Help me Build Up My 318

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GOLD74DART

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Ok Lets hear about How you Built your 318? My 360 is on the back burner now. I need to beat any My Boss with a 318 build up. He stole my 302 heads Fully race ported it, bronzes guides and what hurts the most, he put Chevy valves in it. He doesnt have the short block yet So I'm ahead there, just wondering whats the best way to go with it. I figure you guys tried a few different builds. My truck ran good, stock bottom end, open chamber 318 heads, ported and shaved .060. That closed them up by the way. I ran an 850 carb on it (my only carb at the time) and it ran real good with open headers. I think there was still some power left in it, being the pistons were still in the hole. My block is an 86 truck with the roller cam mounts already to go. I'm thinking about the stroker kit, but $600 plus for pistons are asking a lot. Any Help would be great.
 
In the tech archives look at 349 on the cheap, this will answer alot of you questions.
 
I'd rather you made up your mind first on what you want to do (and what can be afforded). Then I'll be happy to give some suggestions. It's way to vague and general a request for right now.
 
Excellent build up, I was looking last night for info on using the 358 stroke crank, cause I already the 318/340 style crank, just need the 360 heads. Was their a certain head you liked more? And what type cam, I'll assume it was a solid roller? I'll let you know how the build goes.

BJR Racing said:
In the tech archives look at 349 on the cheap, this will answer alot of you questions.
 
Sorry for being so vague, I really wanted to see what builds people have done. Then decide which direction I need to go. Thanks for pointing that out. I really liked the build BJR has done and have made a decision to use that build. I wanted to use some of the parts I already have or have access to. I budget'd 10g's for the whole car. Doing must of the work myself. I already have a reworked small block 727 trans w/rev shift man valve body, 3200 stall, So I wanted to stay with a small block. I've worked more on them. Working on the body right now. I'm trying to have a realistic goal of being done next year. Thanks again for any input.

moper said:
I'd rather you made up your mind first on what you want to do (and what can be afforded). Then I'll be happy to give some suggestions. It's way to vague and general a request for right now.
 
i was thinking bout putting chevy valves in mine because the mildon chevy exhaust valve is the size i need for my intake 1.880 but ya that build that valiant mike posted is a good one
 
"he put Chevy valves in it. "

Well, first off Id be worried because he knows what hes doing.....

With Cheb nail head backcut 2.02's.my heads flow 230 intake .60
With Mopar 1.88's they flowed 210 @.50.

Heres some more detail.......

We have a guy down under who even Ryan J from Shady D used to speak with to discuss results when he started.


He built up my 318 heads......went waaaaay further than any sane man would,,,,,as an experiment.

Main thing was he welded the runners and raised the rooves to increase flow....but maintained port velocity.

Heres a pic.



Now here the point........

Here's the flow figs with 1.96 intakes...

1.96 intake

lift.../cfm
.100/77
.200/122
.300/178
.400/214
.500/223
.600/223 = 459 HPof flow at the head
.

He got this out of a 318 head using 2.02 cheb valves...

int
lift..../cfm
.100/69
.200/123
.300/185
.400/220
.500/223
.600/230

exh
lift..../cfm
.100/60
.200/103
.300/142
.400/182
.500/198
.600/208

Remember...these are 318 heads!!

SO..point being, theres a benefit in using the larger nailhead design.

Any planning you do wil needd to be "on the money"...but you have plenty of guys here who are running great times...just balance the combo.
 
BJR Racing said:
In the tech archives look at 349 on the cheap, this will answer alot of you questions.
Engine deck was checked and was told it was off .012 I wonder should I go ahead and deck it .020/.030? I'm not looking for the compression you got, want to run pump gas. And what roller cam would you run or stay with a flat tappet?
 
Stay with a flat tappet as it will be less maintaince, and parts cost will be less.
Also dont deck the block anymore than is needed to square it up.
 
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