag is real a tough unit. it take a major shock to kill it. such as braking the drive line, rear end busting, or possibly a tire spin in 1st and then grabbing hard a full throttle. the more power you have the bigger grip tire, the better chance of it.

With a factory eng combo it would be almost imposable to brake the sprag with out a drive train failure. aka broke axle,pinion, drive shaft,exc
 
As has been said in the other thread, the factory Hemis held up fine and I would like to think at least one or two of those did a burnout on the street.
 
basically a stock 360 with headers/x pipe..no sure grip...little wider tires..bigger rims..

so we are ok...many thanks..

I am too cheap to spin tires but my son ? :)
 
partsmonsta said:
Jim; Forget about the measely Blanket. If you have an explosion like this again, the Blanket will only partially contain it. The fragments actually go around the blanket. Forget about the pricey and Super Hard to install Trans Shields like CSR. Your best bet is a Billet Drum. They're pricey at about 600, but you'll never get burned like this again.
Trust me, I've been where you are, broken foot and all and I had a blanket installed Correctly...DON'T THINK A BLANKET WILL SAVE U, IT WILL NOT.
Click to expand...

PARTSMONSTA IS 100% CORRECT. I have seen it twice this year, once with a blanket and the second with a CSR shield. They do not stop an exploding drum. The blanket will contain some of the pieces but it will still come through the floor of a 63 Dodge 330. and the CSR shield will slow it down a little but the shield will shatter and come inside the car with you. Both cases the transmissions had stock sintered metal drums.

The ONLY way to stop a drum explosion is to go with a A&A Billet Aluminum or Billet Steel drum. Rick Allison told me that if the billet fails it does not explode like the sintered metal does.
 
Somebody said something about it in the other thread. But just touched on it. Crazy.
 
dusmon said:
How does it fit in the tunnel?
As I need one as well.
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I have the CSR shield in my Demon, fit my 727 in tunnel with no issues. But I also installed engine trans together. I could see trying to deal with shield and installing separately could be a pain.
 
Rodzilla said:
I have the CSR shield in my Demon, fit my 727 in tunnel with no issues. But I also installed engine trans together. I could see trying to deal with shield and installing separately could be a pain.
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I`ve got a shield if any body wants one, no strap, can buy them seperate at jegs, $15 plus shipping-----ain`t got room for it------bob
 
805moparkid said:
why not drive it as its supposed to be and do your burnouts in second... if you f up and burn out in first do the right thing and pack it up and go home... R&R and go play.

two threads about this going right now and its stupid, its like saying a running a suregrip with 600hp and cry when you blow the spider gearsout of it... DRIVER ERROR, it was the wrong part for the job.

do it right and start in second, not that F**king hard...
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___________________________________________________________________
Try reading his essay and you will extract that he left in 2nd Gear. :violent1: 727s also blow up in 2nd gear.
 
Both of our cars have Super Sprags and billet drums. I roll into the water box and out on the other side. I shift to second,grab the line lock,run it up to 4800 on the 3-step, shift to high gear,count 1,001-1,002-1,003, let go of the line lock and lift at the same time. Then I shift to low and roll into the beams. Always shift to low to roll into the beams,this sets the rollers against the race. The 727 I have behind the Hemi in my Coronet has been in 3 different cars,thousands of street miles,and over a thousand 10 second passes since 1995. I have always used the above method with zero failures other than freshen ups. And FWIW I hate the CSR shield on my car and will be putting a blanket back on it.
 
Don't forget another big factor is traction. (trust me I'm talking from experience) When you spin hook or hook spin and hook again it WILL eventually roll or snap the sprag.
 
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