First Start Up! Hyd. Cam Break In! Tonight!

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mopardude318

mopardude318

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Okay, any tips? check list? going for break in tonight.

Its a stock stroke 318, stock bottom end, RHS heads prepped by Brian @ IMM, 202/160 valves, beehive springs, Hughes 1.5 roller rockers. Compression is probably 8.7-8.9. (I know, kinda low)

Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam and lifters. 234/244 dur @ .050. 488/510 lift.
Performer RPM intake manifold. holley 650 spread bore carb.

I got Joe Gibs break in oil.

Also, rebuilt 904 trans with 1 qt in TQ converter, and 6 qts in trans. Probably will need more. How much more oil in trans?

I have 76 brand 91 octane fuel. going to pull the valve covers and dizzy, spin the oil pump and inspect oil to heads.

Any tips? what should I have initial, and total advance?
 
Also, is it okay to break in engine with open headers? Ha. they are fairly new TTI's but its all i got.
 
Make absolutely sure your cooling system is "burped." IF you run a heater, disconnect the hose up by the stat AT THE HEATER, and fill until you get water out of the hose, by "tipping it down"

Make sure the timing is set so you don't have to argue with it. Know how?

Make sure you have the valves lash adjusted so that they will safely run,

Make sure you have the fuel system primed so you don't have to grind on the starter.
 
It might be hard to hear any bad noises with open headers.
Maybe something to "spray" gas into carb to make sure carb keeps running.

Like Efriedrich said VIDEO!!
 
Keep a hose handy(water)
One battery terminal loose,just incase of any electrical issues
Extra trans fluid and funnel
Fire extinguisher LOL
Keep your finger crossed and Good Luck James!

Yes we want video of fire up!:happy1:
 
okay. how do i properly prime the engine??

I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed, i have dizzy out, and cam gear, inserted drill with priming rod. and turned clockwise untill i had pressure.

only thing is, my oil pressure gauge is now pinned past 100 psi and stays. that concerns everyone here. maybe the bypass is plugged? how many times do i ratchet the motor over while im priming?
 
okay got everything ready. I fired up, ran for a second and shot oil everywhere! blew the oil seal on my filter.....something is definitely wrong. :(
 
Yup---You have oil pump issues. You might find that cam unfriendly on the street in a little 'teen. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
Yup---You have oil pump issues. You might find that cam unfriendly on the street in a little 'teen. J.Rob
Click to expand...

Yeah, been there, done that. One heck of a lope and it can't get out of its own way under 3k, especially on a low compression mill.
 
I never do a break in with open headers just for the exact reason Steve suggests not to. You cannot hear anything except exhaust. That's all well and good and fun when you KNOW the engine is broken in with no problems, but until you get to that point, I would highly suggest muffling it somehow. Header mufflers are cheap and you could resell them.
 
mopardude318 said:
okay got everything ready. I fired up, ran for a second and shot oil everywhere! blew the oil seal on my filter.....something is definitely wrong. :(
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about this James.

To get around finding this out with the engine already in the car. I usually prime the engine on the Stand before it is installed. This way if something is leaking or you need to possibly pull the pan or fix anything it is easy to do with the engine out of the car.
 
I have a set of Thrush Header Mufflers sitting in my garage that will bolt up to your TTI's. You can use them if you want. Shipping would be just about as much as building a set though.
 
this may sound redundant but are you positive the oil filter is completely seated? maybe you got a filter with a bad O ring
 
Are these TTI headers ceramic-coated?

The cam break-in period may dis-color and/or peel the ceramic coating.
 
Have you got an oil pressure gauge on it? If the pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck.....and I've seen a few new ones that were, the pressure will be as high as the pump can possibly put out. That will blow the seal......and sometimes will blow the oil filter completely off the engine.
 
how do you prevent this??i should be brakeing in my cam in my teen as soon as lunati sends me my 60441..i ordered a high volume mopar pump from summit....
 
ou812 said:
First, stay away from HV pumps!
Click to expand...

x2
And second - Take any brandd new oil pump apart and clean and inspect it. If you carefully pull the pin, you should be able to get the plug out just by working the spring and valve. I normally run std pumps and get the MP high pressure relief kit so I have a new plug.
 
The Sasquach said:
Sounds like the pressure relief on the oil pump is stuck. David
Click to expand...

This is exactly what my brother thinks happened.

RAMM said:
Yup---You have oil pump issues. You might find that cam unfriendly on the street in a little 'teen. J.Rob
Click to expand...

Yea, I was told I MAY have minor issues on the street with this cam. But I got it basically for free so I used it.

MoparAnglia said:
Yeah, been there, done that. One heck of a lope and it can't get out of its own way under 3k, especially on a low compression mill.
Click to expand...

Yea, I do have 3:55 gears on a 24.5 Dia tire, and a 3000 stall TQ converter. So maybe that will help me out a bit. again, this is just a temporary motor. thank god.

StrokerScamp said:
I never do a break in with open headers just for the exact reason Steve suggests not to. You cannot hear anything except exhaust. That's all well and good and fun when you KNOW the engine is broken in with no problems, but until you get to that point, I would highly suggest muffling it somehow. Header mufflers are cheap and you could resell them.
Click to expand...

I understand. I have some old mufflers that I shoved into the collectors with a U-bolt clamp. That should do the trick.

Mad Dart said:
Sorry to hear about this James.

To get around finding this out with the engine already in the car. I usually prime the engine on the Stand before it is installed. This way if something is leaking or you need to possibly pull the pan or fix anything it is easy to do with the engine out of the car.
Click to expand...

I know it sucks buddy. But I'm taking it okay with the high hopes that my oil pressure relief spiring got seized.

Mad Dart said:
I have a set of Thrush Header Mufflers sitting in my garage that will bolt up to your TTI's. You can use them if you want. Shipping would be just about as much as building a set though.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer my friend, I hope I can get my idea to work with the muffs.

YoungBlood said:
Are these TTI headers ceramic-coated?

The cam break-in period may dis-color and/or peel the ceramic coating.
Click to expand...

Yea, they have the ceramic coating on them. At this point I dont care about the coating. I just want a running engine. lol

StrokerScamp said:
Have you got an oil pressure gauge on it? If the pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck.....and I've seen a few new ones that were, the pressure will be as high as the pump can possibly put out. That will blow the seal......and sometimes will blow the oil filter completely off the engine.
Click to expand...

Yes, I had a mechanical gauge on there. And while I was priming it, it shot to a 100 PSI, with the thoughts it will bleed down after it was running. Guess not.

I have a new Federal Mogul standard volume/standard pressure oil pump that I got from NAPA. New pan gasket, and more Joe Gibbs break in oil. I have a new NAPA Gold filter too, PN 1068.

I'm going to pull the pan and remove oil pump and inspect everything. Can I do that while motor is still in car?

-I'm out cleaning all the oil off my driveway now.
 
Yes you can do it in the car. Take the Steering link off undo the motor mounts and hold the engine up with your cherry picker, put some spacers/wood blocks or whatever under the motor mounts to hold it the engine in place and go after it........
 
okay..so has anyone removed the oil pan with engine in car AND TTI headers? Them headers sure make it tight. passenger side header hits the oil pan rail...any tips?
 
okay i got it. had to unbolt both headers and leave em hangin. (didnt wanna do that, oh well) got the pan and pump off. found my problem. as was stated, the pressure relief was stuck. that thing wouldnt budge. could not get it to move. installing a new pump today, hopefully i can get it all buttoned up by this evening.

Yall know the torque specs for the oil pump?
also need the torque specs for the windage tray bolts.

thanks for the help
 
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