Has anyone painted their car with rollers

[Rice Nuker]

Well, rolling on or spray can on paint is alot better than having a whacked out falling off paint job with different color panels and such, for most people.

In a roll on paint job, what goes on to the bare metal? Factory paint still left on in places? How is the various body repairs prepared and sealed?

A paint job is mostly about what is below the paint, how well that adheres to the metal, how well the body filler is waterproofed and corrosion proofed. Foundation that is impervious to water.

Then with the top coat, how well it is impervious to water, oxidation, chemicals, and UV, how well it will hold a shine and be resilient to abrasion?

So using a roller:

Paint is not layed out smooth in the first place, so it will be dull and irregular thicknesses. Not a big deal to some folks.

The big question is: what type of paint is being rolled on? Is it catylized? Is it solvent based? What is the durability factor to all sorts of elements? Is it designed to look and act like car paint? Modern automotive paint and clear coats are 10 fold the durability and smooth shine of rustoleum or rattle can or similar.

If you want a paint job to last well, you spend 80-90 percent of the paint job work prepping metal, working the metal, epoxy the metal, then applying body fillers, sealing and creating a smooth impervious foundation before you actually paint.

Then with all that work, rolling on rustoleum is like a finely tuned race car finished off with polyglass 14 x6 tires.

I sand blasted my neighbors hood inside and out on his 72 ford f-100 ranger. I washed it down with alcohol inside and out. Then soaked it with epoxy. While the epoxy was still hot, I did the underside with rustoleum ford blue.

But, it is an old wood hauling truck, so really it was about surface rust removal, and sealing it tight with epoxy.
I will be surprised if the rustoleum bonds correctly to the epoxy long term.

 

[Woods74]

Then with all that work, rolling on rustoleum is like a finely tuned race car finished off with polyglass 14 x6 tires.

I disagree, I'm doing a in depth restoration and use rustoleum as we speak, differen't levels of prep, and what you say doesn't jive man. You don't have to spend $1000 a gallon for decent paint, nor have to epoxy the metal, or if you go to bare metal and it's sanded in any form with a stripping wheel or 150-220 sanding block, do you need self etching primer. That right there is mechanical etching.

Rustoleum is some very tough paint, lasts just fine from all accounts and my own expierence, longevity isn't even a question. The only thing you don't get is metal flake and custom colors.

Also, if down the road you want to use auto paint, lay a layer of fresh rustoleum down and spray, simple as that.



Cool it with the purist rants, and read the moparts post and lets end the debate, there is none.



Here is a video of the process and outcome:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ[/ame]

 

[vaz316]

Im doing mine right now the trick is cutting the paint 50 50 with mineral spirits. It is dry by morning if you paint it in the evening and yes you do have to wetsand alot if 1.5 hours is alot I actually am enjoying it. No its not a 5k paint job but it is decent looking and you do it yourself so you can be proud of the job you do and get to know every inch of your car in the process. Ill post pics when its done.

 

[Palmetto]

Poison Darts post answers it for me...

 

[BillGrissom]

You're saying you didn't thin it at all? How many coats did you apply?

It has been several years. I recall adding a little thinner (what Interlux suggests), but only when needed. I recall starting out full strength on both jobs and adding a little thinner to the tray if the foam brush starts chattering. That happens more on a hot day and if you leave the paint in the tray long, so depends on how fast you are. In sum, you add thinner only as needed to keep the paint at the original consistency. I will probably have to re-learn it for my Dart interior and exterior, but will do the floor first where mistakes aren't seen anyway.

I recall doing 2 coats for both the trailer and Dart trunk & engine bay. The trailer had existing white paint. The Dart was bare metal, mostly shiny with just a few pits in the corners under the cowl I couldn't sand out in the bay and some rust left in the trunk wheel well. I primed w/ Rust Destroyer (red), then Interlux white primer, then 2 coats light yellow Brightsides. Between coats of Brightsides you must sand w/ 600 grit to remove the gloss. I didn't sand the final coat since it was very shiny. I has Teflon that floats to the surface and helps keep dirt off. If you final sand, it might remove that Teflon layer.

 

[gregpurcell]

I just bought a parts car that someone put heavy latex paint on. I don't know if they used a roller or a power painter..but they painted over the trim, parking lights and everything! Industrial paint stripper won't take it off! The stuff looks like BED LINER!
Kids, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!

 

[spikermiker]

Haters gonna Hate...:finga:

I painted my old FZR600 with black foam brushes ONLY. I took black rustoleum paint in a pint and diluted with a 50/50 ratio of paint to mineral spirits. I layed 2 coats on and wet sanded the next day. I did this until 6 coats then buffed with the el-cheapo paste turtle wax by hand. You're supposed to use a power buffer but I'm broke paying for college so you do what you have to.

This process takes lot of time. Much sanding is involved. My half-assed result ended up looking good from 5 feet away, the paint doesn't harden like the pro stuff but it will be more durable than spray. Keep in mind it will have to be 100% stripped off if you want to put the good stuff down later!

:coffee2:

 

[Woods74]

Haters gonna Hate...:finga:

Keep in mind it will have to be 100% stripped off if you want to put the good stuff down later!

:coffee2:

No it doesn't. Just put a new layer down of Rustoleum down, before it cures, spray the good stuff. POOF it cures together, no bubbles.

 

[res1vw21]

I disagree, I'm doing a in depth restoration and use rustoleum as we speak, differen't levels of prep, and what you say doesn't jive man. You don't have to spend $1000 a gallon for decent paint, nor have to epoxy the metal, or if you go to bare metal and it's sanded in any form with a stripping wheel or 150-220 sanding block, do you need self etching primer. That right there is mechanical etching.

Rustoleum is some very tough paint, lasts just fine from all accounts and my own expierence, longevity isn't even a question. The only thing you don't get is metal flake and custom colors.

Also, if down the road you want to use auto paint, lay a layer of fresh rustoleum down and spray, simple as that.



Cool it with the purist rants, and read the moparts post and lets end the debate, there is none.



Here is a video of the process and outcome:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ

Sorry dude, I do this for a living; non catalyzed enamel based paints are not gonna last not matter what. I have seen it many many times.

The only way to get a good paint job is to have proper prep (we also don't typically use high build primers because we actually do proper metal/filler work and high build primers shrink too much leaving sanding scratches) and use good materials. Now I am not saying you have to use $1000 a gallon materials in fact at the restoration/collision shop we use $150 a gallon clear (including hardener) regularly with great results.

Stuff like this may work fine for a home hobbyist (where it doesn't have to be perfect) but not in the real world. We can't have people coming back because we used bad paint.

 

[res1vw21]

To clarify they will last (for a while) if it's a garage kept car that never sees the light of day, but whats the fun of that?

 

[lowbudget]

I think if I had the time and money into the bodywork I would at least use a generic Acrylic Enamel like this http://www.paintforcars.com/enamel_paint_kits.html
I think you would be better off as long as you kept the dust down. It was what was originally used from the factory. As long as it is put down in a clean environment no wet sanding, buffing needed. I haven't used this brand yet but was thinking about doing my car hauling trailer with it, depending on what my local paint guy wants for PPG's budget line.

 

[Woods74]

Sorry dude, I do this for a living; non catalyzed enamel based paints are not gonna last not matter what. I have seen it many many times.

Alright then, how did the dude over at moparts get his to last 12 years (and counting)?

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2338616

"well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it."

That's not the only account I've seen saying the time frame or longer. It's made for the elements.


I will say this, If you have the space, buying a harbor freight HVLP gun and spraying some summit racing paint is fairly frugal as well.

 

[moparspares]

Thought it was a bit of a joke but Fair Dinkum some of the cars look good. Wouldnt do it myself but it's an option if you have no cash.

 

[Sully1190]

Sorry dude, I do this for a living; non catalyzed enamel based paints are not gonna last not matter what. I have seen it many many times.

The only way to get a good paint job is to have proper prep (we also don't typically use high build primers because we actually do proper metal/filler work and high build primers shrink too much leaving sanding scratches) and use good materials. Now I am not saying you have to use $1000 a gallon materials in fact at the restoration/collision shop we use $150 a gallon clear (including hardener) regularly with great results.

Stuff like this may work fine for a home hobbyist (where it doesn't have to be perfect) but not in the real world. We can't have people coming back because we used bad paint.

Oh, I would imagine so. But money is tight right now, and frankly, if I can get a 2-4 year paint job that looks pretty decent for 50 bucks, I'll be ecstatic. Maybe then I can take it to a pro or paint it myself with a sprayer. This car will never be a show car ^^ It's got too much bondo. I just want a daily driver.

 

[res1vw21]

Alright then, how did the dude over at moparts get his to last 12 years (and counting)?

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2338616

"well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it."

That's not the only account I've seen saying the time frame or longer. It's made for the elements.


I will say this, If you have the space, buying a harbor freight HVLP gun and spraying some summit racing paint is fairly frugal as well.

Without reading it, my guess is it's kept inside.... Don't forget pics are very deceiving and the average person doesn't know squat about paint and body. I get people all the time telling me how straight and nice looking my swinger is, in truth it looks like a pos.

I can't hardly even go to car shows anymore because all I see are flaws, it drives me crazy, sometimes I wish I would have done something else because I use to enjoy going.

 

[Sully1190]

Without reading it, my guess is it's kept inside.... Don't forget pics are very deceiving and the average person doesn't know squat about paint and body. I get people all the time telling me how straight and nice looking my swinger is, in truth it looks like a pos.

I can't hardly even go to car shows anymore because all I see are flaws, it drives me crazy, sometimes I wish I would have done something else because I use to enjoy going.

Without reading it, how do you know what the process is? ^^ Kidding.

And if the average person constantly comes up to me telling me my paint job is nice, and it looks as good as other cars at shows, then I'll be plenty happy.

I am not exactly shooting for Barret Jackson caliber.

Perfectionism isn't a bad thing, by any means. I'm just not there yet. And won't be able to be there for a long while. This is still my first car to restore. It's kind of like the people who say you need a 3k dollar guitar/amp combo or you're going to sound horrible. Maybe to them it'll be horrible, but I know of a guitarist or two (one of my favorites) who uses two that he picked up from a pawn shop.

 

[Bulldozer]

Without reading it, how do you know what the process is? ^^ Kidding.

And if the average person constantly comes up to me telling me my paint job is nice, and it looks as good as other cars at shows, then I'll be plenty happy.

I am not exactly shooting for Barret Jackson caliber.

Perfectionism isn't a bad thing, by any means. I'm just not there yet. And won't be able to be there for a long while. This is still my first car to restore. It's kind of like the people who say you need a 3k dollar guitar/amp combo or you're going to sound horrible. Maybe to them it'll be horrible, but I know of a guitarist or two (one of my favorites) who uses two that he picked up from a pawn shop.

Sully, if you are considering cheap , check this out;
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspcolors.aspx

i bought a complete kobalt spray gun kit from lowes for less than 100 bucks and a medium paint kit ,acrylic enamel single stage from tcp global . i have less than 300 bucks in primer, paint and a gun and i shot it myself. its not perfect, but looks great and very durable.

 

[Sully1190]

That is the longterm plan, 73. But, as a temporary fix, money saving opportunity, and frankly... a curious itch that must now be scratched, I was going to try this out ^^

 

[Woods74]

That is the longterm plan, 73. But, as a temporary fix, money saving opportunity, and frankly... a curious itch that must now be scratched, I was going to try this out ^^

Nice find 73, Sully Don't let anyone or start you or stop you, accept you, it all depends what your overall goal is. If you can spray the Rustoleum it will be less sanding work.

Taking into consideration what res1vw21 and others have said about lack of UV protection, add a clear coat and keep it in wax and call it a day, you should be golden for years to come.



Just found a link discussing best UV protection methods/wax:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...best-wax-protection-against-uv-rays-heat.html




Here are a couple wise comments:

"...Nothing protects your cars paint like weekly washing and application of your favorite wax/selant at least every two months. If you follow that regimen, you'll wear out your car before you need new paint."

"There's no better UV protection then Clearcoat paint. Nothing compares to it on any level really. I can't see how something you spread on the surface of your car will give you measureable UV protection for anything more than a few hours. It's basically suntan lotion for you paint which is useless really."



You be the judge. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out! Pics please!

 

[Sully1190]

You be the judge. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out! Pics please!

I will boldly go ahead :| Blazing trails and uncovering truths.


Also, If it looks good, I might indeed shoot it with some clear later on down the road.

 

[hemitheus]

According to the youtube video you do apply a rattle can clear coat over the paint in 3 stages.

 

[BillGrissom]

Sorry dude, I do this for a living; non catalyzed enamel based paints are not gonna last not matter what. I have seen it many many times.

I guess not all naysayers took the suggestions to first read the moparts post. Your statement could be true for Rustoleum (I haven't researched). The Interlux Brightsides polyurethane paint I used is used to paint boats, usually fiberglass with a degraded gel coat. They claim it lasts ~5 years, but my car isn't sitting in the sun and salt spray so I am hoping for 20 years.

 

[Lonewolf3165]

Last month this guy rolled his Imperial....

Just finished rubbing it out today......

BAAHHAA! Funny as hell!! LMAO!!

 

[bkbond12]

Without reading it, my guess is it's kept inside.... Don't forget pics are very deceiving and the average person doesn't know squat about paint and body. I get people all the time telling me how straight and nice looking my swinger is, in truth it looks like a pos.

I can't hardly even go to car shows anymore because all I see are flaws, it drives me crazy, sometimes I wish I would have done something else because I use to enjoy going.

That sux. It's amazing how ignorance is bliss, huh? You've learned from working in automotive body and now you can't even enjoy your vehicle. Perhaps you could sell your Swinger and make an average person happy with a nice vehicle and then purchase one you can do up the way you want. I for one wouldn't be happy with a trailer queen because I enjoy the driving aspect of my cars. I find it funny that people build an amazing car and put $10,000+ into an engine that only runs for 2 minutes at a time and a top speed of 3 mph to pull the car on and off a trailer. Just my $0.02.

 

[res1vw21]

That sux. It's amazing how ignorance is bliss, huh? You've learned from working in automotive body and now you can't even enjoy your vehicle. Perhaps you could sell your Swinger and make an average person happy with a nice vehicle and then purchase one you can do up the way you want. I for one wouldn't be happy with a trailer queen because I enjoy the driving aspect of my cars. I find it funny that people build an amazing car and put $10,000+ into an engine that only runs for 2 minutes at a time and a top speed of 3 mph to pull the car on and off a trailer. Just my $0.02.

Lol I drive my swinger every day and beat the living **** out of it (and love every second of it). How about you you? Ask anyone who has meet me if you need proof.

I just know that I can do better and because I actually care I want to do better, hence why I am taking the time and doing it right on my Super Coupe. A trailer queen is one thing, something that has a lasting durable paint job is another..... (Guess what your 10 coats of clear may look great at the car show but it's quick to chip on the road......)

To the OP, Please paint your car and drive it, thats what they were designed for, just know any enamel paint isn't going to hold up to the weather like a urethane will and if it's maintained IE waxed or kept inside it will last considerably longer.

My crappy looking daily driver. See pics are deceiving.