Is this flexpalate on right? and anyone hear of this brand converter?

[waggin]

you have it on correctly,it will not mount flush if it is backwards and the bolts wont all line up if it's backwards. before you install the trans hold the flexplate up to the convertor and paint one bolt hole and a spot on the convertor to ease finding the right spot.and dont tighten any of the convertor bolts untill all of them are in,the flexplate to the crank bolts are as said 55 lbs torque and the flexplate to convertor bolts are less( I think around 25 lbs torque but I do not have a manual to look in so you should find out)......definately take the flexplate loose from the engine and make sure it bolts to the convertor as there are two diffrent size flexplates and also measure the hub of the convetor and the hub of the crank to make sure they will mate up.

 

[ramcharger]

Ask how many put shoes and coat on to go look for you
I did

I didn't but only because I'm using a B&M.

you guys really have to invest in a damn service manual.. here does this help??

Google's cheaper.

 

[abodyjoe]

google may be cheaper but a service manual seems faster..

 

[ramcharger]

google may be cheaper but a service manual seems faster..

Cut me some slack, I was feeding the dogs. :-D

 

[green1]

It is good; notice the lip around the crank hub. It can only be tightened one way. My experience is- I can only get the converter seated by standing the trans on the tailshaft, need 1 1/4" from ring gear to front of housing; then make a bracket and hold it there.

 

[green1]

The converter should need to be pulled forward, to the plate, about 1/4 ".
About 1/2" bolts, grade 5.

 

[RedFish]

Check the length of your flexplate to troque converter bolts. Thickness of flexplates vary. If the boltts are too long and dimple the TQ shell it can damage the TQ internally. True with OEM converters anyway. I suppose aftermarket converters would run just as close inside.
I find the bolts have a dished or concave end and I grind them to flat even when I'm sure they are short enough and not going to bottom out. Better safe than sorry.

 

[70aarcuda]

your flexplate is on correct...

before you locktight any bolts in...make sure you have all 4 bolts installed...and they will have to be installled all the way to clear the bell housing....

there is one lug on the converter that is offsetted....if you dont have the offsetted lug line up with the offsetted bolt hole on the flexplate you will not get all 4 bolts lined up and started....

a note for future....lay flexplate on converter before installed either one..and put a paint dot on the offsetted lug and bolt hole.....

make sure you use converter bolts....they have a narrow head to clear the bellhousing...

 

[myasylum]

I have another issue (of course) when I bolt on the tranny, I can't turn the converter! The "nub" in the center of the converter sits tight inside the crank shaft, so the converter won't turn to line up the flex plate! Whats up with that?
the converter is all the way in.

???????????????????????

 

[70aarcuda]

converter should turn freely once the engine/trans are mated...

converter probably not fully seated....look at post above with service manual

if you turn converter back and forth...you should hear a clak..clak noise...that would be the converter hub hitting the lugs on the pump....if you hear no clak..clak noise...it is not fully installed...

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Correct. There's nothing in the way of putting the bolts in after it's all shoved together as it gets covered later with the inspection cover. I can't speak to the orientation of the flexplate (because I'm too lazy to go drop my inspection cover), but did this car have a 360 or am I confusing it with another? If so, the converter should have counterweights to accommodate the external balance thing (since the flexplate looks like a neutral balance unit).

"Factory" Mopar flexplates have never had balance weights on them. However you brought up a good point about the converter being a neutral balanced unit. He needs to be sure the engine is internally balanced!

 

[doktor_x]

Be careful with pressure. It sounds like the flats on the converter snout aren't quite engaged with the front pump. Slide the transmission back and turn the converter while pressing it into the transmission. A satisfying *chunk* sound accompanied by "that looks way too far back" will indicate success.

 

[doktor_x]

"Factory" Mopar flexplates have never had balance weights on them. However you brought up a good point about the converter being a neutral balanced unit. He needs to be sure the engine is internally balanced!

Yeah, I worded that kinda poorly. My thinking was along the lines of not knowing if the flexplate had been altered by tacking a weight on it (stranger things have happened) rather than using the partial-eclipse-looking normal plate or if the converter itself was weighted.

He did state that it's been internally balanced though. (post #17)

 

[myasylum]

Well, if it wasn't all the way in, it is now. I accidentally pulled it all the way out, and had to put it back in, in the mean time I got tranny fluid all over the place.
Is it possible since its a Eagle crank that the fitment might be different or wrong??

Thanks.

Oh, and right it is internally balanced.

 

[toolmanmike]

I know of Precision Torque Converters quite well. They are in New Hampton, Iowa and are on my tool route. They re-manufacture converters for the trans. rebuilding industry and do a very high quality job. They also have some stall converters, truck puller , and industrial converters available. toolmanmike http://www.gopnh.com/

 

[bob shaner]

That flex plate will only go on a stock convertor one way (off set pattern) put one bolt in and turn it to check the others, when I take one apart I mark one bolt for reference for insallation.

 

[myasylum]

Now see... I finally think I have it where it should be, before I pull the converter forward. You can see the gap, and that should be right.
BUT it seems like that nub on the converter is sitting tight in the hole of the crankshaft, because the converter still wont turn freely. If I tun the crank the converter turns with it.

Can you sand the inside of the crank possibly, or am I still doing SOMETHING wrong???

Thanks!

 

[doktor_x]

I just scavenged the internet for a published spec on the Eagle crank register and came up with nothing. The converter manufacturer lists a pilot diameter of 1.810, which would work beautifully with the stock crank register. I suspect that the chamfer on the Eagle crank is too narrow or something of this nature.

Time to bust out the calipers and/or Sharpie® marker to track down the interference. :sad7: There may be enough rub marks to see it easily at this point.

 

[myasylum]

WOW! thanks for looking... I actually started another thread specifically to this issue in the Tranny forum, with hopes someone has an answer. Hopefully I wont get yells at for started a second thread??

I am done for the night. I installed the tranny 3 times tonight, with no luck.
on the nub of the converter itself it seems to have a ring around it, possibly a "cap" of some sort, that is what it is getting stuck on (I think?) is that ring, it sticks up a 1/16 of an inch higher or so. I would just sand it more, but suppose it is a cap... that could be bad.