How much to stock rebuild a 360?

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SirDan

SirDan

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I have a fellow mopar friend that has a stock rebuilt 360 in his duster with a cam and a few bolt ons. he took me for a ride and i have to say i would be happy with a similar engine. I already have a 340 cam and lifters and a torker 340/360 manifold. My dad also has a complete 360 in the garage i can probaly get my hands on. Anyway ive never built an engine before so i dont know what it will cost. I plan on doing as much myself as possible with some help from my fellow mopar buddy who knows his way around an engine. could anyone give me an estimated cost?

As long as i dont win that stroker motor at carlisle this is the next peice of my build i need to save for.
 
depends on how much machine work you need. Just a refresh with new mains cam and goodies would probably set you back 2-5 hundred bucks.
And you cant win the engine cause my buddy swears he's gonna win it
 
Assuming that you wan't to have everything fairly fresh, I have seen complete 360 rebuild kits with new pistons(cast) less cam and lifters for around $325. Head recondition around $250 pr, and around here bore and hone is running about $225. Cam bearing install and misc. other stuff $200. If you want to go cheap with original pistons hone it yourself and lap your own valves and pressure wash the block. You can probably do it for about $400-500
 
Thanks guys! ill have to ask my dad but i think the engine in the garage is relatively low miles and was in running condition so i might luck out and not need alot of machine shop work. :cheers:
 
Mind you it's an "AMC 360" but I have one at the machine shop right now, I quoted the owner of the vehicle about $2,400.00 in parts and machine work:

Boring .030
turn the crank
rebuild heads with new exh. valves and hardened seats,
rebuild the rods and press on and off pistons
hot tank and install cam bearings

the parts were the o/haul kit, exh. valves, rebuilt harmonic balancer, and because it's an AMC and the oil pump is part of the front timing cover and the pump housing is not in good shape the front cover is like $300.00 that I'm having to replace. Out of the above total, machine work is $997.00. Again because it's a AMC instead of a Chebby, the parts cost about 1/3 more!!!
 
The only cheap engine is a Chevy engine since nearly everybody and there mother has one hot rodded. The old chevy engines were made popular quickly and hence the cheap parts reason. Everybody else is expensive unless it is a Cad. or Buick engine, then it's really expensive!

Dan, figure about 2G. Who's machine shop are you going to?
 
I'd say $2500ish or so depending on the shop and what they re-use. A performance rebuild (meaning better pistons and cam) would cost around $3000-ish again re-using a bunch of stuff.
 
Dan, if it's a low milage motor and it ran fine when pulled, why not just put your 340 cam in it?
You wanna run a good dual plane intake with that too. I would actually want a hotter cam than that but the 340 cam will be a huge step up in power over the stock cam.
 
Ya know Moper, I think your more accurate.

Dave, I agree, the Torker or TorkerII needs a decent sized street cam. The OE 340 cam is a nice one, but not with the Torker.
 
A stock rebuild absolutely nothing fancy rebuilder type of parts...polish crank/bore and hone/valve job...$1675.00
 
This is where i draw the line myself. If all I want is a stock motor and someone else is gonna rebuild it why not buy a long block from one of the reputable rebuilders out there.Its a lot cheaper than Mopers 3k and has a guarantee and warranty. If it was a numbers car or a performance build I would understand but its not.Why invest more time and money than nessesary.
 
daredevil said:
why not buy a long block from one of the reputable rebuilders out there.Why invest more time and money than nessesary.
Click to expand...

I can see the logic and I'd agree in a perfect world. But having "been there and done that" I don't believe their are any reputable rebuilders and a warranty in most cases is a legal wrangling to get compensated for everything that goes along with a long block.. Like removal/installation, shipping, support parts (water pump, etc.). Mass rebuilders rebuild knowing it only needs to get past the warranty and the work and parts are simply mediocre at best. I never had seen some shady actions until I took apart mass rebuilder problem engines.
 
In the case of the 1971 AMC 360 I posted on here about, I called to get a price on a rebuilt long block for this guy, first, most couldn't give me a price because of the year, it seems they are hard to find for that year but a late 70's or early 80's was available. the two places that gave me an estimate were with in a few hundred dollars of what it's costing for the machine work and and parts. I'm not really charging the guy but a couple hundred to assemble and install it. And at least I know what was replaced/rebuilt in my engine!
 
daredevil said:
why not buy a long block from one of the reputable rebuilders out there.
Click to expand...

The rebuilders are building to a price point, that's why. I want a bit more peace of mind than most warranties offer. If I build it myself, or have a reputable local shop do it, I know what short cuts have been taken and why.

For example:
  1. What parts are being re-used? What steps are taken to insure they are sound?
  2. Has the crank been turned? If so, what was done to re-harden the journals? Have all journals been turned?
  3. If a different crank is used, has the block been line bored?
  4. Have the cylinders been bored? All of them? Were oversized pistons used or were rings "stretched" to fit.
  5. What has been done with/to the cylinder heads?
  6. What kind of hardware, gaskets, and fasteners have been used in the rebuild?
This is a list of things I have seen with engines done by various rebuilders. Some of the things are un-ethical to be sure. When I went shopping for a long block, no one could assure me that the one I would get would have a turned crank (didn't want) and an over bore (did want).

I've never seen chrome or moly rings or full roller timing chains offered on a rebuild. Choice of camshafts or cylinder heads? Fuggitaboutit.

As far as I am concerned about my rebuilds is that the warranty consists of my, my toolbox, and a pile of receipts for the components/services used. The rebuild I did for the Demon ran about 30% more than a parts box store rebuild but it has what I want in it. I also know that it wasn't built to a price point, but to perform and last.
 
First, decide WHAT you want from your engine. Economy, many years of service, power to tow or a fire-belching tire burner. Then, find and talk to a good machinist about your plan.
Mopar Muscle Magazine, (and others) have done several low-budget builds with building tips, parts and labor prices listed, (check their archives). Keeping it close to factory specs. will make for more dependability. The best money spent for power is in the heads and cam. High compression, (above 9:1) is not usually best (for many reasons) for a street engine. A street engine rarely exceeds 5,000 rpm. so building a 7,500 rpm. screamer is likely to disappoint. Most of the time, mid-range torque is usually more satisfying than high-rpm. horse-power.
So plan your engine build with realistic use in mind. Monster cams & valves, high compression and over-carburation may end up disappointing you. But a well thought out build is the only way to go.
 
Rob R said:
A stock rebuild absolutely nothing fancy rebuilder type of parts...polish crank/bore and hone/valve job...$1675.00
Click to expand...

I got away about that cheap rcently, but that isn't exactly fair possibility for most engines out there or location prices. Truly, one will never know until the get into the engine.
 
True, I got less than 500 in a 318 right now..... just had to take a lot of motors apart to find the best and tightest pieces! Thank god for old Chrysler steel cranks that never wear out!

I would say a do it yourselfer, coulr get away with 1500$ if the crank just needs a polish, and the pistons are re-used. But I would never ever ever put a dish piston in a 360. It is amazing the difference it makes with just a flat top. Low end torque, AND mpg.

And I say, while not the best match, I think the 360 wouldn't run too shabby with the 340 cam and the single plane.
 
I'm actually in the middle of rebuilding this 318 I have right now, and am trying to do it on the cheap...I just tore it apart, and bought a re-ring kit from summit which includes all the gaskets, main and rod bearings, and all the rings. I'm re-using the cast .060 over pistons that are about .050 thousandths in the hole...The re-ring kit was $195. I had to buy cam bearings, which were $33 and payed $40 to have them installed by a machine shop. I borrowed a ball hone and honed the cylinders, used a carbide bit to de-burr the whole block, and pressure washed it. Keeping all the brass freeze plugs that were already in the block. (There was no need to remove them) I polished the crank and reused the rods and bolts.

I then bought a summit harmonic balancer as mine was shot. That was $80. A Mopar Performance aluminum water pump was $63. I also added a Mopar Performance viscous fan package which was $120. And also the MP windage tray which was $85. I decided to use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and lifter kit that I already had purchased 5 years ago for $120. I then bought an Edelbrock Performer manifold for $140. The Comp Cams double roller timing set was $45 and the timing chain tensioner was $36. I also found that I needed a new dipstick, so a mancini racing plain steel one was $15.

So, because the cam recommends adjustable rockers, I had to buy a set of stainless PRW roller rockers from a member on this site, which was $350. And new pushrods, which were $60.A new Melling standard volume oil pump was $30, and a new oil pump driveshaft was $40, mine had some wear that I was unsure of. And I also replaced that bronze bushing in the block which was $8.

This completes the short block...Right now I am at $1375 for a total in parts...When I was bolting on the roller rockers, I noticed some of them needed clearancing, so I took a straight edge to all the valves and no two were the same length, so I will get the price soon of the cost of a valve job for my heads. LOL ..TO BE CONTINUED...

So, I guess now you can get an idea on how a rebuild can have a SNOWBALL affect...
 
rumblefish360 said:
Dan, figure about 2G. Who's machine shop are you going to?
Click to expand...

No clue.

mopar340dave said:
Dan, if it's a low milage motor and it ran fine when pulled, why not just put your 340 cam in it?
You wanna run a good dual plane intake with that too. I would actually want a hotter cam than that but the 340 cam will be a huge step up in power over the stock cam.
Click to expand...

Im not sure why it dident dawn on me to just slap the 360 in. I would think it would be a large improvement over the stock 318. Then i could have fun now with the 360 while i save to build one up, which could take a while. (you know how it is)
 
do you have a dual plane 4 barrel intake? that, combined with a 340 cam and stock everything else, will scream...to the tune of 6000+ rpm and over 300 hp! And then you could pick up another engine to build or just build and maybe stroke the 318 you already have. I'm building a 318 turbo engine.
 
SirDan said:
Im not sure why it dident dawn on me to just slap the 360 in. I would think it would be a large improvement over the stock 318. Then i could have fun now with the 360 while i save to build one up, which could take a while. (you know how it is)
Click to expand...

(Oh yea, I'm still exp. it! LOL!....Groooooan!)

Dan, IF you need to drive the car now, use what ever engine works best.
The engine you want to end up with, save the money to do the work on. If the car has a running 318 in ti now, just use it. No sense in doing all this work and throwing money at it.

The 318 is in the car now right? Then use it. If you want more power out of it for a "For Now" fun engine car combo, just get the basics for it, install them and IMO swap them over to the 340 later.

Like if you want a RPM on the 340, use it for now on the 318.

The basics would be headers, carb, intake, cam.
You can reuse it all IG you wanted to.
 
It would be better if i slapped it on the 318 since im planning on swapping a 4 speed in and allready bought a flywheel. Im just concerned the 318 might be a bit tired. But then again it might just need some "waking up" from a few bolt ons. I think ill probaly just do what i can with the teen it sounds like the best way to go. So my intake probaly wont work good on the 318 with the cam will it? is there something better i can pickup cheap at carlisle? or should i just use mine? I mean im not necisarily going for the BEST combo or anything. hell for now the best i can do cheap is really the goal. So far the cam and lifters were free and that intake was 20 bucks. Im pretty sure theres a 600cfm edelbrock performer carburator too that i could at the very least "borrow" from my father too. I think if you guys throw out some suggestions for better cheap intakes and i spot a good deal at carlisle ill get that and ditch the torker. but if i cant find a good deal ill just use the torker. hey its gotta be better than the 2 barrel manifold rite?
 
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