You would with the correct style radiator.....however, Northern is a very decent brand, so I think I might do what I could to retain it. I believe once you get a good fan......or two on it, your problem will be solved.

 

If I am interpreting things correctly.

You have a 67 Dodge Dart with a 360.

I know the snout of the 360 aluminum water pump is linger than the cast iron of a 273, but I can not understand where your space went to.

Do you have stock motor mounts and transmission mounts and cross members?

 

I believe it's the 22" wide by "however" tall they are down flow. That's got tanks top and bottom instead of side to side. If you do replace it, I would go with one with two rows of 1.25 o 1.5" tubes as I said before.....but I'm not sure I'd do that quit yet. That is unless you budget allows it and that's what you want.

 

Per northerns web site:

 

When was the last time you drained and refilled the radiator.

Reason I ask is many times after I have refilled my rad I get an air pocket and untill it gets worked out the rad will foam over as you described.

 

I think I would try to deal with "what you have" since the radiator is a decent one. It's possible if you replace it, you could back up.

Some have had good luck I believe with the Ford Taurus dual fan setup. My understanding is they blow like a 20 dollar whore.

 

More than long enough to work out all the air.

If you were to go with a stock type rad you would want to get one like this:


Your 360 is designed to have inlet on the driver's side top and outlet on the pass side bottom.

Realistically your radiator should be fine. And your fan may or may not be sufficient at idle.

Many above have suggested things to look at before spending any more money.

Timing
Water flow
Condition of the radiator.
Coolant level.
Hoses collapsing, your bottom hose is really long so it could be colapsing.
Water pump cavatsting, or missing fins
Water pump pulley to crank pulley ratio
Thermostat opening all the way and the correct temperature.
Rad cap with the correct pressure ( type 16 lbs)
No leaks in the system ( holds 16 lbs)

First you need to determine what temperature your engine is running at with a real temp guages of some kind.

What ever you do, do not put a shroud that is flat and close to the rad. It will block air flow at speed, you might be good at idle but then give problems at speed.

 

Here is the dual fanEngine Cooling Fan Assembly Dorman 620-104 for sale online | eBay. Can probably get on Amazon. That’s where I got mine $86

 

Not a good deatailed picture

 

The fan is offset so the motor is to the left. I will measure mine

 

@Dana67Dart shows nearly 5" from the inside of his radiator to the pulley. Do you have the same? Not to the fan, but to the radiator.

Like others, I think if you use a shroud with either an electric or mechanical fan, you should be good.

 

Right. That's 6" at its MAX thickness, which is the back of each fan motor. It's much thinner than that most everywhere else, like right between the motors where you'd put the water pump pulley.

 

Here is something you might could make work.

Derale Cooling Products 16825 Derale High-Output Dual RAD Fan and Shroud Kits | Summit Racing

You'e going to have to do the same as everyone else with modded Mopars and make something work. You're not going to find something to just drop in, especially with a GM style radiator.

 

Sometimes it's like pulling teeth, isn't it?

 

Yeah, I'm gettin to the point I'm just gonna start skimmin right on by.

 

Here’s what I got. Best pictures I could get. It’s really tight getting in there. It’s 4 1/2 thick from end of motor. The picture with the tape measuring from the inside of the engine compartment is to the center of the motor is 27 1/2. If I remember Abodybomber had the duel fans. I will have to look for his old post. God rest his soul.