Is this engine builder nuts?

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Maybe I'm missing something here. I have planned in finding an engine builder to at least get my 318 into a rowdy long block. I found a company near my work that builds engines, mostly ford, but some mopar too. After talking to him for an hour his thoughts were:

To get 350hp from a 318 you need 10:1 cr. He's also pushing for a roller cam and roller rockers. I'm unsure of what Pistons he had in mind. We also discussed porting and polishing my 273 920 casting heads. He claims with a cr of 9.5:1 and the valve train work I'll be about 320 hp.

Does this sound right? I guess I was under the impression it took less to get hp from a 318.

He's also saying for $5500 he will do all the needed block and head work, source the valve train parts, intake, water pump, and pistons, balance the assembly, and install the engine in the car to see it run. I'm still coming to terms with the price, I can't figure out if it's a decent deal or not. ThoughtS?

well, his price is about average really. HP is about right too....

What you're seeing is the cost to build vs hp gained. I ran into this myself when trying to decide between building the 318 I had or going with the 440....I chose the 440. More bang for the exact same cost. A lot more bang.
 
well, his price is about average really. HP is about right too....

What you're seeing is the cost to build vs hp gained. I ran into this myself when trying to decide between building the 318 I had or going with the 440....I chose the 440. More bang for the exact same cost. A lot more bang.



And I guess it comes down to deciding if I need that much "bang." I think sticking with a budget 318 is the right choice. Now it just comes down to who's gonna build it
 
Assuming that I go with the 318 that I already have, and open up the ports on my 273 heads, are there intakes that are made for 360s that would be a better match for the increased port size? Or do all intakes more or less interchange between 318/340/360?
 
A $300 360 core would be money well spent towards your goals. Not hard to get to 320hp, way more torque, and at less radical level without the expense of porting. Redoing old heads and portwork quickly gets to the point you can buy new, and the 273 heads need seats. Saving a $ will cost 100's
 
When I came on this forum a year and a half ago I was hell bent to make my 318 the beast. Well after I started looking at parts prices for like stroker kits, I found a 318 more expensive than a 360 because they were less commonly built ? More money for less!?? It was like a $200 difference. My machine shop sold me a 360 block for $150. Thus making a 360 stroker for LESS than a 318. I have since found a 360 with 596heads for $50. It will likely replace my wife's 273 in her 66 barracuda some day.
Okay , almost everyone on here will tell you "make a plan and stick to it".
Remember a machine shop is going to mark up parts 15% or so, so bring your own and save.
also when you start adding arp bolts and stuff the cost go up.
we know what you want- what we all want ---- MORE POWER!!! and better time slips.....
 
Assuming that I go with the 318 that I already have, and open up the ports on my 273 heads, are there intakes that are made for 360s that would be a better match for the increased port size? Or do all intakes more or less interchange between 318/340/360?

273's and 318's use the same small ports, except some police engines. I tend to use small port intakes on small port, 273/318 heads and large port intakes on large port, 340/360, heads, but you can really use any intake on the small port heads without any problems. If you are on a tight budget, all the 340 and 360 intakes are very good.
 
Ok so a new option just opened up for me...found an engine builder a few hours away that will sell me a LA 318 9:1 long block with ported heads and bigger valves, ground crank, tanked block, mild lope cam, etc. he claims 310-340 hp and 300lb of torque, for $2999. I bring him my core 318. I figure another $1000 for an intake, carb, distributor, etc. then obviously I do the install myself, which doesn't scare me. I know you guys prefer the 360, but I can't find an off the shelf long block 360 at that price. I'll keep looking at 360s but this is an interesting option
 
The key to making power is all in the heads everything else is there to support it. 273/318 heads where designed for a 273 and for that engine there good flowing but not for a 318 which is 45 cid bigger. They can be made to work or ok stock if your looking for 300 hp or less but there not really worth the time and money when looking for more. With low flowing heads you need a lot of cam and CR to squeeze every last hp out of them. Or the better way like the new Hemi's or LS is to put really good flowing heads and smaller cam so you get power and drivability.

Now engine size look at it as a powerband selector, most engines have a 5000 rpm powerband give or take and cubic inch don't make hp. With similar parts 318,340,360 and 408 etc will make similar power but at different rpm. So 350 hp 318 will make peak around 6000rpm and a 408 would probably be under 5000rpm.

And torque is a 2 part equation everyone looks at crank numbers but it's the torque to the ground that matters. So most decent engines will make 1.1:1 - 1.3:1 torque to cid. Thats why bigger engines rule the street is cause most people only want to run 3.23 -3.91 gears which is way under geared for most engines to get max performance out of them. Since torque is proportional to engine size so is gearing. Take a 3.55:1 525 lbs-ft 408 and take 2.74:1 first gear times 3.55 and 525 equals 5100 lbs-ft to be divided by the tires. Since a 318 is about 72 % smaller it needs 28% more gear (100% - 72%) so a 318 needs 4.56 plus to even come close to the acceleration of the 408 and a Max performance 408 probably needs around 4.10 and a 318 would be 5.13 plus range. So you can put the torque in the engine (size) or the rear gear so when it comes to building smaller engines if your ok with gearing it then build it if not move up the cid ladder.

I concur with the 360 magnum, the old 300 hp create motor was a dead stock 5.9 and with headers said to make 320 hp with cam up to 400 hp and after market heads 450 hp and if you get a low mileage or decent one you can get away without rebuilding for now. $$$$
 
The good thing about the lower HP is that the stock 318 rods will live all OK.

FWIW.... I'd start with a simple, solid lower end rebuild with:
- New bearings, cam bearings, intermediate shaft bushing, perhaps new intermediate shaft, basic timing chain & gear set with +4/-4/0 degree setting, oil pump, oil and core plugs, gaskets and decent pistons/rings. I'd get a stock Pioneer damper if the rubber is bad/old/cracked a lot on yours.
- For a budget street build, ideally stick with pistons that are close to stock weights so you don't have to rebalance and with a decent compression height to bring them up closer to the deck for some CR. The problem is finding inexpensive 318 pistons that are near the stock 592 gr weight AND has good compression height. Some options to consider:
> The KB167's get the pistons well up into the hole, but a roughly computed bobweight is 2035 gr vs 2150 gr stock. At least, for a balance job, weight will be removed, not added, so that keeps balancing cost down. Static CR will be in the low 9's range with an .053" thick head gasket and no head shaving and closed chamber heads.
> The Speed Pro's are down in the hole like the stock pistons, but have closer weight to stock. So with those, you would have shave stock closed chamber heads around .030" or to go with magnum heads to get the CR up into the mid 8 range.
> Similar for the TRW L2329F's: a bit better CR than the Speed Pro's, and weight is supposed to be very close to stock, so (probably) no rebalancing is needed. Static CR will end up in the mid 8's range with no head shaving and a .028" head gasket and closed chamber heads. This my be the best low budget combo, IF you can get the TRW pistons. (I see one set for sale on ebay right now.)

BTW, just a side comment for the machine work: Any machinist will make more dough by doing more for you, not less. So examine any suggestions like porting the 273 heads with that in the back of your mind.
 
Ok so a new option just opened up for me...found an engine builder a few hours away that will sell me a LA 318 9:1 long block with ported heads and bigger valves, ground crank, tanked block, mild lope cam, etc. he claims 310-340 hp and 300lb of torque, for $2999. I bring him my core 318. I figure another $1000 for an intake, carb, distributor, etc. then obviously I do the install myself, which doesn't scare me. I know you guys prefer the 360, but I can't find an off the shelf long block 360 at that price. I'll keep looking at 360s but this is an interesting option
Get an exact list of parts inside before going any further, like piston numbers, cam models, head casting numbers, valve springs. etc., and share that info. I'd be reeeally careful on this one... lots of potential for crap parts and junk, and too easy to makes untrue claims on HP/torque. Read up on the recent thread by 496 Polara on his bargain $1000 crate motor heads....
 
Get an exact list of parts inside before going any further, like piston numbers, cam models, head casting numbers, valve springs. etc., and share that info. I'd be reeeally careful on this one... lots of potential for crap parts and junk, and too easy to makes untrue claims on HP/torque. Read up on the recent thread by 496 Polara on his bargain $1000 crate motor heads....

Yeah I just noticed they have some pretty bad reviews.


I guess where I stand now I'm not opposed to a 360 per se…One thing that really makes me hesitant about it is the whole LA vs Magnum stuff…I just haven't done enough research to determine exactly what using a magnum motor entails, especially as far as using TTI headers goes.

Also I have no idea what it takes to convert an EFI magnum to carb, and what smog alterations I can and should do…The goal was a simple, old school period correct engine. I've got homework to do if I want power on the cheap though.
 
The biggest problem I see is your heads !!
Why waste money on 273 heads ?
Get some eq's if you don't want to go aluminum .
318 will work but you must love your heads because that's not money well spent ?
 
Yeah I just noticed they have some pretty bad reviews.


I guess where I stand now I'm not opposed to a 360 per se…One thing that really makes me hesitant about it is the whole LA vs Magnum stuff…I just haven't done enough research to determine exactly what using a magnum motor entails, especially as far as using TTI headers goes.

Also I have no idea what it takes to convert an EFI magnum to carb, and what smog alterations I can and should do…The goal was a simple, old school period correct engine. I've got homework to do if I want power on the cheap though.

http://www.magnumswap.com

Magnum is mostly the same as an LA engine

You don't have to run fuel injection most don't
 
For what it's Worth.
Below you can see my 'Teen. I have no idea what the "HP" number is on it.
It is in my '75 4 Door.
It is possibly the funnest thing I have ever driven.
Nice on the street. Plenty to cook the 245's in the rear any time I want to.
Still not too bad in the 65mph range.
Cheapest fun I have ever had and I have had a few 'Fun' Cars.
Question is do you want a 'Fun' Driver or a Serious motor?
I would be afraid of hurting my motor if it cost me $5500.
My teen? Not worried about it at all....
 
If your still going the rebuilt way you don't need a magnum any 360 will do, main reason for the magnums is they have slightly better compression and can find ones with a lot of life in the short block so you can spend your money on fun stuff like heads, cam, headers etc...
And in stock form the heads seem to offer more power potential than LA which is the main difference between the two.
 
I don't know $5500 is nice down payment on used Challenger
2009 R/T's are selling for 17K to 19K
Just say'in
 
This may come as a surprise to you, but this is the first time I've gotten a quote from an engine builder. I have no clue what's reasonable and what's not. Kinda why I came here.

My apologies. I didn't read the original post as "newbie", but rather as "complaint department". I think, even in terms of the cheaper areas of the country (a land only of myth for those of us in CT) the price is good, including the labor to install and fire it. Plus, his ideas are spot on in terms of pretty much everything. So unless the guy can't execute well, you've got a reasonable cost and the right concept with him.
 
My apologies. I didn't read the original post as "newbie", but rather as "complaint department". I think, even in terms of the cheaper areas of the country (a land only of myth for those of us in CT) the price is good, including the labor to install and fire it. Plus, his ideas are spot on in terms of pretty much everything. So unless the guy can't execute well, you've got a reasonable cost and the right concept with him.



Thanks, good to know the general consensus is that he's legit at least up front. The other bit of news I just found out is he's willing to negotiate a service swap with me. In a graphic designer and he needs a website, business cards, and some other items. I'm hopefully going to go talk to him today. If he agrees, I'm hoping he'll do it at cost, or maybe around $1500 after I give him my services!
 
Maybe I'm missing something here. I have planned in finding an engine builder to at least get my 318 into a rowdy long block. I found a company near my work that builds engines, mostly ford, but some mopar too. After talking to him for an hour his thoughts were:

To get 350hp from a 318 you need 10:1 cr. He's also pushing for a roller cam and roller rockers. I'm unsure of what Pistons he had in mind. We also discussed porting and polishing my 273 920 casting heads. He claims with a cr of 9.5:1 and the valve train work I'll be about 320 hp.

Does this sound right? I guess I was under the impression it took less to get hp from a 318.

He's also saying for $5500 he will do all the needed block and head work, source the valve train parts, intake, water pump, and pistons, balance the assembly, and install the engine in the car to see it run. I'm still coming to terms with the price, I can't figure out if it's a decent deal or not. ThoughtS?
To me the price doesn't really sound high. Talking about replacing all the wear items, buying the new parts, converting to roller cam, buying roller rockers, replacing pistons, porting, and redoing the heads.

However. On such a complete deal, the question moves not to how much less you may want to get it done, but how much more you may want for your money. Not having to buy $800 worth of roller lifters and cams can put you money ahead to buy better heads. Having better heads can increase where your HP will end up. To me- you could do it for less, but probably right around there at his prices you could have a 390 Magnum running in the car at quite possibly 100 more HP- so adjusting what you're after could turn that from a good deal to a very good one.

That said, if you were to go cheaper, I'd obtain a good running 318 or 360 Magnum, convert it to run in the car however you want, and be happy with the 240-320HP depending on what your "stock" installation ends up being. It'll be a world of difference over the 920 head teen and that'll be all over the range.

Magnums are LAs. You can convert to carb by simply using LA components. The front cover, accessories, an LA-spec cam (there's long snout rollers too), mech fuel pump, distributor, an LA intake, all can be used in conversion to carb of a Magnum motor. That's not the only way, just a way that clarifies just how LA the Magnums are. They saw relaxed smog restrictions and had an easier time meeting them with fewer devices.

Well I guess I could always go the magnum route, but if he's right I suppose I should adjust my expectations
Yes. Those small port 318 parts are not very conducive to power. People use them as a band-aid for smog motors' compression but the flow isn't there. Even if you're only putting a few hundred in a motor there's better choices.

Or the better way like the new Hemi's or LS is to put really good flowing heads and smaller cam so you get power and drivability.
Smaller cam? They have pretty good sized rollers. Small compared to race motors, very large compared to what any A motor ever got. MPFI really tames them despite the cams being a bit large. They're just soft on the low end until they get up into their range. Relatively small bores, mid-sized valves, and long strokes.

The 340s and E58s had a powerband comparable to the lower of the LS and Hemi motors. The Magnums had powerbands more like the smog motors peaking around 1000 under any of those. Longer stroke means less RPM for the same HP. Less RPM for the same HP means you need less gear to hit your peak.
 
Smaller cam? They have pretty good sized rollers. Small compared to race motors, very large compared to what any A motor ever got. MPFI really tames them despite the cams being a bit large. They're just soft on the low end until they get up into their range. Relatively small bores, mid-sized valves, and long strokes. .

They got decent lift numbers but are very short on duration about the same as the magnum, If the magnums cam came with similar lift numbers there would be less of a hp difference between the 5.9 and the 5.7.
 
If your still going with the 318 build I'd stick with something the would work with 3.23:1 or 3.55:1 and stock stall. 9:1 CR, 650 and headers and something like comps xe262h and for heads if you go with stock would get you around 300 hp or you could go with 340/360 or one of the aftermarket magnum heads like EQ which would add 30 or so hp.
 
Hey, there's a 318 stroker here in Phoenix built and ready for $3500 if interested. Get the best of both.

 
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