Looking for more HP from a 360

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pinion angle shims was about 2/10's (eliminates wheel hop to a point and improves 60' times)
snubber height was about 2/10's (eliminates axle wind-up big time and and improves 60' times)
tire pressure was about 2/10's (60' times decreased)

300horse, 3300lb car and he should run 12's all day long.
 
The OP was asking for more HP to get into the low-mid 11's. Your reference has no bearing what so ever, other than yes suspension is very important. But he asked about more HP...don't you get it?

Petty: Eddy heads are a nice step up and with porting you'll love them! I've got ported Eddy heads on low 10 sec. cars and they are pump gas and street driven. You cannot go wrong with them.
 
O.k,if I run my 360 bottom end(crank .10 over,pistons .30 over are .21 in the hole)does this give me 9.1 compression?If I add the Eddy RPM heads?What rockers,what cam?And what HP gain will I get?I know I,ll have to change my stall from 2500 to 3500-4000.Any suggestions.I,m really contimplating the 426 stroker kit.:read2:
 
pick a plan and stick to it...lol. Also, if the engine is at .030 over and you're going racing, I would find another block to build into a stroked engine. Or you can tear down the 360 and have it sonic tested to see if it is usable for that.
 
pick a plan and stick to it...lol. Also, if the engine is at .030 over and you're going racing, I would find another block to build into a stroked engine. Or you can tear down the 360 and have it sonic tested to see if it is usable for that.
I haven,t confirmed the stroker kit yet,still trying to find out if I can run the Eddy heads with a new cam,new headers,new carb and chaange out the stall convertor.I,m looking to find out if this bottomend will be worthy with these add-ons.Thanks for advise and opinions.
 
The OP was asking for more HP to get into the low-mid 11's. Your reference has no bearing what so ever, other than yes suspension is very important. But he asked about more HP...don't you get it?

Petty: Eddy heads are a nice step up and with porting you'll love them! I've got ported Eddy heads on low 10 sec. cars and they are pump gas and street driven. You cannot go wrong with them.

i got the fact that that i can get it done with stock iron heads that you need to accomplish with ported eddies.
iron heads (302's)/pump gas/street driven 11.79:1cr....

*Edit
suspension tweeks is just like free horsepower.
 
300horse, 3300lb car and he should run 12's all day long.

This is not doing what he wants. Ofcourse you can run 11's with stock ported heads...no one said you can't. Why waste $$$ on crack prone stock heads when eddies will do the job and lighten up the front at the same time????
I never said you HAVE to run eddies to make it into the 11's. You are putting words in my mouth....don't do that. It makes you look "not so good" LOL!!

If you have good advice, we're all ears...if not, then maybe yellowbullet is the place for you.
 
Could you tell me alittle more about your engine specs,cam,t.convertor stall.The thought of a supercharger has crossed my mind a few times.I drove quite a few Ford lightnings when I worked in the truck plant(closed now)How was the install,looks fairly simple.Thanks KP.



The entire install takes roughly 6 hours. The people at the SuperCharger Store are very helpful and easy to work with. I am running a stock 4-speed trans and my engine is mostly stock as well.

Hope this hepls,
KP
 
This is not doing what he wants. Ofcourse you can run 11's with stock ported heads...no one said you can't. Why waste $$$ on crack prone stock heads when eddies will do the job and lighten up the front at the same time????
I never said you HAVE to run eddies to make it into the 11's. You are putting words in my mouth....don't do that. It makes you look "not so good" LOL!!

If you have good advice, we're all ears...if not, then maybe yellowbullet is the place for you.

i know that, you said 10's with eddies.
re-read your comments at me. you asked I answered. what the hell is yellowbullet?~ nevermind i just googled it.

now anybody wanna go fast with a streetable smallblock combo:
stroker smallblock
indy intake
indy 360-1 heads
rollercam .600+lift/easy duration
10.5:1+ cr.

easiest 550hp most streetable you'll ever get.


now to the OP:
Yes the crank and rods are fine.
 
O.k,if I run my 360 bottom end(crank .10 over,pistons .30 over are .21 in the hole)does this give me 9.1 compression?If I add the Eddy RPM heads?What rockers,what cam?And what HP gain will I get?I know I,ll have to change my stall from 2500 to 3500-4000.Any suggestions.I,m really contimplating the 426 stroker kit.:read2:

Do you mean .021 in the hole? Are these stock OEM type pistons or something else?

I dyno'd an engine 2 years ago that was kinda interesting: It was in Mark Kirby's "Grape Ape" duster.
He had been running a 340 with ported stock heads, mostly stock parts like rods and crank, and a large roller cam. It had I believe around 12.5:1 compression (obviously not street legal).
Car ran a best of 10.80's and consistent 10.90's but wanted more HP without much trouble and $$$.
So he purchased a stroker bottom end, 4" crank, Ross pistons. Compression was 13:1, kept the cam, heads, intake, carb and headers the same.
Put it on our dyno and it made 550HP. Put it into the car and it ran 10.50's with 1.38 60ft.

So even though the stock heads are weak for that size of engine and rpm he was running, they still made very good power.

You might want to look into the stroker kit, it's easy as pie power. I prefer good cyl. heads, but you do need a decent bottom end.
In this case, you could do the bottom end (stroker kit) and later if you wanted more HP you could bolt on the eddy heads and pickup some power.
That's the way 90% of my customers go....bottom end first then topend when they can afford it.
Hope that helps some....

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360Z..... you may really want to back off. I'm not convinced you know much about OU812 or his abilities and I think you underestimate...lol.
 
1. I know he's a Van Halen fan
2. Don't really care who he is
3. Okie Dokie

That's fine. I actually got that handle from my Uncle who always used to say that...and I do like Van Halen (but not their biggest fan...LOL).

I totally understand where you are coming from, and I know first hand (my duster)that suspension is equally important in a drag car...I just prefer to help a guy out with what HE wants and then if I see problems in his combo I'll speak my mind. Then it's up to him to take the advice and check it out for himself.

I do agree that most guys look at the engine BEFORE they look at suspension/converter because it's more fun and easier. Plus I'm in the engine business, so it's good for me. That's not to say I would lead someone down the wrong road to make a buck...I only advise people when I'm sure about what I'm advising on...or pretty sure anyways.

Sorry to the OP for getting off track on this post. Hopefully you have enough info to make a good decision on where to go from here.
 
Petty, Building the car faster is a balanced project, Anybody can make more HP but getting to the Asphalt is where its at, If you want to stay with your X heads what size valves are there. If this was mine and it wasn,t going on the street its all relative to what you want to invest. Boost its the cheapest way 125shot with stock bottom.
 
That's fine. I actually got that handle from my Uncle who always used to say that...and I do like Van Halen (but not their biggest fan...LOL).

I totally understand where you are coming from, and I know first hand (my duster)that suspension is equally important in a drag car...I just prefer to help a guy out with what HE wants and then if I see problems in his combo I'll speak my mind. Then it's up to him to take the advice and check it out for himself.

I do agree that most guys look at the engine BEFORE they look at suspension/converter because it's more fun and easier. Plus I'm in the engine business, so it's good for me. That's not to say I would lead someone down the wrong road to make a buck...I only advise people when I'm sure about what I'm advising on...or pretty sure anyways.

Sorry to the OP for getting off track on this post. Hopefully you have enough info to make a good decision on where to go from here.
O.K OU812,here,s my plan..I,m gonna pull the motor(pull heads and intake off)I,ll take the bottom end in to a local(respected)engine builder and let him have a look,cause I bought this motor complete and am still unsure of cam specs(PO just said..it,s a 484??)I,ll let the builder know that I want the DONE Eddy heads for this build(which I,ll be getting from Hughes Engines)any machining that the block will need,he,ll be doing.From there he can pick a cam for the build(wether it be solid or hyd.)I kinda like to set it and forget it.LOL!We,ll then choose a carb that fits.Then onto my tranny,I also know a really good tranny man and will have the necessary belts,clutches,kits and stall done through him.While this is being done,I will be getting the chassis ready(mini-tub,spring relocation and frame connectors(I,m making my own from a pattern from the ones that attach to the floor also)I know what I,m getting into money wise and am prepared to have extras pop up(fuel pumps,pans and such)So thanks for all the advise from everyone!Wheww!My typings getting better!LOL I,m also waiting for the Canadian dollar to be at par with U.S dollar!SAVE!
 
Not advocating ANYTHING, here... This is just what ~I~ chose to do; might work for you; might not...

In a nutshell:

360 Magnum, with a STOCK SHORT BLOCK (with a windage tray) plus a Hughesperformance Magnum roller cam with these specs (REALLY mild.) .525" lift with 1.6:1 stock Magnum rockers; 214/218 @ .050" lift; 114 degree lobe center separation... reground, Magnum roller with stock roller lifters.

Almost stock, 360 Magnum cylinder heads; 3-angle valve job; minimal bowl porting; otherwise stock cast iron Magnum heads with Crane roller rockers, 300# open valve springs and thickwall, heavy-duty Hughes pushrods. I have taken it to 6,500 without valve float, but normally shift at 5,800. Idles at 475 rpm, making 12 inches of mercury at that rpm, for the power booster; works well with the OEM, 4-piston caliper, power disk brakes

Professional Products Air Gap-type intake, with a 750 double pumper Holley, modified for blow-thru action, by the Carb Shop in Ontario, CA.

Vortech V-1, S-Trim blower making 10 pounds of boost. 6-rib belt...

MSD Boostmaster ignition module with a boost-referenced, cockpit-adjustable, control; 1, 2, or 3 degrees of retard for every pound of boost. You choose from the driver's seat...

Mopar Performance distributor with the curve it came with, out of the box...

MSD coil. This is an analog ignition system; not multiple spark discharge, and not digital. Standard Autometer tach works with it. It seems up to the task; no "misses."

TTI stepped headers.

Stock 360 Magnum rods, crank, and composition head gaskets.

True 9:1 compression.

It made 445 rear wheel HP on a Dynojet chassis dyno with open exhaust and hi-octane aviation gas. See attached dyno sheet. I guess that is 525 flywheel HP, if you believe the rule of thumb that says rear wheel HP is 85 perccent of flywheel HP with an automatic. 525 X .85 = 446.

I used a Vortech because I found a brand new one, still in the box on ebay for $1,000.00. I made my own mount and idler pulley support because I couldn't find a Vortech-made unit that would fit my '72 A Body.

An easier way, and one that might make even more power, would be to buy the ProCharger complete kit. That takes all the pain out of the install.

The Procharger will move more air than the stock Vortech.

I ran 11.00 at 90 mph unblown; 9.74 at 106, blown, and had NO traction. With bite, it would have gone 9.50, easily. Those are 1,000 foot times.
Eighth mile, it went from 8.55 @ 80 unblown, to 7.49 @ 106mph, blown.

That's a car that weighs 3,550 with me in it...

The upside is, all those stock parts save a lot of money, and it's reasonably fast, with good driveability... drives like a 2-bbl 318.

The downside is, it had to have a whole new half-inch fuel system with a BIG-*** pump, there are hidden expenses everywhere, in a car like this such as an expensive carb hat; the carb was $900.00 (!), it will blow stock head gaskets, I'm afraid, on pump gas (detonation), so it may be a time bomb.

Hasn't happened yet, but I guard against detonation with a SnowPerformance Boost Cooler, a water/methanol injector that serves as a chemical intercooler.

I ended up building two complete fuel systems, filling up with pump gas in the original tank, and av gas in an 8-gallon fuel cell. I can change from one system to the other in less than 5 minutes... but, it was expensive.. 2 fuel pumps and 2 filters... and a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator.

I had my car dyno tested on a chassis dyno before the blower installation; 260 rwhp...

So, it picked up (445 minus 260 rear wheel HP) 185 horsepower at the rear wheels. Cost me probably $3,500 for the parts to go from unblown to blown.; I work for free.... :clock:

This blower is NOISY at an idle, but strangely, quiets down to the point that you really have to listen for it to hear it, just above an idle, and beyond.

I made a spare blower-mounting plate when I built the original one. Anyone wants it, it fits the Vortech V-1, S-Trim. $100.00, you pay the shipping. Might fit other Vortech blowers, too...

I had always wanted a supercharged car, and never had had one.

This one makes me laugh out loud when I stand on it.... LOL! Had cars before that would make me rin; this is the first one I ewver owned that made me lough out loud!!! That will last until the head gaskets give up.... LOL!

Lots of ways to skin a cat; this is just one of them.

Hope this helps...:read2:

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Thanks for the advise Bill,that,s quite the impreessive jump in HP.Also your right on all the hidden expenses,they sure add up.I,ve been waiting for our Can. dollar to match the U.S dollar(trying to save on shipping parts).I had seen some new in the box Eddy RPM heads for sale on here and guess I had missed them?Anyway a local member PM,d me with a pair of the RPM,s still in the box(Thanks again JD340)we worked a deal and I went and bought them lastnight.:cheers:These heads will be the starting point of my build,now if I can sell my snowmobile it would help get my stroker kit faster!Thanks again Bill.

P.S Eddy RPM aluminum heads.part #60779 list for $715 each@Summit

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RE: "Thanks for the advise Bill,that,s quite the impreessive jump in HP."

Wel, now I realize I forgot to include these facts, along with the other information:

At the ame time I went from normally-aspirated to forced induction, I also replaced the early 340 exhaust manifolds I had been running with TTI headers.

I also replaced the HOT WATER-HEATED M-P 4bbl intake manifold with that Chinese Air Gap ripoff...

Those two items were probably worth maybe 30 HP...

Congrats on your new Eddy heads; I could afford a pair if I hadn't spent all my money on drivertain component upgrades...
The heads will have to wait, in my case...

You go, guy!!!!:cheers:
 
RE: "Thanks for the advise Bill,that,s quite the impreessive jump in HP."
+++++++++==++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Well, now I realize I forgot to include these other facts, along with that original information:

At the same time I went from normally-aspirated to forced induction, I also replaced the early 340 exhaust manifolds I had been running, with TTI headers.

I also replaced the HOT WATER-HEATED M-P 4bbl intake manifold with that Chinese Air Gap ripoff...

Those two items were probably worth maybe 30 HP... so, it wasn't all blower...

Congrats on your new Eddy heads; I could afford a pair if I hadn't spent all my money on drivertain component upgrades...
The heads will have to wait, in my case...

You go, guy!!!!
..
 
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