having a little issue...

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enrichens at wot/vac rating, it's power with economy.

if you want to plug it, up the jets 8-10 sizes, and get poor milage.

so when tuning would u first just "drive" not accelerating to see if primary jetting is correct and then accelerate with secondaries disabled?

same for testing secondaries?? minus disabling primaries of course

and my pv was a 6.5. kinda high because my idle vac is only 11 or so right?
 
where do you buy these full groove mains?
I used to hear about 413 full groove mains....

At first I would buy two sets of slant six main bearings, and use the upper half of each set. This does require slightly relocating the notch in the bearing cap. Easy to do with a die grinder. But me, being "frugal" did not like throwing two half bearing sets into the garbage, tried something else. I mark the lower, plain bearing, shell and groove it with a die grinder. It is a little crude, but it seems to be working. Have these bearings in my 170 motor for almost 4 years, now, and the 225 in my 66 valiant, for about 50 1/4 mile passes.
 
so when tuning would u first just "drive" not accelerating to see if primary jetting is correct and then accelerate with secondaries disabled?

same for testing secondaries?? minus disabling primaries of course

and my pv was a 6.5. kinda high because my idle vac is only 11 or so right?
you need to check you idle vac in gear and divide by 2 to get the proper pv rating.i run a little on the high side,my vac in gear is about 10.5 and i run a 6.5 pv.
 
so when tuning would u first just "drive" not accelerating to see if primary jetting is correct and then accelerate with secondaries disabled?

same for testing secondaries?? minus disabling primaries of course

and my pv was a 6.5. kinda high because my idle vac is only 11 or so right?

the power valve opens at a given vacum drop/rate and feeds the main system, in your case the pv would open at or below 6.5 manifold vac.

at cruise there is a lot of vacum, too much for the pv to open.

to find the correct rated PV is to know the manifold vac reading at idle in gear, a/t uses the half of of the manifold vac reading with m/t being only 2 rates below manifold vac reading.

so if you have 8in vac at idle in gear [a/t] you would want a 4.5 power valve, which is half [pretty much] of the 8 in reading.

jetting is simply going from ootb, considering elevation, and leaning till a surge at cruise then go richer 2 jet sizes-primary.
If you have a PV in both pri/sec, then you just square up the jetting=same pri/sec. If you only run 1 in the primary, then go 8 jets bigger on the secondary.
 
you need to check you idle vac in gear and divide by 2 to get the proper pv rating.i run a little on the high side,my vac in gear is about 10.5 and i run a 6.5 pv.

ok well when i get my new converter (3200 stall) i'll be able to do that, right now it is 11-12" @ idle (1050) in "N".

the power valve opens at a given vacum drop/rate and feeds the main system, in your case the pv would open at or below 6.5 manifold vac.

at cruise there is a lot of vacum, too much for the pv to open.

to find the correct rated PV is to know the manifold vac reading at idle in gear, a/t uses the half of of the manifold vac reading with m/t being only 2 rates below manifold vac reading.

so if you have 8in vac at idle in gear [a/t] you would want a 4.5 power valve, which is half [pretty much] of the 8 in reading.

jetting is simply going from ootb, considering elevation, and leaning till a surge at cruise then go richer 2 jet sizes-primary.
If you have a PV in both pri/sec, then you just square up the jetting=same pri/sec. If you only run 1 in the primary, then go 8 jets bigger on the secondary.

ok so lean till surge, up 2 on primary,
i've never had the secondary bowl off so i dont know if it has a pv but it is a DP so secondary metering block.

with it idling @ 11 now in gear it should be around 8 i imagine...

thx guys just waiting on machine shop now...
 
ah geeze!!! well i dont have a degree wheel and piston tdc stopper, i know how to do it just don't have those tools

Ages ago I was told to weld a bolt shank or piece of steel rod to the center of the end of an old spark plug (break or grind out the porcelain around the electrode there). Makes a great, dirt cheap, piston tdc stopper. I did buy the degree wheel.
 
google it man...just find holley cross reference and look for the numbers listed that are on the choke horn or box it came in.
It'll tell you jetting/pv/shooter/cam/bleeds....
 
Damn,this was some great reading !!! Now if I could just decipher it all I'd be in luck !!Trying to get as much info as I can for when I do my next /6 project ! Here soon I'm hoping for !Anyone in theMelbourne area in case I need more techno advise ??
 
Damn,this was some great reading !!! Now if I could just decipher it all I'd be in luck !!Trying to get as much info as I can for when I do my next /6 project ! Here soon I'm hoping for !Anyone in theMelbourne area in case I need more techno advise ??

here ya go
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V8Nf5OoY48"]YouTube - The Techno Ator[/ame]
 
Damn,this was some great reading !!! Now if I could just decipher it all I'd be in luck !!Trying to get as much info as I can for when I do my next /6 project ! Here soon I'm hoping for !Anyone in theMelbourne area in case I need more techno advise ??

WOW!!! that was 48 seconds of my life wasted.

he said it...
 
ok so i got all my parts back, cleaned the block and crank. installed and torqued the mains.

file fitted all the rings

top ring spec was .015 i went looser .002 (.017)
second ring was .012 i went looser .002 (.014)
oil ring was min .015 out of the box they were like .025

polished the tops of the pistons so just need to put the rings on and get a ring compressor tool
 
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