My Progress on a 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100

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Synister

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So I was going to replace the transmission filter and fluid in my 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100 when i noticed the frame in a section was pretty rusted on the drivers side. I am planning on fixing it with a welder but im pretty much a total newbie to welding (i was already planning on welding it anyway there are sections of the floor with holes in them) any tips or information would be greatly appreciated i don't plan on giving up on this car and i will continue to work on it in the meantime. Thanks in advance

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OUCH! I had a similar experience when I climbed under our '95 Jeep GC. That fricken hurts to see such carnage.
 
I'm not sure what they mean by cap either. Maybe it slips over the existing frame to eliminate the need to remove it? My question though is the floor in good shape or should you replace that at the same time since it will need to be plug welded to the floor? Good luck on this, you can do it but first learn how to weld on a bench with scrap.
 
Rust quickly reminds us that these are 55+year old cars and this is to be expected.

My 68 valiant has a similar problem but for me it's the torsion bar cross member. I intend to change it out but life has been preventing good progress. I also didn't notice it at first till I got under the car to do some other maintenance. I also did not blame the seller because the problem started long before either one of us were around.

On my car its very strange, Arizona car and this is the only rust on the whole car.

Chin up and fight the rust.

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Princess Valiant said:
Rust quickly reminds us that these are 55+year old cars and this is to be expected.

My 68 valiant has a similar problem but for me it's the torsion bar cross member. I intend to change it out but life has been preventing good progress. I also didn't notice it at first till I got under the car to do some other maintenance. I also did not blame the seller because the problem started long before either one of us were around.

On my car its very strange, Arizona car and this is the only rust on the whole car.

Chin up and fight the rust.

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Ouch!
 
so I have stripped the interior to get a better look at the holes in the floor and while waiting for parts I was going to change the oil and filter so I went to O'rileys and they recommended 0w-20 but when I checked the forum people have recommended 10w-30 should I stick with what the part store says or just go to the 10w-30 thanks in advance. PS I know i have to get a lead additive to add to the oil.
 
Just a suggestion, if you have that much rust in the floorboards and your frame, I'd be looking in every nook and cranny for more rust. In my experience, a rust spot never travels alone. It brings along all its friends and extended family who can and will hide all over the place.
 
I really don't think that is that bad. 50 year old car that has survived going through hell and back and that's all the rust you got. It was probably like my car with rubber floor mat that was notorious for holding moisture in and rotting floors. .... pretty standard, really

The one piece repop floor pan and some ospho will take care of that or you can get the floor pan halves.

As halfafish mentioned, check everywhere. But it's not really that bad and 8 hundo is doing petty good for a classic that you can hardly buy anymore. These cars are not around every corner anymore so to have one this good is pretty special.
 
Princess Valiant said:
I really don't think that is that bad. 50 year old car that has survived going through hell and back and that's all the rust you got. It was probably like my car with rubber floor mat that was notorious for holding moisture in and rotting floors. .... pretty standard, really

The one piece repop floor pan and some ospho will take care of that or you can get the floor pan halves.

As halfafish mentioned, check everywhere. But it's not really that bad and 8 hundo is doing petty good for a classic that you can hardly buy anymore. These cars are not around every corner anymore so to have one this good is pretty special.
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What kind of motor oil do you use in your engine mine is the 225 my local parts stores want me to use 0w-20 but people in other articles seem to say to use 10w-30
 
Get it all cleaned out, wire wheel or glass blaster , clean, rust mort/convertor on the salvageable and cut out the rest. Some you can home form and Frankenstein it in but its easier to get some new pans for the available areas. Epoxy primer all the salvageable once cleaned n prep'd. spot weld a tab to ground to near every area you weld. You can grind it off later.
 
Okay so I'm back to working on the Plymouth and I've got spark and gas but the engine still isn't starting I'm starting to think the firing order on my sparkplug wires where can I find a diagram of that. I know this engine is a runner we drove it to where it is now and it wasn't misfiring or anything it has sat for a year but I'm pretty sure this should start maybe I'm just a moron and it's something obvious that I'm just not seeing.

TLDR: anyone have a diagram of the firing order for the sparkplug wires

Edit: I changed the wiring based off of this diagram and it seems to be running worse any ideas?

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so I went back over with the diagram and re-gapped the sparkplugs to make sure that they were correct and re did the wiring I recorded me turning it over to see if you guys might be able to tell what is going on by hearing it.
 
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