FiTech EFI system

-
yes, it is doable but would need the right cam and mpi manifold w la bolts. Easier with EQ magnum bolt heads and correct cam. As inexpensive as the Magnums are, it would be cheaper to just drop in a magnum and sell the la. A low mile 5.2 w harness and pcm for $500 is common. Buy a pan and a fuel tank/pump. Build or buy a harness and its burn out time:burnout:
 
Where did you get your air cleaner? I need to do something like that because I dont have much clearance under my hood

jbc426 said:
The only downside to this is that you will have very high pressure fuel running the entire length of the car in various home-brewed, fuel line configurations.

Using a surge tank set-up with return line still requires a fuel lines from front to rear, however that fuel pressure is typically from just above 0 psi to 1-2 psi depending on line size, configuration etc.

The high pressure lines to and from the surge tank to the fuel rails are much shorter when the tank is mounted up front.

I use metal lines, fuel injection hose and double EFI screw clamps on the low pressure side; and Earl's lines and fittings on the high pressure side.
Click to expand...
 
So would having a fitting installed in the tank be the best option to run the vent line back to? I have a brand new tank and want to make sure I have all the bases covered before I install it back into the car.
 
cwirth7 said:
So would having a fitting installed in the tank be the best option to run the vent line back to? I have a brand new tank and want to make sure I have all the bases covered before I install it back into the car.
Click to expand...

yes, i would install the vent fitting while the tank is out, new, and dry.
 
Starting the install of my FiTech EFI system and directions for O2 sensor says to install 2-4" after header collector. I can not install there due do my exhaust set-up. My options are install right in the header collector or approx 10" from collector.
What say you??
 
cwirth7 said:
So would having a fitting installed in the tank be the best option to run the vent line back to? I have a brand new tank and want to make sure I have all the bases covered before I install it back into the car.
Click to expand...

a great place to put a return is in the square dimple above the sending unit hole . just bore a hole and braze in a fitting . I like using silver braze (silver soldier)

























9
 
63Belvedere said:
Starting the install of my FiTech EFI system and directions for O2 sensor says to install 2-4" after header collector. I can not install there due do my exhaust set-up. My options are install right in the header collector or approx 10" from collector.
What say you??
Click to expand...

I installed mine in collector about 2 inches from end. It works good. Make sure you have no air leaks.
 
magnummopar said:
Its filling a niche of FI for driveway mechanics on a budget and sounds like it works pretty well, certainly better than some of the $2K+ big name systems. Its still cheaper to install factory multi port system. Factory might be a bit more if you figure in flash/tuner to make up for non computer friendly cam but a better system.
I would be skeptical of the electronics of the system sitting on top of hot manifold but time will answer that question.

Lots of these systems have come and gone in last 20 years, holley pro-jection(sucked!!) and lets not forget Edelbrock Proflow injection, worked pretty well if you are a retired nasa computer programming engineer. Accel was problematic. GM TB crap was just that, GM crap. Worked but not for any real performance.

I still think the factory Magnum multi port is one of the best systems going and with tuning, well capable of big HP numbers, cheaper than anything,replacment parts at 7-11 and great MPG if built right. Easily obtainable for $200, throw in a harness for $700 and they both need a fuel pump so I think the cost is very similar.

Keep us informed of long term testing guys. I would be interested in any MPG figures you might have just for morbid curiosity
Click to expand...

While I certainly agree with the MPFI being a good system, the stock 5.2/5.9 magnum system is a bit of a mess. The crank sensor is a serious issue for a lot of people. The computer tuning on those is a mess, and the stock intake is pretty much garbage for performance use.

If you went with a hughes intake or an M1 4bbl for a magnum engine or the Edelbrock Super Victor EFI I am using on my LA 340, and went with a stand alone (Megasquirt, etc) with a 36-1 or 60-2 crank wheel, it'll do you really well. Totally dig the Megasquirt 3/ MSX. I spend the extra money for the MS3 Pro, but the cheaper one can do the same stuff, just not as nice. My engine had condensation dripping off of it it was so humid, and it was 41 degrees and it started and ran like a new car. Never missed once. The coil near plug is also a great upgrade.
 
We are getting off the subject here, I keep going back to these new posts hoping to here more info about the Fitech installs.
 
magnummopar said:
I still think the factory Magnum multi port is one of the best systems going and with tuning, well capable of big HP numbers, cheaper than anything,replacment parts at 7-11 and great MPG if built right. Easily obtainable for $200, throw in a harness for $700 and they both need a fuel pump so I think the cost is very similar
Click to expand...

But what about hood clearance? The factory "beer keg" manifold is really tall. I haven't measured one but by looking I'd be real surprised if it'd fit under the hood of an a-body without cutting a hole in the hood and adding a scoop. Something I would not want to do

My apologies for posting off subject
 
I've been driving mine now for about 2 weeks, it runs good, but I have a bog/hesitation coming off of a coast situation, maybe doing 40 mph, and then slightly tipping back into throttle. The AFR shoots up to 18-20 and it takes a second to recover. It's kind of irritating. If it were a carb, I'd say it needed a different cam on the accelerator pump. I guess I'm going to have to log it and send it to FiTech to figure out.
 
rednesss said:
I've been driving mine now for about 2 weeks, it runs good, but I have a bog/hesitation coming off of a coast situation, maybe doing 40 mph, and then slightly tipping back into throttle. The AFR shoots up to 18-20 and it takes a second to recover. It's kind of irritating. If it were a carb, I'd say it needed a different cam on the accelerator pump. I guess I'm going to have to log it and send it to FiTech to figure out.
Click to expand...

weird.. this kit self learning?
 
For those asking about hood clearance: I have the FI tech EFI with a K&N drop base air cleaner from Jegs. 1 7/8 inch drop base. On an eddy air gap manifold. You have to dimple the base of the air cleaner to clear the fuel inlet. No big deal. And the hood clears by about a 1/2 inch.
 
rednesss said:
I've been driving mine now for about 2 weeks, it runs good, but I have a bog/hesitation coming off of a coast situation, maybe doing 40 mph, and then slightly tipping back into throttle. The AFR shoots up to 18-20 and it takes a second to recover. It's kind of irritating. If it were a carb, I'd say it needed a different cam on the accelerator pump. I guess I'm going to have to log it and send it to FiTech to figure out.
Click to expand...

I had similar issues, even a backfire thru the throttle body. 2 things I changed.

I wound up setting my accel pump settings to about 33. Got rid of hesitations. Fitech advised each motor will be different. I would get a lean spike on throttle tip in, so I knew it needed more.

Also when coasting, or off the gas, if the MAP falls below 28 ( i think ) is the default, it cuts fuel, then returns it when the map increases. I found mine seemed to hesitate at first too.

I wound up lowering the map to keep the fuel running longer with the increased vacuum and re engaging earlier.

It took some tweaking, but it's enjoyable changing it from the car and then driving some more to check the changes effects.

Happy to assist if you need anything else. I will be taking mine for a spin on Sunday, once i clean off the foot of snow ( not kidding).. It's Minus 16 celcius here today and I am checking to make sure driveability is good when the temp drops. Going to try short trips every weekend throughout the winter, as long as the roads are dry.

Ken
 
33? Wow, I've only bumped mine up to 7. Guess I can keep going. I also lowered the decel Map fuel cut from 28 to 23, and coming back on at 25. My map can fall as low as 18 when coasting.
 
Looking for input on the fuel line sizes people are running. I am running an in tank Walbro pump and have 550 HP and torque. I was considering using the stock 5/16 fuel line as the return with AN 6 from the throttle body. Is this sufficient for the return?

What are people using for size and line type for the high pressure line from the tank to the throttle body?
 
Rocket said:
Looking for input on the fuel line sizes people are running. I am running an in tank Walbro pump and have 550 HP and torque. I was considering using the stock 5/16 fuel line as the return with AN 6 from the throttle body. Is this sufficient for the return?

What are people using for size and line type for the high pressure line from the tank to the throttle body?
Click to expand...

Most recommend like sized returns with minimal bends etc to reduce the likelihood of a pressure increase on return.
 
cwirth7 said:
Where did you get your air cleaner? I need to do something like that because I dont have much clearance under my hood
Click to expand...

Pick & Pull has this lower profile one. I've since put a slightly taller one on and plumbed the filter on the opposite side of the engine. They look almost identical, but the latest one is about an inch taller. I thought the super low profile one I had on was restricting the airflow. They both came off those Jeeps Cherokees with 5.2's & 5.9's. I cut off and used a small section of a second air box as a go-between connection for the K&N.

The flange height of the stock beer keg manifold and the Hughes Airgap is virtually the same once the throttle body injector flange adapter is bolted on. I'm running all Hughes Big Gulp throttle body, ported Airgap and hand blended & Super Prep'd chamber CNC'd and decked Eddies with a small Hyd roller spec'd by Dave. It's all managed by an SCT tuned factory ECM and Hotwire Harness. It's the only way to go. Plug and play baby!
 

Attachments

  • oil trap 2.jpg
    54.2 KB · Views: 957
  • eng1.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 886
  • eng3.jpg
    34.8 KB · Views: 907
I'm about 60% done my install. I usually take 2 or 3x longer than what they say to install something...lol But I also had to do some extra work. I removed my Holley blue pump and installed mechanical pump back on so had to change some of the main fuel line. And I had to extend the wires about 20" for the O2 sensor. Not sure if others had to do that but I found that harness way to short to run it properly and out of the way. I have FCC mounted and high pressure line from that to the throttle body and return line back to the tank all done. I had to order some new fuel line and fittings to run from mechanical pump to FCC so waiting for that to come in.
What did you guys do about the coolant sensor install location?? I am running big block and I have my mechanical temp guage in the normal spot on my aluminum water pump and have the factory stock electric sensor in the small hole in my water pump. Not sure there is any room anywhere esle on that water pump to drill for the supplied FiTech water temp sensor?? I have a plug in the front of my block just below the drivers side head that seem to go to coolant but that hole is too small for the suppled FiTech fitting and not really sure I should be drilling the hole bigger in the block!
 
jbc426 said:
Most recommend like sized returns with minimal bends etc to reduce the likelihood of a pressure increase on return.
Click to expand...


Thanks for that clarification. I was hoping to run the 5/16 back but figure 5/16 to the throttle body is too small.

What size are you all running from the tank and returning to the tank when you have the high pressure pump in or near the tank?
 
63Belvedere said:
I'm about 60% done my install. I usually take 2 or 3x longer than what they say to install something...lol But I also had to do some extra work. I removed my Holley blue pump and installed mechanical pump back on so had to change some of the main fuel line. And I had to extend the wires about 20" for the O2 sensor. Not sure if others had to do that but I found that harness way to short to run it properly and out of the way. I have FCC mounted and high pressure line from that to the throttle body and return line back to the tank all done. I had to order some new fuel line and fittings to run from mechanical pump to FCC so waiting for that to come in.
What did you guys do about the coolant sensor install location?? I am running big block and I have my mechanical temp guage in the normal spot on my aluminum water pump and have the factory stock electric sensor in the small hole in my water pump. Not sure there is any room anywhere esle on that water pump to drill for the supplied FiTech water temp sensor?? I have a plug in the front of my block just below the drivers side head that seem to go to coolant but that hole is too small for the suppled FiTech fitting and not really sure I should be drilling the hole bigger in the block!
Click to expand...

I put a t fitting into the heater coolant line from the top of my block to the heater/ Left the original temp sensor and both sensors giving virtually the same temp when running.

Had it out for a quick trip in the snow today.. love the way it starts and runs when the weather is cooler.
 
Would it be better to run these throttle bodies on a regular intake instead of an Air Gap? The only reason I put an Air Gap on was for the carburetor to try to stay cooler. That's not really such an issue with TBI with pressurized fuel at 58 psi going to it. I'm just wondering if the longer runners and intake volume is good or bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top