how hard a fit is a hemi?

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plumcrazy704406

plumcrazy704406

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like the title says, I'm thinking of this for my barracuda. the consensus seems to be don't due it. So, I would like to hear from those that have done it, what the ins and outs are while retaining the inner fenders etc.
appreciate the help fabo members, thx
 
A hemi is easier to work on and repair and all round better.Since the exhaust manifolds are bolted from under neath,is easier for a exhaust system install and repair.Plugs are a joke to get to as commpared to the wedge motor with headers or manifolds.Either motor you have to use a relocation master cylinder plate woth flex hoses.The heater motor is tossed or moved back in 2" to clear the vacle covers,the front of the motor is same for both.if you had the cash for both,I would choise the hemi over the wedge and for both,I would get ride of the torsion bars,mrmopartech
 
Might want contact hemicop, he is a member here. He is on his third Dart with a Hemi. I am going that route also, but I complicated matters by going with a gm4l80e trans. My car is at the fab shop now. Engine compartment was mocked up with a plastic block, I went with a motor/mid plate arrangement. There is a few sources to get a k-member done, if you chose that route. Let me know if you want a phone number to one of them. The other place is Kramer Automotive. Other than the headers, I do not really see it being a big deal. I got to go, before I lose power....
 
A hemi you say? Hmmm. Are we talking 1st gen, (392), 2nd gen, (426), or new hemi? I'm also assuming A body, not E body?
 
Do it, do it!

I will eventually be going the same route with a crossram 572 hemi, yep, gonna take another ten years to save up for it, but that was my original goal in the first place, and remember....real hemi pistons go up inside the heads.

No winter projects for me, more like decade projects. LOL.

Gotta feed the kids and pay the bills first and yes, everything depends on the Wife's mood and the state of the economy.
If things really start to suck i may just sell it if the right offer comes along.
 
let me see Hemi A-body, well you have to curse, beat, cut, and hammer to get it in there. it'll corner about as good as a Mack truck. take hours to get the headers on and off. you'll dread doing any kind of maintenance on it. you'll have to jack the torsion bars up on a monthly basis.

But when you pull in "anywhere" and draw a huge crowds, make passengers grab for non existent oh-**** handles, and just plain cant get the smile off your face, its well worth it.

Your biggest battle will be patience. if you don't have it now, you will when your done. And some of my bitching probably has to do to the fact i run the dog crap out of my car. if im not running it hard at the track, im running it hard on the street. i switch it between automatics and 4 speeds on a regular basis. and im always constantly messing with the thing just because. if it was gonna be a show poodle with a crate motor then it wouldn't be any more hassle than any other set up once its put together.


3109055.jpg

crossram.jpg

oct09.jpg


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hB8PuZWLAIM"]YouTube- going for a ride[/ame]
 
This is you right?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyEKVIIr3hY&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube- first pass off the trailer[/ame]
 
cudaspaz said:
This is you right?

YouTube- first pass off the trailer
Click to expand...

yea that was the beginning of last year, i've changed some things since then and have the car working alot better. last time i had it out it in october it did a big wheelie, made a left turn, i burped the throttle and pulled it back into the groove and still went 10.47 i just put RMS uppers and strut rods on it, fixed the bent spring perches on the rearend, and put some calvert shocks on it. hopping to get it out to the track soon to see what it'll do now. im getting married next month and thats kept me kind of busy along with that barracuda i bought.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
yea that was the beginning of last year, i've changed some things since then and have the car working alot better. last time i had it out it in october it did a big wheelie, made a left turn, i burped the throttle and pulled it back into the groove and still went 10.47 i just put RMS uppers and strut rods on it, fixed the bent spring perches on the rearend, and put some calvert shocks on it. hopping to get it out to the track soon to see what it'll do now. im getting married next month and thats kept me kind of busy along with that barracuda i bought.
Click to expand...

Congrats on the wedding, nice to see you making an honest girl out of her.Takes a real man to do that.
Looking forward to the new vids at the track......unless she makes you sell it all......kiddin'.=P~
 
Two obvious adjustments you have to make, yes the factory SS cars inner fenders are the same as the rest, however, on the passenger side, shock tower area, from the factory, (Hurst) ? this was pounded in with a hammer for clearence, the best way to rework this, is to cut away about a 1 1/2" tall x 10" long area, then bend a new piece of sheet metal like a 1/2 moon and weld it back in, this is for installation, and valve cover removal as well. the other easy fix is the movement of the master cylinder. As stated above, ALL the other correct pieces you will need are available, unless your a excellent fab man, to make them yourself, otherwise, the new parts will bolt on.
 
Not all cars need the "custom hammering" on them. Granted, this was with just the plastic mock up block, but the inner fender on my car did not get hammered, and before you ask, the motor is in the correct position. Same with my friends car. But INDY CYLINDER Heads sells valve covers that are clearanced for the shock tower. I do not know if the fab guy mounted the mock up block a bit higher. But one thing for certain is not all the cars are the same dimensionally. If you were to put an alterktion in the car you can get headers that supposedly fit, from either TTI or USCARTOOL.
 
The engine bays are the same for a 'cuda or Dart. While I was at MATS this year I saw several Hemi A-bodies there & a few appeared to not have their innerfenders pounded. I then went home, double-checked my engine positioning & work and strangely it all fit without the pounding. My best guess is manufacturing tolerances allowed for some pieces to be larger(or stretched) a bit while being pressed out at the factory. My motor's in the stock location so that's the only thing I can think of.
Yes, they're a bit of work and sure they're not a G-machine, but if you want that, you wouldn't be using a big old Hemi in the first place. You'll find they ARE actually easier to put in & work on than a wedgebut remember, none of this is exactly "low dollar". The car itself (an A-body) can have 'most any mods you want, but the engine/driveline had better be up for it as you'll KNOW you don't have an old wedge sitting under the hood..........Good Luck!
 
yep, mine fit too with no hammering with a set of stock valve covers. but, 2" valve gear and the big valve covers i had to use with them required some modification. i still think it would have been a ***** to get the valve covers off and on though for valve lash with any cover on my car.
 
Gryzynx said:
A hemi you say? Hmmm. Are we talking 1st gen, (392), 2nd gen, (426), or new hemi? I'm also assuming A body, not E body?
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yes,my 68 barracuda.thinking 426, but nothings in stone. I'm like a fine artist, my thoughts change more often than the wind! LOL! man I'm warped!
fortunately or unfortunately, doing something with cars is not high on my priority list. although the beast would have the wow factor of the elephant, would I be better off with a stroker 360 instead? timeline doesn't matter, wife says do whatever! lol
the barracuda was to be a driver car, so,,,,,,,,,,,,, is it worth the headaches of putting the elephant in?
 
Another note I believe Indy Legend Hemi heads are taller... I know they almost hit on Ebodies' right inner fender.
 
is it worth the headaches of putting the elephant in?[/QUOTE]

mThat's the thing...it's not really a headache. My guess is you'd have more headaches trying to run a high strung high horsepower smallblock on the street than you would the Hemi. Of course you could always compromise & use a 3rd gen Hemi & have the smallblock thing with Hemi "rep"
 
so, would a mopar perf. crate hemi be,

a: any good without a before teardown, to make sure its intact,

b: install better from the bottom or the top?

c: have install issues just waiting to unfold?

d: or is this the wrong hemi motor altogether?
 
I know the 528" were being built in Bartons shop. I have not checked the prices of them lately. I know you can get a 528" from http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/engines/hemi-killer-krate for 15.5k. Might also want to contact Tim at http://www.forhemisonly.com/index.html . I will be using FHO when I finally get around to it. Hemicop has used Barton in the past and is more than happy with him. Mine will go in from the bottom, but I will be using plates, and with the trans. I will be using there is no way to put the motor/trans in together from the top.
 
plumcrazy704406 said:
so, would a mopar perf. crate hemi be,

a: any good without a before teardown, to make sure its intact,

b: install better from the bottom or the top?

c: have install issues just waiting to unfold?

d: or is this the wrong hemi motor altogether?
Click to expand...


Let's look at this from another angle---what problems do you THINK you'll have installing a Hemi? An article in one of the magizines some years ago mentioned that Barton tests all the 528s he builds prior to shipping, unlike Mopar in their first batch of crate motors. You COULD install the motor from above but then crawl underneath to mount the tranny--- I'd put it all in from below as one unit.
I just don't think it's that tough a swap if you have patience & think things out beforehand.
 
You have to have alot of patience in the beginning BUT in lots of ways a hemi is better than a RB...ONCE you get it in. I have had both motors in my car..

Some things to consider if you change to a hemi..

1 -offset master
2 -cut down column jacket
3 -hood clearance (scoop mandatory with some intakes)
4 -firewall clearance (depends on intake)
5 -steering box and pitman and idler arm clearance
6 -inner fender notch (depending in valvetrain, intake and motor height)
7- smaller steering joint
8 -k-frame spacers
9 -repro k-frame

I went with the most difficult combo with my car.(mopar x-ram (taller that a original manifold)- non x-ram carbs (which require spacers) and I insisted on running air cleaners which made the already negligable hood clearance non existant.

Unfortunately in my situation I had to do ALL the mods and then some!

In addition to modifications 1 thru 7 above I used a stock K-frame and made my own spool mounts (so I could lower the motor)
- Cut and re-routed 3 tubes for clearance on off the shelf Hedman's
- Sectioned and re-glassed a 3/8 extension on a Glasstek stock scoop to make it taller .

I also made my own dolly so I can install the entire assembled motor and trans together from underneath.- I have had everything in and out myself about 6 times with all the mockup.

It is a real lifesaver..

It's slow going as I am doing the ENTIRE car myself - sent out only the machine work and the tig welding for the rollbar.

It's the only way I can afford it - It's the car I have wanted since I was 11 yrs old so I don't mind the wait!!

Be glad to help anyone with questions
 
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