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69dodgedart360

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Didnt go as fast as I was hoping but had a lot of fun. Car wheel hopped like crazy during the burnout and could not get a decent launch no matter what. Felt like it launched ok, just needed higher stall converter. It currently just has SS springs with monroe shocks. I had MT Et Streets on it and aired them down to 18psi and launched from about 1500rpm. The car has an OEM converter which flashed at 23-2400rpm. Timeslip is below:
R/T .274
60ft 2.12
330' 5.839
660' 8.826
mph 82.50
1000 11.42
ET 13.61
MPH 102.62
The car went thru the lights at 4700rpm (3.55 gears w/ 26" tire)

I am thinking 3.91s, 32-3500rpm converter, and working on the suspension. Stiffer shocks, clamping the springs, and a pinion snubber will be things to look into to help improve ET.

How does the time slip look? Does it look like it is ET'ing where it should be? Should I even dig into the motor? I would like to get this down to high 12's.

Thanks
 
I have found through other posts that C-body shocks work well? Or would the mancini racing drag shocks be better?
 
A time slip like that is pretty typical of a, 1st time out, unsorted street car. The positives I see are, you're making decent power & the converter is just about locked at the top end...Meaning with that mph/rpm, it's very efficient upstairs. The negative is, that same converter looks to be killing you on the front half?

All the things you mentioned looking into will be positive steps toward your goal, but I think a well built 9.5" converter will be your best bang for the buck at this point.

I'll just add that I've run a bunch of cars before in a similar configuration to your current setup, and most of them et'd better by leaving as hard as possible off the stock converter vs flashing it. Yes that takes out much of the suspension "action", but in it's current form, you're not hitting it all that hard to begin with :). That will be a different story after some mods though.

Oh, and don't forget to get your timing in as quick as the engine/fuel will allow...

Good Luck & keep us informed. :thumbrig:
 
E.T. matches the speed pretty well. I don't know anything about your motor. It might be underachieving, or not. I agree that the '60 foot could drop, which would lower the ET.
 
Get your chassis problem sorted out before going to a high stall convertor because it will only magnify your current issues.

I would try a set of good shocks that are the correct length and a pinion snubber. Make sure the front of your springs have the clamps on them and cut the clamps off the rear. Also check your pinion angle. You can shim it if needed.

In regards to trap RPM, I don't know your engine but in my combo I'd run it though the traps in 2nd gear which would be about 6800rpm in your case. But if you can get to 60 foot better that may change. You could also try different shift points.
 
Lol! You WERE hoping for low 13's? NOW high 12's!?? lol , NOW your a drag racer !!! Lol the reason I laughed so much is you sound like me. At 102 mph you sould be able to see the original low 13's you were originally seeking with a tad lower 60ft. TRACTION ! Stop the wheel hop. Traction bar's - pinion snubber (and I'm not trying to open the debate between the two, we can save that for another thread thank you) I didn't have the wheel hop problem. I just had wheelspin problem and what helped in my case, but did not cure it was lowering the tires (the same exact ones you have) to 15 pounds and getting a real good smokey burn off (linelock) and it lowered my 60 foot time from 2.0 to 1.8 which personified down the track to get almost a half second better. beyond that you could lose a little weight on the car if possible? Or a small 150 shot of nitrous would get you likely into the high Elevens which is something I may try next year, but only a small amout? lol!! but here we go again we're drag racers sometimes we just can't get enough! Lol
 
Get some good shocks that are long enough. Wheel hop on a mopar is usually from the suspension topping out.

Use a pinion snubber for what it works best, propping the door open to let a breeze in the garage. :)

MPH in a really good chassis is high 12 range with a 1.80ish 60'

Keep at it, you have plenty of ET still in the car. Right now it's all locked up in the 60'.
 
Not bad for first time out. Definitely needs a stall converter and more gear, will help your 60 foot. Some drag shocks would not hurt either, especially if its wheel hoping. I have some competition engineering 3 way shocks on my dart with SS springs, no snuber and no wheel hop street or strip. Then you can tune from there.
 

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I had the opposite problem as you the first time I took my new combo out. I had a 1.94 sixty foot but a 13.5 et at 98. Change one thing at a time and see what each change does.
 
Deffinately get some drag shocks and a pinion snubber they DO work been using one for years..more converter would help and air those drag radials down to 15 psi...
 
Most improvement will be found by having a friend watch the car leave every time from the same vantage point. Need to know what the car does or doesn't do. Does the front end come up? Does it come up evenly? Does the rear suspension separate? How much if at all? Does the car go straight? Does the back end swing out? Most street cars have very little suspension action. Ex. Rear suspension only separates maybe an inch. Longer shocks wont help! Stiffer valving might be wrong also. I think first step would be gears. At least a 4.10. you don't need a different snubber and be careful airing down your tires. I know slicks get evil real quick when the air gets a little low. Have fun!
 
Old Man Rick: Thanks for the info, yeah I think a converter is needed for sure but I do drive it a lot on the freeway (30 miles one way) so I am a bit worried about trans temps. Thanks for the advice on just trying to stall it as high as I can and launch. The car launches soft and the stall and street gearing making it ssssllloooowwww out of the hole.
Motor:
10:1 360
X Heads that are supposedly ported but I dont know
Edelbrock Air Gap
Demon 750cfm Vacuum Secondaries, green pump cam 72/80 Jets (if I went with any higher Jets the car surged and was super rich so I settled on this for jetting)
Comp XE284 that was advanced to the + marking on the comp timing chain so I assume an additional 4 degrees to the additional 4 degrees built into it.
TTI Headers
MSD Everything with 2 silver light springs in it

The car launches straight, the front end lifts slightly, and the rear end hardly squats down, only a little bit. Very soft launch with wheel spin.
My Dad took video that I will try to upload of one of my runs.
 
With a good trans cooler and good torque converter I would not worry about driving any where. Drive my dart all over, its 90 miles to the nearest track. 3800 stall and drives like a factory one til you put your foot in it. You will get there, first time out I think my dart ran 13.7 or so.
 

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Back end squat is going the wrong way. Back end should lift. If it lifted a lot that's when longer shocks are needed. See the relationship.
 
I ran this past Sunday for the first time this year and I have a 69 Barracuda fastback all steel street car and it weighs in around 3400 pounds with me in it. Your #s are where I was at just a couple of years ago and I ran a stock converter with 323's.I switched gears,converter and pulled the str 12 crossram off and now run a 9.5 converter that was built for the crossram so it flashes at 4500. I also changed to a set of 4.10 gears and the RPM air gap and 950 hp Holley.I run Nitto 555s drag radials at 16.5 pounds and foot brake the car at the line at 1200 rpms and let it rip from there.
ran a 12.01 at 111.32 with race gas
ran a 12.34 at 109.94 on pump gas 87 octane(my 60 foot was bad)
This is a stock bore and stroke 360 with 9.5 compression
 
hangn0ut said:
Most improvement will be found by having a friend watch the car leave every time from the same vantage point. Need to know what the car does or doesn't do. Does the front end come up? Does it come up evenly? Does the rear suspension separate? How much if at all? Does the car go straight? Does the back end swing out? Most street cars have very little suspension action. Ex. Rear suspension only separates maybe an inch. Longer shocks wont help! Stiffer valving might be wrong also. I think first step would be gears. At least a 4.10. you don't need a different snubber and be careful airing down your tires. I know slicks get evil real quick when the air gets a little low. Have fun!
Click to expand...

hangn0ut said:
Back end squat is going the wrong way. Back end should lift. If it lifted a lot that's when longer shocks are needed. See the relationship.
Click to expand...

I agree with every thing above except the "longer shocks wont help".

SS Spring and Long Shock go hand in hand. Installing them give me at least 2" of lift in my car(E body)..... will raise at least another inch when stalled up. Have no idea if it raise up more on launch. (bet it does.)

69dodgedart360 When you said it was wheel hopping. I'm thinking,SS spring, wheel hopping? NO WAY! Then 70aarcuda hit the nail on the head!

You need a better converter, but Long Shock is your first step in my opinion.
 
It would be the valving on extension that the long shocks come with that gave you the rise. Jack your car up by the body and see how far the axle separates before the tires lift off the ground. Do that with stock shocks and you get what? 4-5 inches before the shock tops out. Maybe less. But his car squats. Never heard of SS springs allowing a car to squat. The car needs shocks that extend easily,not necessarily long ones.
 
SS springs with drag shocks(2nd pic shows the rear leaf springs are spread)
 

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hangn0ut said:
It would be the valving on extension that the long shocks come with that gave you the rise. Jack your car up by the body and see how far the axle separates before the tires lift off the ground. Do that with stock shocks and you get what? 4-5 inches before the shock tops out. Maybe less. But his car squats. Never heard of SS springs allowing a car to squat. The car needs shocks that extend easily,not necessarily long ones.
Click to expand...


I can agree that better valving will help........but you have to buy a new shock to get it!
Why not get a longer shock, when you buy?
Every SS spring install i have seen, jack up, the rear end.(unless modified)

I have never seen a SS Spring squat either. Have you seen him Race? i don't recall him saying any thing about "Squat".
 
Cudafever said:
I can agree that better valving will help........but you have to buy a new shock to get it!
Why not get a longer shock, when you buy?
Every SS spring install i have seen, jack up, the rear end.(unless modified)

I have never seen a SS Spring squat either. Have you seen him Race? i don't recall him saying any thing about "Squat".
Click to expand...

real superstock springs require longer shocks !
 
Reread post 13. He might also try jetting down the secondaries and jet for best MPH. and id those springs. If those are not SS springs and long shocks are used they could potentionally bottom out and be damaged.
 
I had super stock springs on my Demon and did not like the rear jacked up so I put 2in lowering blocks between the rear and springs. I also had the MP long shocks and a pinion snubber. My best 60 ft on motor was a 1.49 and a 1.36 on a 100 shot of N2O.
 

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Leaving while squeezing. Too cool! Nice ride! Assuming an automatic,how much higher did the converter stall on nitrous? And if a manual,,,,hats off to ya.
 
I do not know how much the convertor flashed on the N2O but I am sure it was a lot. It a 8 in 5500 stall PTC convertor in it. If you do not spray it when you leave I do not see much benefit from using it. It does not help much if you spray down track.
 
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