Gas Mileage query Holley 318

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Holey on the strip Edelbrock on the street or, Carter I say that because I ran a 600 Holley on a 318. I don't remember the mileage but it wasn't good. We are talking 2003 or 2004 and I still spent 50 bucks driving the car on weekends.
 
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I bought an AFR meter years ago and always weld a bung just behind the header for an O2 sensor. You can really see how horrible carbs are for economy. They are crude mechanisms and you need to keep the AFR relatively rich. Yeah a modern carb that you can get a metering rod, spring and jet kit would be good if you plan on tuning. How old are Thermoquads now? 45-50 years?

If you have an O2 sensor you should be able to tune a carb up like EFI. If you can’t that’s on you. They aren’t crude and they will get fuel mileage very close to EFI.
 
Double pumpers are performance oriented. I have a OOTB 600 vac sec Holley, that needs a kit, that you can have for shipping. I promise you will get better mileage
 
I must be doing something wrong in jetting for my Sixpack, they are in the range on ctr carb and outboards, but my plugs always look terrible and the floor of the intake is always wet. I foul 02 sensors. I think that in part it's the accelerator pump. I will stop here, hijacking this thread.
 
Jason, 'coz your in oz.....
When I got my GTO, 3700 lbs, with a tired 389 engine, 2 speed auto, 3.08 axle, I fitted an Mopar 850 TQ & elec ign. I got 23 mpg going from Sydney's north shore to Gosford, about 40 miles. Slow moving weekend traffic getting out of Syd, up hill down dale to Gosford.
That is about 20 mpg in US gallons.
 
The Street Demon is a good modern "replacement" for the Thermoquad, I have the 750cfm version on my 360 but they also make a 625cfm one. I like TQs but these days it's hard to find good cores and parts, plus you need an intake with a spreadbore flange which there aren't many of those around.

I'm actually looking to switch over to a Holley DP-style carb because my Duster is gradually becoming more of a weekend warrior than a street car and gas mileage isn't as high of a priority as it used to be. Not that you can't get good mileage with a double pumper it's just not as easy and doesn't adapt well to changing atmospheric conditions like a Carter/Edelbrock or the Street Demon. There's also the new Edelbrock AVS-2 that comes with annular boosters in the primaries which should be great for gas mileage and street driving.
 
Jason I have a VJ Charger with 410 in it ! has a fairly big roller cam,11 to 1 forged pistons and trick flow heads on it . engine puts out 425 rear wheel HP , so about 530 or so flywheel. Has a five speed TKO box in it and 3.91 gears. Does about 2700rpm @ 110 kph. Last trip to Chryslers on the Murray I got 21 mpg out of it. I also have two 318 cars. A VJ charger 770 with 318 (stock) and a CM Regal SE with a recond 318 with edelbrock heads, twin 2 1/2 exhasts and pacemaker headers. They seem to get the same fuel economy as the 410.
Our fuel by the way in premium is 98 octane but is rated different to your US fuels, also our imperial gallon is a little larger than the US gallon and the pumps say the unleaded fuel can contain up to 5 % of ethanol. Hope this helps.
 
The Street Demon is a good modern "replacement" for the Thermoquad, I have the 750cfm version on my 360 but they also make a 625cfm one. I like TQs but these days it's hard to find good cores and parts, plus you need an intake with a spreadbore flange which there aren't many of those around.

I'm actually looking to switch over to a Holley DP-style carb because my Duster is gradually becoming more of a weekend warrior than a street car and gas mileage isn't as high of a priority as it used to be. Not that you can't get good mileage with a double pumper it's just not as easy and doesn't adapt well to changing atmospheric conditions like a Carter/Edelbrock or the Street Demon. There's also the new Edelbrock AVS-2 that comes with annular boosters in the primaries which should be great for gas mileage and street driving.


Uhhh, what? The Holley operates on the same principles and physics as any other carb. It is affected the exact same by atmospheric changes as any other carb.

So you buy what is built as a performance carb and the you complain that it’s harder to tune than a carb was designed for emissions and fuel economy? That doesn’t make sense.

The Holley (I only use clones I will not buy a Holley) will do everything a Carterbrock will do and make more power doing it.
 
Wow, back to the first post. A holley double pumper not getting stellar mileage? Imagine that. :lol:
 
Wow, back to the first post. A holley double pumper not getting stellar mileage? Imagine that. :lol:


Only if it’s poorly tuned, and sadly most are. Special thanks to Holley for decades of bad technical information and never correcting it.

Holley can kiss my big, hairy white behind.

Rant off. For now.
 
There are a lot of variables missing, to make much of a Judgement, and we are all guessing, so here is something you can do. that I guarantee you will bring a smile to your face.
1) get your coolant temp UP, to say 195*F. Do what you gotta do to make her reliable.
2) disconnect the secondaries and block them closed.
3) Make sure you have installed both a working vacuum advance and a PCV valve.
4) rev your warmed up engine to cruise rpm, say 2200, and read your timing there. Write it down. If you don't have at least 45/50 degrees, there is your first problem.
5) lets see what your engine wants;
rev it up to cruise rpm, say 2200, and try to keep the rpm there thru the rest of this test. Add some advance and simultaneously reduce the throttle opening, to maintain your chosen rpm. Repeat until more advance fails to get you more rpm. Install your timing light and read the timing. Subtract three degrees and write it down.
Return your timing to where it was before you started the test. and then disconnect the Vcan, Rev it back up to 2200 and again read the timing, this new number is your mechanical timing at 2200. Lets say this number is 25 degrees.
What number did you get? Whatever it was, that is the number she wants for cruise timing. Lets say it was 50*. You have 25 mechanical and need, in this example, 50; so you are gonna have to find 25 more.
5) to get that number, you will very likely have to modify your Vcan by filling off a portion of the stops. But the Vcan can only be modified to 22/24 degrees, when it runs out of travel internally. So then to get the rest you are gonna have to add idle-timing or make your flyweights run out a hair quicker. But no matter what you do, you gotta keep the Power-Timing in check, at 34/36 degrees with your 95 fuel, to eliminate detonation. If you do this right, and your cylinder pressure is around 155psi or less, you should be able to downgrade your octane rating.
Now; on a flat, level, concrete hiway, at or near sealevel, with no winds, a reasonably close AFR, and nothing dragging on the car; I predict an easy 22/24 mpgImperial, depending a lil on your CCP(cranking cylinder Pressure), More is better. 22Imp is 17.6USg
Now is the time to start fooling with your carb. Go back and read rat bastids post #35. If yur carb is new, do not waste yur cash on buying a different one. The gains are minimal, and either carb can do pretty much the same thing. Ideally you would want a spreadbore for this application, but on a spreadbore intake without an adapter. That's like a thousand dollar touch around here and I can only imagine what it would cost you. Do the math on that and see how many years/miles it would take, just to break even.
> Oh before I forget, after you come off the hiway, don't forget to reconnect the Secondaries, lol.
Happy HotRodding
 
Only if it’s poorly tuned, and sadly most are. Special thanks to Holley for decades of bad technical information and never correcting it.

Holley can kiss my big, hairy white behind.

Rant off. For now.
They made them basically non adjustable for how many decades? Holley sucks. I do like the little Street Demon, though.
 
Uhhh, what? The Holley operates on the same principles and physics as any other carb. It is affected the exact same by atmospheric changes as any other carb.

So you buy what is built as a performance carb and the you complain that it’s harder to tune than a carb was designed for emissions and fuel economy? That doesn’t make sense.

The Holley (I only use clones I will not buy a Holley) will do everything a Carterbrock will do and make more power doing it.

I'll admit I have very little experience messing with Holley-style carbs. So it is possible to tune a DP-type carb for good mileage without sacrificing throttle response? I was under the impression it was pretty difficult to have both. I want a DP on my car because it is more tunable and there's no delay from waiting for a secondary air door to open up but again I haven't messed with one yet myself, I don't know. I did test an old Mighty Demon years ago but it was a "race" carb with no choke, PCV or vacuum ports so I sold it before I tried tuning it. Also did an initial setup on a 770 Street Avenger (vac secondary) for my cousin years ago but never got to drive and tune it to run its best as the car was basically a roller with a 440 in it.
 
I'll admit I have very little experience messing with Holley-style carbs. So it is possible to tune a DP-type carb for good mileage without sacrificing throttle response? I was under the impression it was pretty difficult to have both. I want a DP on my car because it is more tunable and there's no delay from waiting for a secondary air door to open up but again I haven't messed with one yet myself, I don't know. I did test an old Mighty Demon years ago but it was a "race" carb with no choke, PCV or vacuum ports so I sold it before I tried tuning it. Also did an initial setup on a 770 Street Avenger (vac secondary) for my cousin years ago but never got to drive and tune it to run its best as the car was basically a roller with a 440 in it.


Yes, you can get good mileage and not give up any response or power.

BUT!!! I would suggest not starting with a Holley branded carb. I’d use a clone. My favorite carb is the BLP BX4. It’s just a real nice, well thought out piece. If you have the budget and you have enough mechanical ability you can buy the BX4 in a builders kit and do it yourself.

You can buy the builders kit and pay a few bucks extra and have them install the boosters because I’m guessing you don’t have the booster installation tool.

Once you get the builders kits it’s just a matter of drilling and tapping some of the holes and drilling some small holes in the brass and screwing it togther.

You can do it. Most guys on here are fully capable of doing it, but it’s like standing on the edge of a cliff. You don’t know what you don’t know and decades of poor technical resources has retarded understanding Holley carbs. I blame Holley for that.

The good news is we have guys like Shrinker and Tuner who have spent their lives doing carbs and ignitions and such and they free.y share their knowledge.

In the small block forum (I think that’s where it is but I may be wrong) Hysteric posted a link to a bunch of technical stuff written by both Tuner and Shrinker. That’s an incredible resource to learn from.

Mattax has posted some really good links to stuff both guys answered. Search for stuff he has posted.

Ignition timing and carb tuning go hand in hand and both guys cover all kinds of that stuff. Somewhere Shrinker posted at least one great paper on plug reading. Maybe Hysteric knows where to find it.

Again, research that stuff will make your learning curve much shorter.

There is also the NACA 49 paper. You can search it and print it off. What was published in that paper still stands today on carburation and carb function.
 
Yes, you can get good mileage and not give up any response or power.

BUT!!! I would suggest not starting with a Holley branded carb. I’d use a clone. My favorite carb is the BLP BX4. It’s just a real nice, well thought out piece. If you have the budget and you have enough mechanical ability you can buy the BX4 in a builders kit and do it yourself.

You can buy the builders kit and pay a few bucks extra and have them install the boosters because I’m guessing you don’t have the booster installation tool.

Once you get the builders kits it’s just a matter of drilling and tapping some of the holes and drilling some small holes in the brass and screwing it togther.

You can do it. Most guys on here are fully capable of doing it, but it’s like standing on the edge of a cliff. You don’t know what you don’t know and decades of poor technical resources has retarded understanding Holley carbs. I blame Holley for that.

The good news is we have guys like Shrinker and Tuner who have spent their lives doing carbs and ignitions and such and they free.y share their knowledge.

In the small block forum (I think that’s where it is but I may be wrong) Hysteric posted a link to a bunch of technical stuff written by both Tuner and Shrinker. That’s an incredible resource to learn from.

Mattax has posted some really good links to stuff both guys answered. Search for stuff he has posted.

Ignition timing and carb tuning go hand in hand and both guys cover all kinds of that stuff. Somewhere Shrinker posted at least one great paper on plug reading. Maybe Hysteric knows where to find it.

Again, research that stuff will make your learning curve much shorter.

There is also the NACA 49 paper. You can search it and print it off. What was published in that paper still stands today on carburation and carb function.

Cool good to know. Yeah I didn't intend on getting an actual Holley brand carb. I know opinions of him vary around here but I have David Vizard's book "How to Super Tune and Modify Holley Carburetors"
 
If you have an O2 sensor you should be able to tune a carb up like EFI. If you can’t that’s on you. They aren’t crude and they will get fuel mileage very close to EFI.
Maybe stop and think for a second before implying I don't know how to tune. There is no computer on a carb engine maintaining a constant AFR. The AFR on a carb engine is all over the place. Also, try running a carb at 14.0 or better and see how driveable the car is.
 
Maybe stop and think for a second before implying I don't know how to tune. There is no computer on a carb engine maintaining a constant AFR. The AFR on a carb engine is all over the place. Also, try running a carb at 14.0 or better and see how driveable the car is.

My last 360 was 10.5:1 compression with Magnum heads and zero-deck pistons (fast combustion) and I was able to run that at 15.5-16:1 AFR at cruise. Wideband O2 sensor is super helpful in tuning a carb'd engine. Depends on the carb too that was with a Carter AFB, with the Street Demon I still get better mileage than the Carter although it doesn't like to run any leaner than 14.5-15:1 at cruise. Not really sure what that's about. Idle AFR is really tough to go leaner than 14:1 on any carb'd engine though that part is true.

Obviously a carb can't react to changing conditions on the fly but you can tune it pretty damn perfect with a wideband for the conditions at that time.
 
Maybe stop and think for a second before implying I don't know how to tune. There is no computer on a carb engine maintaining a constant AFR. The AFR on a carb engine is all over the place. Also, try running a carb at 14.0 or better and see how driveable the car is.

Ok. Look at what you just said. The AFR is moving around. There are reasons why that happens. You can deal with it.

I know lots of guys running 14.0 and leaner with a carb. It’s not just the carb that makes that happen.
 
Ok. Look at what you just said. The AFR is moving around. There are reasons why that happens. You can deal with it.

I know lots of guys running 14.0 and leaner with a carb. It’s not just the carb that makes that happen.
It doesn't make sense to say a carb'd engine can be as fuel efficient as an EFI engine. There is a reason fuel injection in one form or another replaced carbs 30 years ago.
 
I'll admit I have very little experience messing with Holley-style carbs. So it is possible to tune a DP-type carb for good mileage without sacrificing throttle response? I was under the impression it was pretty difficult to have both. I want a DP on my car because it is more tunable and there's no delay from waiting for a secondary air door to open up but again I haven't messed with one yet myself, I don't know. I did test an old Mighty Demon years ago but it was a "race" carb with no choke, PCV or vacuum ports so I sold it before I tried tuning it. Also did an initial setup on a 770 Street Avenger (vac secondary) for my cousin years ago but never got to drive and tune it to run its best as the car was basically a roller with a 440 in it.
Ok this is, I wanna say, you have been misinformed. Ima trying to be nice.
1) ANY carb can be tuned for economy. They ALL work the same. Some are just easier to access the circuits. And some, were just never designed for economy which does NOT mean that you can't change that.
2) there is no good reason to run a DP carb on the street, unless your engine has enough power to spin the tires below say 3000; then the DP carb is good for showing that off.
3) the Vacuum-Secondary , or Air-Valve Secondary, or any such-type, carb, is well able to be over adjusted to spin the tires too. And if your engine is of a decent compression design, and the carb-size well-matched, the supposed "lag" will be nonexistent.
4) in both cases or any case, a great deal of how a carb performs will be compression and ignition timing related. If you throw a too big carb Vacuum Secondary onto a low-compression slug with stock ignition timing and a lo-stall convertor, yes, you will have a dog. It's not the carb's fault, and you can spend hours and hours attempting to tune with no good results. Then you install a DP anything, and the POS combo wakes up.... sorta. But hang on, you only think the DP solved your problem. You just band-aided a pos combo, is all.
5) What's cylinder pressure got to do with it?
Nothing; it's Not the pressure. It's the sharp vacuum-signal created by the falling piston in the small combustion chamber. All cams have overlap, yes even the lowly factory 318 cam. During overlap, BOTH valves are open to some degree. At low rpm, the falling piston can suck exhaust back into the chamber. If you have a big chamber, and a semi-closed throttle, yur gonna have a good amount of EGR, before the plenum starts feeding. If you then put a too big carb on this crappy combo, guess what, the darn thing is super lazy during this condition. The cure is NOT a DP carb, that's not the problem, the problem is the super-slow air thru-put. Getting fuel into the engine is NEVER the problem. It's ALWAYS about getting the air moving.
6) for a streeter, a Spreadbore design is the bee's knees, and that is why anybody who has ever run a Thermoquad, loves them, me included. The small Primaries respond so much faster and on less signal. Being a metering rod carb, they can be, with appropriate cruise-timing, be tuned for a very lean cruise. And the Secondary Air-door is supremely adjustable for any sized street engine.
7) if you marry a low cylinder-pressure engine, to a lo-stall convertor, that's just silly, no amount of tuning is gonna get you the results you crave in terms of low-rpm throttle response, and torque. Once you have run hi-pressure, you will never go back. Sure your 8/1Scr 318, with a 340 cam, and a 3500 stall TC goes like a raped ape, I get that. But go ahead and pump the pressure to the max and you can run at least two sizes smaller a cam on the street and drop to 2800stall, and you will be a much happier guy in the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of your rpm band. and along with the way-better throttle response, and the stronger low-rpm, will come the potential for way more fuel-mileage.
8) I suppose a guy could break carb-type selection down to combo's but for a streeter, the DP carb, would rarely be the go-to design.
9) I have run every type and several sizes of carbs on my combo, with excellent results. I have a manual trans with 4.10 type gears, so they all run very similar. The 750DP on it today is mostly there just to spin tires.
My secret weapon is that no matter what cam was ever in it, I always adjusted the TotalChamber size to produce about the same 180/185 psi CCP. Yes this required the teardown of the engine and adjusting the deck heights. So what/ that's HotRodding. ..... and I was never sorry about the extra effort. BTW, yes, the Thermoquad was my favorite. But my 600VS got the bestest fuel-mileage......... but my other secret weapon is the overdrive. My combo cruises like it would with 2.77s.
The biggest cam in this combo was the 292/292/108 Mopar. The smallest was a Hughes offering 270/276/110(my favorite). Currently it has a Hughes 276/286/110. All were hydros.
The carbs I tried were; the "big" TQ, the Holley 750VS, the AVS , the 750DP and the 600VS Holley. Someday I hope to find a free Quadrajet to try.

just trying to help; this is not an attack.
 
It doesn't make sense to say a carb'd engine can be as fuel efficient as an EFI engine. There is a reason fuel injection in one form or another replaced carbs 30 years ago.
Oh IDK about that. I think your statement is too broad and ambiguous.
EFI engines and their support works are designed completely different than our dinosaur age V8s. They usually have; higher compression, Computerized Ignition Timing, VVT, alloy heads with better engineered combustion chambers and multivalves, deceleration fuel-cuts, transmissions with multi-gears and overdrives and LU convertors. Not to forget, Variable Valve-Timing, which our V8s will never get, eliminates valve overlap.
And the thing of it is, that despite some 50/60 years of technological advances, it is still possible to engineer our ancient engines to at least rival EFI, in terms of fuel economy.
The real winner with EFI is that with computerized timing, the designer can finally give the engine the cylinder-pressure and ignition timing it wants and needs. EFI fuel economy results are very dependent on the engine under the injectors, and it's ignition timing. I think an EFI engine just hits the marks a lil more often, and so the average goes up.
Carbs have circuits that are flexible enough to be bolted onto a myriad of engine designs, to work, mostly, without issues.. When you modify and fine tune one, any one, to your particular combo, the results can be pretty amazing.
And in steady state cruising, you can, with the proper timing,and the right carb, just lean the chit out of it, and so, there comes yur fuel-economy. This I have proven. For even better results, you just need to get the rpm down; this too I have proven.
The difference with EFI is that you are not limited to a specific narrow cruise rpm band. And
I gotta admit, the finer atomization of EFI is also a factor. Ergo a low-compression big-carb'd engine operating at a modest cruise rpm, is possibly the worst example; and a hi-vacuum, small-carb'd engine operating at low rpm, is likely the best.
So again;
Oh IDK about that. lol.
 
It doesn't make sense to say a carb'd engine can be as fuel efficient as an EFI engine. There is a reason fuel injection in one form or another replaced carbs 30 years ago.
There were multiple reasons, main one being emissions. In the late 70s and 80s manufacturers came out with those awful feedback-controlled carburetors because they needed to maintain target AFR at all times with emissions regulations getting stricter especially during warm-up and changing ambient conditions. Emissions increase drastically just going a little rich or a little lean from stoich and carbs have to run pretty rich at initial start-up to keep the engine running and there's a lot of liquid fuel going into the cylinders with the choke closed. Fuel economy is generally better for EFI but you can get really close with a carb, same goes for power. It's really hard though to keep a carb hovering around 14.7:1 AFR at idle and cruise in order to keep the catalytic converter working and not "wear out" or overheat it. EFI definitely isn't needed to get good gas mileage unless you're after that last few MPG.


Ok this is, I wanna say, you have been misinformed. Ima trying to be nice.
1) ANY carb can be tuned for economy. They ALL work the same. Some are just easier to access the circuits. And some, were just never designed for economy which does NOT mean that you can't change that.
2) there is no good reason to run a DP carb on the street, unless your engine has enough power to spin the tires below say 3000; then the DP carb is good for showing that off.
3) the Vacuum-Secondary , or Air-Valve Secondary, or any such-type, carb, is well able to be over adjusted to spin the tires too. And if your engine is of a decent compression design, and the carb-size well-matched, the supposed "lag" will be nonexistent.
4) in both cases or any case, a great deal of how a carb performs will be compression and ignition timing related. If you throw a too big carb Vacuum Secondary onto a low-compression slug with stock ignition timing and a lo-stall convertor, yes, you will have a dog. It's not the carb's fault, and you can spend hours and hours attempting to tune with no good results. Then you install a DP anything, and the POS combo wakes up.... sorta. But hang on, you only think the DP solved your problem. You just band-aided a pos combo, is all.
5) What's cylinder pressure got to do with it?
Nothing; it's Not the pressure. It's the sharp vacuum-signal created by the falling piston in the small combustion chamber. All cams have overlap, yes even the lowly factory 318 cam. During overlap, BOTH valves are open to some degree. At low rpm, the falling piston can suck exhaust back into the chamber. If you have a big chamber, and a semi-closed throttle, yur gonna have a good amount of EGR, before the plenum starts feeding. If you then put a too big carb on this crappy combo, guess what, the darn thing is super lazy during this condition. The cure is NOT a DP carb, that's not the problem, the problem is the super-slow air thru-put. Getting fuel into the engine is NEVER the problem. It's ALWAYS about getting the air moving.
6) for a streeter, a Spreadbore design is the bee's knees, and that is why anybody who has ever run a Thermoquad, loves them, me included. The small Primaries respond so much faster and on less signal. Being a metering rod carb, they can be, with appropriate cruise-timing, be tuned for a very lean cruise. And the Secondary Air-door is supremely adjustable for any sized street engine.
7) if you marry a low cylinder-pressure engine, to a lo-stall convertor, that's just silly, no amount of tuning is gonna get you the results you crave in terms of low-rpm throttle response, and torque. Once you have run hi-pressure, you will never go back. Sure your 8/1Scr 318, with a 340 cam, and a 3500 stall TC goes like a raped ape, I get that. But go ahead and pump the pressure to the max and you can run at least two sizes smaller a cam on the street and drop to 2800stall, and you will be a much happier guy in the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of your rpm band. and along with the way-better throttle response, and the stronger low-rpm, will come the potential for way more fuel-mileage.
8) I suppose a guy could break carb-type selection down to combo's but for a streeter, the DP carb, would rarely be the go-to design.
9) I have run every type and several sizes of carbs on my combo, with excellent results. I have a manual trans with 4.10 type gears, so they all run very similar. The 750DP on it today is mostly there just to spin tires.
My secret weapon is that no matter what cam was ever in it, I always adjusted the TotalChamber size to produce about the same 180/185 psi CCP. Yes this required the teardown of the engine and adjusting the deck heights. So what/ that's HotRodding. ..... and I was never sorry about the extra effort. BTW, yes, the Thermoquad was my favorite. But my 600VS got the bestest fuel-mileage......... but my other secret weapon is the overdrive. My combo cruises like it would with 2.77s.
The biggest cam in this combo was the 292/292/108 Mopar. The smallest was a Hughes offering 270/276/110(my favorite). Currently it has a Hughes 276/286/110. All were hydros.
The carbs I tried were; the "big" TQ, the Holley 750VS, the AVS , the 750DP and the 600VS Holley. Someday I hope to find a free Quadrajet to try.

just trying to help; this is not an attack.

I got you and appreciate the input. The Street Demon I have now runs great but it's not very tune-able outside of changing jets and primary metering rods, and maybe acc pump squirters but that's it. The response is pretty excellent honestly, that's not the main reason I want to switch. I started building a mild 440 for my truck and want to put the Street Demon on that which I think is its intended application (625 for SB's, 750 for BB's). With my cam and loose cheap converter it doesn't get into the power enrichment circuit on the primaries unless I crack the secondaries a tad even with the stiffest step-up springs under the metering rods because the converter takes some load off the engine when I get on it (verified by my onboard vacuum gauge and O2 sensor AFR readout). I don't really like that at the track because the power delivery isn't as linear with throttle position as I'd like it to be particularly in turns or coming out of turns. It just feels like the way it's built and set up being a "Street" carb it's meant for smaller-cammed engines with tight converters and plenty of idle vacuum. I just put 3.55:1 gears and rebuilt Sure-Grip in the car (had 2.94s before) and it can spin the tires from a stop without brake-loading it so the engine makes really good torque below 3000 RPM.
 
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