My HDK install thread.

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Old Man Mopar said:
It looks great! Fire up by the weekend?
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It is possible!!!!!!!!!!! I have been putting off the crap task of painting the inside of the trunk. It is stripped to bare steel and just needs a quick cleaning and then its ready. I have been working 12hr days for nearly 2 months now and try to squeeze in time after work but its been taking its toll on me (fell asleep in lawn chair with beer in my hand in the shop last night) lol
 
I love following this thread....always great pictures and info.

what is the part # or application for those TTis?
 
HemiDenny said:
I love following this thread....always great pictures and info.

what is the part # or application for those TTis?
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They are the 1 3/4 primary tube non step headers for a body. TTI is now making a 2" version that works with the HDK and alterkation.
 
I mis-read one of your earlier posts and thought they were B-body / B/RB headers.

The ones on my Hemi Duster are out of the box B/E body headers......I was building the car before I knew TTi was building specific headers for the aftermarket K frames. They tuck up nice and other than a tighter fitting #1 and # 3 tubes..... are pretty much the same as the specific aftermarket K headers.

Ross (Orangewagon) uses small block / B body headers on his Duster and they look and tuck great. I'm sure someone out there with the aftermarket K has tried or uses the B/RB B body or the aftermarket K header.
 
Damn that looks good! I can sympathize with the extended 12s...has a way of taking the wind out of your sails; I hope you're being compensated ;)
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Idk what you're talking about. It seems like there's more room than a small block. Lol.
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This biggest problem with all this new found space is that i can't help but lay under the car and look up at all that room and think to myself............ I have all this room, I need a bigger engine.
 
well guys i know this doesn't directly pertain to the HDK install but here is last nights progress. I am installing a trans temp. gauge in the car so i needed an inline temp sending unit manifold. I got mine from autometer. the directions say it needs to be on the pressure side of the trans lines and as close to the trans as possible so i ended up putting it against the driver side inner fender. here is the pics.







I used a 45* fitting off the trans and a 90* off the manifold to point the line up against the floor and around the headers. this gave me about 4-5" of clearance all way around.

then i started running my lines back to the coolers.







 
Double trans coolers under the trunk floor? At least that's what I'm making out from the pics.
That should keep her cool; not to mention the increased fluid capacity from that set-up!
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Double trans coolers under the trunk floor? At least that's what I'm making out from the pics.
That should keep her cool; not to mention the increased fluid capacity from that set-up!
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yes that is double coolers under the trunk floor. I drove if for over 1500 mile like that and it seemed to work well. I didn't have a gauge at the time to see what the temps were doing. I know these coolers are designed to be mounted vertically and air passed thru them so that is why i used 2 in the horizontal position. when i get it back up and running i will be able to see what is really going on with temps. if the trans is running hot i already have plans on a solution.
 
I like the lines thru the trans mount/cross member....and the swiss cheese job on the mount (s)
 
ok guys, sorry for the delay but here is the steering shaft istall.

my steering column has been converted to 3/4" DD shaft on the end for quite some time now so there was no need for any machine work. I installed a flaming river steering universal joint from the column to a short chunk of stainless double D shaft. I then installed another universal joint from the steering rack to the double D shaft. the steering rack is 9/16x26 spline.

When ever your using DD steering shaft and universal joints it is critical to drill small indents into the steering shaft so that the set screws have a place to land.

IF YOU SKIP THIS STEP YOUR CAR WILL EXPLODE AND BE CONSUMED WITH FIRE.



 
I just drove it for the first time this weekend. I had the entire car apart front to rear so i only drove it a few miles and was very very gentle with it. i also dont have it aligned yet. I am having a problem getting the brakes bleed 100% also. I installed a new master cylinder and all new front brakes. I now have wilwood 4 piston brakes at all 4 corners. the pedal will pump up but its mushy. I have air in the lines someplace. i have gravity bleed them and had the girlfriend help with the brake pedal as i worked the bleeder screws. still having problems.

[ame]https://youtu.be/b-L0dQMJIaw[/ame]
 
txstang84 said:
Mmmmm sounds good--looks good. Awesome job
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i put a wide band in it when i had it all apart. it was pig rich at idle. i cleaned that up and now i have a mid throttle rich condition but it rev's like a mother f*%ker now. Its in the limiter instantly.
 
younggun2.0 said:
i put a wide band in it when i had it all apart. it was pig rich at idle. i cleaned that up and now i have a mid throttle rich condition but it rev's like a mother f*%ker now. Its in the limiter instantly.
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That's good to hear--all I know is it sounds awesome and I know you can't wait to get it all put together so you can drop the hammer a few times
 
Sounds fantastic! Some calipers have 2 or even 4 bleeder screws. Make sure you hit them all
to get any pockets of air out. Start bleeding at the RR first, then the LR, RF and LF. By the time
you get there you should have a rock hard pedal. Can't wait for a ride, drive and steering report.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I just drove it for the first time this weekend. I had the entire car apart front to rear so i only drove it a few miles and was very very gentle with it. i also dont have it aligned yet. I am having a problem getting the brakes bleed 100% also. I installed a new master cylinder and all new front brakes. I now have wilwood 4 piston brakes at all 4 corners. the pedal will pump up but its mushy. I have air in the lines someplace. i have gravity bleed them and had the girlfriend help with the brake pedal as i worked the bleeder screws. still having problems.

https://youtu.be/b-L0dQMJIaw
Click to expand...

Had somewhat the same problem ended up being adjustment on the pushrod also a friend experienced this with the same basic fix
 
I had a problem bleeding my Wilwoods too. After a suggestion from an old timer, I jacked up the back of the car as high as I could get it (scary high). That did the trick!
 
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