New Small Block Stroker Engine Noise

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crackedback said:
That sounds great. I love the shot with the garage half open. Like a wild animal looking out from a nest/den waiting to pounce!
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LOL, the wind chill was around 10 degrees or so outside that day and we were trying not to freeze.
 
Did this solve the problem??I know you were trying some other adjusting,just wondering if you found your problem?
 
I have not started it up yet. I need to adjust the valves 3/4 turn pre load. I am going to clearance the rocker hold down stud some to let the oil flow a little better. Also need to open the secondaries to let a little air in and close the primaries some. I want to try and run around 20 degrees initial timing and about 32 total so I am going to take some timing out of the distributor. I still have to put the starter in, tighten headers, put steering linkage back on, and connect exhaust etc. After all that is done I'll fire it up again, play with the idle mixture screws some, and take another video.

Probably be a couple days, need to make sure things are done right.
 
Good deal! Better an exhaust leak than something mechanically major. My RC headers leak under power and at first I thought it was detonation. I'm going to try Percy's Seal-for-Good gaskets and see this will solve the problem, otherwise welding may be my only recourse.
 
340sFastback said:
I have not started it up yet. I need to adjust the valves 3/4 turn pre load. I am going to clearance the rocker hold down stud some to let the oil flow a little better. Also need to open the secondaries to let a little air in and close the primaries some. I want to try and run around 20 degrees initial timing and about 32 total so I am going to take some timing out of the distributor. I still have to put the starter in, tighten headers, put steering linkage back on, and connect exhaust etc. After all that is done I'll fire it up again, play with the idle mixture screws some, and take another video.

Probably be a couple days, need to make sure things are done right.
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On the dyno, my 340 made its best power at 38* total advance. That's a lot, sure, but you might find that it'll run better with more advance than 32*

Just a thought.
 
A 4" stroke small block with closed chamber heads is a lot different then a smaller stroke engine with open chamber heads. I think the max total timing that my engine should have is 35. So I'll start out a few degrees less then that and then experiment from there.

I ran 38 degrees total on my stock '69 340 with open chamber heads and it ran strong.
 
I do agree that closed chambered heads do seem to require less timing (from everything I've read) and I haven't had any experience with 4" strokers yet but I was thinking about this the other day. Since the piston speed is faster on the 4" stroke compared to the shorter stroke 340 or 360 wouldn't it need more timing advance because the piston's going faster but the flame front builds at the same rate? Given the same head design of course. I haven't been able to actually find any dyno reports or anything nailed down saying how much timing you need for a stroker so I'm just taking a guess saying this. Can anybody add to this thought. Good or bad.

BTW: Hope you don't mind me bringing this question up 340s since it's not really related to your original post. If you think it's better to start a new thread just let me know.
 
I think you will find 32-33* total is the max you will want to run for a 4" stroker with closed chamber heads.
I for one do not believe the noise in your video is all exhaust - hope I'm wrong.
I'm running the magnum heads with 1.6 chevy rockers - the noise from the valve train is much the same as yours - I refer to it as the "sewing machine" affect - I'm sure you are old enough to understand.
 
388dart said:
I think you will find 32-33* total is the max you will want to run for a 4" stroker with closed chamber heads.
I for one do not believe the noise in your video is all exhaust - hope I'm wrong.
I'm running the magnum heads with 1.6 chevy rockers - the noise from the valve train is much the same as yours - I refer to it as the "sewing machine" affect - I'm sure you are old enough to understand.
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My headers were vibrating excessively (probably due to over rich condition and not enough initial timing for this set up) and the oil filter was about 1/32" away from the headers. I think the headers vibrating against the oil filter was causing noise. Plus I had to loosen the header to get the filter off. I have since put a 90 degree oil filter adapter on the engine.

I'll post another video up when I get it running again.

And I agree, the strokers don't like much timing. I don't understand the theory behind it but there is a pretty good consensus with regard to stroker total timing.
 
mullinax95 said:
I don't either that is valvetrain noise for sure. After he turns those adjusters in somemore it will go away.
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I agree. I think its more then exhaust. That is why I need to spend some time looking things over, readjusting the valves, etc.
 
Update, I did the following things:

1) Had header bead thickened and new header gaskets.
2) Adjusted pre load to 3/4 turn.
3) Put on 90 degree oil adapter to move filter away from headers.
4) Clearanced rocker hold down stud to increase oil flow to rocker shaft.
5) Checked torque on rocker hold downs (none were loose).

Engine is a lot quieter but its still tapping, just not as loud. When I called Crane they said I should run .060" pre load which doesn't sound right to me but that is what they say.

Should I try 1 full turn pre load and see if it gets quieter? That should put me around .040" pre load which is still within specs.
 
If it's still making noise it's worth a shot but I'd go more than 1 turn since that's only .010" more than what it is now and they say to run .060". Since Crane designed it they should know it best so why not do what try say.
 
Turn in till it stops tapping! See below!




19DART66 said:
The last time I ran a hydraulic roller I went though the samething The cure was 1 to 1 1/2 turns of preload witch is .042 to .060 preload with a 3/8 24 thread adjuster. Chrysler had the same problem with there first roller motors in the late 80s. They recalled the 318 and put longer pushrods in them. The only other thing I can think of is if your lifter and pushrod have the holes for oiling through the pushrod you could be bleeding off to much oil pressure to the top end.
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I am thinking of going with 1 1/4 turn which would be about .050". I don't think the headers are leaking.
 
I adjusted the valves with 1 1/4 turn which should be about .050" pre load. Noise sounds the same as when I had 3/4 turn. I am starting to think its not the valve train. The noise is louder under the car, on the passenger's side, around the oil filter. Maybe it is something with the torque converter? I know it sounded the same with the torque converter cover off and I know nothing was hitting the cover? Could it be a defective header where all 4 tubes meet (not likely)? Pulling one plug at a time while running did not change the sound which indicates its not exhaust. I spun the engine around with a breaker bar dozens of times prior to dropping it in and I never heard anything hitting. I am using a 5/8 heater hose, one end to my ear, moving the other end around the engine, can't pin point where the noise is coming from? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
Flex plate cracked??Could be a possability??I believe you,ve covered basically everything,could be something bypassed?2 cents..
 
Have you tried running the motor with the valve covers off? I think that would help isolate the noise better. When I had a chevy motors years ago I adjusted the valves with it running. I've ran my mopar without valve covers before and oil didn't go everywhere so it can be done. You might have a little bit of both going on also. Can't really help much without being there. lol
 
The trans, converter, flex plate, flex plate bolts, and torque converter cover were run with my old 340 which was just pulled and it was quiet?

Engine noise does not change when you drop it in gear, just slows down with the RPMs.
 
I had a problem with mine making a noise at first that sounded like a lifter tick. It ended up being one of the header tubes tapping against the engine block to tranny bracket on the pass. side. I had to grind a little off the bracket for clearance then it stopped.

Also had another car that had a bad rear alternator bearing making a noise like all the lifters were clicking on that side. That was an easy one to figure out. As soon as I pulled the belt off it stopped.
 
I doubt that's the alternator. You could tell the one I had that was bad was coming from the alternator. When your on top it does sound like lifters but underneath it sound pretty much the same and I've never heard lifters do that??? Are you positive you got all the header leaks stopped up?
 
Damn that's loud!

Like I have asked above one time... Have you ran the motor without the valve covers? If it is the lifters/ rockers you will know. I don't think the lifters are pumping up.


Didn't you use a adjusting push rod to find out the length pushrods you need? I believe I would recheck it and compare measurements.

Have you tightened the header bolts up after you have ran the motor? I had to tighten mine about 3 times before they were totally leak free. Mine never sounded like that however but I have stock heads with TTI headers.
 
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