How much power can the stock rods in a 383 B handle with a blower?

[Gustavo_383_Blower]

I'm currently buinding a blown and nitrous 383 B, we are expecting to push something between 600hp - 700hp. I've bought forged pistons already, but I'm still with the original rods because of the price (I live in Brazil, the importing taxes are absurd). Is it safe to utilize the original rods pushing this kind of power?

The Specs:

• Dodge 383 B
• 6.73 Blower Pushing 2.2 Lbs
• 50hp Nitrous shot
• Original heads with porting and more improvements
• 9:1
• Crower cam 32980 Dur @ .050” Lift: 230°/230° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .461”/.461” LSA: 114°
• Fuel injected on Ethanol
• Expected Redline 5000-6000Rpm

 

[Murray]

That is a lot of motor. Do not use stock rods.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Put good rods in it. You’ll never leave the nitrous at 50hp and you’ll never leave the pulley on the blower that only makes 2lbs of boost. The cost of good rods is worth it.

 

[33IMP]

Agree with above. Minor blower pressure might not be a problem. Small nitrous shot might not be a problem
Together? I'd much rather have good rods (AND GREAT BOLTS) in it.
(Even tho rpm is what breaks rods, not cylinder pressure).

 

[Oldmanmopar]

The best advise I can give you is to put a very large diaper under the car. You may be able to save the body if you can keep it off the wall.

Here is a plug for my sons shop. He repairs windowed blocks. So try and gather all the pieces you can.

 

[Gustavo_383_Blower]

I think the stroke is 6.358 in., does anyone knows where I can find these forged rods? I already looked on jegs, summit, eagle and a bunch of sites. On eBay there seems to be one set of it, but its code is for a BBC. Obs: I already bought the internals for dodge, so I cant utilize the chevy ones.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't think the rods will be the weak point, IMO. That said, I wouldn't run stock rods. In the failures I've seen, something else almost always takes the rod(s) out. Having a better than stock rod, might keep the damage to more of a minimum, because if one's gonna come apart, it's gonna come apart.

 

[Gustavo_383_Blower]

I don't think the rods will be the weak point, IMO. That said, I wouldn't run stock rods. In the failures I've seen, something else almost always takes the rod(s) out. Having a better than stock rod, might keep the damage to more of a minimum, because if one's gonna come apart, it's gonna come apart.

What's the most common points of failure? I've bought forged pistons, all bolts, nuts and etc for internals are forged too.

 

[TT5.9mag]

What's the most common points of failure? I've bought forged pistons, all bolts, nuts and etc for internals are forged too.

Bad assembly practices. Not using enough ring gap or skirt clearance. Then rod bolts, then tight bearing clearance, then pistons (mostly because of tight ring gap), then rods.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

(I live in Brazil, the importing taxes are absurd).

The "absurd price" is going to be really cheap compared to the overall cost when a stock rod let's go and ruins everything in the engine.

Stock rods where made for passenger car engines. Not race engines.

Do the forged pistons you bought have provisions (grooves) for spirolox? Because aftermarket rods are bushed for full floating wrist pins.

Tom

 

[33IMP]

Prostock Tom is a dealer for Molnar. That's whose rods EYE would run. MOLNAR.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The "absurd price" is going to be really cheap compared to the overall cost when a stock rod let's go and ruins everything in the engine.

Stock rods where made for passenger car engines. Not race engines.

Do the forged pistons you bought have provisions (grooves) for spirolox? Because aftermarket rods are bushed for full floating wrist pins.

Tom

To the OP, you need to talk to this cat right here. ^^^^^^ He KNOWS what you need. Over and out.

 

[MMissile]

Underdrive it 50%.

 

[Gustavo_383_Blower]

The "absurd price" is going to be really cheap compared to the overall cost when a stock rod let's go and ruins everything in the engine.

Stock rods where made for passenger car engines. Not race engines.

Do the forged pistons you bought have provisions (grooves) for spirolox? Because aftermarket rods are bushed for full floating wrist pins.

Tom

I've got these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2315nf30/make/dodge. Can you tell me if they are compatible? I'm struggling to build this engine here; mechanics have no literature about it, only for the 318 and 360 small blocks (the only ones that were produced here). I'm trying to find these to match it: https://eaglerod.com/item/5523613-4340-rod-chry-383-400-rod, but I'm not certain that they will fit, and I don't have many options for the B either. I've tried to find it on Molnar too, but couldn't find any that matched the specs in the catalogue. If you have some for sale, or can indicate where to find a compatible model, it would be very much appreciated.
PS: When I said that was expensive, with taxes and shipping to Brazil, 700 bucks turns into almost 2000, my daily driver costs about that much LOL.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

The best advise I can give you is to put a very large diaper under the car. You may be able to save the body if you can keep it off the wall.

Here is a plug for my sons shop. He repairs windowed blocks. So try and gather all the pieces you can.

Lol

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I've got these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2315nf30/make/dodge. Can you tell me if they are compatible? I'm struggling to build this engine here; mechanics have no literature about it, only for the 318 and 360 small blocks (the only ones that were produced here). I'm trying to find these to match it: https://eaglerod.com/item/5523613-4340-rod-chry-383-400-rod, but I'm not certain that they will fit, and I don't have many options for the B either. I've tried to find it on Molnar too, but couldn't find any that matched the specs in the catalogue. If you have some for sale, or can indicate where to find a compatible model, it would be very much appreciated.
PS: When I said that was expensive, with taxes and shipping to Brazil, 700 bucks turns into almost 2000, my daily driver costs about that much LOL.

Those pistons are for a press fit 1.094" wrist pin, with no provisions for spirolox.

Here's the issue you're going to run into. None of the aftermarket rods, including the Eagle rods you have listed are setup for press fit pins.

Those Eagle rods have bronze bushing and are only for full floating applications, so they wouldn't work with your pistons if you could find a set of them.

The next problem is every 383-400 aftermarket crankshaft (At least Molnar) that's produced today is set up to use a 2.200" BBC rod journal, and all of the pistons that are available

for use with full floating pins use .990" BBC wrist pins. There are many reasons for this, but mainly to improve clearance on the big end to block on stroker cranks, availability, and

increased pin selection.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those Speed-Pro pistons are honestly not the pistons you need if you want to use an aftermarket connecting rod.

If you have any questions just drop me a PM. Happy to help you get it sorted in any way.

Tom

 

[Lefty71]

What's the most common points of failure? I've

I dont have the official mopar database in front of me here lol.....but the most common failure of bone stock BBMopar motors that ive seen and heard thru the years has been spun rod bearing. And thats not on motors with power adders involved. I would not risk what you are considering.

 

[subcom]

Here is a part number for you. They’re not cheap though. Boa sorte!
Eagle CRS6358C3D H Beam Connecting Rods 6.358 Chrysler B 400

 

[OLDSTYLE]

Check out 440 Source. com part # 200-1149 I don't know if they will work for your application, but they have cap screw bolts and are new forgings. I have a set in a 600+ hp B block turning 6500 RPM. (I did change the bolts to ARP bolts because I didn't like the looks of the supplied bolts.)

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here is a part number for you. They’re not cheap though. Boa sorte!
Eagle CRS6358C3D H Beam Connecting Rods 6.358 Chrysler B 400

Since when is a blower motor cheap anyway? lol

 

[MadScientistMat]

What's the most common points of failure? I've bought forged pistons, all bolts, nuts and etc for internals are forged too.

I'd list "Detonation" for the most common way to break parts on a combo like that.

 

[fishmens67]

A good set of stock 383 rods will handle as much as the block, as with anything 50/50 chance even if you went with high dollar parts.
The tune will be the real determining factor if the engine lives or not.
My suggestion is pick one power adder for the first phase.

 

[MopaR&D]

I could be wrong but I don't think 2.2 psi of boost and a 50-shot of nitrous will make 600hp on a stock-stroke 9:1 383 with a cam and ported stock heads. More like 500, if that. I feel like that low of boost pressure would barely even overcome parasitic losses of driving the blower itself. Stock rods might hold up. Now if we were talking 6 psi and a 150-shot, much less likely.

 

[TT5.9mag]

I could be wrong but I don't think 2.2 psi of boost and a 50-shot of nitrous will make 600hp on a stock-stroke 9:1 383 with a cam and ported stock heads. More like 500, if that. I feel like that low of boost pressure would barely even overcome parasitic losses of driving the blower itself. Stock rods might hold up. Now if we were talking 6 psi and a 150-shot, much less likely.

I agree completely. The stock parts will definitely hold up to what he’s doing (50 shot and 2psi). BUT my guess is he won’t even get out of the driveway before it has a party pulley on it and big pills in the n20. I know I wouldnt.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

I made 570+ hp at the wheels with my stock appearing 451" using a stock, appropriately prepared 1970 440 crank and LY rods with 1.320" CH Ross pistons We put at least 50 bottles of n20 through that engine no prep racing and street driving. It split a cylinder idling front of my shop. The LY rod bent in an "S" shape and did not break. My standard tune up was between an .075 and an .082 nitrous jet. It had iron crane rockers, 906 heads, comp 294h cam with a-body manifolds so nothing exotic. I typically utilize h rods in any performance engine yet we had good luck with our stock appearing 383 combination.