kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
Just got my electronic ignition in the mail today from Mancini Racing. I was wanting to know if anyone has any pointers or suggestions before I install it this weekend?
Just got this in the mail today
- Thread starter kkeith1986
- Start date
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Its pretty easy, just follow the instructions and solder every connection and use heat-shrink to protect the soldered connections.
Take your time and do everything neat.
Take your time and do everything neat.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Is that a plastic gear?
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
yea, i think they are nylon
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
all the newer distributors for the slants come with nylon gears and you can't find the metal ones anywhere from my understanding
I am almost positive the factory distributor I took out of my 73 slant duster had a nylon gear, I still have the distributor if you guys want me to check.
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
I am hoping the gear on the original distributor is metal but I won't find out until I remove it this weekend. If it is metal hopefully I can just swap it out and use the metal one on the new distributor
I had to check this is a distributor out of my 73 duster, first year of the electronic ignition.
This distributor was taken out in the 1980's when my wife blew the motor from not checking the oil, 75K miles.
I tried real hard to get a pic with the distributor tag.
It has the nylon gear, this motor locked up tight on the interstate and the distrubutor still works great today, I would not worry about the nylon gear.
May be slant6dan will chime in.
This distributor was taken out in the 1980's when my wife blew the motor from not checking the oil, 75K miles.
I tried real hard to get a pic with the distributor tag.
It has the nylon gear, this motor locked up tight on the interstate and the distrubutor still works great today, I would not worry about the nylon gear.
May be slant6dan will chime in.
slantscamp
Well-Known Member
yep. no metal gears available. maybe a slanter with a machining background could make one and sell it.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yea I have one, get rid of this plug and solder the wires.
Otherwise you'll probably be chasing an intermittant start issue down the road.
It has ended up being the cause of at least two no start issue on FABO.
cjh
Well-Known Member
You could add an Earth wire from the body of the dizzy to the battery earth....better than relying on the engine block itself....even works for points ignition too.
ESP47
Well-Known Member
The nylon gears are original and work fine. No need for a metal gear. Just don't jam the distributor down into the block or else you could break it. Set it in there easy and let the gear slip into place.
You dont need to remove the two wire connector and solder the wires together; how are you going to be able to easy remove that distributor in the future? Just clean the engine harnesss side of that two wire connection, dab dielectric grease on its contacts, and connect them up. You will have no trouble with this connector, its the same weather tight connection found in the lighting circuits.
If you plan on recurving this distributor, that connector will be most welcome.
Soldering and shrink wrapping splices to the electronic ignition sub harness is a good idea.
Nylon gear lasts forever; factory installed them in millions of these engines over the years.
If you plan on recurving this distributor, that connector will be most welcome.
Soldering and shrink wrapping splices to the electronic ignition sub harness is a good idea.
Nylon gear lasts forever; factory installed them in millions of these engines over the years.
What is the part number. Mancini told me that they couldn't get the slant electronic ignitions anymore...
Tips. Go to a Napa store and get the flat "piggyback" terminals. I like to use them for the wire that goes to the ballast resistor. Then stack the original wire on top of that for a clean connection. Then you can always remove it and make it back to stock whenever you want to.
Tips. Go to a Napa store and get the flat "piggyback" terminals. I like to use them for the wire that goes to the ballast resistor. Then stack the original wire on top of that for a clean connection. Then you can always remove it and make it back to stock whenever you want to.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
No. you don't need to.
Just keep it in mind when you have no spark some morning and wonder why.
That connector heats and cools with the engine, and therefore expands and contracts eventually causing an issue.
I happened to me almost every day before if figured out where the problem was.
(Ran fine the day before, but wouldn't fire in the morning)
It happened to another member here also, so I know it wasn't just a freak accident with my car.
I'd rather cut and resolder and have a car that is that much more reliable.
Personal oppinion I guess.
Your call.
Just keep it in mind when you have no spark some morning and wonder why.
That connector heats and cools with the engine, and therefore expands and contracts eventually causing an issue.
I happened to me almost every day before if figured out where the problem was.
(Ran fine the day before, but wouldn't fire in the morning)
It happened to another member here also, so I know it wasn't just a freak accident with my car.
I'd rather cut and resolder and have a car that is that much more reliable.
Personal oppinion I guess.
Your call.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Re the distributor connector. Lookup my post where I found different types of that "double bullet" connector. Some have a shorter male terminal that doesn't make a good connection, which is likely the source of intermittent problems.
I prefer the nylon gear since it won't wear out the camshaft. Slant camshafts are not common and changing a cam isn't trivial. You can still get replacement gears cheap, so keep a few spares. Best backup is a points distributor in the trunk.
Did the Mancini kit come with a wire harness, or at least the connectors? Price? I changed my 64 slant to electronic, paying $40 for a new e-distributor (ebay), $7 for a pickup (rockauto), and ~$15 for 8-pin HEI module, coil, and cables (PickN'Pull). If I was you, I would consider selling the orange box & ballast and wiring an HEI module and E-core coil. It is a lot of work to wire the inferior and problematic Mopar module.
While you have the distributor out, check the vacuum advance. I think the one with the bent arm, labeled "8.5R" gives better mileage. At least I ordered one termed "high mileage" on rockauto and that is what I got. It was cheap.
I prefer the nylon gear since it won't wear out the camshaft. Slant camshafts are not common and changing a cam isn't trivial. You can still get replacement gears cheap, so keep a few spares. Best backup is a points distributor in the trunk.
Did the Mancini kit come with a wire harness, or at least the connectors? Price? I changed my 64 slant to electronic, paying $40 for a new e-distributor (ebay), $7 for a pickup (rockauto), and ~$15 for 8-pin HEI module, coil, and cables (PickN'Pull). If I was you, I would consider selling the orange box & ballast and wiring an HEI module and E-core coil. It is a lot of work to wire the inferior and problematic Mopar module.
While you have the distributor out, check the vacuum advance. I think the one with the bent arm, labeled "8.5R" gives better mileage. At least I ordered one termed "high mileage" on rockauto and that is what I got. It was cheap.
I had to check this is a distributor out of my 73 duster, first year of the electronic ignition.
This distributor was taken out in the 1980's when my wife blew the motor from not checking the oil, 75K miles.
I tried real hard to get a pic with the distributor tag.
It has the nylon gear, this motor locked up tight on the interstate and the distrubutor still works great today, I would not worry about the nylon gear.
May be slant6dan will chime in.
That alternator is produced April 27th of 1974. So it's for a 1974 slant six.
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
The kit was 189 bucks and came with everything you need to install it (including the wiring harness) Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
I have been busy as hell this week and have not had time to work on the car. I did get a chance to read over the instructions. It all looks really straight forward. My only question I have is the instructions say to remove the old ballast resister. Is this the one located on the firewall on the drivers side? And when I remove it do I just connect the two wires together? Or do I put the new ballast resister in its place?
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Use the ballast resistor that came in the kit. You need one to protect both your coil and the module and using their's insures the correct value. Don't get confused reading about a "dual ballast". That was for an early design that needed a 5 ohm resistor to protect the module itself. Your module has 4 pins so wouldn't use the 2nd ballast.
Did the kit come with a coil? If not, do the instructions say what coils work? I have seen some round factory ones that have "electronic ignition" printed on them, so they probably vary from the points ones in primary resistance. Maybe you can use an MSD Blaster 2 coil. All confusing to me, which is why I prefer HEI and no ballasts.
Did the kit come with a coil? If not, do the instructions say what coils work? I have seen some round factory ones that have "electronic ignition" printed on them, so they probably vary from the points ones in primary resistance. Maybe you can use an MSD Blaster 2 coil. All confusing to me, which is why I prefer HEI and no ballasts.
6pakattack
Well-Known Member
I didn't have any problem with my Nylon gear !! The teeth on the camshaft broke in a number of teeth and didn't harm the nylon gear one bit !!!
rayer:
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
Make sure you have a coil that will work with electronic ignition. I swapped mine over 2 years ago with an autozoo '73 distributor and black ignition box and a Summit Racing harness. 2 weeks later, the car backfired and died leaving me and my sister (and her kids) stranded on the side of the road. The electronic ignition fried the coil. So me and dad went back to autozoo and got a '73 coil. It's worked fine ever since.
Live and learn.
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
Well I got everythng put in tonight. The only thing I still need to do is lengthen one wire because it is a little too tight for comfort. It seems to run good and has good throttle response but now I want to advanvce it maybe 2 degrees and see if I can get a little better response out of it. Right now it is set at 5 degrees.
The only bad part is now I hear a little gear wind coming from the motor. When I started I heard a loud pop and then it ran no problem. The distributor was all the way in but it still makes me think the dist. gear and cam aren"t meshing all the way. Does that gear have to wear in a little or should I pull the distributor back out and make sure the gear isnt messed up?
The only bad part is now I hear a little gear wind coming from the motor. When I started I heard a loud pop and then it ran no problem. The distributor was all the way in but it still makes me think the dist. gear and cam aren"t meshing all the way. Does that gear have to wear in a little or should I pull the distributor back out and make sure the gear isnt messed up?
kkeith1986
Well-Known Member
Nevermind I figured out what the noise was. I pulled the pcv out to get a better listen to the valvetrain and its the pcv making the noise. Apparently now that it idles so smooth you can hear the pcv over the engine.
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