Great, I'm f*cked...Threw a rod...(bearing)

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StrokerScamp said:
I hear you. But BMW has been making tangless bearing engines a long time. So, bearing crush must contribute somehow.
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Absolutely, and I acknowledged that in both posts.

From my experience when the crush is gone, a spin is not far behind. I think the crush being gone, allows the bearing to collapse on the crank with no clearance. Then once enough material has been removed from the bearing, the tangs can get by their slots assisted by metal fatigue.

I am interested in seeing some of the BMW tangless setups, to understand them better. Are the big ends of the rods totally round in the bearing area?
 
Get a crank kit.

The rods look ok from pictures.

A crank kit from the parts store will have a stock crank that has been turned, plus matching set of rod and main bearings.

It will be some work to do in car because of timing, but it can be done.

An engine swap might be a bit easier (drop in the whole package), but the crank kit will probably run you 1/2 the price of an engine. Locally, a kit is 150-200 range.

If you decide to swap engines, don't be afraid. If you can do what you have done so far you can swap a FWD engine. They can be spooky at first, but it is basically an engine, and tranmission, mounted sideways. Wiring is not that bad (most sensors only go one place), exhaust, motor mounts, bellhousing bolts, etc. Organization, sharpie marker, and zip lock baggie are the magic tools.
 
Well guys, today I polished all the main and rod bearing journals, holy crap it took me forever, and to try and polish the main journals with the crank still installed is tricky! send a piece of emory cloth over, sand, then turn the crank a hair, sand again, turn the crank again, sand some more...yea, doing each one twice, first with 120 grit, then 200. using wd40 as a lube..they turned out okay I think....time to throw bearings in it now!

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Here was the worst one, Number 1 rod journal, cleaned up good...

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WOW that is amazing, you really did a super job!!!! I would have bet $$$ you would not have gotten #1 to look that good, I think JMO you will definatly good to go, should run a long time, just wondering do they make different qualities of bearing for your engine like they do for american engines??
 
Holy crap that looks good.. I am impressed and can only imagine how that must have sucked being under the car doing that.
 
Way to go James!!!!!


those look like they cleaned up GREAT.

Im thinking once you toss new bearings in there that you will be good to go and it should last you awhile.

glad you don't have to drop a ton of change on a new power plant.

fingers crossed that it all goes smoothly for ya buddy.
 
Good work James!Heck,even if you only get 1000 miles out of it,you,ve learned and done the job yourself!Kudos to you!:cheers::-D
 
Hell yeah Brother!!!!!
Put that **** back together and fire it!
Excellent job.

Make sure you check the oil pickup and if you can try priming it!
It should be fine.
 
200 grit is way too course.Finish it with 400 then 600. Sneak the emory cloth thru and then wrap a flat shoelace around the journal so the emory is tight to it. Now you can spin the emory back and forth using the shoelace by alternatingly pulling on one end then the other. I use this for rocker shafts,cranks and it saves a lot of time.
 
needsaresto said:
200 grit is way too course.Finish it with 400 then 600. Sneak the emory cloth thru and then wrap a flat shoelace around the journal so the emory is tight to it. Now you can spin the emory back and forth using the shoelace by alternatingly pulling on one end then the other. I use this for rocker shafts,cranks and it saves a lot of time.
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Don't forget to oil the bearings and caps BEFORE putting it back together. Let us know the results. We're all waiting.
 
yeah, but the no.1 probably needed 200 just to clean up.

I should have said 400 grit, no big, it's just that you don't wanna take too much off the journals that were ok.

I would look into a .001 undersize rod bearing for the no.1 rod, just for fun get both sizes and plasti gauge the .001 under to see if it gives you better clearance.

make sure you spry lots of brake cleaner in there and clean out any debris from the cloth, and lube the upper main bearing real good when you slide them around and underneath the crank mains.

fwiw I ran a standard 225 crank after emery clothing it [400 grit] for over 180k till I sold the car, it lasted from 1998 - 2004 when I sold it and probably still runs.
 
412 Stroker said:
WOW that is amazing, you really did a super job!!!! I would have bet $$$ you would not have gotten #1 to look that good, I think JMO you will definatly good to go, should run a long time, just wondering do they make different qualities of bearing for your engine like they do for american engines??
Click to expand...

Thank you, it took me a while to make it look like it does!

Dart_440 said:
Holy crap that looks good.. I am impressed and can only imagine how that must have sucked being under the car doing that.
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Oh yea, it sucked hard core, WD40 dripping on my face, seeping downs my hands and arms....

DusterDude72 said:
Way to go James!!!!!

those look like they cleaned up GREAT.

Im thinking once you toss new bearings in there that you will be good to go and it should last you awhile.

glad you don't have to drop a ton of change on a new power plant.

fingers crossed that it all goes smoothly for ya buddy.
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Thank you Jarrod!!! I am glad I won't be buying a new motor as well!!!

pettybludart said:
Good work James!Heck,even if you only get 1000 miles out of it,you,ve learned and done the job yourself!Kudos to you!:cheers::-D
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Thank you Scott!!! I'm glad I am able to do this, a couple years ago I would have never attempted it! These cars and engines are so intimidating!!!

POS Dakota said:
Hell yeah Brother!!!!!
Put that **** back together and fire it!
Excellent job.

Make sure you check the oil pickup and if you can try priming it!
It should be fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you buddy!! I cleaned out the oil pan and pickup, there was lots of schrapnel in it! LOL


needsaresto said:
200 grit is way too course.Finish it with 400 then 600. Sneak the emory cloth thru and then wrap a flat shoelace around the journal so the emory is tight to it. Now you can spin the emory back and forth using the shoelace by alternatingly pulling on one end then the other. I use this for rocker shafts,cranks and it saves a lot of time.
Click to expand...

Hey buddy, 120 and 200 was the finest I had, What I did was, I first dulled both of them so they would be a little bit finer, And just uses one piece for all of the polishing, it got finer with each use...But I'm having a hard time finding 400 or 600 grit emory cloth...

I did that shoe lace trick with a piece of leather, like you described... I was only able to get the leather around the rod journals...


cudadriver said:
Don't forget to oil the bearings and caps BEFORE putting it back together. Let us know the results. We're all waiting.
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I will lube it all up, I have that STP engine additive that is super think like syrup...I'll bruch that on the bearings and caps..

Thank you all for the words of encouragement!!! It helps me get through this thing and calms my nerves...I'm cleaning the rest of the parts, and have to clean the bottom end and oil gallies as best I can...Any tips on how to do this?

Here's all the stuff I just bought...$90 bucks spent including new bearings...

f3gvw0.jpg
 
I'm glad for you. It was a lot of work but you did one hell of a job cleaning it up. WOW As Mad Dart says " It will last another 180K miles. Good for you. We're all behind you 110%.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
yeah, but the no.1 probably needed 200 just to clean up.

I should have said 400 grit, no big, it's just that you don't wanna take too much off the journals that were ok.

I would look into a .001 undersize rod bearing for the no.1 rod, just for fun get both sizes and plasti gauge the .001 under to see if it gives you better clearance.

make sure you spry lots of brake cleaner in there and clean out any debris from the cloth, and lube the upper main bearing real good when you slide them around and underneath the crank mains.

fwiw I ran a standard 225 crank after emery clothing it [400 grit] for over 180k till I sold the car, it lasted from 1998 - 2004 when I sold it and probably still runs.
Click to expand...


this is the solution that will last the longest
 
also, just a tip that I would personally do......but is not a MUST.

I like using a bit of lucas engine oil in engines with high/hard miles or that may not have perfect clearance tolerances.

it just adds a bit more cushion on mechanical surfaces and it sticks to all the rotating parts where as just oil doesn't cling to the metal as well.

I think its like $8.00 for a quart but you only need 1 quart and you can top it off the rest of the way with your regular oil.

good stuff in my opinion and experience.
 
Would chamfering the oil holes on the crank help in this situation?
 
Great job on the crank James, that journal looked like a rabid pit bull nawed on it... I thought that crank was carnage those first pics...
 
Well, I got it all back together!!! Put oil in it, new filter, started it up, let it get warm, shut it off, drained the oil and put a new filter again, with new oil and went for a test drive!! It drives great!! No grinding noises, no clacking, nothing!!! Just like new! I'm so happy, LOL...This took me 3 days to do...lol. I hope it will last for a good while. :)

Here is a short vid, the quality isn't good, it's way better on my camera for some reason...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pod5g4ilRRM"]YouTube - MVI 1668[/ame]
 
Whoa man you did an awesome job! What a crazy 3 days that must have been. Glad to hear its all fixed now
 
HemiEd said:
Absolutely, and I acknowledged that in both posts.

From my experience when the crush is gone, a spin is not far behind. I think the crush being gone, allows the bearing to collapse on the crank with no clearance. Then once enough material has been removed from the bearing, the tangs can get by their slots assisted by metal fatigue.

I am interested in seeing some of the BMW tangless setups, to understand them better. Are the big ends of the rods totally round in the bearing area?
Click to expand...

I've never seen a ROD of any make NOT perfectly round on the big end unless they were out of spec, and I've resized a bunch of them. It's the bearing itself that's crushed out of round to allow clearance when running. There may be some out there designed out or round on the big end, but I ain't seen um yet.
 
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